I drive a 1998 for explorer, Eddie Bauer - And Im looking to spend around 1,000 on some new subs and amp...I've been leaning toward the audiobahn awes15p, but im not sure what to get so any kind of feedback would be appreciated
Replies (44)
kirchatndftbl on 06/26/2007 17:47:21
what kind of system are you looking for???? spl. sq sql???
what kind of music do you listen to?
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 18:43:07
Ok - new guy here lol...What does spl. sq and sql mean?? Does that refer to the sound quality - or how loud it is??? I dont know all the lingo... I like alot of rap - rock...
swez on 06/26/2007 20:39:01
SQ = Sound quality (High Fildelity)
SPL = Loud, bass heavy and obnoxious when mishandled
I don't think any of us will recommend Bahns based on their sub track records in high SPL apps. They just don't stand up to hard use by street bangers and dB Drag Competitions either.
Frankly, you'd be amazed how something like a Kicker L7 15 and a matching amp would bring up the bass when you wanted it. (Budget Buster)
MTX offers a few very solid amps and subs as well. The Sledgehammer series is a pretty solid solid sub and they have a few very strong amps to fit most any needs. (Budget buster)
A more budget minded system might be a good solution. PowerBass is coming into a wider range of quality products and have priced their gear like any good challenger... to be a high value, high quality but lower prices to get market attention.
A few guys here have installed them and reported very favorable results. If you want to try a quality product that has yet to build a solid name and the price tag that come with the name, consider this vendor:
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/powerbass.asp
(General Products)
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/ASA%201000.1D/detail.asp
(A solid Class D amp, 1 ohm stable) $383.00
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/L-15D/detail.asp
(15" sub, Dual 4 ohm coils, 500 Watts RMS/sub) $184/sub
To get the most low bass from this sub pair, a port tuned enclsoure is recommended. If you are good at wood working skills and can make your own box, that should save you at least $150.00. The more work you can do on your own, the better your chances of staying on budget and coming out with a fine set of subs and amp.
Comments?
Swez
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 21:01:08
The budget is just a ball park figure...I would like to be pushing around 140 dbs, I come from a small town and that would definitly get me in the top 3 at our little annual car show...I've found that ebay has new products *with warranty's for nearly half the price as other places...Not a big fan of audiobahn huh?? Why is that exactly? Im pretty sure that I want a controllable SPL...Suggestions??
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 21:30:13
Bahn gear is racking up major quality complaints here at CK bro. We hear a lot of Bahn products going over the deep end, with lots of amps failing and many subs taking mechanical damage. What I have heard of them installed sounded nice, but who cares about that when your rig doesn't last more than 6 months and you have to re do it all.
Have heard reports of the Kicker L7 15 hitting low 150DB numbers of of cardomian before. Maybe you should check it out.......
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 21:55:22
Is that just with one sub???
swez on 06/26/2007 22:16:34
Agree w/ Shootuh on the Bahn comments. They do sound pretty good out of the gate, but seem not well suited for the long haul and heavy bass duty on a regular basis.
With a well designed system, 140dB is not out of reach in this larger format SUV. Using efficient subs, a very efficient enclosure design and adequate amping power, it's doable.
One thing about SUV's, they often need a good amount of dampening materials to reduce/eliminate SPL losses due to panel flexing and air leaks. The more one seals the vehicle from leaks, the higher the dB numbers we get. Some guys have managed to hit upper 140's and low 150's SPL with a single 12 - 15" sub.
The enclosure is often a hybrid type Band Pass enclosure with a very narrow band of bass to hit big numbers. These are often called "One Note Wonders". These are great for SPL Comps, but terrible for daily driver apps.
This is done by finding the resonant frequency of a given vehicle and tuning the box to that frequency. (Typ 50-70 Hz.) BP designs are very efficient with power VS output, but not much good for the daily driver guy who likes strong bass across the lower octaves. (30-100 Hz or so)
The better apporach is either a wide band BP enclosure, (Above average SPL, below average SQ) or a ported/vented system. (A little less SPL, but much better SQL)
Finally, the Kicker L7 is one power hungry sub that demands a large vented box. The efficiency of this sub is moderately low compared to other subs in this price range. That means a huge box and a strong amp. Yes, they can deliver lots of SPL Bass, but do you want a 6-8 ft^3 box taking up most of your cargo bay? (It takes 2 men and a strong lad to move it around at >250 lbs)
Have a look at the recommended box for Max SPL Deep Bass plans:
http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/2006/2006%20L7%20Sub%20b01%20WEB.pdf
Swez
Hope that helps,
Swez
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 22:34:10
Im not too concerned with the loss of my cargo area, however you did mention that this subs efficiency was low compared to other subs in its price range - which would make it need alot more power, possibly making leaving me with no choice but to install an upgraded alt. and battery.... I do realize that with the amount of SPL im looking for, this will more than likely happen anyway
What would be some other routes that I could go, and come up with at, or around the same SPL?
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 22:35:26
*Im def. looking for something that will really bring out the really REALLY low notes as well
cplkittle on 06/26/2007 22:42:23
Powerbass is probably some of the most efficent subs I have seen in a long time. I used to sell them when I still worked in car audio, they are really good quality. The L-15D that Swez mentioned above has an efficiency rating of 94 dB 1w/1m. That means that it is 2x louder than one with a rating of 91 dB 1w/1m given the same power.
Other factors are box size and tuning frequency, cabin gain, cone area, and cone travel (Xmax).
cplkittle on 06/26/2007 22:46:07
In my experinece the larger the box, the thicker heavier lows it could produce. And if you use a 15 or a pair of 15's I gurantee you can get the bass below what your ears will pick up.
If I crank my stereo up with all the doors shut and the windows up and play a 10-15Hz test tone, you can see the entire car 'breathe'.
The windows even flex.
Decide on the sub, and we will design a box for you to build that will make it hard for you to breathe.
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 22:52:57
Considering I installed the previously mentioned Powerbass subs, and amp with the ideal box, what could I expect to hit with those?
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 22:53:24
One thing you have in your Explorer that will work to your advantage is cabin room. Your cabin should produce a nice low resonance frequency.
I wouldn't say BP is horrible for daily driver use. I have used many different BP enclosures in the past, and have pretty much always been satisified. It all depends on the music you listen to. I listen to rap, and sealed and ported enclosures don't offer me the boom for buck that I need. Personally, I think the "hybrid" system (one bandpass 10", and a sealed 10") I have run on a couple different occaisions, including my current setup works great for my application , offering a good compromise of serious thump and decent accuracy. As long as a BP dox is built to a drivers specs that is.
cplkittle on 06/26/2007 23:07:14
I can't promise numbers, but I wouldn't be surprised to see the upper 140's
anthony90 on 06/27/2007 01:42:53
I was looking around for amps - And I found this one, and I cant really see much of a difference other than the price...Is there something that Im missing other than just the name??
