i have a pp-am20001 fusion amp but when i hook it up my reception from my radio doesnt come but when i unhook the rca's or the speaker wires it comes in fairly decent and then when i unhook the power the reception comes in like it should i drive a 02 alero. also i was wondering which is better alluminum cones or metal cones.
Replies (22)
swez on 05/25/2007 23:14:53
That is an odd one to report. Does this car have a power antenna? If yes, make sure it is fully extending when the amp is connected. This can be an issue when using a REMote turn on tap off the power antenna circuit on Factory radios.
Also, there may be a grounding issue here to figure out. Stock HU's do not ground as well as Aftermarket units w/ dedicated grounds. Most LOC's use a pair of transformers and inductive couplings. If there are not solid and well defined ground planes in the LOC, this might be a possible issue to look at.
Metallized cones are common is high performance woofers. These are very light weight cones, often very efficient at moving air and can handle a lot of power too. They oftem make for a very rigid coned that should not deform at high SPL levels. Some like the sound of metal cones, but others note an odd metallic sound that is less then desireable. Call me old school here, but I prefer pulp cones or Kevlar type weaved cones over metal or poly cones anyday. (That's a personal preference is all)
What subs are you thinking about for this massive sub amp? Dual 4+4 DVC's give a 1 ohm load and this the target you want for getting the most from this amp.
Swez
ace23 on 05/28/2007 14:26:21
actually i have two 12" audiopipe txx-ap eye candy's wired down to 1 ohm there both duel 4 ohm there placed in a 6 cubic ft. slot ported box but i'm having a problem with the box right now it keeps on coming apart and the screws keep on coming out any suggestions to reinforce it better. i also dont have a stock hu i have a clarion DXZ845MC and i have one of those antenna's thats located in the back windshield, kinda like the grand prix's. also one more thing i'm looking to compete this summer and i have another pp-am20001 amp just sittin in my room brand new not even opend and i was going to add that for the comps there both class d and i can set one to slave so it should work out but i was wondering about what kind of subs i should get, i also plan on using the same box since it pretty much takes up my whole trunk space.
newB on 05/28/2007 14:29:53
what is that box tuned to?
it may take up your entire trunk but if its tuned to the low 30s your straight spl #s will be drasticly effected.
-Drew
Jo7Gle on 05/28/2007 15:09:54
How are you liking your amp. I owen the same one. Ive been wondering what subs to run with mine also....Im thinkin 2 of the Fusions NV-SW12.
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&action=view&product_id=299
newB on 05/28/2007 15:18:09
i <3 the amp. only have it at 2ohm with some voltage drop so im waiting to feel its full potential.
i just toasted a 12 with it.
not from clipping but the condition of the sub. couldnt handle the power
how much do those cost??
im getting these next-
http://www.rdaudio.net/woofers/alpha.php
as far as i can tell these are very strong woofers for a good price.
(questions comments concerns on the drivers welcome)
-Drew
Jo7Gle on 05/28/2007 16:32:13
I just toasted two Audiobahn 12s with it.(my fault)
On the Fusion NV-SW12 I can get them around $200 each
ace23 on 05/28/2007 19:31:17
my box is tuned to 32 as for the amp it puts out good power i think. as for the fusion NV's i don't think there all that great my friend went through about 3 of them the cones kept on ripping. i was wondering how much those alpha woofers cost they look pretty beefy
newB on 05/29/2007 11:17:39
they run..... around 500 a pair.
and as you could tell from the other thread, i hooked up that deal with the TC9s becasue the price was right. i still like rd and want to get some more of their product in my area. we'll see
-Drew
ace23 on 05/29/2007 14:30:59
anyway if someone could tell me how to reinforce my box that would be great cause the screws keep on coming out and the boards are touching each other causing an annoying noise also i want to compete this summer so what should my box be tuned to right now the box i have its tuned to 32 and any suggestions on duel 2 ohm speakers that i can push with my two pp-am20001 fusion amps
ace23 on 05/30/2007 21:27:23
swez i'm looking for your help here
swez on 05/30/2007 22:22:26
Looked up your subs and they are rated at 600 watts RMS/each, 2+2 DVC's. I see you used the 3 ft^3 ported version for each sub. This Fusion amp delivers 750 watts RMS @ 2 ohms and 465 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. Not the best fit as this amp is the strongest at 1 ohm loads. (1150 RMS @ 1 ohm)
As for the screws popping out, if they are just screws to hold the board together, I see 2 main options here:
1. Use slightly larger and longer screws (If you have #6 x 1.5" screws now, go up to #8 x 2" drywall screws)
2. If that is not a good option make up a medium-bodied paste comprised of wood glue and MDF sawdust. (This can be used to coat the present screws or syringe this mixture into the loose screw holes and then drive in your screws) Once the glue dries, the screws should remain tight and not pop loose again.
