whats good? I am new here and i am a car audio enthusiast. I have a couple of questions.
how much airspace do you need to push a 400 - 700 watt 12" sub?
Replies (30)
Ender2 on 07/3/2007 14:05:17
Hello there.
This can vary greatly from different subwoofers. But if you need a rough estimate. Anywhere from 1.5ft³ up to 3 or 4ft³.
Furthermore, if you got to a subwoofer specification page, like the one below, the manufacturer will often specify which type of Box (Ported, sealed) is best for their particular woofer and they will often also tell you recommended size of the port as well as the recommended total enclosure volume.
For example: "http://www.tcsounds.com/tc9.htm#diy"
Scroll down to the "recommended enclosure" section and check out the numbers. :) Hope I helped. ^_^
swez on 07/3/2007 22:55:51
That's a very good "generic question" to ask and the answer will vary a good deal, depending on the sub(s) and amp(s) used.
A better question here might be... "I have space for an enclosure that is" about these dimensions. My vehicle is a ________ fill in the blank.
Height = 18" max.
Depth = 16" max.
Width = 30" max.
The amp I have now, or plan to use here is:
Make/model #: Kenwood KAC-8103D
What would be a solid sub selection based on the info noted above? "I desire lots of deep bass and like XYZ music most". Or... "I want my sub system to be very accurate and still have some good thump when desired". Or... "I want to make the the neighbors miserable with sick bass tones that shake the whole car."
With that type of info, we can steer you in the appropriate direction.
Have at it,
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/5/2007 00:43:24
the car is a 98 sonata.don't know the specs of the trunk but i have 2 mtx thunder 400 12" subs running off a 600 watt legacy 2 channel amp which is 2-ohm stable. the sub are 4-ohms but are running in parallel. the car has a pretty good sound inside but i was wonder could it be better with the products i already have. Its my sisters car so i am just tweaking it not trying to buy new stuff. that's why i asked about the airspace
APK-RAISED on 07/5/2007 00:45:43
Also, i love bass you can barely hear but damn sure feel. i listen to hip-hop
swez on 07/5/2007 11:19:18
With this sub/amp pairing mentioned, it would be best to use an amp that is designed to maximize bass performance. Yes, that usually means a Class D Mono amp that is stable at 2 ohm loads. (most are)
Most 2 channel amps are stable at 2 ohms per channel in stereo mode only. However, when bridged MONO, most amps are only stable at 4 ohms. In this case, it would be advised to run the amp in 2 channel mode and one sub per channel. (Doing otherwise is harmful to the amp)
Are these the older MTX Thunder 4000 series subs?
What is the model # of that Legacy amp?
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/15/2007 00:28:35
yes they were but blew them the other night
swez on 07/15/2007 11:29:00
The MTX 4000 series is one of MTX's marginal sub series. They are no frills, average performance and priced a bit high for what one gets.
Now that you have no working subs, what do you want to do next?
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/24/2007 07:57:24
HIFONICS BXI 1606D AMP WITH 4 12" HIFONICS BX12D2
SUBS
APK-RAISED on 07/24/2007 07:58:20
TWO IN A PORTED AND TWO IN A SEALED
Ash on 07/24/2007 21:17:13
That would be hard to control running off the same amp. Not to mention the amount of space taken up. 4 subs would be enough for mind numbing bass, but are you over shooting? Perhaps two good 12's and a powerful mono amp will do the trick.
The Sonata is a medium to small size sedan and would not need much to raise SPL to good level. I would imagine 600rms watts fed to a pair of high excursion (12mm xmax at least) 4 ohm subs in a sealed box would be the way to go. Shoot for a enclosure/sub combo with a F3 rolloff around 50 and you will be deep in the lower bass register with some authority. Anymore than that and you will be looking to upgrade everything else (charging system, front speakers, etc..).
