Thought it would be a good idea to start a new topic as I document the construction of this box to avoid paging through a hundred posts. Victor thanks for the updated format for this unique design. I started the construction today and I must say building this box is will take a few sessions.
Victor the base, trap sides and baffle make sence but the top piece at 6X32 did not make sence to us. We developed our own angles to fit a top piece of 5x32 and it seams to fit well. We decided to utalize the 1" MDF for 2 each braces instead of one 1.5". Is it ok to mount the sub center and use 2each trap braces as you have designed on each side of the sub?
I figured our internal volume would be around 2.85cf and a couple pieces of wood maybe 4x10 out of 1" MDF would bring it down a little more.
We were only able to cut our pieces including braces(very time consuming to jig out windows in the bracing) and dry fit box. All and all very tight a well fitting. We may need to shim a brace at the top when it is time to glue box. Her are a couple pics.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/?action=view¤t=DSCN0297.jpg
Next phase I will take many more pictures
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/DSCN0295.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/DSCN0294.jpg
I will be at it next week after this crazy weekend at work.
D
Replies (24)
Victor on 05/23/2007 00:07:41
You right 5" x 32" would become the top piece...
Its perfectly alright if you mount the sub in center and use 2 braces on both the sides...
a total of 4 braces in the enclosure... measure the center of the box and make the woofer cut out... once the woofer is in place measure the space left on both the sides...devide that space into 3 parts using 2 bracings on each side.... that would be a total of 4 bracings... would be a pretty solid box and also occupy some internal space...
Victor...
Just check for air leaks , rest all seems to be going perfectly fine.. thats some good wood work you have done there.. before u go ahead. since you have the outer form ready, try putting the box once into your vehicle and see how it sits there...
swez on 05/23/2007 04:29:39
Hey, this is looking pretty good already. Agree about the braces to beef up the sub baffle as well. A few filler boards would be useful to not only brace, but also bring the internal dimensions down to your target volume. (2.7 ft^3 +/- 0.2ft^3)
Each 4" x 13" x 1" board will net 0.03 ft^3 of displacement.
Also, after the dry fit is done and all is well, glue it up nice and tight, seal the inner seams and break out the router and/or a belt sander to round off and smooth out the overlapping edges. If there are nails or screws in those areas, either countersink them deep or remove and puddy them in as the glue is really the main bonding element here.
You and your buddy do nice work and this has been a very good learning experience for many as well. (Me included) Nice job so far!
How about a few more pics of the inside of this box and internal braces after the sub hole is cut out? This would be very helpful to others that want to see how this was done. That sub looks awesome too.
Swez
PS Pretty time consuming box design huh? Nothing close to easy as a standard rectangle or cube type design. How heavy do you think this box will be when done? (+ 90 lbs?) SMILE
Swez
jamesp on 05/23/2007 08:18:43
90 pounds is probably pretty close. I depends on which density of "medium" density fiberboard used...kind of seems like that the heavier wieght board would need to be called HDF, huh?
"D-man, you might need a pair of air shocks on his Magnum after installing this box? 1" MDF weighs between 88 and 133 lbs per sheet."
Are you going to be able to get the box built with 1 sheet?It is looking good. Good and heavy too..The air shock comment was a joke..but it may be true..Good luck
demetman on 05/23/2007 09:01:47
Next round will produce pics of inside of the enclosure with the bracing(Victor I have 1 brace for each side of the sub totalling 2). Swez I will use a couple 4x13x1 pieces of wood which should get me down to around 2.8cf. I can always add more to the interior if the sound is too boomy.
We have all of our cuts made and used most of one sheet of 1"MDF. This stuff is a beast and cutting windows out of the internal braces with a jig saw took 45min per brace. Wood weight is around 75# plus 36# sub,glue and screws.
I'll keep you guys updated.
D
swez on 06/2/2007 20:30:35
Hey D-man, how is this new enclosure turning out for you?
Swez
demetman on 06/3/2007 00:11:52
Swez, I have been very busy with work and had to put this project aside this week. I will resume the box construction on Tues and hopefully will finish some time the following week. Looks like 10-15 more hours to finish this one up. Will certainly keep you guys updated as things progress.
