i was wondering if the gauge of a wire makes that much of a difference.. i just bought an mtx thunder TC4001 to power two 12" JBL GTO1202D.. it says on the amp to use a 4 gauge and i currently have it hooked up to a 10 gauge.. it doesnt sound that loud so far and im about to take it back but before i do i was wondering if that is just because of the size of the wire? srry for the noob question
Replies (32)
Bass_bass_10 on 06/16/2007 18:03:30
p.s. the speaker wire is reallllyyyy thin too n i duno if that makes a diff
kirchatndftbl on 06/16/2007 18:07:38
10 guage wire is usually used for speaker wire the smallest wire for amps should be 8 gauge
not enough power is probably being passed throught the 10guage wire
Bass_bass_10 on 06/16/2007 18:25:56
kk im guna pick up a 4 gauge amp kit 2morow and if it doesnt sound better ill take it back :P.. and your saying that the subs should be connected with sumthing more like a 10 or 12 gauge? cuz now they must be connected to like a fu*kin 22 gauge lmao there so small
30Hertz on 06/16/2007 20:27:43
I'm not familiar with the amp in question but regardless, it needs to be at LEAST an 8 gauge wire kit. 4 guage would prob be overkill for that particular amp but Overkill = good IMO. It leaves you room to work with for later installs.
Upgrade your wiring to the subwoofers with at least 12 gauge wiring. You can get by with less, but the current isnt going to pass as freely as it would with a larger gauge.
If your still having issues, you might need more power, or a new enclosure design.
Also, this is a PG site so please refrain from any foul language or abbreviations of such. We are here for you, but we need everyone to be clear and concise in their posts for ease of reading. Foul Language garbles it up and also isnt needed for information purposes GRIN.
Thanks!
COFFEE -30 COFFEE
swez on 06/17/2007 00:26:35
This amp would fine off a #8 gage power line and #12 gage speaker feed wires as noted by 30 Hz. The TC4001 is rated at 400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. It should be adequate to power your subs if they are wired correctly to this amp. (Net 2 ohm load) If the subs are not wired correctly, that may explain some the lack of punch.
These subs are rated at 300 RMS/ea. A better match for these subs, would be the TC6001. Here, you'll get 300/sub and yes... #4 gage is appropropriate for the amp you plan now and if you a full range amp later, you still have some breathing room. Same wiring needed here on the subs. (Net 2 ohms is best power for this amp)
Ditto on the "colorful language" here... pls edit.
Finally, you may need to adjust the amp gain to get the most from it. This is a simple matter and easily overlooked by many newbies. We can help there too.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 09:46:12
Good call on the overkill 30Hertz. I swear by always going a step up in wiring size on any amp. I run 8ga straight from mu H/U to my battery. I love overkill. At least with wiring............
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 13:19:17
its funny u mentioned the tc6001 because that was the one i was close to buying at first and then i had to factor in the new amp kit and had to go with the slightly lower one.. and i jus got back from bestbuy and the guy told me that i am actually running it in 4 ohm because i had it wired in series.. i bought 14 gauge speaker wire.. that was the best they had and i am going to re-wire the subs hopefully this solves the problem... >>>>but i also had another question for you guys... every once in a while my subs will make this loud deep bass even if the volume is barely up, its like a constant bass that lasts for about 10 seconds and has nothing to do with the song playing or anything even when i chnge songs the bass still continues throughout.. if anyone has ever heard of that or knows whats wrong please let me know
30Hertz on 06/17/2007 14:22:32
Check your gound on the amplifier. Make sure its grounded to a solid non-painted ground thats secured.
Also check your RCA's to make sure they have a good connection. If theres excessive wobble on the RCA terminal at the amplifier you may need to resolder the connection but I seriously doubt thats the issue.
Priority 1, check the grounds GRIN
-30
COFFEE
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 15:56:51
isnt there a bolt i can attach the ground wire to in the trunk, i just have the ground hooked up to a screw on the a part above the trunk but its kinda loose.. mybe thats the problem? even a little loose makes a diff?