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/BXI1606D/detail.asp
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/ASA%201000.1D/detail.asp
swez on 06/27/2007 02:26:50
If we look at wattage to a given sub, (90dB SPL, 1w/1m) and feed it 500 watts, we get X SPL. Under the same conditions, we now feed the sub 1000 watts and see an SPL # of X + 3dB. SPL and wattage are logrithmic, not linear.
A +3dB boost is detectable to the human ear. However, to double the actual SPL we hear, we need a +9dB boost factor. One can do this with raw amping power and many large cones, or use a very efficient driver/enclosure and pick several free dB in SPL due to the enclosure design and cabin gain affects common to mobile audio. If we combine these, (Power, cabin gain and eff) now you've got something that shows real smarts.
There's one guy here named 30Hz and he'll chime in sooner or later. 30 have been doing lots of custom glass enclosure designs for both Raw SPL and SQL apps. Some of his efforts have been really neat to watch as a work in progress. I think he is well qualified to help you find a healthy balance between power, eff and solid SPL/SQL bass performance.
In a nutshell, raw power is fine for those who can afford that game. But if one is trying to run on a prudent budget and still wants peak performance, (w/o major electrical upgrades) there are ways to get there from here.
Mull it over a bit more and let's see if 30 Hz., picks up this tread. If not, I'll flag him in to the discussion.
Swez
PS Kit is a solid installer and knows his mechanics stuff well. 30 Hz is more like a specialist in sub enclosure designs department. I'm more of a "generalist" on the electronics side of the game. SPL is not my top interest. SQL and a well designed system integration package from the ground up, are the areas I tend to focus on. In this case, it would be great to have all three working with you on the project.
anthony90 on 06/27/2007 16:07:20
Thanks Swez, I really appreciate all the feedback..Im starting to learn alot more than I thought I would already..You guys def. you your stuff.
If we could get Kit, and 30 Hz in on this that would be great! 3 minds are always better than 1 lol...I'd really like to come up with something that would def. put me in the 140's, the sq is not really a huge issue, but maybe its going to be a trade off - Sq for SPL...Im not sure..
The more I research the more facinated by this I am, and I've made a decision to make this my "new hobby" and you guys have already been a huge help, and I'd like to see what we can come up with...Like I said in a previous reply, the 140's would be a perfect place to be - Almost a garantee of a top 3 if not a win in SPL..(high 140's)
Anthony90
anthony90 on 06/27/2007 16:09:58
By the way - If needed the "budget" can be bypassed to some degree..I was thinkin around $1,000 just for subs and the amp, but hey, this stuff isnt cheap, so i'll deal with it
swez on 06/27/2007 19:37:58
Hey, have been doing some new work with a guy on the east coast that is running an SQL bass system in his 06 Dodge Magnum. He has a JL 1000/1 amp and was running a JL 12W7 sealed. He wanted more SPL BASS and bought a new sub that we are all waiting to hear the results on.
Here's a link to the initial details of his new design and sub choice. 30 Hz was in on this one too and recommended this sub as the 15" SI Mag D2: (They gave very good Tech Support to D-man on ?'s he had and a very solid SQL/SPL sub too. (SQL is sealed, SPL is ported version box)
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g5142_1401
http://www.stereointegrity.com/Magnum12.html (Sub details)
As you can see, this sub can definitely hit and exceed the 140dB mark with enough power and a well designed ported box. The only catch here, you'll need a 1 ohm stable Class D amp to power it. (2+2 DVC only)
Ported specs: 3.5 ft^3 tuned to 30 Hz (Not overly huge on this bad boy) This excludes the vent displacement, so the box will actually be closer to 5.5 ft^3 for ported.
Swez
Amp recommendation: Sunbdown Audio SAE 1000D: 1000 Wrms @ 1 ohm, 85A's current draw and that's very efficient for such power. Not a bad price either... MSRP $399.00 No need for an ALT upgrade in this case either. (Just a stout BAT and Big 3 upgrade should do the job)
http://www.sundownaudio.com/
anthony90 on 06/28/2007 00:23:15
Wow, the mag is def. a monster!! I do believe we are a step closer in my journey to achieve the 140's lol...I did notice that an explorer had 4 mags in it I believe, and hit 150's...Am I going to be able to achieve my goal with a single mag D2??
After reading the reviews on the mag, it has definitily gotten me really anxious to get home and see what kind madness I can cause in the hatch!! It seems to be a great choice for what Im looking for..Thanks for the link!!
As far as the prices, I'd be willing to invest - Im almost sure I'd want to build the box myself, unless I could get it locally made for a reasonable price..Im not sure which route i'll take there, but we'll see..
Right now I have a 4 ga. power acustic wiring setup installed, with stinger RCA's..Will that be enough to handle the current i'll be using? Upgrade to 1/0??
And by the way, care to make any comments on line drivers?? (genral review)
Thanks man - Anthony90
big_bass_chase on 06/28/2007 03:31:05
I just changed my name on here to better suit what Im doing...(anthony90) Maybe this wont cause any confusion..
swez on 06/28/2007 12:44:39
This is great!!! It's not often we find guys that come to this site and ask great questions, define their goals and then take the logical steps to get there in time. (Too often, guys come here after they buy and install gear that does not meet their expectations and ask us to help them fix it) That often means pulling out the junk they bought and starting over with empty wallets.
As for the true performance of Si Mag D2, am waiting for an update from D-man on his new enclosure and sub install. He's taking the SQL route and using a sealed box and a single Mag D2, 15" sub, powered off his JL 1000/1 amp. He started with a JL 12W7 and loved the SQ. However, in time he wanted more SPL too. Once we get a report on his progress, then I'll comment from there on this option. (Patience my boy... as you can still do other phases of the install now and prep for the big show when it's time) LOL
Wiring upgrades are something you can do now. To get the maximum power flow to your sub amp, (And any other amps used later) I highly recommend using 1/0 gage wire for your main power line. The #4 can be used in shorter lengths to power your future amp(s) when you pull the trigger later. This also includes the Big 3 wiring upgrade inder the hood.
FYI: A typical #4 wire is rated between 80-100A's of current flow and the resistance of the wire at a given length. In your case, the power line length from the battery to the amp(s) could be over 20 feet. To counter voltage drops that rob amps of the power they need to function at peak performace, we shoot for a voltage drop of <0.5 volts between the BAT and amps.
