Allright i have 2 MA audio 1200xl Subs
[specs are]
[600wRMS 1200Max each] [4-ohm DVC each]
i am looking for an amp...I went to Crutchfield to look at wiring diagrams and found this as a possible setup.
(If this seems confusing pls say so and i will try to clarify)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2CHANNEL AMP
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?suboptions=2%2DChannel%5F2%2D4ohm%2DDVC&type=2%2DChannel
With the 2 channel setup i found a matching amp, i think...
Audiobahn A2300HCT..according to an ebay seller and the website below (as audiobahns website no longer lists their amps ...idiots) this amp will put out at [600w RMSx2 @2ohm stereo] .
(?Which would make this amp a good match for my subs correct?)
This is a website listing the stats of the amp...
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13506
SO...would this amp ...along wiht my subs wired this way..work for me?
IF NOT what amp would u reccomed for me ?
I would prefer not to strap two amps together ... i want jsut a single amp in my trunk.there is not much room the 12"subs take up most of the space allrdy...lol
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MONO AMP
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?suboptions=Mono%5F2%2D4ohm%2DDVC&type=mono
I have looked for an amp that would work and have been unable to find a mono class amp for these subs...mabey im not looking in the right spot or hard enough. idk
If someone happens to find a single mono amp that would work for these subs pls do tell GRIN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks in advance for all thoes who reply to this and are able to help me . your help is much appreciated and taken
Geldton
Replies (2)
swez on 05/24/2007 17:51:06
I'd avoid the Bahn amp like the plague bro... these amps are NOT competition quality and have been very problematic to serious bass applications.
In your case, a Class D amp that is 1 ohm stable and nets 1200-1500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm loads, would be the best choice. They are not cheap, but neither is that Bahn amp either. Let's see what's out there in a solid brand name amp in this power range:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18180
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18157
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16574
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16553
May be hard to find, but the Phoenix Gold Xenon 1200.1 is a solid performer too. This amp is rated at 1200 watts RMS @ 1 - 4 ohm loads. This is a gem if you can find one at a good price.
Tech Tip: Please note that these larger power amps put a pretty severe strain on stock electrical systems. Class D amps are typically about 80% efficient. (Draws 1000 watts, delivers 800 watts, 200 watts lost to heat) Class A/B type, 2 channel amps are typically under 65% efficient. Big losses to heat here. See the picture?
A 1200 watt RMS Class D amp will draw pretty close to 100 amperes of current at full power. Most GM cars in this vintage use a stock 105 A ALT. (That's the CS-130 series w/ peak output above 2000 RPM) A stronger ALT and perhaps a high CCA rated BAT are likely when using amps in this range.
FYI: Most cars need about 60 A's to operate the basic electricals in the car. A typical Factory ALT will deliver about 55 A's at idle speeds. Only when at cruising speeds, will the ALT deliver the full 105 A's mentioned. The battery makes up for the short fall initially, but it is very normal to get heeavy light dimming at low RPM's with larger amps like these.
There's more to share later. However, I want you to know that using large amps demand a strong electrical system to power them as well. Keep that well in mind as you plan your system and set aside some serious pocket change to get there.
Comments?
Swez
cplkittle on 05/25/2007 01:13:38
I just typed a huge reply, but I guess my 24 hours passed while I was typing, so I lost it. I clicked on make reply, but I had already been logged out.
Swez covered all the technical stuff, I just wanted to throw in a few more suggestions on amplifiers. and I think it is cool that you listed the color of your car as well SMILE
Diamond D5 1200.1 This is what I use. It is a 2005 model, but you may be able to find a new one somewhere out there. Very clean, very solid. 1200w RMS.
JBL 1200.1 Also a year or two old, but an amazing powerhouse amplifier. And for the cost, it is one of my favorites.
Powerbass XA-1500 A new company trying to make a name for theirselves. Very solid amp, lots of balls.
SHOP AROUND!!! I can't stress this enough. I found the powerbass amp online for $350 and $550 big difference huh? I don't know how people get away with it, but one place advertised the MSRP as $850. I know for a fact that the MSRP is $600 ( I sell these amps ).
