I have a JL12w3v2-d4 sub and want to add it to my current system.
I have an Alpine mrv-f340 amplifier running sony splits at the front and 6x9's at the rear. I want to take the 6x9's off the amp and put them onto the head unit, then bridge the amp and run the sub off it. (I'll run the 6x9's off the head unit)
What is the best way to link up the sub? In series or parallel? It says the amp runs 130w x2 bridged at 4ohm but the sub is 4ohm dvc. Not sure how to do it.
cheers
Replies (17)
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 09:31:31
Well, you are kind of in a picle here. A 4 ohm DVC sub can only be wired at 2 or 8 ohms. Running it 2 (Parrellal wiring config.) could damage your amp (good possibility) and running it at 8 ohms (wired in series)will probably cut your power in half.
Your best bet here would be to see if you can trade it in for a single 4 ohm sub, or a dual 2 ohm sub. The single coil is easy, go positive to positive and ground to groung from the amp to the sub. The 2 ohm DVC would need to be wired in series, with power to power on one coil, ground on the same coil to power on the next, and ground on the second coil to ground output on the amp.
Holden Commodore huh? I was jealous of those things for years until GM finally built the new Pontiac GTO. We don't get a spiffy 4 door sedan though.
Best of luck on your install.
swez on 06/17/2007 09:32:17
Here, you need to use the non-bridged method. One sub coil to channel 3. The other to channel 4 in stereo mode. That's the only safe and efficient way for this sub and amp pairing.
It would be good to consider a Class D MONO amp later, to power your sub properly.
Swez
PS It's been a while since you dropped in... welcome back!
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 09:38:46
Mornin' Swez! Guess I am not the only person alive at this point in the day!
I thought you couldn't wire coils in stereo like that. At least, I think that is what you and CplKittle said.
swez on 06/17/2007 13:11:57
Yes, it can be done on subs off a 4 channel as the amp power to each coil is controlled off its own gain levels. Also, bass is often the same on each track... so we don't get odd ball sound even when wiring in this manner.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 15:57:42
Right on, My bad Coach!!!
swez on 06/17/2007 16:35:23
Just trying to help ya give better advice in the future son...
Dad of CK
vtcommodore on 06/17/2007 22:07:53
Thanks Swez, I'll try that. It does mean I'll need to add another input to the sub enclosure though... doh. Just covered it last night..
Cheers guys
swez on 06/17/2007 23:05:03
Yes, this is true, but that's what is needed with this amp/sub wiring arrangement.
Swez
Victor on 06/18/2007 04:07:44
Daddy.... GRIN
swez on 06/18/2007 07:40:22
"Who's yo Daddy"? Very funny and kinda cute there Victor. Your timing is good and well taken... say Happy Father's Day to your Dad as we just celebrated this custom on Sunday in the USA.
Had a nice dinner out and a nice afternoon nap as well. Ahhhh, great way to spend a Sunday huh?
Swez HAPPY
vtcommodore on 06/26/2007 00:07:24
Hi Guys,
I've found that many websites advise not to connect dvc's in stereo. Can you check this site and perhaps put my mind at ease. I'm wanting to finish this project this weekend.
Cheers
vtcommodore on 06/26/2007 00:08:13
sorry... here's the site
http://www.members.shaw.ca/pferlow/1%20DVC.htm
swez on 06/26/2007 13:06:27
This may be true if the left and right channels have slight offsets in the power they can deliver to each coil.
The DVC subs are best wired from a MONO or A+B channel source. (amp) This is accomplished in 2 main ways:
1. Use a Class D mono amp of the proper power rating and the sub coil wiring impedance matches the amp use. (Typically 2-4 ohms, but some amps are well suited to 1 ohm loads when they specify 1 ohm stability)
2. Bridged 2 channel amps work fine at 4 ohm loads or higher. If we bridge and go below 4 ohms, this overheats the amp when we crank up the power. (This method is not efficient as you would need to bridge the rear channels and run the sub at 8 ohms) The power from the amp is cut in half when running an 8 ohm load. It's safe to do this, but power will be minimal to the sub wired @ 8 ohms.
The best option here, would be to add a Class D Mono amp for your sub only. This sub is good at 250 - 350 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. That's a modest power draw on the electricals and not a huge expense on the amp too. Alpine makes severral amps that would do the job.
