I have a 2000 Honda Civic EX 4 door and want to put toghether a system.
Here is what i have so far :
- Alpine CDA-9813 or Eclipse CD5443 HU's.
- Eclipse 6 Disc Cd Changer
- Eclipse PA5422 4 channel amp
- KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit
What i need :
4 speakers run off the eclipse amp or instead run a comp set off the front 2 channels and bridge the rear channels to a sub that whould suit the amp.
What i listen to :
Hiphop, Rock, International, Dance
I whould appreciate any help guys. Thanks
My budget :
$400-500 for the rest of the stuff.
Replies (21)
swez on 06/2/2007 20:56:02
This amp is pretty good for a strong set of front Comps and a 4 ohm sub off the rear channels.
From looking at the specs, it delivers 85 Wrms x 4 @ 4 ohms, 120 Wrms x 4 @ 2 ohms and about 250 Wrms off the rear channels when bridged for a sub.
In such a small car, bass should be pretty solid with a very efficient 10-12" sub. You can go sealed or ported here, depending on your taste in bass.
Do the rear seats flip down for added stowage in this car? If yes, this would help get more Bass SPL into the main cabin. One seat down would be fine for daily use.
Say more about what is the speaker size in the front door panels of this vehicle OK? It looks like 6.5" rounds are stock here... confirm.
Swez
MO on 06/2/2007 23:58:34
Yes the front speakers are 6.5's and the rears are 6x9's i believe. Im sure the rear seats fold down but not positive. What do you recommend to finish this install swez ?
How much power will i get from the 2 front channels and how should i wire it and how about the rear channels ?
swez on 06/3/2007 09:35:06
The power you'll get from the front and/or rear channels of this amp depends on the ohmic rating of the speakers used.
1. 4 ohm speakers get ~85 watts RMS/ch.
2. 2 ohm speakers get ~120 watts RMS/ch.
3. Rear channels bridged will deliver ~240 watts RMS in MONO
The Alpine HU has the V-drive power amp kit and delivers a solid 27 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. This is enough to provide adequate power to rear fill speakers. This is an older model, but many here bought them a few years back and liked them well.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Znm44shAowt/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?I=500CDA9813&search=Alpine+CDA9813
As for front speakers, you can use a high quality set of Component speakers and get plenty of mid/high sound up front. Using the HU rear amp channels to power the rear fill speakers would be a good option. That leaves the rear channels of this amp for a single 10-12" sub. (4 ohms please)
As for brands to consider for speakers, Polk, Infinity, Kenwood, JBL or CDT Comps in front will fit your present budget and leave room for a sub and box too.
For now, you can use the stock rear speakers for rear fill and change them later if you want more power handling and better highs. (Can always add remote tweeters w/ a passive crossover and get better highs back there for low cost)
A single medium power sub is a good option here. Alpine, Kenwood, Infinity and a few others can do the job well in a small, sealed box.
I cannot find much detail on the Eclipse HU model you mentioned. If you have a link to the specs and features, that would be most helpful. Integrating your Eclipse CD changer would be easier if this HU were used. But without some additional information on this HU, (Users/Installer manual) I cannot say which HU would be best for your system integration.
Comments?
Swez
PS It may be difficult to integrate your Eclipse CD changer to the Alpine HU. If you have an I-pod or MP3 player available, the Alpine has Aux in ports that can be used to adapt to that format. In many ways, an I-Pod is much more versitile then the bulky and limited functions we see in older CD changers.
MO on 06/3/2007 12:51:24
Ok i could'nt find any info on the Eclipse online but i do have the users manual in the box. I believe it doesnt offer xovers such as HPF or LPF but it does have 3 preouts.
I will be back later with more info on the 5443. Is there anything specific you want to know about it so i can look for it. ?
p.s. the alpine 9813 requires a 10 or 12 gauge power line from the HU to the battery of the car due to the VDRIVE built in amps power.