One question though, how is the back of the seat made? Is it quite porous material like open cell foam? Is there any covering that may block sound from entering the cab from tthe trunk? Not familiar with how it is made.
swez on 07/24/2007 23:28:22
The back seats do flip down for long cargo stowage. The trunk is fair, but not large enough space for what you are looking at. (4x12's)
I agree with Ash... you can still get great bass performace from a pair of 12's and a well matched amp that can deliver a solid 1000 watts RMS to a given sub load and not have to spend a large buck on electrical upgrades too.
Think efficiency in sub(s) used and enclosure design. Guys can do a solid 135dB in bass with a single 12" or 15" sub in a well designed enclosure and 800-1000 watts of amping power. Anything larger than this will create a need to upgrade your electrical system and that can easily double your expenses.
Swez
PS Anything that can deliver >125dB of bass SPL will easily outpace your mids/highs w/o amping them too. That's more upgrades as the speakers and HU in the Sonata are only fair at best. I rented one for a few days and liked the car a lot. However, the stereo system in this car was marginal as a stock only system. (Actually... fair to lame due to cheap speakers and low powered HU amps)
APK-RAISED on 07/26/2007 12:48:29
I'M SORRY I GOT SOME MMATS 12" SPEAKERS OFF MY FRIEND FOR 50 BUCKS AND THROUGH THEM IN THERE. I DONE WITH THAT CAR NOW I HAVE MY OWN CAR A 1993 CADILLAC FLEETWOOD BROUGHAM AND THE PLANS FOR THAT IS
-HIFONICS 1606D,1600 RMS AMP
-EITHER THE 1000 WATT 4 CHANNEL CRUNCH OR THE SPL 1600
WATT 4 CHANNEL AMP FOR THE HIGHS AND MID BASS
-4 12" HIFONICS 600 RMS SUBS
-2 6.5 FUSION COMPONENT SETS
-PREMIER-590 HEAD UNIT
I DUNNO HOW I AM GOING TO POWER THIS SO SOME IDEAS PLEASE( AS FAR BATTERIES AND ALTERNATOR.)
SQLThump on 07/26/2007 13:29:19
Ok first idea, STOP YELLING! (all caps is yelling here)
Second idea, Give us the exact model numbers for the upper range amps you wish to use, as opposed to probably way inflated ratings.
Crunch is one of those not soo great brands IMO. If I am not mistaken, SPL is one of those cheapy E-aby brands. You may want to find something more realistically rated, as well as a higher quality brands.
Idea 3. If you are goind to use the HiFonics Brutus as a sub amp, you should reconsider sub choices with that amplifier. 4 600RMS subs would require 2400 RMS of clean amping power to give them proper powering, headroom and good overall performance. Either select some lower rated subs, or more amp power. A defecit od a needed 800 WRMS wound definitely be a hinderence.
If you MUST go with 4 subs, consider something in the 350-400 RMS power range. My Favorites in this catagory would be the Diamond Audio D3, or the Infinity perfect DVQ. Both are very strong performers.
A probably better solution would be to find a PAIR of subs in the range of 700-800 WRMS. This will free up more trunk space, avoid cancellations, probably sound just as good, and be much less complicated in the long run. Usually with car audio, simple=good.
You will need some probably decent charging system upgrades to make all of this work properly without frying your car's electrical system. Al least working with a GM product, finding a custom ALT shoudn't be too hard to find.
What say you man??
swez on 07/26/2007 13:52:13
Please avoid all Caps... this means shouting or extreme emphasis on this board.
This Caddy has a large trunk, but if you use all 4 subs, that may give you only 1 option... up-firing subs toward the trunk lid. This is the worst install method for subs in a sedan. A better option is dual 12's, ported and firing toward the rear bumper.
Are you planning to install new rear speakers in the back as well?
The HiFonics amp is a solid choice and so is the Pioneer DEH-590IB HU. I cannot find much on this HU but it does have a lot of nice features. It seems this HU is marketed mostly outside the USA. (Brazil and such mostly)
These Fusion speakers mentioned, what model number are you considering? One of our guys have used them before and reported very good SPL results as they are very power efficient. If using the 2 ohm version, a small amp will do the job well and save electrical upgrades as well.