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 16:05:20
Definitely a problem there boss. I suggest you reground that sucka with the quickness.....Try to use the shortest ground lead possible, and make sure it has a good tight connection, nobody wants a ground wire coming loose at a ness than desirable time.
Also, is this grounded to the trunklid?? Thats not a very good idea, as the connection to the body and frame of the car becomes pretty questionable.
The ground acts as part of the circuit, directing current bact to the battery. The worse the connection is, the worse the performance of the amp is due to resistance completing the circuit.
As 30Hertz said, make sure you get a good unpainted ground. That should fix your problem..... Also, regrounding it will definitely increase amp performance as well, in conjunction with the upgraded wire, that should work pretty nicely.
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:15:43
where do you have yours grounded to? lol i need to know as much as possible, its not connected to the trunk lid.. theres like a metal area right under the backwindow its hard to explain but ive heard people say that they connected theres to a bolt on the floor of the trunk? should i do that? srry for buggin u guys lol
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:16:27
n would just using a nail in screw be ok?
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:19:35
n when this wire comes loose ur sayin it makes that loud continues bass thing thats happening to me? like have u ever heard that happenening to anyone
swez on 06/17/2007 16:34:06
You are flirting with disaster having a poorly grounded amp. If the amp ground fails or is inadequate, the RCA's will provide some grounding back to the HU. This is very bad as the RCA's are not designed for that level of current flow. It can even damage your HU.
If you have a small hole in the trunk now, use a #10 - 14 x 1" long self tapping sheet metal screw as the fastener. Make sure it's to bare metal using a little sandpaper to remove paint ect. Also use a flat washer and the proper size crimp ring terminal for this grounding line.
Question to you... Do you have 1 or 2 of those GTO 1202D subs here?
It states 2 are used on your 1st post. Here, your wiring options are 1, 2 and 8 ohms only. You'll want 2 ohms on this amp. That is:
1. Each sub has coils wired in series = 4 ohms/sub
2. Both subs are now wired in parallel to amp = perfect 2 ohms
Like this:
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:39:41
yeah i have two... and i just finished re-wiring them the same way as that link u posted.. however the diagram confuses me a bit.. but i connected both positives from both subs and put them in and connected both neg. from the subs and put them in.. still doesnt sound that great but i am going to reground the wire right now and ill tell you how it works out
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 19:04:28
ding ding ding... wut i thought was a "good job" of sanding turns out was no where near enough.. so i scrubbed it with sand paper until my fingers hurt lmao.. now it bumppppsssssss...:D
swez on 06/17/2007 21:35:58
Yeah, especially above #180 grit paper, you'll be working hard to get the paint off all right. For a fast removal, #80 grit or lower will do the job fast.
Glad to hear you got your bass engine working properly. That ground problem you mentioned was a big concern as I read about the old setup. Our amps need proper grounds to work well. CLAP
Swez COFFEE
Victor on 06/18/2007 04:18:18
""""""""""""""""""""yeah i have two... and i just finished re-wiring them the same way as that link u posted.. however the diagram confuses me a bit.. but i connected both positives from both subs and put them in and connected both neg. from the subs and put them in.. still doesnt sound that great but i am going to reground the wire right now and ill tell you how it works out"""""""""""""""""
if you connected both the +ves on the subs to the amp +ves and both the -ves on the subs to the -ves on the amp.. then it means you have it wired parallel voice coil parallel subs....
to make the confused diagram a bit easy..
take sub 1 , and connect one of the -ves of the voice coil to the +ve of the other voice coil.. ( this is series wiring of the dual voice coil of the sub )( you can consider this as a single 4 ohm voice coil sub once this part is done )
take sub 2 and do the same..
then what you will have on sub 1 & 2 shall be... 2 unconnected terminals on each sub... a +ve and a -ve on each sub..( a +ve of one voice coil and -ve of the other )
take wires from the amp and connect the +ve to the +ve on sub 1 and +ve on subs 2 ( the unconnected +ve terminals on both subs )
and do the same with negetive...