A 20 foot length of #4 line has about 0.005 ohms of resistance. (5 milliohms) Not bad for modest current draws under 80A's
A 20 foot length of 1/0 gage line is about 0.0001 ohms. (0.1 milli-ohms)
Now that's ultra-low resistance and virtually no power drops and rated for about 250A's of current.
About Line Driver's: These are preamps that boost HU signal output to the amp(s) used. They are only needed when the present HU cannot supply enough input signal to the amp(s) that get them to full potential. (This is rare with today's amps and HU pairings)
Most HU's offer 2-4 volts of signal to a given amp input channel. Most amps can reach full power with as little as 1/4 volt, depending on the preamp gain control range of a given amp. The best feature of a good LD, it boosts HU signals strenth and allows the amp to reach full power w/o adding noise to the audio output stage of the amp(s) used. In most cases, this device is only needed if the HU has very weak RCA preout and a very noise prone vehicle.
Does that answer your questions BBC?
Swez
big_bass_chase on 06/28/2007 17:13:00
Well, once again you have proven your broad knowledge of car audio, answering my questions to a "T" as well as helping me to expand my general understanding and "know how"...
My ultimate goal is not only to achieve the 140's, furthermore i'd like to learn as much as possible about the "what's, why's, where's and how's" of a good over all driver/amp/enclosure SPL and SQ application..I attended a very generalized basic electronis course about 3 years ago, and I defintily need some sort of re-cap on that...I believe im on the right track though!! Im looking to be the guy that all my friends want to call when there having problems..From just browsing around on this site, I've read articles about problems that i've had first hand, as well as problems that could easily be recognized and solved by the information given..Great job guys :)
I'll be upgrading the mid's and high's to an undecided component system later, I need the trunk bumpin' first lol..
Ok, so here's where we stand..Right now Im waiting on the reports of the Mag D2 before I make a final decision on that, but I have hopes of a great report because im a little bit in love with it right now lol..If the reports turn out well, then we'll go with that one, if not, we'll figure it out when we get there..So, D2 mag - Sundown amp - and a ported enclosure (to optimize SPL)...Great start I think, but this is something that I dont want to rush into - GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!
*Wiring - def. big 3 upgrade - and a new install of 1/0 wire (I'm sure that's enough for what i'll ever want to put in there) And possibly some new RCA's. The ones I have in now have been used for about 4 years..Optima battery install
Now, a little bit about what kind of time frame were looking at...I'll be leaving Iraq within 6 weeks or so, so we still have a while before any final decisions have to be made..So as far as doing some of the small steps are not gonna be able to happen until i get home..I would like to have everything there waiting for me when first get home - Im so anxious to apply what I've learned here into my vehicle..
What I could do is get the wiring ordered, Im sure i can find a kit with a sufficent in-line fuse... I'll also need enough terminal lugs to complete that install (along with the big 3) I think Im going to keep it safe and use 1/0 for the big 3 as well..I think I may have heat - shrink big enough to cover the wire, but not sure..*I have a solidering kit that i'll be using..
Maybe this little bit of info will help you help me!! Thanks man
BBC
big_bass_chase on 06/28/2007 18:27:05
*By the way, Is'nt voltage lost as heat?? I dont think heat Is our friend here..lol
swez on 06/28/2007 20:09:42
I have used and recommended wiring hardware from Knukonceptz. Many here have tried them and liked the products very well. They have very good hardware, wiring products and fuse kits too. If you need extra connectors, you can buy them alacarte as needed.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/
Won't be doing much soldering with KK wiring products. They are all crimp and/or mechanical locking systems. Under the hood, you can use wire loom and shrink tubing to hide your wires and give a clean OEM look, but that's pretty much it.
As for RCA lines, since you only want to do this once, it's best to do all of your prewireing at one time when possible. KK has a 2 pair RCA product (4 lines in a bundle) and adding a 1 pair set will give you all the RCA channel support needed for sub and 4 channel amps used later. This gives the driver full control at his fingertips for Front/Rear and Sub functions.
Another option that often works well, if the 4 channel amp used has a preout set of RCA's, then one can daisy chain to the sub amp from there and use a short RCA wire pair with very good results. Many new sub amps have remote control bass kits. This allows the driver to adjust bass desired on the fly w/o affecting any other gear used. The Sundown sub amps have a remote control feature. The Sundown SAX-100.4 amp has preouts to feed your sub amp if desired.
If you Explorer is similar to the F-150 chassis, I found running the 1/0 on the drivers side harness rails and RCA lines and front speaker lines on the passenger side rails worked well. It's a tight fit, but it worked out great.
May I suggest starting a parts list of gear you will be ordering when you get home. This will give you a good idea what the cost are for things, where to order and how to be well preped when you get started.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/3/2007 23:58:48
Alright guys, I've decided to go with the Mag D2, but I cant seem to find a direct link to order it...Any help??
Im going to use the sundown amp that you recommended as well - Direct order link??
I've got the wiring on the way, but I'd like to try it out first with the 4 ga first, and check the output on the amp while on a 30hz tone and volume at a steady setting - then check it again with the new wire, with everything set the same just too see how much of a difference it makes..(Probably not much with the modest current draw of the amp)
I'd like to start an enclosure design, to maximize SPL @ 30hz..
Thanks guys - BBC
swez on 07/4/2007 07:27:08
OK, ready to pull the trigger huh? Here's the ordering details for the sub and amp mentioned:
http://www.stereointegrity.com/order.html
http://www.sundownaudio.com/ (Dealers/Reps)
Just pick the dealer/rep that is closest to you and ask for detailed specs on the sub woofer recommeded enclosure of your preference.
15" for sealed: 2.3 to 3 ft^3 (Ideal SQ is 2.7 ft^3)
15" for ported: 3.5 ft^3 tuned to 30 Hz. (plus port area)
This woofer has a displacement of 0.150 ft^3/sub. Don't forget to add this into your box computations.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/4/2007 22:34:40
Swez, I emailed the guys at Stereo Intgrity, and here's the email I got back..
First off, the SI mags have been out of stock for quite some time now. SI is
working on coming out with a new version of the mag, but until that is released
they won't have any more in stock.
If you are looking for a comparable sub, that will get louder, and sound just as
the good. The RD audio alpha would do it. The subwoofer itself will be
cheaper, but I would suggest spending a little more on the SAZ-1500D instead of
the 1000D. But the SAZ-1500D, with a 12 or 15" Alpha would be perfect for what
you are looking for.
And for your information, a 15" Alpha is $400 shipped, and the SAZ-1500D would
be $450 to your door. So for $850 you could have both.
And if you are interested in the alpha let me know, and I can have a custom box
design drawn up for you to maximize SPL at 30hz or so.