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&category_id=13 (Pick the one you are thinking about)
Swez
SQLThump on 07/26/2007 16:03:02
With a trunk like that, 4 subs could be gotten away with without too much problem, especially is you built two seperate boxes.
swez on 07/26/2007 20:09:30
It's not the number of woofers used that makes the difference. It's the design, installation and planning that go into a system that makes all the difference.
Have you ever heard the truism.... "Less is often more"? That applies very well in this scenario. If you want to know why, just ask.
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/26/2007 21:18:11
I truly apologize about yelling didn't know you guys were so sensitive but the fusion components sets are nv-cm65 and i apreciate the opinions of you guys on the for subs but i still want to and am going to use the four subs. Also i do plan on changing the rear deck speaker also to either four 6*9's or just just upgrading the two.
I do plan on down firing the subs (still undecied)
I plan on placing the 6.5 speakers in the doors if anyone was wondering
I also plan on using a capabac
high amp
PZI 175.4
1000W 2 / 3 / 4-Channel A/B Class Amplifier
175W x 4-Ch @ 4-Ohms or
250W x 4-Ch @ 2-Ohms or
500W x 2-Ch @ 4-Ohms Dynamic Music Watts
sub amp
BXi 1606D 1600-Watt x 1 RMS @ 1-Ohm
component set (2)
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&action=view&product_id=309
swez on 07/26/2007 22:43:02
Those were the same Fushion speakers I was thinking about and they are 2 ohm kits and 80 watts RMS/speaker. A huge 4 channel amp is not required to get these speakers up to concert level loudness in a car.
I ask that you look at this amp as an alternate to the Crunch amp mentioned. It's the right power for your Fusion speakers, a very good brand name, reliable and the same price. Crunch is now part of HiFonics/Maxxonics and the lower end of the product line at that.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?
ProductID=18147
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13124
FYI: Want to make clear that there are some very skilled and talented people on this forum. Many of us have spent years in this industry and
know what works and why. We are trying to lead you into knowledge that is greatly lacking. I have been at CK for over 8 years and in Pro Audio for more than 10 years. (Not a rookie, nor a newbie or an audio snob either... just darn good at what I put my mind and time into)
As for the rear speakers, the Fusion FJL-692 would be a very good option for your rear deck speakers. They too are 2 ohm units and are a very good match to the amps and Fusion's NV-CM65 from speakers. This is a solid paring and well priced if one shops hard.
As for the sub part of your plan, the amp choice, (BXi 1606D ) is a good one. This amp is of good quality, robust and has a reputation to match. As for the subs mentioned, the subs are a good choice.
However, in a closed trunk sedan application, we look at the truck as an extension of the subs and enclosure. The main issue is that bass is pretty much trapped in the trunk and not much passes through into the main cabin of a sedan. Yes, we can make thunder in the trunk and this plan will indeed offer that. But how about moving some of that deep bass energy into the main cabin of the car?
The other side of the equation is sound dampening the trunk to reduce and eliminate unwanted rattles and resonances? Have you contimplated a remedy for that eventuality? If not, do some research on sound dampening techniques and products. It will be needed here or all you'll hear is panel rattles at high bass levels.
Think it over my friend. We are trying to guide you and prevent the stepping off a cliff scenario that others have done before you came here. I am trying my best to be patient, point you in a well proven direction and keep you from biting off more than you bargained for. I have done this for thousands of readers in the past and it's free. All you have to do is weigh it all out.
Swez
PS "I also plan on using a capabac" Not sure I understand this one... please explain.
APK-RAISED on 07/27/2007 16:55:01
ok when you say move some of the bass into the cabin what exactly do you mean or suggest. the capabac which i am quite sure is spelled wrong. but it is a item the basically saves the electric system.
SQLThump on 07/27/2007 18:43:53
When referring to moving more bass into the cabin, Swez is probably referring to some soret of venting system to get air from the trunk to the cabin.
Measures like this include:
Folding down/removing seats.