( this is parallel wiring of the subs to the amp )
hence first a series wiring of the voice coil and then a parallel wiring of the subs..
2 ohm dvc subs when voice coil wired in series becomes a 2 + 2 = 4 ohm load
and when 2 x 4 ohm loads( subs) are wired in parallel to the amp it gives a net load of 2 ohms to the amplifier...
hope this helps...
Victor..
PS. try co-relating this with the picture and u will find it pretty easy to understand..
Bass_bass_10 on 06/25/2007 17:02:21
alrdy getting bored with this amp... i know its probably because i dont have a 4 gauge wire but this amp just doesnt seem to cut it.. so before the 30 day return expires im thinking of upgrading to a mtx TC6001 amp, but then again i dont think that will solve much of my problem until i get a thicker wire.. any suggestions?
p.s. it is wired right and grounded properly but i am just looking for more bass.. dont rlly hear it much outside of the car unless your in a house or sumthin :P
swez on 06/25/2007 22:22:49
Not hearing the bass much outside the car is really a plus. That means a tight car and all the bass is contained and not lost to outside the vehicle.
Frankly, there is little SPL difference between subs getting 400 Wrms vs 600 Wrms. (About +2 dB is all) However, in trunk mounted systems and no drop down seats or vents in the rear deck, much of the bass punch is trapped in a well sealed trunk. I did a small experiment when replacing the rear deck speakers. I left them out and tried the bass w/o the rear 6x9's installed. Hum, this brought a good deal more bass into the cabin area. When I installed new 6x9's in the rear, I lost that extra few dB of bass inside the car.
If I would have kept this car, (1990 Trofeo') a bit longer, was going to cut a hole in the "gangster lean" drop down arm rest in the rear seats and make a pass through vent there for more bass.
Chew on that a tad before you up the ante and use a larger sub amp. It may still be a good idea to use the TC6001, but maximize the bass you get into the cabin. Right now, much of it is trapped in a well-sealed trunk.
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 06/25/2007 23:07:01
thnx.. yeah i have one of those drop down arm rest things in the back and even putting the arm rest down i find gives it a lil more bass.. so im guna try cutting a little gap in it 2morrow :p ill keep u updated
swez on 06/25/2007 23:18:06
Good.... when you do this, pull your subs to the center of the trunk a bit as this allows more bass waves to travel behind the box and into the cabin. The larger the vent space you can make, the more bass energy you'll get inside the cabin.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 00:21:59
Did you rewire the amp/ground cable yet? I was not too clear on that. But if you haven't done that, any addition of power is going to be pointless, as you do not have the proper wire to move the current. 10 GA wire is for the smallest amps you can get.
Personally, I am with Swez too on the sound vent. It is the easiest and cheapest way by far to get some extra low end response. That is, if you have the tools and make it look pretty.
jamesp on 06/26/2007 09:50:18
Yep, using that 10AWG wire is like trying to fill an olympic swimming pool with a skinny drinking straw.....it aint gonna happen...it will evaporate faster than it will fill.....if the 10 ga. came in an import wiring kit..it probably isnt even a full 10 ga.
Bass_bass_10 on 06/26/2007 19:27:14
o i never thought of it like that.. i never thought the gauge wire was that important.. but if you guys say it will make a big difference then i will buy one for sure, that along with the sound vent and everything should be fine hopefully
Bass_bass_10 on 06/26/2007 19:35:03
p.s. the guy told me that this amp should be able to power these subs to full.. so if i get the 4 awg wire do you think i should still consider upgrading to the tc6001? or do i have enough power
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 21:22:16
Dude, do not spend a dollar on electronics until you upgrade to 4 gauge or better. You seem like the kind of person who likes to upgrade often, so an 0AWG kit with dual 4 gauge out of the distribution block would save the time and effort spent re-rewiring should you decide to go even bigger than this setup
Any money spent on any electronics without upgrading the 10 gauge would be like feeding hay to a dead horse. Look at power lines vs. a wall outlet. Wires on a power line are huge because they have a tone of power to move, and wall outlet wires are smaller beacuse they only need a little bit.
