Hey all,
I would like opinions and feedback on my proposed set-up.
I have a 2000 jeep wrangler
My set-up?
custom built sealed box from 33 Engineering.
1 cu ft will fit in/under rear seat Will accept 2 10" subs, downfiring.
Due to space limitations I'm looking at getting a pair of
RF Punch P3SD410 shallow-mount subs.
DVC 4ohm 300 w RMS 600w peak
For an Amp, I'm considering an Alpine PDX-1.600
Class D 600w x 1 @4/2 ohms
I was thinking the best wiring solution is to wire the VC's in series and the Sub's parallel.
What do you think
Replies (3)
swez on 06/24/2007 10:21:49
Welcome to CK! Am glad you came here to ask before buying proposed gear. Have some comments below to help you.
These subs are useful and come in 2+2 or 4+4 DVC's. I suggest you shoot for a pair of 2+2 DVC's as you can get a net 2 ohms and that good with most Class D amps out there today.
Also, these subs will work in sompact sealed box designs, but for the deeper bass requirements, a 0.7 ft^3/sub box would deliver better low bass performance.
As for the Alpine amp mentioned, one of our Pro Installers here have noted the PDX line is a bit more tempermental and has reported several field failures on this series. The Alpine MRP-M650 is a good choice here if you want to stick with Alpine and this amp series is reliable and well tested. (600 RMS @ 2 ohms) That's a perfect ohmic load match for a pair of 2+2 DVC's. (Wired in series/parallel as noted in your post)
At full power, this amp can draw up to ~55A's of current. This is common in all Class D's of this power range. Need to make sure your Jeep has enough reserve electrical power, (ALT/BAT) to manage this new gear w/o excessive light dimming or low voltage.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BdNd3T8lYt6/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&tab=essential_info&i=500MRPM650#Tab
This amp also notes it can use only #8 gage power and ground lines. If you plan to add a full range amp later, (To keep up w/ the extra bass) use a #4 gage wiring kit from BAT to a Distibution block that splits out fron #4 input to several #8 gage outputs. That makes adding a Mid/Highs amp easy and minimal voltage drops in the lines.
FYI: Even if you don't add another amp later, the #4 power feed will supply better power transfer to amps in this power range. (Less resistance per foot means lower voltage drops at the amp = better amp performance)
Comments?
Swez
rtkba on 06/24/2007 12:03:01
Thank you Swez for the help. I'll take your advice in regards to the amp and subs. I've all ready purchased my enclosure so I'm somewhat committed there. Appreciate the heads up on reserve electrical power issue. I definitely will up grade to an optima battery. I have doubts about my alternator (117 amp output). I think I'll try the system out and probably end up upgrading to a higher output alt as well.
As a side issue. Nothing against Crutchfield, they have great service. I found another vendor on-line whom seem to have considerably better prices:http://www.sonicelectronix.com/index.php Have you heard of them and if so do they seem reputable.
Thanks again
swez on 06/24/2007 13:36:15
Yes, I think you are wise to make a mid-course correction here.
Crutch is a great resource for product details and excellent customer service. They charge a bit more, but support the buyer in many ways, well above the competition.
Yes, am very familiar with Sonic... and they do offer very good prices on things they sell. However, the warrantee is an "in-house one" and not backed by a bonified, authorized I-sales site for most brands they offer. So we trade some level of support for a cheaper price. (Your call here)
Your present ALT is not bad since this vehicle does not have all the bells whistles that other cars/trucks have. A larger battery reserve and perhaps a big 3 wiring upgrade will be adequate. See link below regarding the Big 3 upgrade steps:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
As for bass output, should be OK in the 45-80 Hz range for bass. You may find the deep bass below 45 Hz., is a bit weak. Yes, much better than non-sub systems, but just light on deep bass is all.
You are most welcome and come back as needed for details on your install needs.
Swez
I would like opinions and feedback on my proposed set-up.
I have a 2000 jeep wrangler
My set-up?
custom built sealed box from 33 Engineering.
1 cu ft will fit in/under rear seat Will accept 2 10" subs, downfiring.
Due to space limitations I'm looking at getting a pair of
RF Punch P3SD410 shallow-mount subs.
DVC 4ohm 300 w RMS 600w peak
For an Amp, I'm considering an Alpine PDX-1.600
Class D 600w x 1 @4/2 ohms
I was thinking the best wiring solution is to wire the VC's in series and the Sub's parallel.
What do you think
Replies (3)
swez on 06/24/2007 10:21:49
Welcome to CK! Am glad you came here to ask before buying proposed gear. Have some comments below to help you.
These subs are useful and come in 2+2 or 4+4 DVC's. I suggest you shoot for a pair of 2+2 DVC's as you can get a net 2 ohms and that good with most Class D amps out there today.
Also, these subs will work in sompact sealed box designs, but for the deeper bass requirements, a 0.7 ft^3/sub box would deliver better low bass performance.
As for the Alpine amp mentioned, one of our Pro Installers here have noted the PDX line is a bit more tempermental and has reported several field failures on this series. The Alpine MRP-M650 is a good choice here if you want to stick with Alpine and this amp series is reliable and well tested. (600 RMS @ 2 ohms) That's a perfect ohmic load match for a pair of 2+2 DVC's. (Wired in series/parallel as noted in your post)
At full power, this amp can draw up to ~55A's of current. This is common in all Class D's of this power range. Need to make sure your Jeep has enough reserve electrical power, (ALT/BAT) to manage this new gear w/o excessive light dimming or low voltage.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-BdNd3T8lYt6/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&tab=essential_info&i=500MRPM650#Tab
This amp also notes it can use only #8 gage power and ground lines. If you plan to add a full range amp later, (To keep up w/ the extra bass) use a #4 gage wiring kit from BAT to a Distibution block that splits out fron #4 input to several #8 gage outputs. That makes adding a Mid/Highs amp easy and minimal voltage drops in the lines.
FYI: Even if you don't add another amp later, the #4 power feed will supply better power transfer to amps in this power range. (Less resistance per foot means lower voltage drops at the amp = better amp performance)
Comments?
Swez
rtkba on 06/24/2007 12:03:01
Thank you Swez for the help. I'll take your advice in regards to the amp and subs. I've all ready purchased my enclosure so I'm somewhat committed there. Appreciate the heads up on reserve electrical power issue. I definitely will up grade to an optima battery. I have doubts about my alternator (117 amp output). I think I'll try the system out and probably end up upgrading to a higher output alt as well.
As a side issue. Nothing against Crutchfield, they have great service. I found another vendor on-line whom seem to have considerably better prices:http://www.sonicelectronix.com/index.php Have you heard of them and if so do they seem reputable.
Thanks again
swez on 06/24/2007 13:36:15
Yes, I think you are wise to make a mid-course correction here.
Crutch is a great resource for product details and excellent customer service. They charge a bit more, but support the buyer in many ways, well above the competition.
Yes, am very familiar with Sonic... and they do offer very good prices on things they sell. However, the warrantee is an "in-house one" and not backed by a bonified, authorized I-sales site for most brands they offer. So we trade some level of support for a cheaper price. (Your call here)
Your present ALT is not bad since this vehicle does not have all the bells whistles that other cars/trucks have. A larger battery reserve and perhaps a big 3 wiring upgrade will be adequate. See link below regarding the Big 3 upgrade steps:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
As for bass output, should be OK in the 45-80 Hz range for bass. You may find the deep bass below 45 Hz., is a bit weak. Yes, much better than non-sub systems, but just light on deep bass is all.
You are most welcome and come back as needed for details on your install needs.
Swez
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