I whould probably not even use the built in amp if i were to use the Alpine. Im leaning more towards the eclipse anyways. There are some amazing reviews on it if you do a google search for revews on carreview or epinions.
Victor on 06/3/2007 17:04:18
As per your experience you have had with JBL and Infinity, and also seeing a lot of those selling well in the indian market here, i guess it wud be good to suggest you infinity or JBL 2 ohm DVC subs as well as 2 ohm version of components and other speakers, not too expensive and with a very good price/performance ratio....
a nice way to extract the most juice out of your amp....
What ya say swez...???
Victor...
MO on 06/3/2007 17:27:26
Actually i prefer to run everything 4 ohm. Comps and Sub.
I was looking at the Infinity Referance 12 and the Alpine Type E but i have never heard these.
Both are about 250rms per sub @ 4 ohm
swez on 06/3/2007 18:52:26
I would lean toward the Infinity Ref sub here. You can go with a single 10 or 12 and be pretty solid here. I have lead several others in that direction in the past and all have reported very satisfactory results for low powered sub apps. (It seems you are leaning toward the 10 Ref series sub?)
Seems like you are leaning toward the Eclipse HU here. That's fine if you like the features and know how to use them well. It will integrate well with the CD changer too.
As far as amping your speakers, you can use two pair of Comps in front and a decent pair of 6x9's in the rear and power both off the front channels of this amp. However, power will be limited to ~60 watts per speaker system, (Not too shabby) and to obtain good front/rear fade control, you may need to add power attenuators to the rear speakers to get a good balance.
Another option to consider, would be to add a modest Class D amp for your sub only channel. This costs a bit more, but then you can take full advantage of the 4 channel amp, HU features and have total control over the entire system via the Eclipse HU menu system.
If you go this above route, I would strongly consider 2 ohm speakers in the front doors. (Infinity Kappa Series) This will give you very strong front stage presents and a decent pair of Infinity 4 ohm Coaxials in back would be very nice.
Why? When using 4 ohm speaker in both front and rear speaker systems, the rear speakers tend to dominate as much as 4-6dB more SPL at the same power settings. Using 2 ohm Comps up front will net strong front stage power and one will not have to attenuate the rear amp channels to obtain good balance from front to rear stages.
Comments?
Swez
MO on 06/3/2007 22:34:54
IF i decided to add another amp i whould just use my 500/1 and 12w6v2 but the reason i don't want to use them is because of my charging system etc....
On second thought i decided to use the Alpine CDA-9813 as my HU since i whould like to use an ipod instead of a bulky cd changer.
What do you suggest now ? I may be able to use the 4 channel on speakers alone and get a smaller mono amp for the sub.
swez on 06/4/2007 07:18:33
Oh... you already have a 500/1? Why not use it and just be prudent on how much bass energy is used. One can always dial back on the gain settings to limit power draw.
Analogy: The power we have available in a car engine is controlled by the gas pedal. Amp gains are the same idea. Most people know they can "Red Line" the engine all they wish at the expense of engine life and safety issues. The same applied to amplifiers.
If you elect to go this route, plan on doing the "Big 3" wiring upgrade and use either dual #4 gage power lines, (one to each amp) or drop to a 1/0 main line and use a D-block to split out a pair of #4's. (One per amp) If you need a bit more buffer when you want that extra power, invest in a H.O. battery like an Optima or Kinetiks. (800 CCA rating or higher)
Swez
PS I like the idea about using the Alpine HU. If you don't need the internal amps in this HU, I believe they can be turned off via a menu setting adjustment and this would eliminate the need for the larger power line for the V-drive amps in the HU. This HU does have some very nice features as well.
MO on 06/4/2007 10:13:50
Now its time to find a installer to get all this and do it right... I know alot of places don't do the big 3 around here. I live in MD in the DC area close to VA and DC. Hope i can find somone that puts alot of care into the install.