Check out the new wiring, and then see if you need a new amp. I seroiusly doubt you will.
Also, you may want to invest in some high quality RCA cables to improve signal to the amp. With all of this, you may get up to twice the quality of bass. Believe me bro, it makes a HUGE difference
Bass_bass_10 on 06/26/2007 21:24:48
thnx man..u guys r life savers :P
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 21:31:07
We try man, we try. Now go get that wiring on the double trooper!!!!!!
swez on 06/27/2007 10:18:08
Agreed! #10 wire is fine for small amps that draw under 30A's. When we look at wire length, the resistance per foot of small power cables can lead to notable voltage losses between the BAT and amp(s). If we lose 0.5 volts, (Or more) in that length, that is considered a problem and the amp performance will suffer.
Your TC4001 is not a bad match for the subs noted either. A little underpowered, but not unreasonably so. Making an air vent as mentioned earlier should help bring more bass SPL into the cabin of your car. The larger the vent, the more bass you'll get inside too.
What is the largest vent size you think you can get in the drop down arm rest back there? (H & W)
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 06/27/2007 18:14:05
the vent i can make 19cm(h) x 16cm(w) < u might have to convert that lol i live in canada ehhhh.. i could make it bigger if i like ripped the whole arm rest out lmao.. the amp is also underrated ^.. it says 400 rms but its acctually measured 467w rms on the certificate thing but ye still a little underpowered
swez on 06/27/2007 19:59:37
That would be 7.5" H, x 6.3" wide. Area = 304 cm^2 or 47.25" in^2
That might be enough to help ya out. I just made a cutout of that size on paper and this is not a bad place to start. That's about the size of a typical 6x9" oval in area. It would be nice if you had a bit more vent area, but worth a try.
Swez
Replies (32)
Bass_bass_10 on 06/16/2007 18:03:30
p.s. the speaker wire is reallllyyyy thin too n i duno if that makes a diff
kirchatndftbl on 06/16/2007 18:07:38
10 guage wire is usually used for speaker wire the smallest wire for amps should be 8 gauge
not enough power is probably being passed throught the 10guage wire
Bass_bass_10 on 06/16/2007 18:25:56
kk im guna pick up a 4 gauge amp kit 2morow and if it doesnt sound better ill take it back :P.. and your saying that the subs should be connected with sumthing more like a 10 or 12 gauge? cuz now they must be connected to like a fu*kin 22 gauge lmao there so small
30Hertz on 06/16/2007 20:27:43
I'm not familiar with the amp in question but regardless, it needs to be at LEAST an 8 gauge wire kit. 4 guage would prob be overkill for that particular amp but Overkill = good IMO. It leaves you room to work with for later installs.
Upgrade your wiring to the subwoofers with at least 12 gauge wiring. You can get by with less, but the current isnt going to pass as freely as it would with a larger gauge.
If your still having issues, you might need more power, or a new enclosure design.
Also, this is a PG site so please refrain from any foul language or abbreviations of such. We are here for you, but we need everyone to be clear and concise in their posts for ease of reading. Foul Language garbles it up and also isnt needed for information purposes GRIN.
Thanks!
COFFEE -30 COFFEE
swez on 06/17/2007 00:26:35
This amp would fine off a #8 gage power line and #12 gage speaker feed wires as noted by 30 Hz. The TC4001 is rated at 400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. It should be adequate to power your subs if they are wired correctly to this amp. (Net 2 ohm load) If the subs are not wired correctly, that may explain some the lack of punch.