What would you suggest??? hrrmmmmmm
Thanks BBC
swez on 07/4/2007 22:57:58
Hehe, have a look at these:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGvz3shT1DI (dual 18's)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5ZRukCncjI (A 15")
It would be good to ask for the box specs in this RD Audio Alpha sub and enclosure recommendations before taking the bait. If it can be done to fit in your ride, why not.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/4/2007 23:17:38
Haha - Nice!!
Finding out the mags were almost impossible to get right now makes me want to eat tar-covered thumb tacks lol.. The video's I watched of the mags were awesome!!
I've never heard of the RD audio Aplha's before, so Im waiting on a reply back for the specs of the 15" and also the 18"..
Anywho - Thanks for all the help buddy!
BBC
big_bass_chase on 07/4/2007 23:32:08
By the way - My biggest fear is that Im gonna spend $400 - $500 on a single sub that is'nt really worth it's weight in dirt lol...Yes, this would suck!!
swez on 07/5/2007 12:01:50
If a Mfg is going to put out a sub in that price range, it had better be up to snuff and a good return policy if the customer is not happy with the results. (Check that part out well, before you buy)
Yes, we also have to do a solid install too. But having quality gear matters too.
A good gage on the company you are talking with is how well they respond to your pre-buy questions. If they give solid recommendations, provide enclosure spes for the woofer and your info is timely from them, chances are better than average they know what they are doing and have a solid product and staff to support their customers.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/5/2007 19:36:00
Well, despite all our research on the mags, It seems we may be back at square one lol..The person I've been in contact with about the audio alpha's doesnt seem to be in a hurry to give me the T/S parameters for the 15" version, All the info that I got out of my last e-mail was that it was a quote "comparable sub" However he did state that they would design an enclosure for SPL apps for free...
They do offer custom built 18's for around $575 - Im waiting for a reply on what options i'd have to work with if that was the route I decided to take..
This really is'nt looking good right now ~
Comments?
swez on 07/5/2007 20:09:20
If you are not happy with the current progress and info flow, we can look in a new direction.
One of our guys bought some TC-9 subs a while back and loved them. Another guy is looking to use a 15" woofer from SoundStream and this shows some real promise in a truck install and using your present amp.
Am a bit more familiar with the SoundStream products as I have a pair of the older SPL 10's and they are pretty solid and good efficiency too. In your case, consider the sub noted below:
http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/2006/sbw/SPLX%20SUBWOOF.pdf
http://www.soundstream.com/subwoofers-splx.htm
Here, they recommend a 3.0 ft^3 ported enclosure and the sub RMS rating is 1000 Wrms. This sub comes in 2+2 or 4+4 DVC's. If using a Class D MONO amp that is 1 ohm stable, use the 2+2 version. If using a 2 ohm stable Class D, use the 4+4 version.
That HiFonics Brutus amp mentioned earlier would be a solid choice.
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/BXI1606D/detail.asp
Care to move back into the mainstream products and take it from here?
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/5/2007 21:32:13
Thanks for the links, and all the time you've spent on this project..I'll be sure to make a donation :)
This seems Like a safer road to take, so I think im going to go with the soundstream SPLX-152 with the 1 ohm stable Brutus Amp..I'll be sure to keep you posted on how everything works out next month when I get home..
I may need help on the dimesions of the enclosure later on ~
Until then, thanks for all the help buddy!
BBC
swez on 07/6/2007 23:10:53
Always glad to help a man in uniform who is serving our country. Just get home safe and we can pick things up when you get home. If you want some one on one coaching, that can be arranged via private e-mails.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 07/7/2007 12:14:53
Whoa, a change of name? Swez, can I set myself up with something a little more mature?
swez on 07/7/2007 16:25:00
Sure you can... Just like POwerLifter & BBC changed their handles, you can create a new profile and screen name too.
Keep it short OK?
A more mature name sounds good too. You have grown a lot since you first came here and why not reflect that in the new handle?
Swez
PS I have a small confession to make Shoot... when you first got here, I had a hard time relating to the communication style used. (Ghetto slang thrower stuff) But in time, I got over that and saw something much deeper emerging.
You came to learn and now a contributor toward helping others. That changed my impressions a lot and now value your comments and willingness to show others the way. I respect that!!! CLAP Keep up the good show... SMILE
big_bass_chase on 07/7/2007 22:33:25
Sounds good, If you have a myspace look me up and we'll go from there..
www.myspace.com/anthonysullivan
SQLThump on 07/8/2007 08:33:03
Just thought I would let it be known-
Shootuh Mcbustacap = SQLThump
I think its fitting, more mature, and demonstrated growth here at CK. Besides, I was beginning to think the old handle was getting a little hard for even me to take seroiusly............
jamesp on 07/8/2007 10:44:21
SQLThump, good move, keep up the good work.
big_bass_chase on 11/22/2007 15:44:23
Alright guys, i've been out of the scene for awhile but it seems as if my 15" kicker L7 is about to take its last breath..
If i play it at a reasonable level for about a 15 min. drive, I smell something similar to that of burning plastic.. I've checked all my wiring while playing songs and found no melting wires. The smell is coming from inside the ported box.
Im not sure if a coil is about to go bad or what, im sure its not the wiring though..
The sound hasnt changed much, even when it gets hot and i begin to smell it.. Still sounds good, Im just wondering if i should start looking for another sub..* A comparable one
big_bass_chase on 11/22/2007 15:48:39
*I never could find an audio shop with in SPL meter so see exactly how loud it really was, but i was completely happy with it.. It was a great choice, I just thought it would've lasted longer than what it has.. And no, it doesnt get everyday "abuse" lol
swez on 11/23/2007 07:11:28
If the sub still sounds good, it may just be something as simple as extra glue is burning off the voice coil bobbin. When we throw high wattage into a sub, there's a great deal of heat generated in the coil. That's normal, but most quality subs are well vented to keep things cool enough to prevent premature failures. (Due to excess heat)
You may want to pull the sub and give it a very careful visual inspection. Look for hot spots, (discoloration) in the spider and make sure all air vents are clear and free of any obstructions too. Also, have a close look at the wiring used. Look for signs of melting insulation on the wires and replace them as needed with larger gage wires. (Inside the box)
Finally, since this is a ported system, make sure to use a Subsonic Filter on the amp that is powering this sub. Knowing the actual tuning frequency of the port is difficult to detect w/o some specific tools. A decent SPL meter is cheap and is a very usable tool for diagnostics and troubleshooting. (Not just how much boom we get)
Radio Shack sells a useful SPL meter for under $50.00 and does a pretty good job up to its limits. (126 dB SPL) With a little math, we can "estimate" higher SPL values then the meter can actually read. Can give some details if you want to go this route.