If i decide to use the 500/1, how should i make use of the eclipse amplifier or should i use my ppi a600.2 instead ?
swez on 06/4/2007 13:28:18
If it were me, I'd use the 4 channel to power both front and rear speakers and then drop in the JL 500/1 for your sub(s).
Are you able and willing to do the install work yourself? If you want a quality job, DIY! If installing a HU seems a bit daunting to you and you want it to look professionally done, have a good installer do that part for you. Once that part is done correctly and to your satisfaction, the rest is not too bad on most Japanese cars.
I am not a Pro Installer, but after doing a few very complex installs for other guys, most of the steps are not too hard on many of the newer cars. Trim panels come off pretty easy to hide our wiring. Most door panels are pretty straight forward and with patience and a few basic tools, can be done by a careful DIY'er.
What I am trying to point out here, many run of the mill installers take lots of shortcuts and speed is the name of the game. Some of these are good shortcuts and they have learned how to do things fast as they do several vehicles a day. But one issue that seems all too common, they don't care about the fine details that a DIY'er would want done.
Lastly, when we do our own installs, we take our time, care about the details and want our work to reflect something about ourselves. We know where everything is, how it was done and what it took to take things apart and put it all back together again. That builds confidence and a deep sense of accomplishment. Think it over as you wish. We (CK team) have helped thousands of guys and a few gals to do their own work. You'll have plenty of support as you go.
Swez
PS Do you have a Digital camera? That can come in very handy if one gets stuck and needs a fresh idea or two on how to work around a snag.
PSS I have seen some real hack-job installs done by "Pro Installers" and have also seen some truly excellent workmanship from total amatures. Yes, there are some excellent Pro Installers out there and they are worth every dime when doing custom fiberglass panels or enclosures. But even then, they need a good amount of time in your vehicle to do this well.
MO on 06/4/2007 17:41:44
Im willing to give it a shot and do it myself this sunday since im off from work.
First ill need to figure out how to remove the stock honda cd player. I know it has a red light that that flashes when the car is parked and locked. I need some kind of step by step guide of sorts to do it the right way.
I still need component speakers for the front. Not sure if i should invest in rearfill speakers at this point. What do you think ?
I do have a 2 channel ppi a600.2 that does 150 x 2 @ 4 ohm
or i could just go with the Eclipse.
swez on 06/5/2007 10:05:20
The PPI is a great amp for SQL installs and a good choice for high powered systems. Couple this amp with your JL 500/1 and current draw will be over your limits and electrical upgrades are likely.
If you want to keep things simple, use the Eclipse amp for front/rear speakers and the 500/1 for sub(s).
As for the HU swap, perhaps one of our Pro Installers will pick up on this one and add some comments. Otherwise, you may want to look at some info specific forums related to Civics and see what others have done in detail. Cardomain.com might be a good place to browse.
Also, check out this link at Crutchfield. If you buy any gear from them, you get a lot of free stuff and a MasterSheet for install directions too.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IIkC71ORPND/app/car/mycar.aspx
Swez
MO on 06/5/2007 11:52:15
OK thanks swez. Do you still suggest i use the Eclipse amps front channels at 2 ohms for the comps and 4 ohm for the rears ?
Ill have to research some good 2 ohm comps in this case before i make the purhase and maybe some decent 2 way coaxials for the rearfill.
swez on 06/5/2007 19:17:25
I really like the Infinity and JBL 2 ohm Comps. They sound strong and have very good passive crossovers too.
At 2 ohms in front stage and 4 ohm Coaxials in back, minimal gain fiddling is needed. Both have great component type crossovers too and your Eclipse amp is well in range with power needs of both.
Check Crutchfield's offerings and then use their model numbers to shop for the best prices. Crutch has great product details, excellent customer service and gives nice add on parts kits and a Master Install sheet for products they sell. However, in most cases, they are full retail prices unless there is a package deal offered at deep discounts.
IMHO, they are #1 in service, product selection and support pre/post sale. Just not the lowest prices on the block. A very good site for specs and reference tools too.