Punching out rear armrest holes. Many luxury vehicles make this real easy by providing a "Ski-Hole" option. Whether it came out of the factory with it or not, this is usually an easy one to make happen.
Soundporting the rear deck. My personal favorite. This creates a vent right in your rear deck, which refelcts off the rear window, and bounces bass energy foward, making it echo, becoming deeper, and sending the energy where it needs to go.
Are you refferring to a capacitor? These are junk, referred to in these here as "Car Audio Bling". Basically, this is suppossed to keep voltage at a steady level, but most sommon car audio usage will drain this so fast, it's pretty much useless. Money spent on a capacitor could be much better invested in an upgraded ALT or a nice gel cell battery.
swez on 07/27/2007 19:24:15
Yes, a vent hole that allows bass to flow into the cabin is what I meant. It can be a drop down seat back, (rear seat back) a large vent cut into the rear deck for your car or some other opening between cabin and the truck.
As for powering your sub amp, you can use a dedicated battery to power only the sub amp. This often requires a Gel Cell type battery in the truck and mounted close to the sub amp. Here, the 2nd battery is charged by the ALT.
A "battery isolation" device will monitor charge in your main and secondary batteryand charge them as needed by selecting which battery needs charging and only charge as needed. This reduces the strain on the main starter battery and provides a solid current buffer storage cell to power the sub amp when large draw peaks are needed.
Got all that?
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/29/2007 02:20:24
http://www.usblaster.com/index.php/9,hid--128,sid--93,sg2id--0,sg3id--0,artId--741
i was referring to a capabat wasn't sure of the spelling but this venting you speak of sounds like a pretty good idea.
APK-RAISED on 07/29/2007 02:22:41
swez that amp you mentioned earlier the link was dead or the producted move could i get it from you
Victor on 07/29/2007 02:31:05
GRIN.... thats a capacitor and a battery combo.. what a way to sell waste...... this sure is an innovation of a marketing guy and not a technical product designer....
swez on 07/30/2007 12:28:14
Agree w/ Victor on the Capabat. It's a neat idea that won't suffice as the BAT section is just too small to hold much usable current in reserve.
One link seems to have been removed. This one works:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13124 (HiFonics 4 channel)
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/30/2007 14:08:51
ok i'll look in to the amp. but does anyone wanna recommend a hu with a 7 band eq and ipod control for around 200 to 300 bucks and some 6*9 with good mid-bass and response or a least a big magnet dont worry bout the price for that
Victor on 07/30/2007 17:05:16
my personal preference would be the
Pioneer Premier 880PRS....
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069882_291159496,00.html
you may have to scout a bit on the internet to get this one around $300..
and for something around $200...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8934_Alpine+CDA-9883.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7974_Blaupunkt+Long+Beach+DVD35.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8787_Clarion+DXZ675USB.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8780_Kenwood+KDC-MP735U.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6618_Panasonic+MXE+CQ-C8403U.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9008_Pioneer+Premier+DEH-P690UB.html
These are about it... for a budget of around $200..... the links are alphabetically placed.... pick any and i am sure you would be more than happy with the performance and upgrade capabilities....
Victor..
Victor on 07/30/2007 17:07:18
JBL and Infinity have come up with 2 ohm version 6x 9" these can extract every bit of juice from ur multichannel amp...
other than these.. if u are looking for clean crisp sound.. morel, rainbow, focal and DLS make some amazing speakers... but at a price too..
Victor...
swez on 07/30/2007 18:07:42
Have to admit the JBL & Infinity Refs or Kappas are hard to beat. Fusion also makes some very interesting and potent speakers as well. Go with 2-ways. (Woofer + tweeter and crossover versions, they sound better for the money)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Kvi8SmpW7Fz/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=52300&avf=N&nvpair=FFDesign%7C%5Brank2%5D2%2Dway
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&category_id=13
Swez
APK-RAISED on 08/20/2007 20:53:29
DOES ANYONE KNOW ABOUT THE MB QUART RWE 354 15' SUBWOOFERS
how much airspace do you need to push a 400 - 700 watt 12" sub?