Swez
Replies (44)
kirchatndftbl on 06/26/2007 17:47:21
what kind of system are you looking for???? spl. sq sql???
what kind of music do you listen to?
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 18:43:07
Ok - new guy here lol...What does spl. sq and sql mean?? Does that refer to the sound quality - or how loud it is??? I dont know all the lingo... I like alot of rap - rock...
swez on 06/26/2007 20:39:01
SQ = Sound quality (High Fildelity)
SPL = Loud, bass heavy and obnoxious when mishandled
I don't think any of us will recommend Bahns based on their sub track records in high SPL apps. They just don't stand up to hard use by street bangers and dB Drag Competitions either.
Frankly, you'd be amazed how something like a Kicker L7 15 and a matching amp would bring up the bass when you wanted it. (Budget Buster)
MTX offers a few very solid amps and subs as well. The Sledgehammer series is a pretty solid solid sub and they have a few very strong amps to fit most any needs. (Budget buster)
A more budget minded system might be a good solution. PowerBass is coming into a wider range of quality products and have priced their gear like any good challenger... to be a high value, high quality but lower prices to get market attention.
A few guys here have installed them and reported very favorable results. If you want to try a quality product that has yet to build a solid name and the price tag that come with the name, consider this vendor:
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/powerbass.asp
(General Products)
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/ASA%201000.1D/detail.asp
(A solid Class D amp, 1 ohm stable) $383.00
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/L-15D/detail.asp
(15" sub, Dual 4 ohm coils, 500 Watts RMS/sub) $184/sub
To get the most low bass from this sub pair, a port tuned enclsoure is recommended. If you are good at wood working skills and can make your own box, that should save you at least $150.00. The more work you can do on your own, the better your chances of staying on budget and coming out with a fine set of subs and amp.
Comments?
Swez
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 21:01:08
The budget is just a ball park figure...I would like to be pushing around 140 dbs, I come from a small town and that would definitly get me in the top 3 at our little annual car show...I've found that ebay has new products *with warranty's for nearly half the price as other places...Not a big fan of audiobahn huh?? Why is that exactly? Im pretty sure that I want a controllable SPL...Suggestions??
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 21:30:13
Bahn gear is racking up major quality complaints here at CK bro. We hear a lot of Bahn products going over the deep end, with lots of amps failing and many subs taking mechanical damage. What I have heard of them installed sounded nice, but who cares about that when your rig doesn't last more than 6 months and you have to re do it all.
Have heard reports of the Kicker L7 15 hitting low 150DB numbers of of cardomian before. Maybe you should check it out.......
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 21:55:22
Is that just with one sub???
swez on 06/26/2007 22:16:34
Agree w/ Shootuh on the Bahn comments. They do sound pretty good out of the gate, but seem not well suited for the long haul and heavy bass duty on a regular basis.
With a well designed system, 140dB is not out of reach in this larger format SUV. Using efficient subs, a very efficient enclosure design and adequate amping power, it's doable.
One thing about SUV's, they often need a good amount of dampening materials to reduce/eliminate SPL losses due to panel flexing and air leaks. The more one seals the vehicle from leaks, the higher the dB numbers we get. Some guys have managed to hit upper 140's and low 150's SPL with a single 12 - 15" sub.
The enclosure is often a hybrid type Band Pass enclosure with a very narrow band of bass to hit big numbers. These are often called "One Note Wonders". These are great for SPL Comps, but terrible for daily driver apps.
This is done by finding the resonant frequency of a given vehicle and tuning the box to that frequency. (Typ 50-70 Hz.) BP designs are very efficient with power VS output, but not much good for the daily driver guy who likes strong bass across the lower octaves. (30-100 Hz or so)
The better apporach is either a wide band BP enclosure, (Above average SPL, below average SQ) or a ported/vented system. (A little less SPL, but much better SQL)
Finally, the Kicker L7 is one power hungry sub that demands a large vented box. The efficiency of this sub is moderately low compared to other subs in this price range. That means a huge box and a strong amp. Yes, they can deliver lots of SPL Bass, but do you want a 6-8 ft^3 box taking up most of your cargo bay? (It takes 2 men and a strong lad to move it around at >250 lbs)
Have a look at the recommended box for Max SPL Deep Bass plans:
http://www.kicker.com/06/tech-support/manuals/manuals/2006/2006%20L7%20Sub%20b01%20WEB.pdf
Swez
Hope that helps,
Swez
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 22:34:10
Im not too concerned with the loss of my cargo area, however you did mention that this subs efficiency was low compared to other subs in its price range - which would make it need alot more power, possibly making leaving me with no choice but to install an upgraded alt. and battery.... I do realize that with the amount of SPL im looking for, this will more than likely happen anyway
What would be some other routes that I could go, and come up with at, or around the same SPL?
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 22:35:26
*Im def. looking for something that will really bring out the really REALLY low notes as well
cplkittle on 06/26/2007 22:42:23
Powerbass is probably some of the most efficent subs I have seen in a long time. I used to sell them when I still worked in car audio, they are really good quality. The L-15D that Swez mentioned above has an efficiency rating of 94 dB 1w/1m. That means that it is 2x louder than one with a rating of 91 dB 1w/1m given the same power.
Other factors are box size and tuning frequency, cabin gain, cone area, and cone travel (Xmax).
cplkittle on 06/26/2007 22:46:07
In my experinece the larger the box, the thicker heavier lows it could produce. And if you use a 15 or a pair of 15's I gurantee you can get the bass below what your ears will pick up.
If I crank my stereo up with all the doors shut and the windows up and play a 10-15Hz test tone, you can see the entire car 'breathe'.
The windows even flex.
Decide on the sub, and we will design a box for you to build that will make it hard for you to breathe.
anthony90 on 06/26/2007 22:52:57
Considering I installed the previously mentioned Powerbass subs, and amp with the ideal box, what could I expect to hit with those?
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 22:53:24
One thing you have in your Explorer that will work to your advantage is cabin room. Your cabin should produce a nice low resonance frequency.
I wouldn't say BP is horrible for daily driver use. I have used many different BP enclosures in the past, and have pretty much always been satisified. It all depends on the music you listen to. I listen to rap, and sealed and ported enclosures don't offer me the boom for buck that I need. Personally, I think the "hybrid" system (one bandpass 10", and a sealed 10") I have run on a couple different occaisions, including my current setup works great for my application , offering a good compromise of serious thump and decent accuracy. As long as a BP dox is built to a drivers specs that is.
cplkittle on 06/26/2007 23:07:14
I can't promise numbers, but I wouldn't be surprised to see the upper 140's
anthony90 on 06/27/2007 01:42:53
I was looking around for amps - And I found this one, and I cant really see much of a difference other than the price...Is there something that Im missing other than just the name??