Swez
jamesp on 06/5/2007 19:52:40
If you can order something from Crutchfield, like maybe rear fill speakers or an LOC....you will get the Master Sheets for your specific car. These sheets were wotyh thier wieght in gold to me as they clearly show how to remove` all of the interior panels and dash pieces for an install,
I found a great price on Infinity 2 Ohm 6x8 Kappa comps online. Different suppliers seem to have better prices on the different size Infinity comps so look around.I found the size I needed for less than $150.00 delivered. These guys walked me`e through a complete system install with front and rears on a 4 channel RF amp and a single Alpine 12" type R with a mono RF amp. I u`sed an Eclipse CD 5000 head unit and added a Sirius tuner. I am more than happy with my system and am now comfortable about installing audio equipment in cars...I have learned a lot from this site and its members and the Basic Car Audio link on the left has a fantastic electronics tutorial
swez on 06/5/2007 22:51:52
Indeed, good tips there James and since you did so well on your install, why not show others the way too. (Like you have been doing) CLAP
Swez
MO on 06/6/2007 00:58:00
Will the master sheets only cover the speaker part of the install for my car or other things aswell such as HU etc..
swez on 06/6/2007 06:59:16
Yes, the whole ball of wax. Just call them and ask what is included in the Master Sheets for your vehicle and how to get a copy.
1.888.955.6000 A free call to you.
Swez
MO on 06/6/2007 11:29:13
Thanks for looking out SWEZ and others. Been big help here.
Now i need to decide which of my cars i want to install all this in.
2000 Honda Civic EX 4 door or 1998 Nissan Maxima SE..
Decision time.
swez on 06/6/2007 17:35:46
Easy deal... the one you like driving the most. Sure, the Maxima is a great car to drive and a nice ride too. But for daily commuting to and from work, the Civic is a nice "gas sipper" and that's something to consider too.
THINKing on such matters is a good idea... Pros/Cons
Swez
Here is what i have so far :
- Alpine CDA-9813 or Eclipse CD5443 HU's.
- Eclipse 6 Disc Cd Changer
- Eclipse PA5422 4 channel amp
- KnuKonceptz 4 gauge amp kit
What i need :
4 speakers run off the eclipse amp or instead run a comp set off the front 2 channels and bridge the rear channels to a sub that whould suit the amp.
What i listen to :
Hiphop, Rock, International, Dance
I whould appreciate any help guys. Thanks
My budget :
$400-500 for the rest of the stuff.
Replies (21)
swez on 06/2/2007 20:56:02
This amp is pretty good for a strong set of front Comps and a 4 ohm sub off the rear channels.
From looking at the specs, it delivers 85 Wrms x 4 @ 4 ohms, 120 Wrms x 4 @ 2 ohms and about 250 Wrms off the rear channels when bridged for a sub.
In such a small car, bass should be pretty solid with a very efficient 10-12" sub. You can go sealed or ported here, depending on your taste in bass.
Do the rear seats flip down for added stowage in this car? If yes, this would help get more Bass SPL into the main cabin. One seat down would be fine for daily use.
Say more about what is the speaker size in the front door panels of this vehicle OK? It looks like 6.5" rounds are stock here... confirm.
Swez
MO on 06/2/2007 23:58:34
Yes the front speakers are 6.5's and the rears are 6x9's i believe. Im sure the rear seats fold down but not positive. What do you recommend to finish this install swez ?
How much power will i get from the 2 front channels and how should i wire it and how about the rear channels ?
swez on 06/3/2007 09:35:06
The power you'll get from the front and/or rear channels of this amp depends on the ohmic rating of the speakers used.
1. 4 ohm speakers get ~85 watts RMS/ch.
2. 2 ohm speakers get ~120 watts RMS/ch.