The Alpine MRP-M450 would be a solid match for your sub.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M450
Although this amp is able to suppy up to 400 Wrms @ 2 ohms, some careful gain settings will make it possible to run the amp well below that number if your sub objects. A compact sealed enclosure will also help keep the sub in check. (Overexcursion issues)
There are other solid brand name amps to choose from too. Rockford, MTX, Kenwood, JBL, and Infinity to name a few.
The JBL Grand Touring Series GTO301.1 II amp is a safe bet here too. It's just under 300 Wrms @ 2 ohms.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XrjcI5ziJhU/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=109GTO3011 (for specs and details)
The Infinity Reference 1300a is also a good fit:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XrjcI5ziJhU/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=108R1300A
The MTX X Thunder 300XD is a very good fit. This is probably a best buy for power out VS current consumed:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XrjcI5ziJhU/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?
g=120&I=236300XD
Think about it as you have a quality sub that works best with a solid amp to power it.
Swez
vtcommodore on 07/1/2007 06:24:34
Thanks Swez, I've been looking around for a monoblock. I've found a Coustic c400 at JB hifi in Brisbane. Seriously considering it. Do you know anything about them? are they a good brand??
Cheers
swez on 07/1/2007 10:07:14
Coustic was bought out by Mitek and is now under the same corporate unbrella as MTX. Coustic used to make some very nice amps in their hayday, but since acquired by Mitek, I don't know what lines were kept and which were scrapped.
Do you have more details on this Coustic amp? I did find this:
http://12voltshop.eu/eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13770&language=en
This amp has good features and can deliver a solid 400 Wrms @ 2 ohm leads. That is about the max RMS power rating for your JL sub, 12W3V2-D4) as well. If you can get it at a fair price, it's a step in the right direction over your present amp. (Power, load and efficiency in power draw)
JL sub specs:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=12
Swez
vtcommodore on 07/1/2007 18:12:26
That's about as much as I could find on it as well. I'm able to pick it up for $271AUD so it's quite a good price I think.
I'll have a look elsewhere to see what else is available.
cheers
Gene
swez on 07/1/2007 20:12:47
Good product and if you find the right price, it's a solid fit.
Go for it or look at other options as needed,
Dave
I have an Alpine mrv-f340 amplifier running sony splits at the front and 6x9's at the rear. I want to take the 6x9's off the amp and put them onto the head unit, then bridge the amp and run the sub off it. (I'll run the 6x9's off the head unit)
What is the best way to link up the sub? In series or parallel? It says the amp runs 130w x2 bridged at 4ohm but the sub is 4ohm dvc. Not sure how to do it.
cheers
Replies (17)
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 09:31:31
Well, you are kind of in a picle here. A 4 ohm DVC sub can only be wired at 2 or 8 ohms. Running it 2 (Parrellal wiring config.) could damage your amp (good possibility) and running it at 8 ohms (wired in series)will probably cut your power in half.
Your best bet here would be to see if you can trade it in for a single 4 ohm sub, or a dual 2 ohm sub. The single coil is easy, go positive to positive and ground to groung from the amp to the sub. The 2 ohm DVC would need to be wired in series, with power to power on one coil, ground on the same coil to power on the next, and ground on the second coil to ground output on the amp.
Holden Commodore huh? I was jealous of those things for years until GM finally built the new Pontiac GTO. We don't get a spiffy 4 door sedan though.
Best of luck on your install.
swez on 06/17/2007 09:32:17
Here, you need to use the non-bridged method. One sub coil to channel 3. The other to channel 4 in stereo mode. That's the only safe and efficient way for this sub and amp pairing.
It would be good to consider a Class D MONO amp later, to power your sub properly.
Swez
PS It's been a while since you dropped in... welcome back!
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 09:38:46
Mornin' Swez! Guess I am not the only person alive at this point in the day!
I thought you couldn't wire coils in stereo like that. At least, I think that is what you and CplKittle said.
swez on 06/17/2007 13:11:57
Yes, it can be done on subs off a 4 channel as the amp power to each coil is controlled off its own gain levels. Also, bass is often the same on each track... so we don't get odd ball sound even when wiring in this manner.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 15:57:42
Right on, My bad Coach!!!
swez on 06/17/2007 16:35:23
Just trying to help ya give better advice in the future son...