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/BXI1606D/detail.asp
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/ASA%201000.1D/detail.asp
swez on 06/27/2007 02:26:50
If we look at wattage to a given sub, (90dB SPL, 1w/1m) and feed it 500 watts, we get X SPL. Under the same conditions, we now feed the sub 1000 watts and see an SPL # of X + 3dB. SPL and wattage are logrithmic, not linear.
A +3dB boost is detectable to the human ear. However, to double the actual SPL we hear, we need a +9dB boost factor. One can do this with raw amping power and many large cones, or use a very efficient driver/enclosure and pick several free dB in SPL due to the enclosure design and cabin gain affects common to mobile audio. If we combine these, (Power, cabin gain and eff) now you've got something that shows real smarts.
There's one guy here named 30Hz and he'll chime in sooner or later. 30 have been doing lots of custom glass enclosure designs for both Raw SPL and SQL apps. Some of his efforts have been really neat to watch as a work in progress. I think he is well qualified to help you find a healthy balance between power, eff and solid SPL/SQL bass performance.
In a nutshell, raw power is fine for those who can afford that game. But if one is trying to run on a prudent budget and still wants peak performance, (w/o major electrical upgrades) there are ways to get there from here.
Mull it over a bit more and let's see if 30 Hz., picks up this tread. If not, I'll flag him in to the discussion.
Swez
PS Kit is a solid installer and knows his mechanics stuff well. 30 Hz is more like a specialist in sub enclosure designs department. I'm more of a "generalist" on the electronics side of the game. SPL is not my top interest. SQL and a well designed system integration package from the ground up, are the areas I tend to focus on. In this case, it would be great to have all three working with you on the project.
anthony90 on 06/27/2007 16:07:20
Thanks Swez, I really appreciate all the feedback..Im starting to learn alot more than I thought I would already..You guys def. you your stuff.
If we could get Kit, and 30 Hz in on this that would be great! 3 minds are always better than 1 lol...I'd really like to come up with something that would def. put me in the 140's, the sq is not really a huge issue, but maybe its going to be a trade off - Sq for SPL...Im not sure..
The more I research the more facinated by this I am, and I've made a decision to make this my "new hobby" and you guys have already been a huge help, and I'd like to see what we can come up with...Like I said in a previous reply, the 140's would be a perfect place to be - Almost a garantee of a top 3 if not a win in SPL..(high 140's)
Anthony90
anthony90 on 06/27/2007 16:09:58
By the way - If needed the "budget" can be bypassed to some degree..I was thinkin around $1,000 just for subs and the amp, but hey, this stuff isnt cheap, so i'll deal with it
swez on 06/27/2007 19:37:58
Hey, have been doing some new work with a guy on the east coast that is running an SQL bass system in his 06 Dodge Magnum. He has a JL 1000/1 amp and was running a JL 12W7 sealed. He wanted more SPL BASS and bought a new sub that we are all waiting to hear the results on.
Here's a link to the initial details of his new design and sub choice. 30 Hz was in on this one too and recommended this sub as the 15" SI Mag D2: (They gave very good Tech Support to D-man on ?'s he had and a very solid SQL/SPL sub too. (SQL is sealed, SPL is ported version box)
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?g5142_1401
http://www.stereointegrity.com/Magnum12.html (Sub details)
As you can see, this sub can definitely hit and exceed the 140dB mark with enough power and a well designed ported box. The only catch here, you'll need a 1 ohm stable Class D amp to power it. (2+2 DVC only)
Ported specs: 3.5 ft^3 tuned to 30 Hz (Not overly huge on this bad boy) This excludes the vent displacement, so the box will actually be closer to 5.5 ft^3 for ported.
Swez
Amp recommendation: Sunbdown Audio SAE 1000D: 1000 Wrms @ 1 ohm, 85A's current draw and that's very efficient for such power. Not a bad price either... MSRP $399.00 No need for an ALT upgrade in this case either. (Just a stout BAT and Big 3 upgrade should do the job)
http://www.sundownaudio.com/
anthony90 on 06/28/2007 00:23:15
Wow, the mag is def. a monster!! I do believe we are a step closer in my journey to achieve the 140's lol...I did notice that an explorer had 4 mags in it I believe, and hit 150's...Am I going to be able to achieve my goal with a single mag D2??
After reading the reviews on the mag, it has definitily gotten me really anxious to get home and see what kind madness I can cause in the hatch!! It seems to be a great choice for what Im looking for..Thanks for the link!!
As far as the prices, I'd be willing to invest - Im almost sure I'd want to build the box myself, unless I could get it locally made for a reasonable price..Im not sure which route i'll take there, but we'll see..
Right now I have a 4 ga. power acustic wiring setup installed, with stinger RCA's..Will that be enough to handle the current i'll be using? Upgrade to 1/0??
And by the way, care to make any comments on line drivers?? (genral review)
Thanks man - Anthony90
big_bass_chase on 06/28/2007 03:31:05
I just changed my name on here to better suit what Im doing...(anthony90) Maybe this wont cause any confusion..
swez on 06/28/2007 12:44:39
This is great!!! It's not often we find guys that come to this site and ask great questions, define their goals and then take the logical steps to get there in time. (Too often, guys come here after they buy and install gear that does not meet their expectations and ask us to help them fix it) That often means pulling out the junk they bought and starting over with empty wallets.
As for the true performance of Si Mag D2, am waiting for an update from D-man on his new enclosure and sub install. He's taking the SQL route and using a sealed box and a single Mag D2, 15" sub, powered off his JL 1000/1 amp. He started with a JL 12W7 and loved the SQ. However, in time he wanted more SPL too. Once we get a report on his progress, then I'll comment from there on this option. (Patience my boy... as you can still do other phases of the install now and prep for the big show when it's time) LOL
Wiring upgrades are something you can do now. To get the maximum power flow to your sub amp, (And any other amps used later) I highly recommend using 1/0 gage wire for your main power line. The #4 can be used in shorter lengths to power your future amp(s) when you pull the trigger later. This also includes the Big 3 wiring upgrade inder the hood.
FYI: A typical #4 wire is rated between 80-100A's of current flow and the resistance of the wire at a given length. In your case, the power line length from the battery to the amp(s) could be over 20 feet. To counter voltage drops that rob amps of the power they need to function at peak performace, we shoot for a voltage drop of <0.5 volts between the BAT and amps.
A 20 foot length of #4 line has about 0.005 ohms of resistance. (5 milliohms) Not bad for modest current draws under 80A's
A 20 foot length of 1/0 gage line is about 0.0001 ohms. (0.1 milli-ohms)
Now that's ultra-low resistance and virtually no power drops and rated for about 250A's of current.