Now, if the sub mounting screws are the problem, using a tee-nut and threaded screw hardware combination should do the trick. These are nice and we use these for all Pro Box woofers. They never come loose after the screws are well torqued into the tee-nut. (1/4" x 20 x 1.5" screws and 1/4" x 20 tee-nuts) Here's what the tee nuts look like:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1075
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-778
Another option we often use for Pro sub installs that need frequent field service, is a lever style clamp arrangement. These are very handy for quick field swaps on blown or damaged subs. We always use protective metal mesh grill covers and this type of hardware will securely hold the grill and sub tight in the box:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-352
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=262-869
Hope that helps,
Swez
newB on 05/31/2007 02:41:21
can you got those bolts locally?
home depot/lowes/ace ??
-Drew
swez on 05/31/2007 09:31:56
Sure, most good hardware stores or shops that cater to woodworkers will have them on hand.
I prefer the Hex Head style bolts best as they never slip on a good drill bit. Phillips heads are OK, but a loose or worn bit can slip and damage a cone. HEVER use slot head stove bolts on sub installs. The potential for the bit slipping and cone damage are just not worth the risk.
Swez
ace23 on 05/31/2007 10:13:44
thanks for the help swez i knew you would come through on this one. greatly appreciate it. also do you think that soundstreams splx-112 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16591 would be a good match if i ran one amp to each
newB on 05/31/2007 15:03:16
Sensitivity: 98.2 dB?????????????
wow.
thats impressive
-Drew
ace23 on 05/31/2007 22:09:53
so u think the subs will do good here.
swez on 06/1/2007 07:35:04
Oh yeah, these are strong SPL subs and don't need huge power amps to drive them to high SPL levels. Their efficiency rating is one of the highest I have seen in car subs for a long time.
I have an older pair of Soundstream SPL10's (4+4 DVC's) and they do sound off good at 500 watts RMS or a tad more. These are rated at 92dB SPL @ 2.83 volts. That's kinda nice as it does not take a huge amp to get them up to solid SPL #'s.
If you are going for lots of deep bass SPL, use the larger ported enclosure design. I used sealed on mine and a "Qtc alignment" of 0.707. They go very low in this design, but a smaller box will be my next venture. (Qtc alignment of about 0.85 should do it)
Here's the spec sheets in .pdf file format. Use their recommendations on vented/ported enclosures for best results.
http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/2006/sbw/SPLX%20SUBWOOF.pdf
Swez
PS The specs rate this sub at 89dB SPL @ 2.83 volts. That is still a very efficient sub number compared to most in this class that are typically 83 - 86dB SPL @ 1 watt.
ace23 on 06/2/2007 08:55:11
thanks for the info from the looks of the things this is gonna prolly be my choice in subs. thanks for all the help
swez on 06/2/2007 21:18:57
Sure thing.... and would you mind helping out our site with a modest donation? Our summer reseves are getting a bit low and we are funded by user donatations and advertising links.
Look below and you will see the funds we have on hand to date. The site cost is about $60.00/mo. Total funds in reserve are only $107.50 now. A modest donation from our satisfied readers would be a big help.
Thanks and good luck with your rig,
Swez
ace23 on 06/8/2007 23:32:39
is there any other way to make a donation since i dont have a credit card and i only have a debit card i dunno if it would work or not
swez on 06/9/2007 05:31:45
Yes, at the bottom of this box is a larger green info box that says "Privacy Policy". Click on that and Walter Hargraves mailing addy will show up. He accepts cash checks and PayPal.
Swez
cplkittle on 06/9/2007 10:41:23
Quote from Swez:
PS The specs rate this sub at 89dB SPL @ 2.83 volts. That is still a very efficient sub number compared to most in this class that are typically 83 - 86dB SPL @ 1 watt.
a sub rated at 89dB @2.83v is the same as 86@1w1m.