These subs are rated at 300 RMS/ea. A better match for these subs, would be the TC6001. Here, you'll get 300/sub and yes... #4 gage is appropropriate for the amp you plan now and if you a full range amp later, you still have some breathing room. Same wiring needed here on the subs. (Net 2 ohms is best power for this amp)
Ditto on the "colorful language" here... pls edit.
Finally, you may need to adjust the amp gain to get the most from it. This is a simple matter and easily overlooked by many newbies. We can help there too.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 09:46:12
Good call on the overkill 30Hertz. I swear by always going a step up in wiring size on any amp. I run 8ga straight from mu H/U to my battery. I love overkill. At least with wiring............
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 13:19:17
its funny u mentioned the tc6001 because that was the one i was close to buying at first and then i had to factor in the new amp kit and had to go with the slightly lower one.. and i jus got back from bestbuy and the guy told me that i am actually running it in 4 ohm because i had it wired in series.. i bought 14 gauge speaker wire.. that was the best they had and i am going to re-wire the subs hopefully this solves the problem... >>>>but i also had another question for you guys... every once in a while my subs will make this loud deep bass even if the volume is barely up, its like a constant bass that lasts for about 10 seconds and has nothing to do with the song playing or anything even when i chnge songs the bass still continues throughout.. if anyone has ever heard of that or knows whats wrong please let me know
30Hertz on 06/17/2007 14:22:32
Check your gound on the amplifier. Make sure its grounded to a solid non-painted ground thats secured.
Also check your RCA's to make sure they have a good connection. If theres excessive wobble on the RCA terminal at the amplifier you may need to resolder the connection but I seriously doubt thats the issue.
Priority 1, check the grounds GRIN
-30
COFFEE
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 15:56:51
isnt there a bolt i can attach the ground wire to in the trunk, i just have the ground hooked up to a screw on the a part above the trunk but its kinda loose.. mybe thats the problem? even a little loose makes a diff?
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/17/2007 16:05:20
Definitely a problem there boss. I suggest you reground that sucka with the quickness.....Try to use the shortest ground lead possible, and make sure it has a good tight connection, nobody wants a ground wire coming loose at a ness than desirable time.
Also, is this grounded to the trunklid?? Thats not a very good idea, as the connection to the body and frame of the car becomes pretty questionable.
The ground acts as part of the circuit, directing current bact to the battery. The worse the connection is, the worse the performance of the amp is due to resistance completing the circuit.
As 30Hertz said, make sure you get a good unpainted ground. That should fix your problem..... Also, regrounding it will definitely increase amp performance as well, in conjunction with the upgraded wire, that should work pretty nicely.
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:15:43
where do you have yours grounded to? lol i need to know as much as possible, its not connected to the trunk lid.. theres like a metal area right under the backwindow its hard to explain but ive heard people say that they connected theres to a bolt on the floor of the trunk? should i do that? srry for buggin u guys lol
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:16:27
n would just using a nail in screw be ok?
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:19:35
n when this wire comes loose ur sayin it makes that loud continues bass thing thats happening to me? like have u ever heard that happenening to anyone
swez on 06/17/2007 16:34:06
You are flirting with disaster having a poorly grounded amp. If the amp ground fails or is inadequate, the RCA's will provide some grounding back to the HU. This is very bad as the RCA's are not designed for that level of current flow. It can even damage your HU.
If you have a small hole in the trunk now, use a #10 - 14 x 1" long self tapping sheet metal screw as the fastener. Make sure it's to bare metal using a little sandpaper to remove paint ect. Also use a flat washer and the proper size crimp ring terminal for this grounding line.
Question to you... Do you have 1 or 2 of those GTO 1202D subs here?
