Yes I have a crap Jensen deck, and 2 10" JL subs. they are all connected properly, but for some reason, when i listen to really deep bass songs, my car shuts down and it says the battery reads dead. I asked around and i have 2 choices apparently... Get a new, bigger altinator, or get a stiffening capacitor. Are either of these gonna solve my problem?
Replies (10)
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 07/3/2007 20:46:38
DO NOT GET A CAP! A capacitor will fix minor voltage drop issues, and headlight dimming, but will not fix the problem.
A new, bigger alternator, and a nice gel cell battery will fix this problem. Your battery is toast, and your alt is almost, if not already there. The alternator is the #1 fix here. I have been down this path many times, and anything done before it will be a temporary solution.
You will also need a new battery. If this has happened many times, ending with you calling up the homeboy for a jumpstart, your battery has more than likely one or more dead cells, and more than likely, is just worn from age.
What are the model # of your deck, amp, and subs. We need to know this so as to establish current draw needs of the new alternator you will need.
swez on 07/3/2007 20:53:07
Have your electrical system tested at a good autoparts shop. They have diagnostic tools that can test the health of your ALT and BAT charging system. Most of the time, they can do this in a repair bay or out in the parking lot as well.
A typical car battery will last about 4-6 years under normal driving conditions. After that, the battery is usually ready for replacement as the plates collect oxides and this kills the battery's ability to hold a good charge.
FYI: Avoid using the car battery only to power an audio system for extended periods of time. Depending on the power draw of your amp and health of the battery, it may only take a few minutes of hard bumping to drain the battery to the point where the car won't start w/o a jump. This is VERY HARSH on normal lead-acid batteries. Even a new battery will be impaired after a few deep drains.
This can be helped a lot by using "Deep Cycle" type batteries. They can take many deep discharge cycles and not be harmed. (Typ # of deep discharges for Optima Yellow Tops are >300 cycles) A normal lead acid battery can become junk after a few as 4-5 deep discharge cycles.
Swez
Avengerr on 07/5/2007 19:10:24
Yea my deck is a Jensen CD335X, amp: JL 250/1, and subs are 10" JL 10W1... I think anyway, i got them off my friend, they are in a box and they are fairly old lol. But when my car stalls, i can usually start it up fine right after it does. not all the time though, sometimes it takes like 5 tries.
swez on 07/5/2007 19:29:28
This is a pretty modest amp and even a stock electrical system in good health, should support this rig with no major power drops if wired properly and the amp is in good shape.
I believe this car uses the common CS-130 stock ALT system in most GM cars of this vintage and it specs out at 105A's peak, 60A's at idle. This amp should be no trouble for a healthy charging system.
Have your charging system and battery check out before doing anything here. It's free at most AutoZone, Pep Boys and other good autoparts stores. You'll want to know the voltage and current output of this ALT and how healthy the BAT is. If they check out OK, then we look for other problems that may be causing this.
If the check up shows a problem with the ALT or BAT, then we know what to do next.
Swez
Avengerr on 07/5/2007 19:46:54
Well amazingly i had my battery tested a couple weeks ago: it was printed out, and ill just write what it says:
Rating: 780 CCA
Starter Test: 11.29V
Charging System Test: No Load:14.16V
Loads: 14.19V
Battery Is marginal and has 48-54 months of life in my region. (THINK)
swez on 07/5/2007 20:40:43
If you live in a colder climate and the battery has seen ~4 winters or more already, it's likely the BAT is growing weaker now.
Since the engine does start after the car shuts down, this tells me the reserve power (CCA) in the BAT is good enough to crank the starter over. That's a positive sign your BAT is still within range.
However, the ALT may still have trouble keeping the voltage levels up where they need to be. Most cars will shut down when the computer senses below 10.5 volts and the dash meter dips and stays below that point.
This is often caused by a dying voltage regulator, a failed set of diodes in the rectifier bridge or some other component inside the ALT. This is not a very expensive ALT either. The last time I put a new one in, it only cost $70.00 as a refurb. A new one might be about $40.00 more.