D
swez on 06/4/2007 08:37:50
Cool there D-man. I am looking forward to your comments on this new sub system. I hope it delivers the bass you crave and then some! From all the details we have gone through on your system, I really hope this sub fills the bill. When you can, as you can... get er done and fill us in on the details. CLAP
Swez
PS Thanks to your contribution, I now have a new Okuma SLV 5/6 fly reel in hand. HAPPY ($48.00 shipped from a guy on e-bay) It came just in time too as my +30 year old Cardinal 178 is wearing out. (The inner spool bushing is worn out and is sloppy in the frame) SAD Fortunately, I do have a spare spool and can use it as a backup as needed. SMILE
Thank you for the pleasure your personal donation has provided. I really like the feel of this new Okuma reel. It has a large arbor, lots of line capacity for the backing and wonderful drag features. Can't wait to try it out this week. CLAP CLAP
demetman on 06/6/2007 00:14:03
Hey there Swez, I'm happy to have assisted in the funding of that new Okuma fly reel. Hope it brings many days of fun for you as you certainly deserve it.
I was able to put a couple of hours into the box construction today before work and was able to clean up some panels and screw it all together for a dry fit. The main issue we need to address are some small gaps where panels meet. For example there is a 1/16" gap where the front baffle meets the bottom base board the length of the box. There will also be a small gap on the top panel piece where the braces meet the top. My buddy has some heavy duty flooring adhesive material that cures solid as rock in 24hrs time. Could we use this material to fill any voids or do you have a reccomendation? I will also be using a silicone bead on all seams inside and out to make sure an air tight environment has been achieved.
Other than these gap issues the box is looking sweet! We set it in the trunk of my car and with a 1/2" carpeted tray it will fit under my trunk cover and take up almost half the space of the W7. Oh, we are screwing every 3" on the panels, is this acceptable to achieve a tight bond when glued? Thanks for your coments.
D
swez on 06/6/2007 07:27:35
Yes, all this is good as mentioned. The screw placements of every 3" is a bit overkill as the glue does all the work and the screws just hold things in place mechanically until the glue sets up. But since it's been done, so be it.
As for the gaps, a good sealing adhesive inside the box seams will be good to seal any air gaps. (good up to 1/4" gaps) For the outside of the box, use something that is sandable if needed. (Bondo, drywall patch or wood puddy all work very well in most cases)
I have often found after the glue sets up and I break out the router/sander and clean up the overlaps, the gaps often go away. If it looks like that will not happen here, use a little bondo/wood puddy to patch up the external gaps. After it cures, it is sandable too. If you carpet the box when finished, the patches are invisible.
FYI: Avoid using silicone on the outside parts of the box. It will not sand well. Sandable fillers are better for the outside of the box and silicone is great for sealing air leaks inside the box. If you want an air tight seal where the sub lip attaches to the box, use a foam-based tape mounted to the under lip of the sub.
Swez
PS I went out fishing on Monday night to try this new Okuma reel. Mang, it is smooth as silk, has a very nice finish and the large/wide arbor amd spool flange pulls in line at 9 inches per revolution.
To give you an idea how anxious I was, it was raining that night and I got soaked pretty good. But so what... I managed a few small Rock Bass anyway and had a change of dry clothes when I wrapped up at 10:30 PM. I saw no Browns or Rainbow trout in this stretch of the river tonight. But will try this rig out on a lake with some nice bass in it soon.
You have blessed me and I am a very HAPPY camper. I hope my efforts have blessed you as well. CLAP The simple pleasures in life are indeed the best. COFFEE
demetman on 06/9/2007 01:02:42
Victor or Swez, could you guys help me determine the internal volume of this box? After reviewing the steps outlined to build this box it looks like 4 internal braces were used to calculate internal volume. I used 2 internal braces (cut out like Victor's diagram) and the sub will mount in the center of the enclosure. In the thread "Good by 12W7" Victor states an internal volume of 3.4 cf minus sub displacement and bracing should net closr to 3cf.
I will be adding 4x13x1 pieces of MDF to reduce the internal volume by 0.03cf per piece. If you guys could help me determine internal volume and and how much displacement I need to get to reccomended specs(2.7cf).
Thanks guys, will be at it again Sun late night after work.
D
swez on 06/9/2007 09:39:43
D,
There's an easy way to figure out internal volumn of a box by filling it with packing peanuts. Once the box is fully stuffed with peanuts, get a 12" x 12" x 12" (1ft^3) card board box and empty the peanuts. Just count how many fills of the 1ft^3 you get and then measure the last fill to a given depth. (I would expect a bit over 3.3 full cubic feet in peanuts)
Although the method seems crude, it's accuracy has a margin of error of about 3%. Not too bad. The smaller the peanuts used, the greater the accuracy of the measurement.
