I've installed a stereo setup like this:
i did not use a factory wiring harness or anything like that.
headunit:
power wire to battery.
ground wire to chassis of car.
amplifier:
power wire to battery
ground wire to chassis in a different location than the headunits ground.
remote wire to battery.
the subwoofers are bridged on the two channel amplifier.
also, i noticed the remote wire seemed damaged.
This setup worked fine for about a year, then one day the amplifiers protection lights flip through a few lights then it goes to a low voltage power warning light.
so the amp flips on, the subs flip on, the subs flip off, the amp flips to a protection light. Also, you can kinda hear a power loss from the engine, and the tachometer shows the loss in power just before the protection lights come on.
of course this all happens very quickly.
I've checked all fuses.
i've used seperate wires to check, and the same problem occurs,
I went to autozone for a alternator check, and he ran a full test, and everything came back just fine.
the speakers are the problem because i unhooked them and checked with the same problem occuring.
i never have any trouble starting the car or anything like that, and the head unit works just fine with the mids and highs. The amp does not work because of the protection lights.
Is there anything else i should check before i just declare the amp broken?
thanks.
Replies (1)
swez on 05/28/2007 06:05:53
A DMM, (Digital Multimeter) would be most helpful here.
Testing the DC voltage at the battery would be step #1. Record the voltage #'s you get with the engine off, at idle and at ~2000 RPM.
Now, repeat the test at the amp power terminals in the same sequence and record those results. If they are the same within about 0.5 volts, the charging system and power/ground lines are in good shape. If the numbers are more than 1 volt difference, your amp ground may not be working well enough. (Clean, bare metal connection to a seat belt bolt often works very well) If the ground lead looks off color, corrosion at the grounding site or a poor connection to the floor pan will cause problems like this.
Also, chech the voltage between remote and ground. This should be a solid 12 volts DC off the HU. If this wire is damaged, (Little or no DC voltage readings) remove the remote feed wire and use a "temporary" jumper wire from the amp + power terminal to the remote lug.
Tech Tip: When doing this jumper test, remove the fuse on the main power line at the battery and then insert your jumper wire as noted above. Once you have it wired securely, then reinstall the fuse and see how the amp responds now.
What make and model # amp, speakers/subs are you working with here?
Say more about your gear and how you wired things up. Something has gone south since the original install. It could be the amp, a bad speaker/sub or just a simple wiring issue.
Swez
i did not use a factory wiring harness or anything like that.
headunit:
power wire to battery.
ground wire to chassis of car.
amplifier:
power wire to battery
ground wire to chassis in a different location than the headunits ground.
remote wire to battery.
the subwoofers are bridged on the two channel amplifier.
also, i noticed the remote wire seemed damaged.
This setup worked fine for about a year, then one day the amplifiers protection lights flip through a few lights then it goes to a low voltage power warning light.
so the amp flips on, the subs flip on, the subs flip off, the amp flips to a protection light. Also, you can kinda hear a power loss from the engine, and the tachometer shows the loss in power just before the protection lights come on.
of course this all happens very quickly.
I've checked all fuses.
i've used seperate wires to check, and the same problem occurs,
I went to autozone for a alternator check, and he ran a full test, and everything came back just fine.
the speakers are the problem because i unhooked them and checked with the same problem occuring.
i never have any trouble starting the car or anything like that, and the head unit works just fine with the mids and highs. The amp does not work because of the protection lights.
Is there anything else i should check before i just declare the amp broken?
thanks.
Replies (1)
swez on 05/28/2007 06:05:53
A DMM, (Digital Multimeter) would be most helpful here.
Testing the DC voltage at the battery would be step #1. Record the voltage #'s you get with the engine off, at idle and at ~2000 RPM.
Now, repeat the test at the amp power terminals in the same sequence and record those results. If they are the same within about 0.5 volts, the charging system and power/ground lines are in good shape. If the numbers are more than 1 volt difference, your amp ground may not be working well enough. (Clean, bare metal connection to a seat belt bolt often works very well) If the ground lead looks off color, corrosion at the grounding site or a poor connection to the floor pan will cause problems like this.
Also, chech the voltage between remote and ground. This should be a solid 12 volts DC off the HU. If this wire is damaged, (Little or no DC voltage readings) remove the remote feed wire and use a "temporary" jumper wire from the amp + power terminal to the remote lug.
Tech Tip: When doing this jumper test, remove the fuse on the main power line at the battery and then insert your jumper wire as noted above. Once you have it wired securely, then reinstall the fuse and see how the amp responds now.
What make and model # amp, speakers/subs are you working with here?
Say more about your gear and how you wired things up. Something has gone south since the original install. It could be the amp, a bad speaker/sub or just a simple wiring issue.
Swez
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