It states 2 are used on your 1st post. Here, your wiring options are 1, 2 and 8 ohms only. You'll want 2 ohms on this amp. That is:
1. Each sub has coils wired in series = 4 ohms/sub
2. Both subs are now wired in parallel to amp = perfect 2 ohms
Like this:
http://img8.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 16:39:41
yeah i have two... and i just finished re-wiring them the same way as that link u posted.. however the diagram confuses me a bit.. but i connected both positives from both subs and put them in and connected both neg. from the subs and put them in.. still doesnt sound that great but i am going to reground the wire right now and ill tell you how it works out
Bass_bass_10 on 06/17/2007 19:04:28
ding ding ding... wut i thought was a "good job" of sanding turns out was no where near enough.. so i scrubbed it with sand paper until my fingers hurt lmao.. now it bumppppsssssss...:D
swez on 06/17/2007 21:35:58
Yeah, especially above #180 grit paper, you'll be working hard to get the paint off all right. For a fast removal, #80 grit or lower will do the job fast.
Glad to hear you got your bass engine working properly. That ground problem you mentioned was a big concern as I read about the old setup. Our amps need proper grounds to work well. CLAP
Swez COFFEE
Victor on 06/18/2007 04:18:18
""""""""""""""""""""yeah i have two... and i just finished re-wiring them the same way as that link u posted.. however the diagram confuses me a bit.. but i connected both positives from both subs and put them in and connected both neg. from the subs and put them in.. still doesnt sound that great but i am going to reground the wire right now and ill tell you how it works out"""""""""""""""""
if you connected both the +ves on the subs to the amp +ves and both the -ves on the subs to the -ves on the amp.. then it means you have it wired parallel voice coil parallel subs....
to make the confused diagram a bit easy..
take sub 1 , and connect one of the -ves of the voice coil to the +ve of the other voice coil.. ( this is series wiring of the dual voice coil of the sub )( you can consider this as a single 4 ohm voice coil sub once this part is done )
take sub 2 and do the same..
then what you will have on sub 1 & 2 shall be... 2 unconnected terminals on each sub... a +ve and a -ve on each sub..( a +ve of one voice coil and -ve of the other )
take wires from the amp and connect the +ve to the +ve on sub 1 and +ve on subs 2 ( the unconnected +ve terminals on both subs )
and do the same with negetive...
( this is parallel wiring of the subs to the amp )
hence first a series wiring of the voice coil and then a parallel wiring of the subs..
2 ohm dvc subs when voice coil wired in series becomes a 2 + 2 = 4 ohm load
and when 2 x 4 ohm loads( subs) are wired in parallel to the amp it gives a net load of 2 ohms to the amplifier...
hope this helps...
Victor..
PS. try co-relating this with the picture and u will find it pretty easy to understand..
Bass_bass_10 on 06/25/2007 17:02:21
alrdy getting bored with this amp... i know its probably because i dont have a 4 gauge wire but this amp just doesnt seem to cut it.. so before the 30 day return expires im thinking of upgrading to a mtx TC6001 amp, but then again i dont think that will solve much of my problem until i get a thicker wire.. any suggestions?
p.s. it is wired right and grounded properly but i am just looking for more bass.. dont rlly hear it much outside of the car unless your in a house or sumthin :P
swez on 06/25/2007 22:22:49
Not hearing the bass much outside the car is really a plus. That means a tight car and all the bass is contained and not lost to outside the vehicle.
Frankly, there is little SPL difference between subs getting 400 Wrms vs 600 Wrms. (About +2 dB is all) However, in trunk mounted systems and no drop down seats or vents in the rear deck, much of the bass punch is trapped in a well sealed trunk. I did a small experiment when replacing the rear deck speakers. I left them out and tried the bass w/o the rear 6x9's installed. Hum, this brought a good deal more bass into the cabin area. When I installed new 6x9's in the rear, I lost that extra few dB of bass inside the car.
If I would have kept this car, (1990 Trofeo') a bit longer, was going to cut a hole in the "gangster lean" drop down arm rest in the rear seats and make a pass through vent there for more bass.
Chew on that a tad before you up the ante and use a larger sub amp. It may still be a good idea to use the TC6001, but maximize the bass you get into the cabin. Right now, much of it is trapped in a well-sealed trunk.