We already know the sub displacement is 0.15 ft^3. That is the only variable the peanuts will not displace. Once you know the gross displacement inside the box, just subtract the sub and that will tell us how many boards to add as filler.
What say you?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/9/2007 09:55:23
Wow, that is one sweet box measuring method there. Suprised I never thought of anything like that. Time to measure my boxes.........
demetman on 06/10/2007 23:51:57
Peanuts it is! I'll report back middle of this week with results. Actually, I'm doing some work on this thing tomorrow night so I'll post then.
D
swez on 06/11/2007 11:18:35
Another option is to use water and line the box with a heavy duty trash bag, (That will not leak to tear) and pour in your water, then measure the amount of water it takes to fill the bag inside the box.
According to my staff statistician, Marge Inoferor, this method is accurate to about 1%. Using a 2 liter pop container as your measuring dispenser, 1 ft^3 = 28.32 liters of water. (2 liters = 0.070 ft^3)
If you measure carefully how many liters of water it take to fill the box volumn, this will give a very accurate measurement.
Tech Tip: Water and MDF do not work well together. If using water as your medium, if any water gets on the MDF, break out a fan and dry the wood ASAP. Water will also break down most water based glues and adhesives if they contact each other for more than a few minutes.
Either method will work, but more care is needed when dealing with water than packing peanuts.
Swez
30Hertz on 06/11/2007 11:55:53
I prefer to use the tried and true method of 'how many midgets can fit in the enclosure'.
Find some midgets or dwarfs. Pack the box with the midgets till you cant fit anymore. Make sure you pack them tight because they tend to not get into the tight areas around the corners so your measurements will be off.
Each midget is approx. .5^ft.
This method is similar to the 'how many clowns you can fit in a car' method the circius uses to find the internal volume of the show cars they use.
Let me know how it works out
-30
swez on 06/11/2007 12:57:43
I was once a clown in the trunk of a car. We drove through a shopping mall one night just before closing and I was banging on the trunk and making one hella lot of noise too. That was some 35 years ago when trucks were huge and I was a mere 140 lbs soaking wet.
Oh to be so young and care free again... (Or is that foolish to consider as a 51 year old kid?) LOL
Swez
PS Youre at it early today 30 Hz. I take it you got a good nights rest?
30Hertz on 06/11/2007 14:17:47
I got to work early today haha. Didnt get much sleep sad to say. The GF dragged me to a party with her sister after I got outa work. So two six packs of Bass later I finally got some sleep around 4am. Got up at 7 and here I am.
Back in the day a buddy of mine and me got the bright idea (while drinking) for us to rent a bannana suit...and a gorilla suit and go hiking up by the lake. It was fun but way dumb and a waste of $$ since there werent enough hikers up there to make it funny for us.
Goodtimes. Man I'm starting to sound old.
-30
jamesp on 06/11/2007 14:41:39
1ft³ of water = 7.48 gallons so if 2 midgets = 1 ft³ you can save time on large enclosures by filling it w/ migets to near capacity then using the water to get the final top off.
Remember a large enclosure of say 3.5 ft³ will wiegh 7.48gal/ft³ x 8.34 lbs/gal x 3.5 ft³ = 218.34 lbs when full so if you can find some lightwieght midgets it may be easier to deal with.
Id stick with the peanuts because midgets love em...or because it will be easier to empty the box when done.
swez on 06/13/2007 20:59:38
Any updates to share with the CK crew there D-man?
Swez
demetman on 06/13/2007 23:14:32
Hey, I'm a midget and that's not nice! Just kidding. I was able to squeeze in a couple of (semi productive) hours last night. We had a major set back by cutting the hole to mount the sub 1/8" to big and having to scrap the front baffle all together. This box is proving to be quite a project and is taking MUCH more time than expected.
We recovered this morning, cut a new baffle, glued sides, braces and rear panel. After recutting the baffle and making the cutout for the sub we called it a day. Sub now fits snug and should allow for T-Nuts with ample surface area to mount. Things will be very tight but I think it will work.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/?action=view¤t=DSCN0302.jpg
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/?action=view¤t=DSCN0300.jpg
As for peanuts, I bought some from Staples but opted not to use them. $20 for 4cf is super expensive and they are the bigger ones so getting an accurate measurment in highly unlikely. I'm going to assume from Victor's box plans the internal volume is around 3cf. I guess I will add 2each 4x13x1" pieces of wood to the box to shave off 0.06cf yeilding an internal volume of 2.94cf and call it a day. More wood can be added through the sub cutout after completion if the internal volume needs to be reduced right? More updates as I find time.
