Alright, I have some car audio installation experience, so I am not completely in the dark. I have installed a few single amp dual sub systems, and numerous head units. Just to let my minimal experience be known.
I have a 2007 mazda 3, and I am looking to do some upgrading. I am keeping the factory head unit, because I like the LED's and the look, whereas the mount units and such for the car look quite bland. I have never installed an amp using LOC's (of whatever they are called) but I will do some more searching on that, and if I can't find it ask my question in a different post.
Here is my question. I want to install a 200 X 2/4 (not sure quite yet either dual or quad channel) to power some upgraded door speakers (probably pioneer 4 ways), and probably a 500 X 2 for the subs. I am getting two JL W3 10" subs from a friend (they work good, and I do know how to wire them in the box for ohms.) My question is with these two amps, can I daisy chain them for power, or do I need to do separate power wires, possibly with a capacitor? I am not trying to be the loudest thing on the block, just something to have some nice volume, and the ability to pack a decent punch when necessary.
Oh, I also have a baby, who occasionally rides in the car. Would it hurt anything if I installed a switch on the power wire to cut them off easily when she is in the car? Or would I need to find another way to shut them off when she is riding?
Replies (7)
zanilth on 07/6/2007 21:38:16
Well, after doing some searching, I found the answer to the daisy chaning quesiton. It would probably be easier to use a distributer block...That solves that issue lol.
swez on 07/6/2007 23:06:32
Right, no daisy chain deal here. You need a #4 power line and D-block to feed each amp.
Also, if you can swing it budget wise, consider a good set of Component Speakers for the front stage. I have not heard a decent set of triaxial/quadaxial that did not have major compromizes alsong with them. (Cheap crossovers and inferior mid/high elements)
As for shutting off the sub amp when "Baby is on Board", you can wire a separate remote turn on switch at the dash that cuts remote power to the sub amp when you don't want it. That would probably be a tap off the ACC/IGN line for your Stock HU.
Yes, you will need LOC's if you elect to keep the stock HU. This converts speaker level signals from the speaker s to RCA line levels that are compatible for the amp(s) used.
Tech Tip: This car is likely to have a modest electrical package under the hood. (75-85 amp ALT, 500 CCA BAT) This limits power amp options to a degree for the subs especially. A typical 500 Wrms sub amp can draw close to 50A's of power all by itself when pushed hard. If you wish to avoid costly electrical upgrades and possibly void your warranty rights on this new car, think it through carefully.
Swez
zanilth on 07/7/2007 17:46:08
So speaking budget wise, any ideas for hooking things up? Subs aren't a necessity, just a luxury in all reality. I listen to mainly rock anyway, and when listening to linkin park and stuff like that, heavy bass really isn't the biggest concern. So getting some good component speakers with an amp to push them would probably be a better idea?
BTW, my budget is (hopefully) around 200 or so for an amp and component speakers, if I decide to leave off the sub. Any suggestions?
swez on 07/7/2007 21:33:26
If it were me, I'd look at a solid 4 channel amp and a pair of good quality Comps for the front stage here. The rear stage speakers can be upgraded later so that you'll have some power avaialble for them and/or a powered sub at a later time.
This car comes stock with 6x8" ovals in front and rear. The Premium package has a Bose amped system. I have had very good experience and luck installing these Comps:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QnpoQEpx1F9/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52200&I=1086810CS
For the rear speakers, a solid upgrade would be:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QnpoQEpx1F9/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52200&I=1086812CF
As for a solid amp, figure something in the 75-100 x 4 watts RMS/ch will do very well for these speakers. Stick to a well known brand, but shop for best prices you can manage.
FYI: Don't skimp on the speakers now or you may wind up replacing them later. Save your pennies until you can afford them. A little careful shipping can bring the price down here as well. The Pioneers noted earlier may be the right price, but in past experience they won't cut it if you really like quality sound in your ride.
Comments?
Swez
zanilth on 07/8/2007 02:45:19
Thanks for the advice. Something I have noticed (in a discussion or two on here as well) was people having differences of opinion whether round speakers such as 6.5" have a better quality and sound than oval. Is there any relevant truth to this? I read mostly opinions, but no stated fact or anything of the sorts. I don't mind having to fabricate mounting brackets for the speakers, so thats not an issue.
swez on 07/8/2007 11:59:31
Rounds are probably a bit more accurate in the lower MB region (60-300 Hz.) of sound due to the shape of the cone being equal.
However, in the brand mentioned above, I was very impressed with the Infinity 6x8" Comps ability to stay very accurate, even at 75 watts of power and some good SQL coming out too. That has a lot to do with cone materials used and a very well engineered suspension/motor system.
If you want to use rounds up front, you will find it easy to fit 5.25" rounds w/o much difficulty. I have not tried to mount 6.5" rounds in a 6x8" factory openings.
The only objective way to verify performance of either format would be to use a Real Time Audio Analyzer, a calibrated mike and Pink Noise tones. Few have access to such expensive tools.
A more practical test is done by ear. If it sounds good to the buyer, go for it. That means demo various speakers and use music one is very familiar with, as the source. The hard part is keeping the apparent volume at the same levels for each speaker demo'd. Most people would automatically pick the loudest speaker and call it good enough. That's very subjective, but "best" is in the ears of the listener. In other words, it's a coin toss.
Swez
SQLThump on 07/8/2007 13:45:10
I have 6.5 in my rear deck, which is cut out for 6x9. Just a little modification of the mounting system, and they fit up there fine.
