I've been told over and over that the more cone space you have moving the louder it will be
So my question is: on my 4 channel amp (can be bridged for 2 high output channels) should i have 2 subs or 4 equal subs going?
Replies (28)
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 03:48:59
another question that has been bothering me is that the car i drive does not have ti many options when it comes to charging systems, so should i try to install another stock alt. or is there a high output alt. for my car?
swez on 06/11/2007 10:18:06
Bass energy is comprised of two key elements:
1. Cone area: (Sd is the spec that tells the effective radiation area of a speaker cone)
2. Power that the voice coils can handle
The finer details are matching the subs with an enclosure that suits the woofers well. One can used SEALED, PORTED or BANDPASS enclosures, depending on the sub specs.
In many cases, fewer subs and more power to each sub used is a very good option. Can you give details on the amp and subs you have in mind for this install? (Make and model #'s)
About the charging system, do you know the stock ALT output ratings for this car? That vintage of car may have used the MOPAR Lean Burn engine control module pack. (It did not work very well either) If I recall rightly, the engine could be a 318, 389 or 400 CID version. The larger the engine and more electronic gizzmos on this car, the larger the ALT package would have been.
Have you had the electrical system checked out lately for general performance? Most good autoparts stores can test your ALT/BAT for voltage and current output and tell you what the numbers are as they run the test at idle and say 2,500 RPM.
Say more please about your install intentions and we'll try to advise you of usable options.
Swez
gearhead on 06/11/2007 10:54:40
An '86 New Yorker is a derivative of the K car. It's got either a 2.2 or 2.5 engine. If I'm not mistaken, the highest amperage stock alternator available was 105A.
swez on 06/11/2007 11:29:36
Ahhh, the shaved down version here.... was thinking the mid-70's models like the New Yorker and Newport. My mistake... M I Bad?
Swez
PS Thanks for clarifying there GH! CLAP
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 13:06:19
my car has the 2.2 engine and the alt. is 78 amps
as for how much electrical stuff has in there for its day this car had all the bells and whistles digital displays and everything
the amp is a clarion apx 400.4 and I am shopping for the subs
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 13:22:54
I like that amp but after reading other articles on the site i think i should look for a more powerful amp in any case
so ill probably use the clarion for my alpine type s 5" by 7" s
what should i be looking for in a powerful amp and subs
(i lose a lot of bass in the trunk of my car)
some one said i should get 2 L7 15" solo barics from kicker but i do not want a system powerful enough to drain my battery and power cap in a few hits
swez on 06/11/2007 14:19:14
This amp is pretty old I take it? If this amp is RMS rated at 100 x 4, it's pretty strong and can power speakers, subs or both. However, since it's a Class A/B amp, not very efficient for subs and will draw a lot of current at full power.
Do you know the fuse values used in this amp? I would expect 3 x 25 or 2 x 30 Amp fuses in this one.
Once that is determined, then we can help you with sub options. I would not recommend the L5 or L7 Solobarics here as they need a huge ported/vented box and loads of power that your electrical cannot handle w/o very expensive upgrades. A single Solo needs between 750-1000 RMS per sub. That's about 80 amperes per sub amp and well past the limits you have now. If you went that route, expect at least $500.00 in power upgrades.
Yes, a "Big 3" wiring upgrade is in order here and probably a very strong battery too. (800-1000 CCA rated) You'll need 1/0 power line from the BAT to amps used and this car will rattle worse than an empty gravel hauler on Washboard Blvd.
Better think this over very carefully as you go and don't make any additional buying decisions unless you run it by our SPL experts here at CK or other reputable forums.
Swez
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 14:36:21
the amp is an older model my friend gave it to my to start my system off
the fuse value is one 40 fuse
i am already making some plans for the big 3 upgrade but after looking at the options for my tank of a car i am considering to buy a new car with better audio options
what should should i be looking for??