D
swez on 06/14/2007 03:43:25
Yes, I see your point and adding more internal boards are always an option as needed.
This is a pretty nice looking box you guys have built so far. I like the way he did the braces and by the looks of them, the internal volume may actually be smaller than originally estimated by using that design of bracing. You'll know if more internal boards are needed if the bass sounds boomy or poorly defined bass is noted.
Tech tip: You may want to hold off on glueing the new front baffle board until the sub is installed and it has broken in for a time. Then you will know how much board to add later. (If any)
Try your best to keep this all in perspective eh? The time crunch is working against you now with the work schedule and your busy season is at hand. But in reality, you still have the JL sub and it's doing a good job right? That's much better than being stuck w/o any bass.
Hang in there as some projects often have more snigglets then we anticipated, but we learn much more when faced with challenges that seem bigger then we can manage. When we feel bad about delays and various frustrations that block our goals, it does build patience and our resolve to complete the project no matter what the setbacks.
Hang in there partner,
Dave
PS My Mom had a saying about not sweating the small stuff. In fact, most things are just that... small stuff. She lived a full and active life until 80 because she could hold that perspective.
demetman on 07/11/2007 00:09:57
Hey guys, I have not been able to find any time to work on this box lately. I've ben swomped at work and may not find time to finish things up until Sept. I'll certainly update you guys when advancements permit.
D
jamesp on 07/11/2007 07:24:10
Dementman, did you take a certification exam for radiology back in May or am I dazed and confused as usual? Good to hear from you.
swez on 07/11/2007 08:30:58
That makes sense... after working with you on other projects in the past, this is just another cycle where we do what's most important, be thankful for what we have and gut it out until the end of the season.
Hang in there my friend... freedom will return in a few months, when the restaurant returns to post season hours. In the meantime, it's first things first. (Be glad you not the GM of this place. They don't have a life either) ;-)
Swez
Victor the base, trap sides and baffle make sence but the top piece at 6X32 did not make sence to us. We developed our own angles to fit a top piece of 5x32 and it seams to fit well. We decided to utalize the 1" MDF for 2 each braces instead of one 1.5". Is it ok to mount the sub center and use 2each trap braces as you have designed on each side of the sub?
I figured our internal volume would be around 2.85cf and a couple pieces of wood maybe 4x10 out of 1" MDF would bring it down a little more.
We were only able to cut our pieces including braces(very time consuming to jig out windows in the bracing) and dry fit box. All and all very tight a well fitting. We may need to shim a brace at the top when it is time to glue box. Her are a couple pics.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/?action=view¤t=DSCN0297.jpg
Next phase I will take many more pictures
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/DSCN0295.jpg
http://i183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/DSCN0294.jpg
I will be at it next week after this crazy weekend at work.
D
Replies (24)
Victor on 05/23/2007 00:07:41
You right 5" x 32" would become the top piece...
Its perfectly alright if you mount the sub in center and use 2 braces on both the sides...
a total of 4 braces in the enclosure... measure the center of the box and make the woofer cut out... once the woofer is in place measure the space left on both the sides...devide that space into 3 parts using 2 bracings on each side.... that would be a total of 4 bracings... would be a pretty solid box and also occupy some internal space...
Victor...
Just check for air leaks , rest all seems to be going perfectly fine.. thats some good wood work you have done there.. before u go ahead. since you have the outer form ready, try putting the box once into your vehicle and see how it sits there...
swez on 05/23/2007 04:29:39
Hey, this is looking pretty good already. Agree about the braces to beef up the sub baffle as well. A few filler boards would be useful to not only brace, but also bring the internal dimensions down to your target volume. (2.7 ft^3 +/- 0.2ft^3)
Each 4" x 13" x 1" board will net 0.03 ft^3 of displacement.
Also, after the dry fit is done and all is well, glue it up nice and tight, seal the inner seams and break out the router and/or a belt sander to round off and smooth out the overlapping edges. If there are nails or screws in those areas, either countersink them deep or remove and puddy them in as the glue is really the main bonding element here.