3. Rear channels bridged will deliver ~240 watts RMS in MONO
The Alpine HU has the V-drive power amp kit and delivers a solid 27 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. This is enough to provide adequate power to rear fill speakers. This is an older model, but many here bought them a few years back and liked them well.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Znm44shAowt/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?I=500CDA9813&search=Alpine+CDA9813
As for front speakers, you can use a high quality set of Component speakers and get plenty of mid/high sound up front. Using the HU rear amp channels to power the rear fill speakers would be a good option. That leaves the rear channels of this amp for a single 10-12" sub. (4 ohms please)
As for brands to consider for speakers, Polk, Infinity, Kenwood, JBL or CDT Comps in front will fit your present budget and leave room for a sub and box too.
For now, you can use the stock rear speakers for rear fill and change them later if you want more power handling and better highs. (Can always add remote tweeters w/ a passive crossover and get better highs back there for low cost)
A single medium power sub is a good option here. Alpine, Kenwood, Infinity and a few others can do the job well in a small, sealed box.
I cannot find much detail on the Eclipse HU model you mentioned. If you have a link to the specs and features, that would be most helpful. Integrating your Eclipse CD changer would be easier if this HU were used. But without some additional information on this HU, (Users/Installer manual) I cannot say which HU would be best for your system integration.
Comments?
Swez
PS It may be difficult to integrate your Eclipse CD changer to the Alpine HU. If you have an I-pod or MP3 player available, the Alpine has Aux in ports that can be used to adapt to that format. In many ways, an I-Pod is much more versitile then the bulky and limited functions we see in older CD changers.
MO on 06/3/2007 12:51:24
Ok i could'nt find any info on the Eclipse online but i do have the users manual in the box. I believe it doesnt offer xovers such as HPF or LPF but it does have 3 preouts.
I will be back later with more info on the 5443. Is there anything specific you want to know about it so i can look for it. ?
p.s. the alpine 9813 requires a 10 or 12 gauge power line from the HU to the battery of the car due to the VDRIVE built in amps power.
I whould probably not even use the built in amp if i were to use the Alpine. Im leaning more towards the eclipse anyways. There are some amazing reviews on it if you do a google search for revews on carreview or epinions.
Victor on 06/3/2007 17:04:18
As per your experience you have had with JBL and Infinity, and also seeing a lot of those selling well in the indian market here, i guess it wud be good to suggest you infinity or JBL 2 ohm DVC subs as well as 2 ohm version of components and other speakers, not too expensive and with a very good price/performance ratio....
a nice way to extract the most juice out of your amp....
What ya say swez...???
Victor...
MO on 06/3/2007 17:27:26
Actually i prefer to run everything 4 ohm. Comps and Sub.
I was looking at the Infinity Referance 12 and the Alpine Type E but i have never heard these.
Both are about 250rms per sub @ 4 ohm
swez on 06/3/2007 18:52:26
I would lean toward the Infinity Ref sub here. You can go with a single 10 or 12 and be pretty solid here. I have lead several others in that direction in the past and all have reported very satisfactory results for low powered sub apps. (It seems you are leaning toward the 10 Ref series sub?)
Seems like you are leaning toward the Eclipse HU here. That's fine if you like the features and know how to use them well. It will integrate well with the CD changer too.
As far as amping your speakers, you can use two pair of Comps in front and a decent pair of 6x9's in the rear and power both off the front channels of this amp. However, power will be limited to ~60 watts per speaker system, (Not too shabby) and to obtain good front/rear fade control, you may need to add power attenuators to the rear speakers to get a good balance.
Another option to consider, would be to add a modest Class D amp for your sub only channel. This costs a bit more, but then you can take full advantage of the 4 channel amp, HU features and have total control over the entire system via the Eclipse HU menu system.
If you go this above route, I would strongly consider 2 ohm speakers in the front doors. (Infinity Kappa Series) This will give you very strong front stage presents and a decent pair of Infinity 4 ohm Coaxials in back would be very nice.