[specs are]
[600wRMS 1200Max each] [4-ohm DVC each]
i am looking for an amp...I went to Crutchfield to look at wiring diagrams and found this as a possible setup.
(If this seems confusing pls say so and i will try to clarify)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
2CHANNEL AMP
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?suboptions=2%2DChannel%5F2%2D4ohm%2DDVC&type=2%2DChannel
With the 2 channel setup i found a matching amp, i think...
Audiobahn A2300HCT..according to an ebay seller and the website below (as audiobahns website no longer lists their amps ...idiots) this amp will put out at [600w RMSx2 @2ohm stereo] .
(?Which would make this amp a good match for my subs correct?)
This is a website listing the stats of the amp...
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=13506
SO...would this amp ...along wiht my subs wired this way..work for me?
IF NOT what amp would u reccomed for me ?
I would prefer not to strap two amps together ... i want jsut a single amp in my trunk.there is not much room the 12"subs take up most of the space allrdy...lol
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
MONO AMP
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningcenter/car/subwoofers_wiring.html?suboptions=Mono%5F2%2D4ohm%2DDVC&type=mono
I have looked for an amp that would work and have been unable to find a mono class amp for these subs...mabey im not looking in the right spot or hard enough. idk
If someone happens to find a single mono amp that would work for these subs pls do tell GRIN
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Thanks in advance for all thoes who reply to this and are able to help me . your help is much appreciated and taken
Geldton
Replies (2)
swez on 05/24/2007 17:51:06
I'd avoid the Bahn amp like the plague bro... these amps are NOT competition quality and have been very problematic to serious bass applications.
In your case, a Class D amp that is 1 ohm stable and nets 1200-1500 watts RMS @ 1 ohm loads, would be the best choice. They are not cheap, but neither is that Bahn amp either. Let's see what's out there in a solid brand name amp in this power range:
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18180
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=18157
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16574
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=16553
May be hard to find, but the Phoenix Gold Xenon 1200.1 is a solid performer too. This amp is rated at 1200 watts RMS @ 1 - 4 ohm loads. This is a gem if you can find one at a good price.
Tech Tip: Please note that these larger power amps put a pretty severe strain on stock electrical systems. Class D amps are typically about 80% efficient. (Draws 1000 watts, delivers 800 watts, 200 watts lost to heat) Class A/B type, 2 channel amps are typically under 65% efficient. Big losses to heat here. See the picture?
A 1200 watt RMS Class D amp will draw pretty close to 100 amperes of current at full power. Most GM cars in this vintage use a stock 105 A ALT. (That's the CS-130 series w/ peak output above 2000 RPM) A stronger ALT and perhaps a high CCA rated BAT are likely when using amps in this range.
FYI: Most cars need about 60 A's to operate the basic electricals in the car. A typical Factory ALT will deliver about 55 A's at idle speeds. Only when at cruising speeds, will the ALT deliver the full 105 A's mentioned. The battery makes up for the short fall initially, but it is very normal to get heeavy light dimming at low RPM's with larger amps like these.
There's more to share later. However, I want you to know that using large amps demand a strong electrical system to power them as well. Keep that well in mind as you plan your system and set aside some serious pocket change to get there.
Comments?
Swez
cplkittle on 05/25/2007 01:13:38
I just typed a huge reply, but I guess my 24 hours passed while I was typing, so I lost it. I clicked on make reply, but I had already been logged out.
Swez covered all the technical stuff, I just wanted to throw in a few more suggestions on amplifiers. and I think it is cool that you listed the color of your car as well SMILE
Diamond D5 1200.1 This is what I use. It is a 2005 model, but you may be able to find a new one somewhere out there. Very clean, very solid. 1200w RMS.
JBL 1200.1 Also a year or two old, but an amazing powerhouse amplifier. And for the cost, it is one of my favorites.
Powerbass XA-1500 A new company trying to make a name for theirselves. Very solid amp, lots of balls.
SHOP AROUND!!! I can't stress this enough. I found the powerbass amp online for $350 and $550 big difference huh? I don't know how people get away with it, but one place advertised the MSRP as $850. I know for a fact that the MSRP is $600 ( I sell these amps ).
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