You and your buddy do nice work and this has been a very good learning experience for many as well. (Me included) Nice job so far!
How about a few more pics of the inside of this box and internal braces after the sub hole is cut out? This would be very helpful to others that want to see how this was done. That sub looks awesome too.
Swez
PS Pretty time consuming box design huh? Nothing close to easy as a standard rectangle or cube type design. How heavy do you think this box will be when done? (+ 90 lbs?) SMILE
Swez
jamesp on 05/23/2007 08:18:43
90 pounds is probably pretty close. I depends on which density of "medium" density fiberboard used...kind of seems like that the heavier wieght board would need to be called HDF, huh?
"D-man, you might need a pair of air shocks on his Magnum after installing this box? 1" MDF weighs between 88 and 133 lbs per sheet."
Are you going to be able to get the box built with 1 sheet?It is looking good. Good and heavy too..The air shock comment was a joke..but it may be true..Good luck
demetman on 05/23/2007 09:01:47
Next round will produce pics of inside of the enclosure with the bracing(Victor I have 1 brace for each side of the sub totalling 2). Swez I will use a couple 4x13x1 pieces of wood which should get me down to around 2.8cf. I can always add more to the interior if the sound is too boomy.
We have all of our cuts made and used most of one sheet of 1"MDF. This stuff is a beast and cutting windows out of the internal braces with a jig saw took 45min per brace. Wood weight is around 75# plus 36# sub,glue and screws.
I'll keep you guys updated.
D
swez on 06/2/2007 20:30:35
Hey D-man, how is this new enclosure turning out for you?
Swez
demetman on 06/3/2007 00:11:52
Swez, I have been very busy with work and had to put this project aside this week. I will resume the box construction on Tues and hopefully will finish some time the following week. Looks like 10-15 more hours to finish this one up. Will certainly keep you guys updated as things progress.
D
swez on 06/4/2007 08:37:50
Cool there D-man. I am looking forward to your comments on this new sub system. I hope it delivers the bass you crave and then some! From all the details we have gone through on your system, I really hope this sub fills the bill. When you can, as you can... get er done and fill us in on the details. CLAP
Swez
PS Thanks to your contribution, I now have a new Okuma SLV 5/6 fly reel in hand. HAPPY ($48.00 shipped from a guy on e-bay) It came just in time too as my +30 year old Cardinal 178 is wearing out. (The inner spool bushing is worn out and is sloppy in the frame) SAD Fortunately, I do have a spare spool and can use it as a backup as needed. SMILE
Thank you for the pleasure your personal donation has provided. I really like the feel of this new Okuma reel. It has a large arbor, lots of line capacity for the backing and wonderful drag features. Can't wait to try it out this week. CLAP CLAP
demetman on 06/6/2007 00:14:03
Hey there Swez, I'm happy to have assisted in the funding of that new Okuma fly reel. Hope it brings many days of fun for you as you certainly deserve it.
I was able to put a couple of hours into the box construction today before work and was able to clean up some panels and screw it all together for a dry fit. The main issue we need to address are some small gaps where panels meet. For example there is a 1/16" gap where the front baffle meets the bottom base board the length of the box. There will also be a small gap on the top panel piece where the braces meet the top. My buddy has some heavy duty flooring adhesive material that cures solid as rock in 24hrs time. Could we use this material to fill any voids or do you have a reccomendation? I will also be using a silicone bead on all seams inside and out to make sure an air tight environment has been achieved.
Other than these gap issues the box is looking sweet! We set it in the trunk of my car and with a 1/2" carpeted tray it will fit under my trunk cover and take up almost half the space of the W7. Oh, we are screwing every 3" on the panels, is this acceptable to achieve a tight bond when glued? Thanks for your coments.
D
swez on 06/6/2007 07:27:35
Yes, all this is good as mentioned. The screw placements of every 3" is a bit overkill as the glue does all the work and the screws just hold things in place mechanically until the glue sets up. But since it's been done, so be it.
As for the gaps, a good sealing adhesive inside the box seams will be good to seal any air gaps. (good up to 1/4" gaps) For the outside of the box, use something that is sandable if needed. (Bondo, drywall patch or wood puddy all work very well in most cases)
I have often found after the glue sets up and I break out the router/sander and clean up the overlaps, the gaps often go away. If it looks like that will not happen here, use a little bondo/wood puddy to patch up the external gaps. After it cures, it is sandable too. If you carpet the box when finished, the patches are invisible.
