newB, heres the enclosure I said I'd take pictures of for you. This enclosure utilized recess cuts in the MDF to create a 3" port flair.
This enclosure is 2.05^ft with a 3''w x 11.5''h x 34" L port tuned to 36hz. I added port length to include the flair so I started the actual length of the port at the beginning of the flair.
The actual bend in the MDF was reinforced using gorilla glue in each recess cut and a layer of fiberglass resin was layered on in the interior bend.
This is just a test enclosure for my CDT SQ-12.
Pics:
Enclosure:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Ported2.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Ported3.jpg
Port Flair:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Ported.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Port.jpg
Enjoy and if u have questions don't hesitate to ask.
-30
Replies (5)
newB on 05/31/2007 18:50:13
i love how clean that box looks!
excellent router and sanding work!
im not sure if i updated the other thread yet or not, but the box i wanted to make with all four sides "flared" was chalked up to trial and error. nothing seemed to work right and i was rushed. so maybe next time.
how much lengh did you add to the port? and how did you set the board up to dry in the bent position??
CLAP
-Drew
30Hertz on 05/31/2007 19:18:59
Thanks, I threw that together in a couple of hours.
Basically all I did was bend the MDF and figure out where exactly the bend started. Then I just made my port length from there on, not from the very front of the baffle if that makes sense.
To hold the bend in place, I put gorilla glue inbetween the recesses, then put it on a board and used a carpenters square to get it to exactly a 90 degree angle. I then used CA (industrial strength super glue, with accelerator) and tacked it in place. Once it dried I put it in the box.
You could also mount it in the box, and use the carpenters square to make sure its a 90 and tack it in with screws or CA glue.
The Glue I used is from Mobile Solutions. Works great and I always use the stuff now.
http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/smartparts/adhesives.htm#cyan
newB on 05/31/2007 19:28:59
nice! that was the hardest part for the attempted single 10 box. holding two corners at 90* each and letting the glue sit.
THINK
i'll work out a more efficiant method in time.
-Drew
swez on 06/1/2007 07:54:14
Brad nails are pre-drilled and can be left long and removed later or counter sunk about 1/4". This will give good stability until the glue cures. If you plan to router off the corners with a 1/4 or 1/2 round bit later, use 2" brads at 6" spacing and do not countersink them. Leave about 1/4" of the head exposed. After the glue dries, remove the brads and fill holes with dry wall patching material. This is easy to sand when dry or wipe clean with a wet towel. Then, make your router passes in 2 stages and sand til smooth and well shaped with a palm or orbital sander and say 80 - 120 grit paper. This nets very nice finished edges and corners. (The sander takes some practice to do it well. It's all feel and keep the sander moving to avoid flat spots)
Also, long "H" clamps will work nice and keep things aligned and in place too. Have not tried it, but those ratcheting straps might be a cheap alternative to larger "H" clamps. They can be cinched down pretty tight around the box and are very cheap to buy. Good for very large boxes.
Nails, screws and staples are just a mechanical way to join wood together. The glue is the real kicker. Once the glue cures, this holds the wood better than any mechanical bonding method.
Swez
cplkittle on 06/1/2007 22:09:58
sure beats the heck out of my old method of stacking up layers of wood, glued together, and then cut on the band saw and sanded to shape.
This enclosure is 2.05^ft with a 3''w x 11.5''h x 34" L port tuned to 36hz. I added port length to include the flair so I started the actual length of the port at the beginning of the flair.
The actual bend in the MDF was reinforced using gorilla glue in each recess cut and a layer of fiberglass resin was layered on in the interior bend.
This is just a test enclosure for my CDT SQ-12.
Pics:
Enclosure:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Ported2.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Ported3.jpg
Port Flair:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Ported.jpg
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y287/SubSonicVibez/Port.jpg
Enjoy and if u have questions don't hesitate to ask.
-30
Replies (5)
newB on 05/31/2007 18:50:13
i love how clean that box looks!
excellent router and sanding work!
im not sure if i updated the other thread yet or not, but the box i wanted to make with all four sides "flared" was chalked up to trial and error. nothing seemed to work right and i was rushed. so maybe next time.
how much lengh did you add to the port? and how did you set the board up to dry in the bent position??
CLAP
-Drew
30Hertz on 05/31/2007 19:18:59
Thanks, I threw that together in a couple of hours.
Basically all I did was bend the MDF and figure out where exactly the bend started. Then I just made my port length from there on, not from the very front of the baffle if that makes sense.
To hold the bend in place, I put gorilla glue inbetween the recesses, then put it on a board and used a carpenters square to get it to exactly a 90 degree angle. I then used CA (industrial strength super glue, with accelerator) and tacked it in place. Once it dried I put it in the box.
You could also mount it in the box, and use the carpenters square to make sure its a 90 and tack it in with screws or CA glue.
The Glue I used is from Mobile Solutions. Works great and I always use the stuff now.
http://www.mobilesolutions-usa.com/smartparts/adhesives.htm#cyan
newB on 05/31/2007 19:28:59
nice! that was the hardest part for the attempted single 10 box. holding two corners at 90* each and letting the glue sit.
THINK
i'll work out a more efficiant method in time.
-Drew
swez on 06/1/2007 07:54:14
Brad nails are pre-drilled and can be left long and removed later or counter sunk about 1/4". This will give good stability until the glue cures. If you plan to router off the corners with a 1/4 or 1/2 round bit later, use 2" brads at 6" spacing and do not countersink them. Leave about 1/4" of the head exposed. After the glue dries, remove the brads and fill holes with dry wall patching material. This is easy to sand when dry or wipe clean with a wet towel. Then, make your router passes in 2 stages and sand til smooth and well shaped with a palm or orbital sander and say 80 - 120 grit paper. This nets very nice finished edges and corners. (The sander takes some practice to do it well. It's all feel and keep the sander moving to avoid flat spots)
Also, long "H" clamps will work nice and keep things aligned and in place too. Have not tried it, but those ratcheting straps might be a cheap alternative to larger "H" clamps. They can be cinched down pretty tight around the box and are very cheap to buy. Good for very large boxes.
Nails, screws and staples are just a mechanical way to join wood together. The glue is the real kicker. Once the glue cures, this holds the wood better than any mechanical bonding method.
Swez
cplkittle on 06/1/2007 22:09:58
sure beats the heck out of my old method of stacking up layers of wood, glued together, and then cut on the band saw and sanded to shape.
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