FYI: Do you note any belt squeel or chirping noises when the AC clutch engages or when you turn the steering wheel from full right to left stops? (At idle speeds especially) This is often a good indication that the serpintine belt is slipping and may need to be replaced or the belt tensioner pully has a weak spring. If this is noted, that can cause a good ALT to misbehave too.
Comments?
Swez
Avengerr on 07/6/2007 18:58:47
No i have not noticed any noises, and my climate can get as low as -22F. However, once and 1 time only when it died, ALL the gauge needles, the spedometer, and RPM meter just went wacky going up and down repetedly, then they all went back to normal and a few seconds later the car shut down.
swez on 07/6/2007 22:37:02
Hum, very interesting comment there.
That leads me to think the ECM computer had a glitch, (Very low voltage) went back to default mode and searched all presets and then normalized again. (Sort of like an auto scan feature that searches for default settings and restores)
One trick might be worth a try:
1. Disconnect the Neg BAT terminal and wait 1 minute
2. Reconnect Bat terminal
This clears all faults stored in the computers ECM/BCM logs and resets to original factory defaults. It may erase the HU presets and time clock as well, but just note your presets and restore them manually after the procedure. It may help, but it may not. It depends on the faults and if they come back again or not.
Does your Check Engine light ever come on before the car shuts off?
Swez
Avengerr on 07/8/2007 21:47:39
Um... no but the oil light is pretty much permanently on, but i think thats unrelated maybe?
swez on 07/8/2007 22:12:12
The oil light is probably a reminder to change oil at 3000 miles or 90 days. There is often a reset/clear feature button by the passenger side knee bolster. You may have to grab the owners manual from your car to figure out how to reset that.
You can manually clear that lamp too. Same procedure as noted earlier...
1. Disconnect the Neg BAT terminal and wait 1 minute
2. Reconnect Bat terminal
Does your gage package contain oil pressure and voltage gages? If yes, your charging system is doing good if the voltage gage reads above 13.5 volts. If the gage drops below ~10.5 volts, your engine will shut off. Somethings wrong and needs diagnostics check up to find out what the problem is.
The oil pressure gage should read about 40 psi at idle and go up with engine RPM. If the oil pressure gage is very low, that could be a warning that the oil pump is not doing so well or the oil presssure gage sending unit is faulty.
Swez
Replies (10)
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 07/3/2007 20:46:38
DO NOT GET A CAP! A capacitor will fix minor voltage drop issues, and headlight dimming, but will not fix the problem.
A new, bigger alternator, and a nice gel cell battery will fix this problem. Your battery is toast, and your alt is almost, if not already there. The alternator is the #1 fix here. I have been down this path many times, and anything done before it will be a temporary solution.
You will also need a new battery. If this has happened many times, ending with you calling up the homeboy for a jumpstart, your battery has more than likely one or more dead cells, and more than likely, is just worn from age.
What are the model # of your deck, amp, and subs. We need to know this so as to establish current draw needs of the new alternator you will need.
swez on 07/3/2007 20:53:07
Have your electrical system tested at a good autoparts shop. They have diagnostic tools that can test the health of your ALT and BAT charging system. Most of the time, they can do this in a repair bay or out in the parking lot as well.
A typical car battery will last about 4-6 years under normal driving conditions. After that, the battery is usually ready for replacement as the plates collect oxides and this kills the battery's ability to hold a good charge.
FYI: Avoid using the car battery only to power an audio system for extended periods of time. Depending on the power draw of your amp and health of the battery, it may only take a few minutes of hard bumping to drain the battery to the point where the car won't start w/o a jump. This is VERY HARSH on normal lead-acid batteries. Even a new battery will be impaired after a few deep drains.
This can be helped a lot by using "Deep Cycle" type batteries. They can take many deep discharge cycles and not be harmed. (Typ # of deep discharges for Optima Yellow Tops are >300 cycles) A normal lead acid battery can become junk after a few as 4-5 deep discharge cycles.