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 14:42:18
i just checked the specs for the amp it is 190x2 or 50x4
swez on 06/11/2007 17:28:18
Whew... that's more like it for power consumption and a good fit for your 5x7 speakers too.
As for subs and amp, what sort of budget numbers are we looking at here? No sense showing you an $800.00 bass kit if you don't intend to spend that kind of dough.
Tech Tip: Since this is a trunk mounted sub, consider adding a vent opening in the rear deck. This will allow bass from the truck to flow freely into th cabin of the car. You'll have to climb into the trunk and look up at the rear deck and see of there is a place where you can make say a 10" x 10" cutout and then finish it off nice with a capping style grill cover.
This is a very good way to get very good bass into the cabin and not need so much sub power to get some nice bump too. If the rear seat has one of those flip out armrests in the middle of the back seat, that too is a good option.
Comments?
Swez
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 18:01:19
the budget depends if i am getting a new car or sticking with this one
the old owner mistreated this car badly
i've had for about one year now and since then i have to replace the battery, tires, steering column,voltage regulator, and several of the engine's belts and i have had to have it towed three times :(
the budget with this car is about $400-$500 cause this car isn't worth the extra money to add a security system too
if i get a nicer car i will be planning to spend about $1000-$1200 on it including a decent security system
the only redeeming factor about this car is that is turbo charged
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 23:57:04
i got a question for you swez
what car would have better sound options a honda civic or a hyundai tiburon?
gearhead on 06/12/2007 00:58:12
gudoxa
If you're having "issues" with your New Yorker, or just want to find good info for your MOPAR, you might want to take a look at this site- www.allpar.com
gudoxa on 06/12/2007 02:26:29
Thanks for the link gearhead
gudoxa on 06/12/2007 03:52:55
that link had a lot of good info
tomorrow i have to use some of the info from that site to find out why the power loss sign is on all the time(it has been on since i bought the car)
no mechanic that i talked was worried about it but none of them knew what it meant or how to find out what it meant
lol
swez on 06/12/2007 09:31:52
Both are very good cars. The Honda has a great track record for reliability and known as a gas sipper with some punch when one needs it.
The Hyundai is a sharp looking coupe or sedan and you can get a gas sipping 4 cyl or the poten V-6. Hyundai has one of the best bumper to bumper warranties in the business too.
As for sound, hatchbacks offer a nice amount of bass with minimal powered subs. If you go with a sedan, a model that has flip down seats is a real plus for bass.
Frankly, you are on the horns of a dilema... drive that old MOPAR till the wheels fall off and just make do for now, or buy a realiable car that will last over 200,000 miles with minimal fixing.
If it were me, I'd be looking for a more reliable car and you can still use the gear you have or install in this K Car, strip it later and transfer the good stuff to your new ride later.
In that era, Chrysler products were not known for reliability and longevity. They have a better line up now, but if you read the car rags, D/C is still haunted by poor engineering problems and quirky issues in the electronics aspects of the newer cars too. (So whatelse is new?)
Swez
gudoxa on 06/13/2007 01:04:08
ya the biggest problems i have had with this car has been electrical which is frustrating cause it pulls back the performance of my audio gear
i went and had my car's alt tested today and the stores tester said that the alt is on the verge of dieing(i am not surprised i do not think it has been touched in the last 10 years)
my friend who is selling the hyundai is including as part of the sell a kick ass sound system (he knows the right people at the best local car audio shop) he said it will be overkill in what i was looking for in a sound system
this friend of mine is who got me interested in car audio and taught me 75% of what i know about car audio
swez on 06/13/2007 11:44:17
Not too surpirsed to hear the old ALT is on its last legs and adding a large amping system to this car will kill it for sure.
Yes, you can have it rebuilt and perhaps juiced to deliver maybe 150A's at full power, but that will set ya back about $150.00 or more. In many situations, a quality rebuilder can add high power diodes, beefier brushes, a beffier armature and voltage/current regulator in the same casing. (But not always)
Better think this over as this is not a cheap fix on a car that is well past its prime. If you planned on restoring this car to original showroom levels, parts will be hard to come by and this was not one of Chrysler's finest cars either. Reliability on the electronics package were iffy at best and then one has to consider the Turbo feature as well. These are not cheap to replace either.