Dad of CK
vtcommodore on 06/17/2007 22:07:53
Thanks Swez, I'll try that. It does mean I'll need to add another input to the sub enclosure though... doh. Just covered it last night..
Cheers guys
swez on 06/17/2007 23:05:03
Yes, this is true, but that's what is needed with this amp/sub wiring arrangement.
Swez
Victor on 06/18/2007 04:07:44
Daddy.... GRIN
swez on 06/18/2007 07:40:22
"Who's yo Daddy"? Very funny and kinda cute there Victor. Your timing is good and well taken... say Happy Father's Day to your Dad as we just celebrated this custom on Sunday in the USA.
Had a nice dinner out and a nice afternoon nap as well. Ahhhh, great way to spend a Sunday huh?
Swez HAPPY
vtcommodore on 06/26/2007 00:07:24
Hi Guys,
I've found that many websites advise not to connect dvc's in stereo. Can you check this site and perhaps put my mind at ease. I'm wanting to finish this project this weekend.
Cheers
vtcommodore on 06/26/2007 00:08:13
sorry... here's the site
http://www.members.shaw.ca/pferlow/1%20DVC.htm
swez on 06/26/2007 13:06:27
This may be true if the left and right channels have slight offsets in the power they can deliver to each coil.
The DVC subs are best wired from a MONO or A+B channel source. (amp) This is accomplished in 2 main ways:
1. Use a Class D mono amp of the proper power rating and the sub coil wiring impedance matches the amp use. (Typically 2-4 ohms, but some amps are well suited to 1 ohm loads when they specify 1 ohm stability)
2. Bridged 2 channel amps work fine at 4 ohm loads or higher. If we bridge and go below 4 ohms, this overheats the amp when we crank up the power. (This method is not efficient as you would need to bridge the rear channels and run the sub at 8 ohms) The power from the amp is cut in half when running an 8 ohm load. It's safe to do this, but power will be minimal to the sub wired @ 8 ohms.
The best option here, would be to add a Class D Mono amp for your sub only. This sub is good at 250 - 350 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. That's a modest power draw on the electricals and not a huge expense on the amp too. Alpine makes severral amps that would do the job.
The Alpine MRP-M450 would be a solid match for your sub.
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M450
Although this amp is able to suppy up to 400 Wrms @ 2 ohms, some careful gain settings will make it possible to run the amp well below that number if your sub objects. A compact sealed enclosure will also help keep the sub in check. (Overexcursion issues)
There are other solid brand name amps to choose from too. Rockford, MTX, Kenwood, JBL, and Infinity to name a few.
The JBL Grand Touring Series GTO301.1 II amp is a safe bet here too. It's just under 300 Wrms @ 2 ohms.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XrjcI5ziJhU/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=109GTO3011 (for specs and details)
The Infinity Reference 1300a is also a good fit:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XrjcI5ziJhU/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=120&I=108R1300A
The MTX X Thunder 300XD is a very good fit. This is probably a best buy for power out VS current consumed:
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-XrjcI5ziJhU/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?
g=120&I=236300XD
Think about it as you have a quality sub that works best with a solid amp to power it.
Swez
vtcommodore on 07/1/2007 06:24:34
Thanks Swez, I've been looking around for a monoblock. I've found a Coustic c400 at JB hifi in Brisbane. Seriously considering it. Do you know anything about them? are they a good brand??
Cheers
swez on 07/1/2007 10:07:14
Coustic was bought out by Mitek and is now under the same corporate unbrella as MTX. Coustic used to make some very nice amps in their hayday, but since acquired by Mitek, I don't know what lines were kept and which were scrapped.
Do you have more details on this Coustic amp? I did find this:
http://12voltshop.eu/eu/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=13770&language=en
This amp has good features and can deliver a solid 400 Wrms @ 2 ohm leads. That is about the max RMS power rating for your JL sub, 12W3V2-D4) as well. If you can get it at a fair price, it's a step in the right direction over your present amp. (Power, load and efficiency in power draw)
JL sub specs:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=12
Swez
vtcommodore on 07/1/2007 18:12:26
That's about as much as I could find on it as well. I'm able to pick it up for $271AUD so it's quite a good price I think.
I'll have a look elsewhere to see what else is available.
cheers
Gene
swez on 07/1/2007 20:12:47
Good product and if you find the right price, it's a solid fit.
Go for it or look at other options as needed,
Dave
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