FYI: Avoid using silicone on the outside parts of the box. It will not sand well. Sandable fillers are better for the outside of the box and silicone is great for sealing air leaks inside the box. If you want an air tight seal where the sub lip attaches to the box, use a foam-based tape mounted to the under lip of the sub.
Swez
PS I went out fishing on Monday night to try this new Okuma reel. Mang, it is smooth as silk, has a very nice finish and the large/wide arbor amd spool flange pulls in line at 9 inches per revolution.
To give you an idea how anxious I was, it was raining that night and I got soaked pretty good. But so what... I managed a few small Rock Bass anyway and had a change of dry clothes when I wrapped up at 10:30 PM. I saw no Browns or Rainbow trout in this stretch of the river tonight. But will try this rig out on a lake with some nice bass in it soon.
You have blessed me and I am a very HAPPY camper. I hope my efforts have blessed you as well. CLAP The simple pleasures in life are indeed the best. COFFEE
demetman on 06/9/2007 01:02:42
Victor or Swez, could you guys help me determine the internal volume of this box? After reviewing the steps outlined to build this box it looks like 4 internal braces were used to calculate internal volume. I used 2 internal braces (cut out like Victor's diagram) and the sub will mount in the center of the enclosure. In the thread "Good by 12W7" Victor states an internal volume of 3.4 cf minus sub displacement and bracing should net closr to 3cf.
I will be adding 4x13x1 pieces of MDF to reduce the internal volume by 0.03cf per piece. If you guys could help me determine internal volume and and how much displacement I need to get to reccomended specs(2.7cf).
Thanks guys, will be at it again Sun late night after work.
D
swez on 06/9/2007 09:39:43
D,
There's an easy way to figure out internal volumn of a box by filling it with packing peanuts. Once the box is fully stuffed with peanuts, get a 12" x 12" x 12" (1ft^3) card board box and empty the peanuts. Just count how many fills of the 1ft^3 you get and then measure the last fill to a given depth. (I would expect a bit over 3.3 full cubic feet in peanuts)
Although the method seems crude, it's accuracy has a margin of error of about 3%. Not too bad. The smaller the peanuts used, the greater the accuracy of the measurement.
We already know the sub displacement is 0.15 ft^3. That is the only variable the peanuts will not displace. Once you know the gross displacement inside the box, just subtract the sub and that will tell us how many boards to add as filler.
What say you?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 06/9/2007 09:55:23
Wow, that is one sweet box measuring method there. Suprised I never thought of anything like that. Time to measure my boxes.........
demetman on 06/10/2007 23:51:57
Peanuts it is! I'll report back middle of this week with results. Actually, I'm doing some work on this thing tomorrow night so I'll post then.
D
swez on 06/11/2007 11:18:35
Another option is to use water and line the box with a heavy duty trash bag, (That will not leak to tear) and pour in your water, then measure the amount of water it takes to fill the bag inside the box.
According to my staff statistician, Marge Inoferor, this method is accurate to about 1%. Using a 2 liter pop container as your measuring dispenser, 1 ft^3 = 28.32 liters of water. (2 liters = 0.070 ft^3)
If you measure carefully how many liters of water it take to fill the box volumn, this will give a very accurate measurement.
Tech Tip: Water and MDF do not work well together. If using water as your medium, if any water gets on the MDF, break out a fan and dry the wood ASAP. Water will also break down most water based glues and adhesives if they contact each other for more than a few minutes.
Either method will work, but more care is needed when dealing with water than packing peanuts.
Swez
30Hertz on 06/11/2007 11:55:53
I prefer to use the tried and true method of 'how many midgets can fit in the enclosure'.
Find some midgets or dwarfs. Pack the box with the midgets till you cant fit anymore. Make sure you pack them tight because they tend to not get into the tight areas around the corners so your measurements will be off.
Each midget is approx. .5^ft.
This method is similar to the 'how many clowns you can fit in a car' method the circius uses to find the internal volume of the show cars they use.
Let me know how it works out
-30
swez on 06/11/2007 12:57:43
I was once a clown in the trunk of a car. We drove through a shopping mall one night just before closing and I was banging on the trunk and making one hella lot of noise too. That was some 35 years ago when trucks were huge and I was a mere 140 lbs soaking wet.