If it were me, I'd opt for a better car like the Hyundai or Civic.
Swez
gearhead on 06/13/2007 13:31:03
I'll beg to differ with you on your assessment of the K-car Swez.
#1-- Parts are readily available and very reasonably priced. I still get many of my parts from the dealer.
#2- As far as reliability, my wife drives an'86 Aries 4dr (30mpg) over 500mi per wk., to and from work. I routinely drive my '86 Aries wagon (24mpg) on trips of over 2000mi. (round trip). My 87 Horizon(32mpg) has over 235,000mi on it with NO major repairs. The '86 4dr has over 300,000mi on it, the wagon has over 180,000mi. on it. I've got a friend that uses his '86 Daytona as his "work" car. He conducts training seminars all over the east coast and thinks nothing of driving 1800mi in a week. His engine has never been rebuilt, uses less than a qt of oil between 3500mi. oil change intervals, and he's getting 34-40mpg.
#3- I've NEVER had any major problems with the electrical system on ANY of my K-car based vehicles. I've hed very few minor problems either. The '86 4dr has been running a 4ch amp (70w/ch@4ohm) for 3yrs now with the stock alternator. It has A/C that is used from about late Feb to early Nov.. No problems.
#4- The turbo 2.2/2.5's are some of the MOST reliable automotive turbo engines EVER made. Reman turbos are plentiful, and again, very reasonably priced. The site I provided above has many members with over 200,000mi on their turbo engines without a rebuild.
The only things "wrong" with K-cars is that they were/are boxy, unsexy, pizazzless, utilitarian vehicles that have a low "book" value. They're pretty hard to beat for affordable reliable transportation though.
gudoxa on 06/13/2007 14:26:10
i just talked to the previous owner and he used mechanics straight from school cause they when where cheaper
he had work done on the electrical systems which explains why it looks like i could have wired it better
plus i think my car has just developed a boost leak
(>.<)
gudoxa on 06/13/2007 14:31:56
though all the research i have done on my car suggests my car is reliable
the previous owner just beat it to death :(
swez on 06/13/2007 18:24:18
Thanks for the input GH. A few of my buddies had K-cars of that vintage and had many issues with them as well. Some were poor maint issues while others were just driving them pretty hard.
Sounds like you have had very good experiences with Mopar products. My Dad was a Mopar diehard fan too. That changed when he got a Town N Country Wagon and a Chrysler Lean Burn 400 series Newport? (Circa mid-1970's) Both vehicles never ran right and the Lean Burn computer module was replaced 3 times before he finally offed that car. (2 lemons at the same time?)
Prior to that, the 318, 360 and 383 engines were great on other cars he had owned pre-1972. The 383 was a strong engine in a large Newport sedan. (1966 I believe) That was one big and heavy car. But it ran great for many years.
Anyway, am glad some folks have very good experiences with the mid 80's K-series cars. Our family cars were fine until the mid-70's models came out. I'll take your word on the matter. The 80's models may have improved a lot. (GH's info proves that too) I can accept that... no problemos amigo.
As I recall, many mid/late 70's vintage cars were plagued with performance problems when the new EPA emmission standards came in. It seems to me that many cars of that era were de-tuned for lower HP and better MPG and emmissions requirements. (Unleaded fuels introduced in the US about 1976)
In the late 60's and early 70's we had some great "Muscle Cars" coming out of Detroit. After about 1973, that changed a lot. Then came the 80's and forward. Things got a lot better. So much for car history.