Replies (30)
Ender2 on 07/3/2007 14:05:17
Hello there.
This can vary greatly from different subwoofers. But if you need a rough estimate. Anywhere from 1.5ft³ up to 3 or 4ft³.
Furthermore, if you got to a subwoofer specification page, like the one below, the manufacturer will often specify which type of Box (Ported, sealed) is best for their particular woofer and they will often also tell you recommended size of the port as well as the recommended total enclosure volume.
For example: "http://www.tcsounds.com/tc9.htm#diy"
Scroll down to the "recommended enclosure" section and check out the numbers. :) Hope I helped. ^_^
swez on 07/3/2007 22:55:51
That's a very good "generic question" to ask and the answer will vary a good deal, depending on the sub(s) and amp(s) used.
A better question here might be... "I have space for an enclosure that is" about these dimensions. My vehicle is a ________ fill in the blank.
Height = 18" max.
Depth = 16" max.
Width = 30" max.
The amp I have now, or plan to use here is:
Make/model #: Kenwood KAC-8103D
What would be a solid sub selection based on the info noted above? "I desire lots of deep bass and like XYZ music most". Or... "I want my sub system to be very accurate and still have some good thump when desired". Or... "I want to make the the neighbors miserable with sick bass tones that shake the whole car."
With that type of info, we can steer you in the appropriate direction.
Have at it,
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/5/2007 00:43:24
the car is a 98 sonata.don't know the specs of the trunk but i have 2 mtx thunder 400 12" subs running off a 600 watt legacy 2 channel amp which is 2-ohm stable. the sub are 4-ohms but are running in parallel. the car has a pretty good sound inside but i was wonder could it be better with the products i already have. Its my sisters car so i am just tweaking it not trying to buy new stuff. that's why i asked about the airspace
APK-RAISED on 07/5/2007 00:45:43
Also, i love bass you can barely hear but damn sure feel. i listen to hip-hop
swez on 07/5/2007 11:19:18
With this sub/amp pairing mentioned, it would be best to use an amp that is designed to maximize bass performance. Yes, that usually means a Class D Mono amp that is stable at 2 ohm loads. (most are)
Most 2 channel amps are stable at 2 ohms per channel in stereo mode only. However, when bridged MONO, most amps are only stable at 4 ohms. In this case, it would be advised to run the amp in 2 channel mode and one sub per channel. (Doing otherwise is harmful to the amp)
Are these the older MTX Thunder 4000 series subs?
What is the model # of that Legacy amp?
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/15/2007 00:28:35
yes they were but blew them the other night
swez on 07/15/2007 11:29:00
The MTX 4000 series is one of MTX's marginal sub series. They are no frills, average performance and priced a bit high for what one gets.
Now that you have no working subs, what do you want to do next?
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/24/2007 07:57:24
HIFONICS BXI 1606D AMP WITH 4 12" HIFONICS BX12D2
SUBS
APK-RAISED on 07/24/2007 07:58:20
TWO IN A PORTED AND TWO IN A SEALED
Ash on 07/24/2007 21:17:13
That would be hard to control running off the same amp. Not to mention the amount of space taken up. 4 subs would be enough for mind numbing bass, but are you over shooting? Perhaps two good 12's and a powerful mono amp will do the trick.
The Sonata is a medium to small size sedan and would not need much to raise SPL to good level. I would imagine 600rms watts fed to a pair of high excursion (12mm xmax at least) 4 ohm subs in a sealed box would be the way to go. Shoot for a enclosure/sub combo with a F3 rolloff around 50 and you will be deep in the lower bass register with some authority. Anymore than that and you will be looking to upgrade everything else (charging system, front speakers, etc..).
One question though, how is the back of the seat made? Is it quite porous material like open cell foam? Is there any covering that may block sound from entering the cab from tthe trunk? Not familiar with how it is made.
swez on 07/24/2007 23:28:22
The back seats do flip down for long cargo stowage. The trunk is fair, but not large enough space for what you are looking at. (4x12's)
I agree with Ash... you can still get great bass performace from a pair of 12's and a well matched amp that can deliver a solid 1000 watts RMS to a given sub load and not have to spend a large buck on electrical upgrades too.