Why? When using 4 ohm speaker in both front and rear speaker systems, the rear speakers tend to dominate as much as 4-6dB more SPL at the same power settings. Using 2 ohm Comps up front will net strong front stage power and one will not have to attenuate the rear amp channels to obtain good balance from front to rear stages.
Comments?
Swez
MO on 06/3/2007 22:34:54
IF i decided to add another amp i whould just use my 500/1 and 12w6v2 but the reason i don't want to use them is because of my charging system etc....
On second thought i decided to use the Alpine CDA-9813 as my HU since i whould like to use an ipod instead of a bulky cd changer.
What do you suggest now ? I may be able to use the 4 channel on speakers alone and get a smaller mono amp for the sub.
swez on 06/4/2007 07:18:33
Oh... you already have a 500/1? Why not use it and just be prudent on how much bass energy is used. One can always dial back on the gain settings to limit power draw.
Analogy: The power we have available in a car engine is controlled by the gas pedal. Amp gains are the same idea. Most people know they can "Red Line" the engine all they wish at the expense of engine life and safety issues. The same applied to amplifiers.
If you elect to go this route, plan on doing the "Big 3" wiring upgrade and use either dual #4 gage power lines, (one to each amp) or drop to a 1/0 main line and use a D-block to split out a pair of #4's. (One per amp) If you need a bit more buffer when you want that extra power, invest in a H.O. battery like an Optima or Kinetiks. (800 CCA rating or higher)
Swez
PS I like the idea about using the Alpine HU. If you don't need the internal amps in this HU, I believe they can be turned off via a menu setting adjustment and this would eliminate the need for the larger power line for the V-drive amps in the HU. This HU does have some very nice features as well.
MO on 06/4/2007 10:13:50
Now its time to find a installer to get all this and do it right... I know alot of places don't do the big 3 around here. I live in MD in the DC area close to VA and DC. Hope i can find somone that puts alot of care into the install.
If i decide to use the 500/1, how should i make use of the eclipse amplifier or should i use my ppi a600.2 instead ?
swez on 06/4/2007 13:28:18
If it were me, I'd use the 4 channel to power both front and rear speakers and then drop in the JL 500/1 for your sub(s).
Are you able and willing to do the install work yourself? If you want a quality job, DIY! If installing a HU seems a bit daunting to you and you want it to look professionally done, have a good installer do that part for you. Once that part is done correctly and to your satisfaction, the rest is not too bad on most Japanese cars.
I am not a Pro Installer, but after doing a few very complex installs for other guys, most of the steps are not too hard on many of the newer cars. Trim panels come off pretty easy to hide our wiring. Most door panels are pretty straight forward and with patience and a few basic tools, can be done by a careful DIY'er.
What I am trying to point out here, many run of the mill installers take lots of shortcuts and speed is the name of the game. Some of these are good shortcuts and they have learned how to do things fast as they do several vehicles a day. But one issue that seems all too common, they don't care about the fine details that a DIY'er would want done.
Lastly, when we do our own installs, we take our time, care about the details and want our work to reflect something about ourselves. We know where everything is, how it was done and what it took to take things apart and put it all back together again. That builds confidence and a deep sense of accomplishment. Think it over as you wish. We (CK team) have helped thousands of guys and a few gals to do their own work. You'll have plenty of support as you go.
Swez
PS Do you have a Digital camera? That can come in very handy if one gets stuck and needs a fresh idea or two on how to work around a snag.
PSS I have seen some real hack-job installs done by "Pro Installers" and have also seen some truly excellent workmanship from total amatures. Yes, there are some excellent Pro Installers out there and they are worth every dime when doing custom fiberglass panels or enclosures. But even then, they need a good amount of time in your vehicle to do this well.
MO on 06/4/2007 17:41:44
Im willing to give it a shot and do it myself this sunday since im off from work.
First ill need to figure out how to remove the stock honda cd player. I know it has a red light that that flashes when the car is parked and locked. I need some kind of step by step guide of sorts to do it the right way.