Swez
Avengerr on 07/5/2007 19:10:24
Yea my deck is a Jensen CD335X, amp: JL 250/1, and subs are 10" JL 10W1... I think anyway, i got them off my friend, they are in a box and they are fairly old lol. But when my car stalls, i can usually start it up fine right after it does. not all the time though, sometimes it takes like 5 tries.
swez on 07/5/2007 19:29:28
This is a pretty modest amp and even a stock electrical system in good health, should support this rig with no major power drops if wired properly and the amp is in good shape.
I believe this car uses the common CS-130 stock ALT system in most GM cars of this vintage and it specs out at 105A's peak, 60A's at idle. This amp should be no trouble for a healthy charging system.
Have your charging system and battery check out before doing anything here. It's free at most AutoZone, Pep Boys and other good autoparts stores. You'll want to know the voltage and current output of this ALT and how healthy the BAT is. If they check out OK, then we look for other problems that may be causing this.
If the check up shows a problem with the ALT or BAT, then we know what to do next.
Swez
Avengerr on 07/5/2007 19:46:54
Well amazingly i had my battery tested a couple weeks ago: it was printed out, and ill just write what it says:
Rating: 780 CCA
Starter Test: 11.29V
Charging System Test: No Load:14.16V
Loads: 14.19V
Battery Is marginal and has 48-54 months of life in my region. (THINK)
swez on 07/5/2007 20:40:43
If you live in a colder climate and the battery has seen ~4 winters or more already, it's likely the BAT is growing weaker now.
Since the engine does start after the car shuts down, this tells me the reserve power (CCA) in the BAT is good enough to crank the starter over. That's a positive sign your BAT is still within range.
However, the ALT may still have trouble keeping the voltage levels up where they need to be. Most cars will shut down when the computer senses below 10.5 volts and the dash meter dips and stays below that point.
This is often caused by a dying voltage regulator, a failed set of diodes in the rectifier bridge or some other component inside the ALT. This is not a very expensive ALT either. The last time I put a new one in, it only cost $70.00 as a refurb. A new one might be about $40.00 more.
FYI: Do you note any belt squeel or chirping noises when the AC clutch engages or when you turn the steering wheel from full right to left stops? (At idle speeds especially) This is often a good indication that the serpintine belt is slipping and may need to be replaced or the belt tensioner pully has a weak spring. If this is noted, that can cause a good ALT to misbehave too.
Comments?
Swez
Avengerr on 07/6/2007 18:58:47
No i have not noticed any noises, and my climate can get as low as -22F. However, once and 1 time only when it died, ALL the gauge needles, the spedometer, and RPM meter just went wacky going up and down repetedly, then they all went back to normal and a few seconds later the car shut down.
swez on 07/6/2007 22:37:02
Hum, very interesting comment there.
That leads me to think the ECM computer had a glitch, (Very low voltage) went back to default mode and searched all presets and then normalized again. (Sort of like an auto scan feature that searches for default settings and restores)
One trick might be worth a try:
1. Disconnect the Neg BAT terminal and wait 1 minute
2. Reconnect Bat terminal
This clears all faults stored in the computers ECM/BCM logs and resets to original factory defaults. It may erase the HU presets and time clock as well, but just note your presets and restore them manually after the procedure. It may help, but it may not. It depends on the faults and if they come back again or not.
Does your Check Engine light ever come on before the car shuts off?
Swez
Avengerr on 07/8/2007 21:47:39
Um... no but the oil light is pretty much permanently on, but i think thats unrelated maybe?
swez on 07/8/2007 22:12:12
The oil light is probably a reminder to change oil at 3000 miles or 90 days. There is often a reset/clear feature button by the passenger side knee bolster. You may have to grab the owners manual from your car to figure out how to reset that.
You can manually clear that lamp too. Same procedure as noted earlier...
1. Disconnect the Neg BAT terminal and wait 1 minute
2. Reconnect Bat terminal
Does your gage package contain oil pressure and voltage gages? If yes, your charging system is doing good if the voltage gage reads above 13.5 volts. If the gage drops below ~10.5 volts, your engine will shut off. Somethings wrong and needs diagnostics check up to find out what the problem is.
The oil pressure gage should read about 40 psi at idle and go up with engine RPM. If the oil pressure gage is very low, that could be a warning that the oil pump is not doing so well or the oil presssure gage sending unit is faulty.
Swez
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