Think efficiency in sub(s) used and enclosure design. Guys can do a solid 135dB in bass with a single 12" or 15" sub in a well designed enclosure and 800-1000 watts of amping power. Anything larger than this will create a need to upgrade your electrical system and that can easily double your expenses.
Swez
PS Anything that can deliver >125dB of bass SPL will easily outpace your mids/highs w/o amping them too. That's more upgrades as the speakers and HU in the Sonata are only fair at best. I rented one for a few days and liked the car a lot. However, the stereo system in this car was marginal as a stock only system. (Actually... fair to lame due to cheap speakers and low powered HU amps)
APK-RAISED on 07/26/2007 12:48:29
I'M SORRY I GOT SOME MMATS 12" SPEAKERS OFF MY FRIEND FOR 50 BUCKS AND THROUGH THEM IN THERE. I DONE WITH THAT CAR NOW I HAVE MY OWN CAR A 1993 CADILLAC FLEETWOOD BROUGHAM AND THE PLANS FOR THAT IS
-HIFONICS 1606D,1600 RMS AMP
-EITHER THE 1000 WATT 4 CHANNEL CRUNCH OR THE SPL 1600
WATT 4 CHANNEL AMP FOR THE HIGHS AND MID BASS
-4 12" HIFONICS 600 RMS SUBS
-2 6.5 FUSION COMPONENT SETS
-PREMIER-590 HEAD UNIT
I DUNNO HOW I AM GOING TO POWER THIS SO SOME IDEAS PLEASE( AS FAR BATTERIES AND ALTERNATOR.)
SQLThump on 07/26/2007 13:29:19
Ok first idea, STOP YELLING! (all caps is yelling here)
Second idea, Give us the exact model numbers for the upper range amps you wish to use, as opposed to probably way inflated ratings.
Crunch is one of those not soo great brands IMO. If I am not mistaken, SPL is one of those cheapy E-aby brands. You may want to find something more realistically rated, as well as a higher quality brands.
Idea 3. If you are goind to use the HiFonics Brutus as a sub amp, you should reconsider sub choices with that amplifier. 4 600RMS subs would require 2400 RMS of clean amping power to give them proper powering, headroom and good overall performance. Either select some lower rated subs, or more amp power. A defecit od a needed 800 WRMS wound definitely be a hinderence.
If you MUST go with 4 subs, consider something in the 350-400 RMS power range. My Favorites in this catagory would be the Diamond Audio D3, or the Infinity perfect DVQ. Both are very strong performers.
A probably better solution would be to find a PAIR of subs in the range of 700-800 WRMS. This will free up more trunk space, avoid cancellations, probably sound just as good, and be much less complicated in the long run. Usually with car audio, simple=good.
You will need some probably decent charging system upgrades to make all of this work properly without frying your car's electrical system. Al least working with a GM product, finding a custom ALT shoudn't be too hard to find.
What say you man??
swez on 07/26/2007 13:52:13
Please avoid all Caps... this means shouting or extreme emphasis on this board.
This Caddy has a large trunk, but if you use all 4 subs, that may give you only 1 option... up-firing subs toward the trunk lid. This is the worst install method for subs in a sedan. A better option is dual 12's, ported and firing toward the rear bumper.
Are you planning to install new rear speakers in the back as well?
The HiFonics amp is a solid choice and so is the Pioneer DEH-590IB HU. I cannot find much on this HU but it does have a lot of nice features. It seems this HU is marketed mostly outside the USA. (Brazil and such mostly)
These Fusion speakers mentioned, what model number are you considering? One of our guys have used them before and reported very good SPL results as they are very power efficient. If using the 2 ohm version, a small amp will do the job well and save electrical upgrades as well.