I personally will always reccomend anything Infinity. I think they sound great, and have above average reliability my personall expeirence
I have a 2007 mazda 3, and I am looking to do some upgrading. I am keeping the factory head unit, because I like the LED's and the look, whereas the mount units and such for the car look quite bland. I have never installed an amp using LOC's (of whatever they are called) but I will do some more searching on that, and if I can't find it ask my question in a different post.
Here is my question. I want to install a 200 X 2/4 (not sure quite yet either dual or quad channel) to power some upgraded door speakers (probably pioneer 4 ways), and probably a 500 X 2 for the subs. I am getting two JL W3 10" subs from a friend (they work good, and I do know how to wire them in the box for ohms.) My question is with these two amps, can I daisy chain them for power, or do I need to do separate power wires, possibly with a capacitor? I am not trying to be the loudest thing on the block, just something to have some nice volume, and the ability to pack a decent punch when necessary.
Oh, I also have a baby, who occasionally rides in the car. Would it hurt anything if I installed a switch on the power wire to cut them off easily when she is in the car? Or would I need to find another way to shut them off when she is riding?
Replies (7)
zanilth on 07/6/2007 21:38:16
Well, after doing some searching, I found the answer to the daisy chaning quesiton. It would probably be easier to use a distributer block...That solves that issue lol.
swez on 07/6/2007 23:06:32
Right, no daisy chain deal here. You need a #4 power line and D-block to feed each amp.
Also, if you can swing it budget wise, consider a good set of Component Speakers for the front stage. I have not heard a decent set of triaxial/quadaxial that did not have major compromizes alsong with them. (Cheap crossovers and inferior mid/high elements)
As for shutting off the sub amp when "Baby is on Board", you can wire a separate remote turn on switch at the dash that cuts remote power to the sub amp when you don't want it. That would probably be a tap off the ACC/IGN line for your Stock HU.
Yes, you will need LOC's if you elect to keep the stock HU. This converts speaker level signals from the speaker s to RCA line levels that are compatible for the amp(s) used.
Tech Tip: This car is likely to have a modest electrical package under the hood. (75-85 amp ALT, 500 CCA BAT) This limits power amp options to a degree for the subs especially. A typical 500 Wrms sub amp can draw close to 50A's of power all by itself when pushed hard. If you wish to avoid costly electrical upgrades and possibly void your warranty rights on this new car, think it through carefully.
Swez
zanilth on 07/7/2007 17:46:08
So speaking budget wise, any ideas for hooking things up? Subs aren't a necessity, just a luxury in all reality. I listen to mainly rock anyway, and when listening to linkin park and stuff like that, heavy bass really isn't the biggest concern. So getting some good component speakers with an amp to push them would probably be a better idea?
BTW, my budget is (hopefully) around 200 or so for an amp and component speakers, if I decide to leave off the sub. Any suggestions?
swez on 07/7/2007 21:33:26
If it were me, I'd look at a solid 4 channel amp and a pair of good quality Comps for the front stage here. The rear stage speakers can be upgraded later so that you'll have some power avaialble for them and/or a powered sub at a later time.
This car comes stock with 6x8" ovals in front and rear. The Premium package has a Bose amped system. I have had very good experience and luck installing these Comps:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QnpoQEpx1F9/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52200&I=1086810CS
For the rear speakers, a solid upgrade would be:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-QnpoQEpx1F9/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=52200&I=1086812CF
As for a solid amp, figure something in the 75-100 x 4 watts RMS/ch will do very well for these speakers. Stick to a well known brand, but shop for best prices you can manage.
FYI: Don't skimp on the speakers now or you may wind up replacing them later. Save your pennies until you can afford them. A little careful shipping can bring the price down here as well. The Pioneers noted earlier may be the right price, but in past experience they won't cut it if you really like quality sound in your ride.
Comments?
Swez
zanilth on 07/8/2007 02:45:19
Thanks for the advice. Something I have noticed (in a discussion or two on here as well) was people having differences of opinion whether round speakers such as 6.5" have a better quality and sound than oval. Is there any relevant truth to this? I read mostly opinions, but no stated fact or anything of the sorts. I don't mind having to fabricate mounting brackets for the speakers, so thats not an issue.
swez on 07/8/2007 11:59:31
Rounds are probably a bit more accurate in the lower MB region (60-300 Hz.) of sound due to the shape of the cone being equal.
However, in the brand mentioned above, I was very impressed with the Infinity 6x8" Comps ability to stay very accurate, even at 75 watts of power and some good SQL coming out too. That has a lot to do with cone materials used and a very well engineered suspension/motor system.
If you want to use rounds up front, you will find it easy to fit 5.25" rounds w/o much difficulty. I have not tried to mount 6.5" rounds in a 6x8" factory openings.
The only objective way to verify performance of either format would be to use a Real Time Audio Analyzer, a calibrated mike and Pink Noise tones. Few have access to such expensive tools.
A more practical test is done by ear. If it sounds good to the buyer, go for it. That means demo various speakers and use music one is very familiar with, as the source. The hard part is keeping the apparent volume at the same levels for each speaker demo'd. Most people would automatically pick the loudest speaker and call it good enough. That's very subjective, but "best" is in the ears of the listener. In other words, it's a coin toss.
Swez
SQLThump on 07/8/2007 13:45:10
I have 6.5 in my rear deck, which is cut out for 6x9. Just a little modification of the mounting system, and they fit up there fine.
I personally will always reccomend anything Infinity. I think they sound great, and have above average reliability my personall expeirence
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