Swez
gearhead on 06/13/2007 21:00:23
Yeah, I'll admit Chrysler's LeanBurn system was horrendous. But it was also extremely easy (and cheap) to "retrofit" to pre LeanBurn specs. By the mid 80's Chrysler really had their electronics together IMO. No special reader/code retriever needed to get the trouble codes, all you needed to do was turn the ignition key on-off-on-off-on-off-on and poof, it spits the codes at you.
swez on 06/13/2007 21:11:59
Yeah, after the 3rd module was intalled and eventually failed, we did a retrofit/bypass kit and the problems went away. That was when Dad said it's time to off this car and cut his losses in good concience. He bought a Chrysler shop manual for this one and we looked long and hard for ways to bypass or optimize the best we could. It helped, but even the dealerships were of little help. Our best info came from the local autoparts dealers who knew the fixes well.
I helped him tweak and such, but we did not have the Internet back then to guide us to a workable solution. But after talking to a few factory reps, techs and a few good autoparts guys, it was the most viable solution. Retrofit and just sell the car was the best advice we got.
He did lay hands on a Cordoba after this fiasco and that car was a nice change for the better. That was a sweet ride in its day.
Swez
gearhead on 06/13/2007 22:00:02
Did it have the "Rich Corinthian Leather"? GRIN
swez on 06/14/2007 03:57:17
Of coarse it did Ricardo! SMILE I though he said..."Fine Corinthian Leather"? But then again, my mind ain't what it used to be either.
Has anyone seen my mind lately? I seem to have misplaced parts of it and things are not working out as well as they used to. Don't let your body go past 40. Wierd things happen shortly past that age and "senior moments" are just around the corner. GRIN
Swez
jamesp on 06/14/2007 07:45:45
Boys, boys, I consulted with Tattoo and found the true nature of the covering used on the seating surfaces. "Crushed Corinthian Leather"
Got to go, Tattoo and I are going to do some plane spotting. "Boss, the plane, the plane."
swez on 06/14/2007 09:57:58
It sure is great to have a few guys on this forum that were around in the "good ol days".
You're right, Tattoo is a reliable source... good call Jimmy! GRIN
Swez
So my question is: on my 4 channel amp (can be bridged for 2 high output channels) should i have 2 subs or 4 equal subs going?
Replies (28)
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 03:48:59
another question that has been bothering me is that the car i drive does not have ti many options when it comes to charging systems, so should i try to install another stock alt. or is there a high output alt. for my car?
swez on 06/11/2007 10:18:06
Bass energy is comprised of two key elements:
1. Cone area: (Sd is the spec that tells the effective radiation area of a speaker cone)
2. Power that the voice coils can handle
The finer details are matching the subs with an enclosure that suits the woofers well. One can used SEALED, PORTED or BANDPASS enclosures, depending on the sub specs.
In many cases, fewer subs and more power to each sub used is a very good option. Can you give details on the amp and subs you have in mind for this install? (Make and model #'s)
About the charging system, do you know the stock ALT output ratings for this car? That vintage of car may have used the MOPAR Lean Burn engine control module pack. (It did not work very well either) If I recall rightly, the engine could be a 318, 389 or 400 CID version. The larger the engine and more electronic gizzmos on this car, the larger the ALT package would have been.
Have you had the electrical system checked out lately for general performance? Most good autoparts stores can test your ALT/BAT for voltage and current output and tell you what the numbers are as they run the test at idle and say 2,500 RPM.
Say more please about your install intentions and we'll try to advise you of usable options.
Swez
gearhead on 06/11/2007 10:54:40
An '86 New Yorker is a derivative of the K car. It's got either a 2.2 or 2.5 engine. If I'm not mistaken, the highest amperage stock alternator available was 105A.
swez on 06/11/2007 11:29:36
Ahhh, the shaved down version here.... was thinking the mid-70's models like the New Yorker and Newport. My mistake... M I Bad?