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&category_id=13 (Pick the one you are thinking about)
Swez
SQLThump on 07/26/2007 16:03:02
With a trunk like that, 4 subs could be gotten away with without too much problem, especially is you built two seperate boxes.
swez on 07/26/2007 20:09:30
It's not the number of woofers used that makes the difference. It's the design, installation and planning that go into a system that makes all the difference.
Have you ever heard the truism.... "Less is often more"? That applies very well in this scenario. If you want to know why, just ask.
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/26/2007 21:18:11
I truly apologize about yelling didn't know you guys were so sensitive but the fusion components sets are nv-cm65 and i apreciate the opinions of you guys on the for subs but i still want to and am going to use the four subs. Also i do plan on changing the rear deck speaker also to either four 6*9's or just just upgrading the two.
I do plan on down firing the subs (still undecied)
I plan on placing the 6.5 speakers in the doors if anyone was wondering
I also plan on using a capabac
high amp
PZI 175.4
1000W 2 / 3 / 4-Channel A/B Class Amplifier
175W x 4-Ch @ 4-Ohms or
250W x 4-Ch @ 2-Ohms or
500W x 2-Ch @ 4-Ohms Dynamic Music Watts
sub amp
BXi 1606D 1600-Watt x 1 RMS @ 1-Ohm
component set (2)
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&action=view&product_id=309
swez on 07/26/2007 22:43:02
Those were the same Fushion speakers I was thinking about and they are 2 ohm kits and 80 watts RMS/speaker. A huge 4 channel amp is not required to get these speakers up to concert level loudness in a car.
I ask that you look at this amp as an alternate to the Crunch amp mentioned. It's the right power for your Fusion speakers, a very good brand name, reliable and the same price. Crunch is now part of HiFonics/Maxxonics and the lower end of the product line at that.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?
ProductID=18147
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13124
FYI: Want to make clear that there are some very skilled and talented people on this forum. Many of us have spent years in this industry and
know what works and why. We are trying to lead you into knowledge that is greatly lacking. I have been at CK for over 8 years and in Pro Audio for more than 10 years. (Not a rookie, nor a newbie or an audio snob either... just darn good at what I put my mind and time into)
As for the rear speakers, the Fusion FJL-692 would be a very good option for your rear deck speakers. They too are 2 ohm units and are a very good match to the amps and Fusion's NV-CM65 from speakers. This is a solid paring and well priced if one shops hard.
As for the sub part of your plan, the amp choice, (BXi 1606D ) is a good one. This amp is of good quality, robust and has a reputation to match. As for the subs mentioned, the subs are a good choice.
However, in a closed trunk sedan application, we look at the truck as an extension of the subs and enclosure. The main issue is that bass is pretty much trapped in the trunk and not much passes through into the main cabin of a sedan. Yes, we can make thunder in the trunk and this plan will indeed offer that. But how about moving some of that deep bass energy into the main cabin of the car?
The other side of the equation is sound dampening the trunk to reduce and eliminate unwanted rattles and resonances? Have you contimplated a remedy for that eventuality? If not, do some research on sound dampening techniques and products. It will be needed here or all you'll hear is panel rattles at high bass levels.
Think it over my friend. We are trying to guide you and prevent the stepping off a cliff scenario that others have done before you came here. I am trying my best to be patient, point you in a well proven direction and keep you from biting off more than you bargained for. I have done this for thousands of readers in the past and it's free. All you have to do is weigh it all out.
Swez
PS "I also plan on using a capabac" Not sure I understand this one... please explain.
APK-RAISED on 07/27/2007 16:55:01
ok when you say move some of the bass into the cabin what exactly do you mean or suggest. the capabac which i am quite sure is spelled wrong. but it is a item the basically saves the electric system.
SQLThump on 07/27/2007 18:43:53
When referring to moving more bass into the cabin, Swez is probably referring to some soret of venting system to get air from the trunk to the cabin.
Measures like this include:
Folding down/removing seats.
Punching out rear armrest holes. Many luxury vehicles make this real easy by providing a "Ski-Hole" option. Whether it came out of the factory with it or not, this is usually an easy one to make happen.