About Line Driver's: These are preamps that boost HU signal output to the amp(s) used. They are only needed when the present HU cannot supply enough input signal to the amp(s) that get them to full potential. (This is rare with today's amps and HU pairings)
Most HU's offer 2-4 volts of signal to a given amp input channel. Most amps can reach full power with as little as 1/4 volt, depending on the preamp gain control range of a given amp. The best feature of a good LD, it boosts HU signals strenth and allows the amp to reach full power w/o adding noise to the audio output stage of the amp(s) used. In most cases, this device is only needed if the HU has very weak RCA preout and a very noise prone vehicle.
Does that answer your questions BBC?
Swez
big_bass_chase on 06/28/2007 17:13:00
Well, once again you have proven your broad knowledge of car audio, answering my questions to a "T" as well as helping me to expand my general understanding and "know how"...
My ultimate goal is not only to achieve the 140's, furthermore i'd like to learn as much as possible about the "what's, why's, where's and how's" of a good over all driver/amp/enclosure SPL and SQ application..I attended a very generalized basic electronis course about 3 years ago, and I defintily need some sort of re-cap on that...I believe im on the right track though!! Im looking to be the guy that all my friends want to call when there having problems..From just browsing around on this site, I've read articles about problems that i've had first hand, as well as problems that could easily be recognized and solved by the information given..Great job guys :)
I'll be upgrading the mid's and high's to an undecided component system later, I need the trunk bumpin' first lol..
Ok, so here's where we stand..Right now Im waiting on the reports of the Mag D2 before I make a final decision on that, but I have hopes of a great report because im a little bit in love with it right now lol..If the reports turn out well, then we'll go with that one, if not, we'll figure it out when we get there..So, D2 mag - Sundown amp - and a ported enclosure (to optimize SPL)...Great start I think, but this is something that I dont want to rush into - GET IT RIGHT THE FIRST TIME!
*Wiring - def. big 3 upgrade - and a new install of 1/0 wire (I'm sure that's enough for what i'll ever want to put in there) And possibly some new RCA's. The ones I have in now have been used for about 4 years..Optima battery install
Now, a little bit about what kind of time frame were looking at...I'll be leaving Iraq within 6 weeks or so, so we still have a while before any final decisions have to be made..So as far as doing some of the small steps are not gonna be able to happen until i get home..I would like to have everything there waiting for me when first get home - Im so anxious to apply what I've learned here into my vehicle..
What I could do is get the wiring ordered, Im sure i can find a kit with a sufficent in-line fuse... I'll also need enough terminal lugs to complete that install (along with the big 3) I think Im going to keep it safe and use 1/0 for the big 3 as well..I think I may have heat - shrink big enough to cover the wire, but not sure..*I have a solidering kit that i'll be using..
Maybe this little bit of info will help you help me!! Thanks man
BBC
big_bass_chase on 06/28/2007 18:27:05
*By the way, Is'nt voltage lost as heat?? I dont think heat Is our friend here..lol
swez on 06/28/2007 20:09:42
I have used and recommended wiring hardware from Knukonceptz. Many here have tried them and liked the products very well. They have very good hardware, wiring products and fuse kits too. If you need extra connectors, you can buy them alacarte as needed.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/
Won't be doing much soldering with KK wiring products. They are all crimp and/or mechanical locking systems. Under the hood, you can use wire loom and shrink tubing to hide your wires and give a clean OEM look, but that's pretty much it.
As for RCA lines, since you only want to do this once, it's best to do all of your prewireing at one time when possible. KK has a 2 pair RCA product (4 lines in a bundle) and adding a 1 pair set will give you all the RCA channel support needed for sub and 4 channel amps used later. This gives the driver full control at his fingertips for Front/Rear and Sub functions.
Another option that often works well, if the 4 channel amp used has a preout set of RCA's, then one can daisy chain to the sub amp from there and use a short RCA wire pair with very good results. Many new sub amps have remote control bass kits. This allows the driver to adjust bass desired on the fly w/o affecting any other gear used. The Sundown sub amps have a remote control feature. The Sundown SAX-100.4 amp has preouts to feed your sub amp if desired.
If you Explorer is similar to the F-150 chassis, I found running the 1/0 on the drivers side harness rails and RCA lines and front speaker lines on the passenger side rails worked well. It's a tight fit, but it worked out great.
May I suggest starting a parts list of gear you will be ordering when you get home. This will give you a good idea what the cost are for things, where to order and how to be well preped when you get started.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/3/2007 23:58:48
Alright guys, I've decided to go with the Mag D2, but I cant seem to find a direct link to order it...Any help??
Im going to use the sundown amp that you recommended as well - Direct order link??
I've got the wiring on the way, but I'd like to try it out first with the 4 ga first, and check the output on the amp while on a 30hz tone and volume at a steady setting - then check it again with the new wire, with everything set the same just too see how much of a difference it makes..(Probably not much with the modest current draw of the amp)
I'd like to start an enclosure design, to maximize SPL @ 30hz..
Thanks guys - BBC
swez on 07/4/2007 07:27:08
OK, ready to pull the trigger huh? Here's the ordering details for the sub and amp mentioned:
http://www.stereointegrity.com/order.html
http://www.sundownaudio.com/ (Dealers/Reps)
Just pick the dealer/rep that is closest to you and ask for detailed specs on the sub woofer recommeded enclosure of your preference.
15" for sealed: 2.3 to 3 ft^3 (Ideal SQ is 2.7 ft^3)
15" for ported: 3.5 ft^3 tuned to 30 Hz. (plus port area)
This woofer has a displacement of 0.150 ft^3/sub. Don't forget to add this into your box computations.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/4/2007 22:34:40
Swez, I emailed the guys at Stereo Intgrity, and here's the email I got back..
First off, the SI mags have been out of stock for quite some time now. SI is
working on coming out with a new version of the mag, but until that is released
they won't have any more in stock.
If you are looking for a comparable sub, that will get louder, and sound just as
the good. The RD audio alpha would do it. The subwoofer itself will be
cheaper, but I would suggest spending a little more on the SAZ-1500D instead of
the 1000D. But the SAZ-1500D, with a 12 or 15" Alpha would be perfect for what
you are looking for.
And for your information, a 15" Alpha is $400 shipped, and the SAZ-1500D would
be $450 to your door. So for $850 you could have both.
And if you are interested in the alpha let me know, and I can have a custom box
design drawn up for you to maximize SPL at 30hz or so.