Swez
PS Thanks for clarifying there GH! CLAP
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 13:06:19
my car has the 2.2 engine and the alt. is 78 amps
as for how much electrical stuff has in there for its day this car had all the bells and whistles digital displays and everything
the amp is a clarion apx 400.4 and I am shopping for the subs
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 13:22:54
I like that amp but after reading other articles on the site i think i should look for a more powerful amp in any case
so ill probably use the clarion for my alpine type s 5" by 7" s
what should i be looking for in a powerful amp and subs
(i lose a lot of bass in the trunk of my car)
some one said i should get 2 L7 15" solo barics from kicker but i do not want a system powerful enough to drain my battery and power cap in a few hits
swez on 06/11/2007 14:19:14
This amp is pretty old I take it? If this amp is RMS rated at 100 x 4, it's pretty strong and can power speakers, subs or both. However, since it's a Class A/B amp, not very efficient for subs and will draw a lot of current at full power.
Do you know the fuse values used in this amp? I would expect 3 x 25 or 2 x 30 Amp fuses in this one.
Once that is determined, then we can help you with sub options. I would not recommend the L5 or L7 Solobarics here as they need a huge ported/vented box and loads of power that your electrical cannot handle w/o very expensive upgrades. A single Solo needs between 750-1000 RMS per sub. That's about 80 amperes per sub amp and well past the limits you have now. If you went that route, expect at least $500.00 in power upgrades.
Yes, a "Big 3" wiring upgrade is in order here and probably a very strong battery too. (800-1000 CCA rated) You'll need 1/0 power line from the BAT to amps used and this car will rattle worse than an empty gravel hauler on Washboard Blvd.
Better think this over very carefully as you go and don't make any additional buying decisions unless you run it by our SPL experts here at CK or other reputable forums.
Swez
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 14:36:21
the amp is an older model my friend gave it to my to start my system off
the fuse value is one 40 fuse
i am already making some plans for the big 3 upgrade but after looking at the options for my tank of a car i am considering to buy a new car with better audio options
what should should i be looking for??
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 14:42:18
i just checked the specs for the amp it is 190x2 or 50x4
swez on 06/11/2007 17:28:18
Whew... that's more like it for power consumption and a good fit for your 5x7 speakers too.
As for subs and amp, what sort of budget numbers are we looking at here? No sense showing you an $800.00 bass kit if you don't intend to spend that kind of dough.
Tech Tip: Since this is a trunk mounted sub, consider adding a vent opening in the rear deck. This will allow bass from the truck to flow freely into th cabin of the car. You'll have to climb into the trunk and look up at the rear deck and see of there is a place where you can make say a 10" x 10" cutout and then finish it off nice with a capping style grill cover.
This is a very good way to get very good bass into the cabin and not need so much sub power to get some nice bump too. If the rear seat has one of those flip out armrests in the middle of the back seat, that too is a good option.
Comments?
Swez
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 18:01:19
the budget depends if i am getting a new car or sticking with this one
the old owner mistreated this car badly
i've had for about one year now and since then i have to replace the battery, tires, steering column,voltage regulator, and several of the engine's belts and i have had to have it towed three times :(
the budget with this car is about $400-$500 cause this car isn't worth the extra money to add a security system too
if i get a nicer car i will be planning to spend about $1000-$1200 on it including a decent security system
the only redeeming factor about this car is that is turbo charged
gudoxa on 06/11/2007 23:57:04
i got a question for you swez
what car would have better sound options a honda civic or a hyundai tiburon?
gearhead on 06/12/2007 00:58:12
gudoxa
If you're having "issues" with your New Yorker, or just want to find good info for your MOPAR, you might want to take a look at this site- www.allpar.com
gudoxa on 06/12/2007 02:26:29
Thanks for the link gearhead
gudoxa on 06/12/2007 03:52:55
that link had a lot of good info
tomorrow i have to use some of the info from that site to find out why the power loss sign is on all the time(it has been on since i bought the car)
no mechanic that i talked was worried about it but none of them knew what it meant or how to find out what it meant
lol
swez on 06/12/2007 09:31:52
Both are very good cars. The Honda has a great track record for reliability and known as a gas sipper with some punch when one needs it.
