New to the game

by Apophis
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19/m/CA- I am from the SF bay area. And if you hadnt noticed, we like our music loud here. I am driving a 2000 Honda Accord 4 door 4cyl. After hanging out with so many of my friends who have slump in the trunk, i have found out a few things... dont skimp on the important stuff and that i love the feeling of those deep bass notes in my chest. I recently decided that i would invest in a system of my own. But i want to do it right the first time. Iv done some research online and through experienced friends. And this is the set up i was going for... Kenwood KAC-9013 1800watt max. 900rms@2 ohms, 2 12'' kicker soloberic L7s, with a pioneer audio DEH-P7700mp Car stereo. i calculated it all up, and the whole thing is going to run me like $8-900, which is fine, i dont want to lowball myself, afterall, this is for myself. my question is is this much power going to need any extra items like a capacitor and or an extra battery? Any comments would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Apophis


Replies (6)
Ender2 on 07/5/2007 03:39:33
I love young guns like you that are new to the game. Sounds like you've really done some nice homework here, or at the very least have hacked a hew model numbers out of your friends for what they think is good. ;) Lets go over a few things here.

1.)You're aware that your car has a battery, you may or may not be aware that your car has a device called an "alternator" this is the device that charges your batter. Often, when looking at high power systems, this is one of the best things we can replace. The faster it can recharge the battery, the more power the battery has to give out at any one period of time. NOTE: There are a few other things we can do as well to help more power flow through your car which we may talk about later.

2.)You want to know if there's anything you might need to install/have done with your prescribed setup? Lets see here; your car's alternator will put out around 80 amps. Your car's electrical appliances (lights, air conditioning) will consume around 30 amps. That will leave your car around 50 amps to play with (this is cutting it very close, and you will notice that if your sound system does, in fact, consume 50 amps, at max power you will see your other electrical appliances noticeably lose power aka headlight dimming)

Your amplifier returned 0 results at

http://www.kenwoodusa.com/support/simple.aspx?men=2&M2=69

which means your numbers are probably off somewhere. But, I can tell you that an amp that produces around 900wRMS, or 450w per channel is probably going to push a good 50 amps of current (Swez can probably tell you exactly how many amps it will require)

3.) Those L7's are pretty popular these days I believe, but once again, unless I'm mistaken Dual 4 Ohm Voice coils can only be wired in Parrallel for a net 1 ohm load, or Series for a net 8 Ohm load, which rules out the 2 ohm load option,

A few side notes:

Go ahead and bank on running a 4 gauge wire (that's about the size of your thumb) through the length of the car to supply power to the amplifier, I bring this up because this was probably the biggest challenge I had.

Don't limit yourself to a pure SPL (Sound pressure level aka Heart pounding bass) system. I'm running a SQL (Sound quality mixed with SPL) that has 2 12" eclipses running around 700w and a nice 4 channel (door speaker) setup that sounds Awesome! This would really blow your friends away when they can actually HEAR Yo Gotti in the midst of the heart pounding bass.

Lastly, you mentioned that you don't want to lowball yourself. Definitely don't feel the need to rush; I urge you to ask questions, take your time, and when an experienced hand is needed, definitely seek one out and save yourself some heartache and possibly some cash.

Are you thinking of doing this install yourself? Also, please verify which amp you were considering getting? Also, if you don't want to be persuaded with your friends advice and want to reach out for other suggestions, give us a rough description of what one of your friends is using that you really like the way it sounds, then we can point you to similarities that could be beneficial to you in particular.

Hope to hear from you soon.

Ender
Apprentice to Swez





Victor on 07/5/2007 03:50:00
DADDY DAVE.....GRIN


Ender2 on 07/5/2007 09:55:13
Hehe, maybe he took the day off? =)

swez on 07/5/2007 10:58:47
As Ender mentioned, having adequate power in the cars' electrical system is mission critical to a strong bass system. Feeding the beast in the trunk is all about having adequate power for our amplifiers.

As for said amp, it's the Kenwood KAC-9103D. This amp can produce 900 Wrms @ 1 & 2 ohm loads. It will draw a tad over 55 amperes of current at full power. This will create a notable drain on the Honda's electrical system in general and a very hard drain at idle speeds where the ALT is only delivering about 50% of it's full output capacity. If this is the amp desired, plan on upgrading the stock ALT/BAT and some wiring under the hood as well. ($450.00 or so here)

As for subs, a single 12" Solo-baric L7 series will match well to this amp. Use the 4+4 DVC version and a box scaled to fit your car. For deepest bass, use the vented enclosure design.

http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/206/2066S10L7.PDF

If you really want to drive 2 subs, each sub needs its own amp, a huge enclosure system and considerable power upgrades.

Swez

kirchatndftbl on 07/5/2007 17:03:52
one L7 in an accord should do its damage

swez on 07/5/2007 20:59:15
Oh yeah... especially if the amplifer is well fed and the enclosure is well fitted to the car and sub recommendations.

Swez



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