Soundporting the rear deck. My personal favorite. This creates a vent right in your rear deck, which refelcts off the rear window, and bounces bass energy foward, making it echo, becoming deeper, and sending the energy where it needs to go.
Are you refferring to a capacitor? These are junk, referred to in these here as "Car Audio Bling". Basically, this is suppossed to keep voltage at a steady level, but most sommon car audio usage will drain this so fast, it's pretty much useless. Money spent on a capacitor could be much better invested in an upgraded ALT or a nice gel cell battery.
swez on 07/27/2007 19:24:15
Yes, a vent hole that allows bass to flow into the cabin is what I meant. It can be a drop down seat back, (rear seat back) a large vent cut into the rear deck for your car or some other opening between cabin and the truck.
As for powering your sub amp, you can use a dedicated battery to power only the sub amp. This often requires a Gel Cell type battery in the truck and mounted close to the sub amp. Here, the 2nd battery is charged by the ALT.
A "battery isolation" device will monitor charge in your main and secondary batteryand charge them as needed by selecting which battery needs charging and only charge as needed. This reduces the strain on the main starter battery and provides a solid current buffer storage cell to power the sub amp when large draw peaks are needed.
Got all that?
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/29/2007 02:20:24
http://www.usblaster.com/index.php/9,hid--128,sid--93,sg2id--0,sg3id--0,artId--741
i was referring to a capabat wasn't sure of the spelling but this venting you speak of sounds like a pretty good idea.
APK-RAISED on 07/29/2007 02:22:41
swez that amp you mentioned earlier the link was dead or the producted move could i get it from you
Victor on 07/29/2007 02:31:05
GRIN.... thats a capacitor and a battery combo.. what a way to sell waste...... this sure is an innovation of a marketing guy and not a technical product designer....
swez on 07/30/2007 12:28:14
Agree w/ Victor on the Capabat. It's a neat idea that won't suffice as the BAT section is just too small to hold much usable current in reserve.
One link seems to have been removed. This one works:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13124 (HiFonics 4 channel)
Swez
APK-RAISED on 07/30/2007 14:08:51
ok i'll look in to the amp. but does anyone wanna recommend a hu with a 7 band eq and ipod control for around 200 to 300 bucks and some 6*9 with good mid-bass and response or a least a big magnet dont worry bout the price for that
Victor on 07/30/2007 17:05:16
my personal preference would be the
Pioneer Premier 880PRS....
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069882_291159496,00.html
you may have to scout a bit on the internet to get this one around $300..
and for something around $200...
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8934_Alpine+CDA-9883.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_7974_Blaupunkt+Long+Beach+DVD35.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8787_Clarion+DXZ675USB.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_8780_Kenwood+KDC-MP735U.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6618_Panasonic+MXE+CQ-C8403U.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9008_Pioneer+Premier+DEH-P690UB.html
These are about it... for a budget of around $200..... the links are alphabetically placed.... pick any and i am sure you would be more than happy with the performance and upgrade capabilities....
Victor..
Victor on 07/30/2007 17:07:18
JBL and Infinity have come up with 2 ohm version 6x 9" these can extract every bit of juice from ur multichannel amp...
other than these.. if u are looking for clean crisp sound.. morel, rainbow, focal and DLS make some amazing speakers... but at a price too..
Victor...
swez on 07/30/2007 18:07:42
Have to admit the JBL & Infinity Refs or Kappas are hard to beat. Fusion also makes some very interesting and potent speakers as well. Go with 2-ways. (Woofer + tweeter and crossover versions, they sound better for the money)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Kvi8SmpW7Fz/cgi-bin/ProdGroup.asp?g=52300&avf=N&nvpair=FFDesign%7C%5Brank2%5D2%2Dway
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&category_id=13
Swez
APK-RAISED on 08/20/2007 20:53:29
DOES ANYONE KNOW ABOUT THE MB QUART RWE 354 15' SUBWOOFERS
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