The Hyundai is a sharp looking coupe or sedan and you can get a gas sipping 4 cyl or the poten V-6. Hyundai has one of the best bumper to bumper warranties in the business too.
As for sound, hatchbacks offer a nice amount of bass with minimal powered subs. If you go with a sedan, a model that has flip down seats is a real plus for bass.
Frankly, you are on the horns of a dilema... drive that old MOPAR till the wheels fall off and just make do for now, or buy a realiable car that will last over 200,000 miles with minimal fixing.
If it were me, I'd be looking for a more reliable car and you can still use the gear you have or install in this K Car, strip it later and transfer the good stuff to your new ride later.
In that era, Chrysler products were not known for reliability and longevity. They have a better line up now, but if you read the car rags, D/C is still haunted by poor engineering problems and quirky issues in the electronics aspects of the newer cars too. (So whatelse is new?)
Swez
gudoxa on 06/13/2007 01:04:08
ya the biggest problems i have had with this car has been electrical which is frustrating cause it pulls back the performance of my audio gear
i went and had my car's alt tested today and the stores tester said that the alt is on the verge of dieing(i am not surprised i do not think it has been touched in the last 10 years)
my friend who is selling the hyundai is including as part of the sell a kick ass sound system (he knows the right people at the best local car audio shop) he said it will be overkill in what i was looking for in a sound system
this friend of mine is who got me interested in car audio and taught me 75% of what i know about car audio
swez on 06/13/2007 11:44:17
Not too surpirsed to hear the old ALT is on its last legs and adding a large amping system to this car will kill it for sure.
Yes, you can have it rebuilt and perhaps juiced to deliver maybe 150A's at full power, but that will set ya back about $150.00 or more. In many situations, a quality rebuilder can add high power diodes, beefier brushes, a beffier armature and voltage/current regulator in the same casing. (But not always)
Better think this over as this is not a cheap fix on a car that is well past its prime. If you planned on restoring this car to original showroom levels, parts will be hard to come by and this was not one of Chrysler's finest cars either. Reliability on the electronics package were iffy at best and then one has to consider the Turbo feature as well. These are not cheap to replace either.
If it were me, I'd opt for a better car like the Hyundai or Civic.
Swez
gearhead on 06/13/2007 13:31:03
I'll beg to differ with you on your assessment of the K-car Swez.
#1-- Parts are readily available and very reasonably priced. I still get many of my parts from the dealer.
#2- As far as reliability, my wife drives an'86 Aries 4dr (30mpg) over 500mi per wk., to and from work. I routinely drive my '86 Aries wagon (24mpg) on trips of over 2000mi. (round trip). My 87 Horizon(32mpg) has over 235,000mi on it with NO major repairs. The '86 4dr has over 300,000mi on it, the wagon has over 180,000mi. on it. I've got a friend that uses his '86 Daytona as his "work" car. He conducts training seminars all over the east coast and thinks nothing of driving 1800mi in a week. His engine has never been rebuilt, uses less than a qt of oil between 3500mi. oil change intervals, and he's getting 34-40mpg.
#3- I've NEVER had any major problems with the electrical system on ANY of my K-car based vehicles. I've hed very few minor problems either. The '86 4dr has been running a 4ch amp (70w/ch@4ohm) for 3yrs now with the stock alternator. It has A/C that is used from about late Feb to early Nov.. No problems.
#4- The turbo 2.2/2.5's are some of the MOST reliable automotive turbo engines EVER made. Reman turbos are plentiful, and again, very reasonably priced. The site I provided above has many members with over 200,000mi on their turbo engines without a rebuild.