I will try to find the article, but the conclusion was that testing at 60Hz @ 4ohms would produce twice the output when given 2.83v.
Replies (22)
swez on 05/25/2007 23:14:53
That is an odd one to report. Does this car have a power antenna? If yes, make sure it is fully extending when the amp is connected. This can be an issue when using a REMote turn on tap off the power antenna circuit on Factory radios.
Also, there may be a grounding issue here to figure out. Stock HU's do not ground as well as Aftermarket units w/ dedicated grounds. Most LOC's use a pair of transformers and inductive couplings. If there are not solid and well defined ground planes in the LOC, this might be a possible issue to look at.
Metallized cones are common is high performance woofers. These are very light weight cones, often very efficient at moving air and can handle a lot of power too. They oftem make for a very rigid coned that should not deform at high SPL levels. Some like the sound of metal cones, but others note an odd metallic sound that is less then desireable. Call me old school here, but I prefer pulp cones or Kevlar type weaved cones over metal or poly cones anyday. (That's a personal preference is all)
What subs are you thinking about for this massive sub amp? Dual 4+4 DVC's give a 1 ohm load and this the target you want for getting the most from this amp.
Swez
ace23 on 05/28/2007 14:26:21
actually i have two 12" audiopipe txx-ap eye candy's wired down to 1 ohm there both duel 4 ohm there placed in a 6 cubic ft. slot ported box but i'm having a problem with the box right now it keeps on coming apart and the screws keep on coming out any suggestions to reinforce it better. i also dont have a stock hu i have a clarion DXZ845MC and i have one of those antenna's thats located in the back windshield, kinda like the grand prix's. also one more thing i'm looking to compete this summer and i have another pp-am20001 amp just sittin in my room brand new not even opend and i was going to add that for the comps there both class d and i can set one to slave so it should work out but i was wondering about what kind of subs i should get, i also plan on using the same box since it pretty much takes up my whole trunk space.
newB on 05/28/2007 14:29:53
what is that box tuned to?
it may take up your entire trunk but if its tuned to the low 30s your straight spl #s will be drasticly effected.
-Drew
Jo7Gle on 05/28/2007 15:09:54
How are you liking your amp. I owen the same one. Ive been wondering what subs to run with mine also....Im thinkin 2 of the Fusions NV-SW12.
http://www.fusioncaraudio.com/products.php?region=3&action=view&product_id=299
newB on 05/28/2007 15:18:09
i <3 the amp. only have it at 2ohm with some voltage drop so im waiting to feel its full potential.
i just toasted a 12 with it.
not from clipping but the condition of the sub. couldnt handle the power
how much do those cost??
im getting these next-
http://www.rdaudio.net/woofers/alpha.php
as far as i can tell these are very strong woofers for a good price.
(questions comments concerns on the drivers welcome)
-Drew
Jo7Gle on 05/28/2007 16:32:13
I just toasted two Audiobahn 12s with it.(my fault)
On the Fusion NV-SW12 I can get them around $200 each
ace23 on 05/28/2007 19:31:17
my box is tuned to 32 as for the amp it puts out good power i think. as for the fusion NV's i don't think there all that great my friend went through about 3 of them the cones kept on ripping. i was wondering how much those alpha woofers cost they look pretty beefy
newB on 05/29/2007 11:17:39
they run..... around 500 a pair.
and as you could tell from the other thread, i hooked up that deal with the TC9s becasue the price was right. i still like rd and want to get some more of their product in my area. we'll see
-Drew
ace23 on 05/29/2007 14:30:59
anyway if someone could tell me how to reinforce my box that would be great cause the screws keep on coming out and the boards are touching each other causing an annoying noise also i want to compete this summer so what should my box be tuned to right now the box i have its tuned to 32 and any suggestions on duel 2 ohm speakers that i can push with my two pp-am20001 fusion amps
ace23 on 05/30/2007 21:27:23
swez i'm looking for your help here
swez on 05/30/2007 22:22:26
Looked up your subs and they are rated at 600 watts RMS/each, 2+2 DVC's. I see you used the 3 ft^3 ported version for each sub. This Fusion amp delivers 750 watts RMS @ 2 ohms and 465 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. Not the best fit as this amp is the strongest at 1 ohm loads. (1150 RMS @ 1 ohm)
As for the screws popping out, if they are just screws to hold the board together, I see 2 main options here:
1. Use slightly larger and longer screws (If you have #6 x 1.5" screws now, go up to #8 x 2" drywall screws)
2. If that is not a good option make up a medium-bodied paste comprised of wood glue and MDF sawdust. (This can be used to coat the present screws or syringe this mixture into the loose screw holes and then drive in your screws) Once the glue dries, the screws should remain tight and not pop loose again.