I still need component speakers for the front. Not sure if i should invest in rearfill speakers at this point. What do you think ?
I do have a 2 channel ppi a600.2 that does 150 x 2 @ 4 ohm
or i could just go with the Eclipse.
swez on 06/5/2007 10:05:20
The PPI is a great amp for SQL installs and a good choice for high powered systems. Couple this amp with your JL 500/1 and current draw will be over your limits and electrical upgrades are likely.
If you want to keep things simple, use the Eclipse amp for front/rear speakers and the 500/1 for sub(s).
As for the HU swap, perhaps one of our Pro Installers will pick up on this one and add some comments. Otherwise, you may want to look at some info specific forums related to Civics and see what others have done in detail. Cardomain.com might be a good place to browse.
Also, check out this link at Crutchfield. If you buy any gear from them, you get a lot of free stuff and a MasterSheet for install directions too.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IIkC71ORPND/app/car/mycar.aspx
Swez
MO on 06/5/2007 11:52:15
OK thanks swez. Do you still suggest i use the Eclipse amps front channels at 2 ohms for the comps and 4 ohm for the rears ?
Ill have to research some good 2 ohm comps in this case before i make the purhase and maybe some decent 2 way coaxials for the rearfill.
swez on 06/5/2007 19:17:25
I really like the Infinity and JBL 2 ohm Comps. They sound strong and have very good passive crossovers too.
At 2 ohms in front stage and 4 ohm Coaxials in back, minimal gain fiddling is needed. Both have great component type crossovers too and your Eclipse amp is well in range with power needs of both.
Check Crutchfield's offerings and then use their model numbers to shop for the best prices. Crutch has great product details, excellent customer service and gives nice add on parts kits and a Master Install sheet for products they sell. However, in most cases, they are full retail prices unless there is a package deal offered at deep discounts.
IMHO, they are #1 in service, product selection and support pre/post sale. Just not the lowest prices on the block. A very good site for specs and reference tools too.
Swez
jamesp on 06/5/2007 19:52:40
If you can order something from Crutchfield, like maybe rear fill speakers or an LOC....you will get the Master Sheets for your specific car. These sheets were wotyh thier wieght in gold to me as they clearly show how to remove` all of the interior panels and dash pieces for an install,
I found a great price on Infinity 2 Ohm 6x8 Kappa comps online. Different suppliers seem to have better prices on the different size Infinity comps so look around.I found the size I needed for less than $150.00 delivered. These guys walked me`e through a complete system install with front and rears on a 4 channel RF amp and a single Alpine 12" type R with a mono RF amp. I u`sed an Eclipse CD 5000 head unit and added a Sirius tuner. I am more than happy with my system and am now comfortable about installing audio equipment in cars...I have learned a lot from this site and its members and the Basic Car Audio link on the left has a fantastic electronics tutorial
swez on 06/5/2007 22:51:52
Indeed, good tips there James and since you did so well on your install, why not show others the way too. (Like you have been doing) CLAP
Swez
MO on 06/6/2007 00:58:00
Will the master sheets only cover the speaker part of the install for my car or other things aswell such as HU etc..
swez on 06/6/2007 06:59:16
Yes, the whole ball of wax. Just call them and ask what is included in the Master Sheets for your vehicle and how to get a copy.
1.888.955.6000 A free call to you.
Swez
MO on 06/6/2007 11:29:13
Thanks for looking out SWEZ and others. Been big help here.
Now i need to decide which of my cars i want to install all this in.
2000 Honda Civic EX 4 door or 1998 Nissan Maxima SE..
Decision time.
swez on 06/6/2007 17:35:46
Easy deal... the one you like driving the most. Sure, the Maxima is a great car to drive and a nice ride too. But for daily commuting to and from work, the Civic is a nice "gas sipper" and that's something to consider too.
THINKing on such matters is a good idea... Pros/Cons
Swez
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