Oh to be so young and care free again... (Or is that foolish to consider as a 51 year old kid?) LOL
Swez
PS Youre at it early today 30 Hz. I take it you got a good nights rest?
30Hertz on 06/11/2007 14:17:47
I got to work early today haha. Didnt get much sleep sad to say. The GF dragged me to a party with her sister after I got outa work. So two six packs of Bass later I finally got some sleep around 4am. Got up at 7 and here I am.
Back in the day a buddy of mine and me got the bright idea (while drinking) for us to rent a bannana suit...and a gorilla suit and go hiking up by the lake. It was fun but way dumb and a waste of $$ since there werent enough hikers up there to make it funny for us.
Goodtimes. Man I'm starting to sound old.
-30
jamesp on 06/11/2007 14:41:39
1ft³ of water = 7.48 gallons so if 2 midgets = 1 ft³ you can save time on large enclosures by filling it w/ migets to near capacity then using the water to get the final top off.
Remember a large enclosure of say 3.5 ft³ will wiegh 7.48gal/ft³ x 8.34 lbs/gal x 3.5 ft³ = 218.34 lbs when full so if you can find some lightwieght midgets it may be easier to deal with.
Id stick with the peanuts because midgets love em...or because it will be easier to empty the box when done.
swez on 06/13/2007 20:59:38
Any updates to share with the CK crew there D-man?
Swez
demetman on 06/13/2007 23:14:32
Hey, I'm a midget and that's not nice! Just kidding. I was able to squeeze in a couple of (semi productive) hours last night. We had a major set back by cutting the hole to mount the sub 1/8" to big and having to scrap the front baffle all together. This box is proving to be quite a project and is taking MUCH more time than expected.
We recovered this morning, cut a new baffle, glued sides, braces and rear panel. After recutting the baffle and making the cutout for the sub we called it a day. Sub now fits snug and should allow for T-Nuts with ample surface area to mount. Things will be very tight but I think it will work.
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/?action=view¤t=DSCN0302.jpg
http://s183.photobucket.com/albums/x150/demetman/?action=view¤t=DSCN0300.jpg
As for peanuts, I bought some from Staples but opted not to use them. $20 for 4cf is super expensive and they are the bigger ones so getting an accurate measurment in highly unlikely. I'm going to assume from Victor's box plans the internal volume is around 3cf. I guess I will add 2each 4x13x1" pieces of wood to the box to shave off 0.06cf yeilding an internal volume of 2.94cf and call it a day. More wood can be added through the sub cutout after completion if the internal volume needs to be reduced right? More updates as I find time.
D
swez on 06/14/2007 03:43:25
Yes, I see your point and adding more internal boards are always an option as needed.
This is a pretty nice looking box you guys have built so far. I like the way he did the braces and by the looks of them, the internal volume may actually be smaller than originally estimated by using that design of bracing. You'll know if more internal boards are needed if the bass sounds boomy or poorly defined bass is noted.
Tech tip: You may want to hold off on glueing the new front baffle board until the sub is installed and it has broken in for a time. Then you will know how much board to add later. (If any)
Try your best to keep this all in perspective eh? The time crunch is working against you now with the work schedule and your busy season is at hand. But in reality, you still have the JL sub and it's doing a good job right? That's much better than being stuck w/o any bass.
Hang in there as some projects often have more snigglets then we anticipated, but we learn much more when faced with challenges that seem bigger then we can manage. When we feel bad about delays and various frustrations that block our goals, it does build patience and our resolve to complete the project no matter what the setbacks.
Hang in there partner,
Dave
PS My Mom had a saying about not sweating the small stuff. In fact, most things are just that... small stuff. She lived a full and active life until 80 because she could hold that perspective.
demetman on 07/11/2007 00:09:57
Hey guys, I have not been able to find any time to work on this box lately. I've ben swomped at work and may not find time to finish things up until Sept. I'll certainly update you guys when advancements permit.
D
jamesp on 07/11/2007 07:24:10
Dementman, did you take a certification exam for radiology back in May or am I dazed and confused as usual? Good to hear from you.
swez on 07/11/2007 08:30:58
That makes sense... after working with you on other projects in the past, this is just another cycle where we do what's most important, be thankful for what we have and gut it out until the end of the season.
Hang in there my friend... freedom will return in a few months, when the restaurant returns to post season hours. In the meantime, it's first things first. (Be glad you not the GM of this place. They don't have a life either) ;-)
Swez
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