What would you suggest??? hrrmmmmmm
Thanks BBC
swez on 07/4/2007 22:57:58
Hehe, have a look at these:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VGvz3shT1DI (dual 18's)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y5ZRukCncjI (A 15")
It would be good to ask for the box specs in this RD Audio Alpha sub and enclosure recommendations before taking the bait. If it can be done to fit in your ride, why not.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/4/2007 23:17:38
Haha - Nice!!
Finding out the mags were almost impossible to get right now makes me want to eat tar-covered thumb tacks lol.. The video's I watched of the mags were awesome!!
I've never heard of the RD audio Aplha's before, so Im waiting on a reply back for the specs of the 15" and also the 18"..
Anywho - Thanks for all the help buddy!
BBC
big_bass_chase on 07/4/2007 23:32:08
By the way - My biggest fear is that Im gonna spend $400 - $500 on a single sub that is'nt really worth it's weight in dirt lol...Yes, this would suck!!
swez on 07/5/2007 12:01:50
If a Mfg is going to put out a sub in that price range, it had better be up to snuff and a good return policy if the customer is not happy with the results. (Check that part out well, before you buy)
Yes, we also have to do a solid install too. But having quality gear matters too.
A good gage on the company you are talking with is how well they respond to your pre-buy questions. If they give solid recommendations, provide enclosure spes for the woofer and your info is timely from them, chances are better than average they know what they are doing and have a solid product and staff to support their customers.
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/5/2007 19:36:00
Well, despite all our research on the mags, It seems we may be back at square one lol..The person I've been in contact with about the audio alpha's doesnt seem to be in a hurry to give me the T/S parameters for the 15" version, All the info that I got out of my last e-mail was that it was a quote "comparable sub" However he did state that they would design an enclosure for SPL apps for free...
They do offer custom built 18's for around $575 - Im waiting for a reply on what options i'd have to work with if that was the route I decided to take..
This really is'nt looking good right now ~
Comments?
swez on 07/5/2007 20:09:20
If you are not happy with the current progress and info flow, we can look in a new direction.
One of our guys bought some TC-9 subs a while back and loved them. Another guy is looking to use a 15" woofer from SoundStream and this shows some real promise in a truck install and using your present amp.
Am a bit more familiar with the SoundStream products as I have a pair of the older SPL 10's and they are pretty solid and good efficiency too. In your case, consider the sub noted below:
http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/2006/sbw/SPLX%20SUBWOOF.pdf
http://www.soundstream.com/subwoofers-splx.htm
Here, they recommend a 3.0 ft^3 ported enclosure and the sub RMS rating is 1000 Wrms. This sub comes in 2+2 or 4+4 DVC's. If using a Class D MONO amp that is 1 ohm stable, use the 2+2 version. If using a 2 ohm stable Class D, use the 4+4 version.
That HiFonics Brutus amp mentioned earlier would be a solid choice.
http://www.audio-warehouse.com/web/mdl/BXI1606D/detail.asp
Care to move back into the mainstream products and take it from here?
Swez
big_bass_chase on 07/5/2007 21:32:13
Thanks for the links, and all the time you've spent on this project..I'll be sure to make a donation :)
This seems Like a safer road to take, so I think im going to go with the soundstream SPLX-152 with the 1 ohm stable Brutus Amp..I'll be sure to keep you posted on how everything works out next month when I get home..
I may need help on the dimesions of the enclosure later on ~
Until then, thanks for all the help buddy!
BBC
swez on 07/6/2007 23:10:53
Always glad to help a man in uniform who is serving our country. Just get home safe and we can pick things up when you get home. If you want some one on one coaching, that can be arranged via private e-mails.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 07/7/2007 12:14:53
Whoa, a change of name? Swez, can I set myself up with something a little more mature?
swez on 07/7/2007 16:25:00
Sure you can... Just like POwerLifter & BBC changed their handles, you can create a new profile and screen name too.
Keep it short OK?
A more mature name sounds good too. You have grown a lot since you first came here and why not reflect that in the new handle?
Swez
PS I have a small confession to make Shoot... when you first got here, I had a hard time relating to the communication style used. (Ghetto slang thrower stuff) But in time, I got over that and saw something much deeper emerging.
You came to learn and now a contributor toward helping others. That changed my impressions a lot and now value your comments and willingness to show others the way. I respect that!!! CLAP Keep up the good show... SMILE
big_bass_chase on 07/7/2007 22:33:25
Sounds good, If you have a myspace look me up and we'll go from there..
www.myspace.com/anthonysullivan
SQLThump on 07/8/2007 08:33:03
Just thought I would let it be known-
Shootuh Mcbustacap = SQLThump
I think its fitting, more mature, and demonstrated growth here at CK. Besides, I was beginning to think the old handle was getting a little hard for even me to take seroiusly............
jamesp on 07/8/2007 10:44:21
SQLThump, good move, keep up the good work.
big_bass_chase on 11/22/2007 15:44:23
Alright guys, i've been out of the scene for awhile but it seems as if my 15" kicker L7 is about to take its last breath..
If i play it at a reasonable level for about a 15 min. drive, I smell something similar to that of burning plastic.. I've checked all my wiring while playing songs and found no melting wires. The smell is coming from inside the ported box.
Im not sure if a coil is about to go bad or what, im sure its not the wiring though..
The sound hasnt changed much, even when it gets hot and i begin to smell it.. Still sounds good, Im just wondering if i should start looking for another sub..* A comparable one
big_bass_chase on 11/22/2007 15:48:39
*I never could find an audio shop with in SPL meter so see exactly how loud it really was, but i was completely happy with it.. It was a great choice, I just thought it would've lasted longer than what it has.. And no, it doesnt get everyday "abuse" lol
swez on 11/23/2007 07:11:28
If the sub still sounds good, it may just be something as simple as extra glue is burning off the voice coil bobbin. When we throw high wattage into a sub, there's a great deal of heat generated in the coil. That's normal, but most quality subs are well vented to keep things cool enough to prevent premature failures. (Due to excess heat)
You may want to pull the sub and give it a very careful visual inspection. Look for hot spots, (discoloration) in the spider and make sure all air vents are clear and free of any obstructions too. Also, have a close look at the wiring used. Look for signs of melting insulation on the wires and replace them as needed with larger gage wires. (Inside the box)
Finally, since this is a ported system, make sure to use a Subsonic Filter on the amp that is powering this sub. Knowing the actual tuning frequency of the port is difficult to detect w/o some specific tools. A decent SPL meter is cheap and is a very usable tool for diagnostics and troubleshooting. (Not just how much boom we get)
Radio Shack sells a useful SPL meter for under $50.00 and does a pretty good job up to its limits. (126 dB SPL) With a little math, we can "estimate" higher SPL values then the meter can actually read. Can give some details if you want to go this route.
Swez
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