The only things "wrong" with K-cars is that they were/are boxy, unsexy, pizazzless, utilitarian vehicles that have a low "book" value. They're pretty hard to beat for affordable reliable transportation though.
gudoxa on 06/13/2007 14:26:10
i just talked to the previous owner and he used mechanics straight from school cause they when where cheaper
he had work done on the electrical systems which explains why it looks like i could have wired it better
plus i think my car has just developed a boost leak
(>.<)
gudoxa on 06/13/2007 14:31:56
though all the research i have done on my car suggests my car is reliable
the previous owner just beat it to death :(
swez on 06/13/2007 18:24:18
Thanks for the input GH. A few of my buddies had K-cars of that vintage and had many issues with them as well. Some were poor maint issues while others were just driving them pretty hard.
Sounds like you have had very good experiences with Mopar products. My Dad was a Mopar diehard fan too. That changed when he got a Town N Country Wagon and a Chrysler Lean Burn 400 series Newport? (Circa mid-1970's) Both vehicles never ran right and the Lean Burn computer module was replaced 3 times before he finally offed that car. (2 lemons at the same time?)
Prior to that, the 318, 360 and 383 engines were great on other cars he had owned pre-1972. The 383 was a strong engine in a large Newport sedan. (1966 I believe) That was one big and heavy car. But it ran great for many years.
Anyway, am glad some folks have very good experiences with the mid 80's K-series cars. Our family cars were fine until the mid-70's models came out. I'll take your word on the matter. The 80's models may have improved a lot. (GH's info proves that too) I can accept that... no problemos amigo.
As I recall, many mid/late 70's vintage cars were plagued with performance problems when the new EPA emmission standards came in. It seems to me that many cars of that era were de-tuned for lower HP and better MPG and emmissions requirements. (Unleaded fuels introduced in the US about 1976)
In the late 60's and early 70's we had some great "Muscle Cars" coming out of Detroit. After about 1973, that changed a lot. Then came the 80's and forward. Things got a lot better. So much for car history.
Swez
gearhead on 06/13/2007 21:00:23
Yeah, I'll admit Chrysler's LeanBurn system was horrendous. But it was also extremely easy (and cheap) to "retrofit" to pre LeanBurn specs. By the mid 80's Chrysler really had their electronics together IMO. No special reader/code retriever needed to get the trouble codes, all you needed to do was turn the ignition key on-off-on-off-on-off-on and poof, it spits the codes at you.
swez on 06/13/2007 21:11:59
Yeah, after the 3rd module was intalled and eventually failed, we did a retrofit/bypass kit and the problems went away. That was when Dad said it's time to off this car and cut his losses in good concience. He bought a Chrysler shop manual for this one and we looked long and hard for ways to bypass or optimize the best we could. It helped, but even the dealerships were of little help. Our best info came from the local autoparts dealers who knew the fixes well.
I helped him tweak and such, but we did not have the Internet back then to guide us to a workable solution. But after talking to a few factory reps, techs and a few good autoparts guys, it was the most viable solution. Retrofit and just sell the car was the best advice we got.
He did lay hands on a Cordoba after this fiasco and that car was a nice change for the better. That was a sweet ride in its day.
Swez
gearhead on 06/13/2007 22:00:02
Did it have the "Rich Corinthian Leather"? GRIN
swez on 06/14/2007 03:57:17
Of coarse it did Ricardo! SMILE I though he said..."Fine Corinthian Leather"? But then again, my mind ain't what it used to be either.
Has anyone seen my mind lately? I seem to have misplaced parts of it and things are not working out as well as they used to. Don't let your body go past 40. Wierd things happen shortly past that age and "senior moments" are just around the corner. GRIN
Swez
jamesp on 06/14/2007 07:45:45
Boys, boys, I consulted with Tattoo and found the true nature of the covering used on the seating surfaces. "Crushed Corinthian Leather"
Got to go, Tattoo and I are going to do some plane spotting. "Boss, the plane, the plane."
swez on 06/14/2007 09:57:58
It sure is great to have a few guys on this forum that were around in the "good ol days".
You're right, Tattoo is a reliable source... good call Jimmy! GRIN
Swez
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