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 06/25/2007 23:07:01
thnx.. yeah i have one of those drop down arm rest things in the back and even putting the arm rest down i find gives it a lil more bass.. so im guna try cutting a little gap in it 2morrow :p ill keep u updated
swez on 06/25/2007 23:18:06
Good.... when you do this, pull your subs to the center of the trunk a bit as this allows more bass waves to travel behind the box and into the cabin. The larger the vent space you can make, the more bass energy you'll get inside the cabin.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 00:21:59
Did you rewire the amp/ground cable yet? I was not too clear on that. But if you haven't done that, any addition of power is going to be pointless, as you do not have the proper wire to move the current. 10 GA wire is for the smallest amps you can get.
Personally, I am with Swez too on the sound vent. It is the easiest and cheapest way by far to get some extra low end response. That is, if you have the tools and make it look pretty.
jamesp on 06/26/2007 09:50:18
Yep, using that 10AWG wire is like trying to fill an olympic swimming pool with a skinny drinking straw.....it aint gonna happen...it will evaporate faster than it will fill.....if the 10 ga. came in an import wiring kit..it probably isnt even a full 10 ga.
Bass_bass_10 on 06/26/2007 19:27:14
o i never thought of it like that.. i never thought the gauge wire was that important.. but if you guys say it will make a big difference then i will buy one for sure, that along with the sound vent and everything should be fine hopefully
Bass_bass_10 on 06/26/2007 19:35:03
p.s. the guy told me that this amp should be able to power these subs to full.. so if i get the 4 awg wire do you think i should still consider upgrading to the tc6001? or do i have enough power
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 21:22:16
Dude, do not spend a dollar on electronics until you upgrade to 4 gauge or better. You seem like the kind of person who likes to upgrade often, so an 0AWG kit with dual 4 gauge out of the distribution block would save the time and effort spent re-rewiring should you decide to go even bigger than this setup
Any money spent on any electronics without upgrading the 10 gauge would be like feeding hay to a dead horse. Look at power lines vs. a wall outlet. Wires on a power line are huge because they have a tone of power to move, and wall outlet wires are smaller beacuse they only need a little bit.
Check out the new wiring, and then see if you need a new amp. I seroiusly doubt you will.
Also, you may want to invest in some high quality RCA cables to improve signal to the amp. With all of this, you may get up to twice the quality of bass. Believe me bro, it makes a HUGE difference
Bass_bass_10 on 06/26/2007 21:24:48
thnx man..u guys r life savers :P
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/26/2007 21:31:07
We try man, we try. Now go get that wiring on the double trooper!!!!!!
swez on 06/27/2007 10:18:08
Agreed! #10 wire is fine for small amps that draw under 30A's. When we look at wire length, the resistance per foot of small power cables can lead to notable voltage losses between the BAT and amp(s). If we lose 0.5 volts, (Or more) in that length, that is considered a problem and the amp performance will suffer.
Your TC4001 is not a bad match for the subs noted either. A little underpowered, but not unreasonably so. Making an air vent as mentioned earlier should help bring more bass SPL into the cabin of your car. The larger the vent, the more bass you'll get inside too.
What is the largest vent size you think you can get in the drop down arm rest back there? (H & W)
Swez
Bass_bass_10 on 06/27/2007 18:14:05
the vent i can make 19cm(h) x 16cm(w) < u might have to convert that lol i live in canada ehhhh.. i could make it bigger if i like ripped the whole arm rest out lmao.. the amp is also underrated ^.. it says 400 rms but its acctually measured 467w rms on the certificate thing but ye still a little underpowered
swez on 06/27/2007 19:59:37
That would be 7.5" H, x 6.3" wide. Area = 304 cm^2 or 47.25" in^2
That might be enough to help ya out. I just made a cutout of that size on paper and this is not a bad place to start. That's about the size of a typical 6x9" oval in area. It would be nice if you had a bit more vent area, but worth a try.
Swez
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