Now, if the sub mounting screws are the problem, using a tee-nut and threaded screw hardware combination should do the trick. These are nice and we use these for all Pro Box woofers. They never come loose after the screws are well torqued into the tee-nut. (1/4" x 20 x 1.5" screws and 1/4" x 20 tee-nuts) Here's what the tee nuts look like:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=081-1075
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-778
Another option we often use for Pro sub installs that need frequent field service, is a lever style clamp arrangement. These are very handy for quick field swaps on blown or damaged subs. We always use protective metal mesh grill covers and this type of hardware will securely hold the grill and sub tight in the box:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=260-352
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=262-869
Hope that helps,
Swez
newB on 05/31/2007 02:41:21
can you got those bolts locally?
home depot/lowes/ace ??
-Drew
swez on 05/31/2007 09:31:56
Sure, most good hardware stores or shops that cater to woodworkers will have them on hand.
I prefer the Hex Head style bolts best as they never slip on a good drill bit. Phillips heads are OK, but a loose or worn bit can slip and damage a cone. HEVER use slot head stove bolts on sub installs. The potential for the bit slipping and cone damage are just not worth the risk.
Swez
ace23 on 05/31/2007 10:13:44
thanks for the help swez i knew you would come through on this one. greatly appreciate it. also do you think that soundstreams splx-112 http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16591 would be a good match if i ran one amp to each
newB on 05/31/2007 15:03:16
Sensitivity: 98.2 dB?????????????
wow.
thats impressive
-Drew
ace23 on 05/31/2007 22:09:53
so u think the subs will do good here.
swez on 06/1/2007 07:35:04
Oh yeah, these are strong SPL subs and don't need huge power amps to drive them to high SPL levels. Their efficiency rating is one of the highest I have seen in car subs for a long time.
I have an older pair of Soundstream SPL10's (4+4 DVC's) and they do sound off good at 500 watts RMS or a tad more. These are rated at 92dB SPL @ 2.83 volts. That's kinda nice as it does not take a huge amp to get them up to solid SPL #'s.
If you are going for lots of deep bass SPL, use the larger ported enclosure design. I used sealed on mine and a "Qtc alignment" of 0.707. They go very low in this design, but a smaller box will be my next venture. (Qtc alignment of about 0.85 should do it)
Here's the spec sheets in .pdf file format. Use their recommendations on vented/ported enclosures for best results.
http://www.soundstream.com/manuals/2006/sbw/SPLX%20SUBWOOF.pdf
Swez
PS The specs rate this sub at 89dB SPL @ 2.83 volts. That is still a very efficient sub number compared to most in this class that are typically 83 - 86dB SPL @ 1 watt.
ace23 on 06/2/2007 08:55:11
thanks for the info from the looks of the things this is gonna prolly be my choice in subs. thanks for all the help
swez on 06/2/2007 21:18:57
Sure thing.... and would you mind helping out our site with a modest donation? Our summer reseves are getting a bit low and we are funded by user donatations and advertising links.
Look below and you will see the funds we have on hand to date. The site cost is about $60.00/mo. Total funds in reserve are only $107.50 now. A modest donation from our satisfied readers would be a big help.
Thanks and good luck with your rig,
Swez
ace23 on 06/8/2007 23:32:39
is there any other way to make a donation since i dont have a credit card and i only have a debit card i dunno if it would work or not
swez on 06/9/2007 05:31:45
Yes, at the bottom of this box is a larger green info box that says "Privacy Policy". Click on that and Walter Hargraves mailing addy will show up. He accepts cash checks and PayPal.
Swez
cplkittle on 06/9/2007 10:41:23
Quote from Swez:
PS The specs rate this sub at 89dB SPL @ 2.83 volts. That is still a very efficient sub number compared to most in this class that are typically 83 - 86dB SPL @ 1 watt.
a sub rated at 89dB @2.83v is the same as 86@1w1m.
I will try to find the article, but the conclusion was that testing at 60Hz @ 4ohms would produce twice the output when given 2.83v.
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