I have a 1994 lincoln continental. The problem is that the dash lights and head lights keep dimin when my bass hits. I have a brand new car battery. and the system im workin with is 2 audiobahn ultra excursions model AW1205n series. Im pushin them with a Fusion 2000w mono block model PP-AM20001. I went to a local audio shop with my problem and they told me to try this Kinetik battery power cell. I bought it for like $200. it helps a little but not what i think it should. Do u think i should upgrade my alternator? WHAT SHOULD I DO????
Replies (11)
kirchatndftbl on 05/17/2007 17:19:57
upgrade to a HOalternator and do you have the big 3 upgrade yet???
Jo7Gle on 05/17/2007 17:20:13
Should I try to use a capacitor reather than this Kinetiks Power Cell. I was told it works better that 100 Caps. Has anyone else used these Kinetik batterys.
Jo7Gle on 05/17/2007 17:21:14
what do you mean the big 3 upgrade? Im kinda new at this
swez on 05/17/2007 18:11:56
Big 3 upgrade:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1#Post312025
The Kinetiks power cell is an excellent choice for large amp systems. Much better than any Cap on the market.
It seems you may need to have your present ALT tested to see what kind of output it can deliver. This is often free at most good autoparts stores that have portable volt/current testers. They can often test your ALT out in the parking lot or inside their garage. If the ALT cannot deliver a solid 100 A's at crusing RPM...(>2000 RPM) severe light dimming is often the result.
Since this amp is pretty strong, it is probably fused at 100 - 120 amps? I found the specs and it's rated at 1150 Wrms @ 1 ohm loads.
http://www.ryda.com.au/Fusion-PP-AM20001-Mono-Block-2000W-Car-Amplifier-p/ppam20001.htm
Also, what wire gage are you using to power this sub amp?
Swez
PS Welcome to CK!
Jo7Gle on 05/18/2007 09:32:10
Thanks Swez for the welcome. I see you guys here really help each other out.
The amp is fused at 100 amps and im also running a 300 watt (25 amp) fusion amp to my 6x9s. model EN-AM3002
On my wiring im running 0 g. from the + battery to my trunk where it hooks to the Kinetiks power cell then to a block that splits the wire into two 4 g. wire for both my amps. This is what i was told to do. Is it right?
On the BIG 3 note : I've already upgrade my Battery ground but I havent try the rest. I'll try it next.
I did go get my ALT. tested and it put out like 30 amp. So I now know that is my problem. For the type of system im runnin what type of ALT do you recommend? Is a standerd one from autozone good enough should I look at something better. I know the ones they have put off 130 amps but is that enough.
And i am runnin the subs at 1ohm.
Jo7Gle on 05/18/2007 09:38:18
I found that HO ALT. but its like $500 dollars. do you think its worth it or just find something else
I called a local audio shop and they said a new standard Alt. would be fine. but whats yur input on it?
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 05/18/2007 10:12:55
Same problem with my car.......
Personally, I think a good battery is better than a hundred caps. The big three is definitely a great way to go, and at least regrounding the battery. Stock battery grounds are often pathetic in nature, and will hinder all electronics from reaching max potential.
Is your battery in your trunk? That can complicate thinga a bit, but shoudn't hurt too bad. If a HO alt is used though, you would have to run some massive wire to your trunk though.
$500 seems like a cruncher for an alternator? Where did you get this price quote at? Motorcityreman has one for a much better $369.99 price tag for there top of the line 250 Amp alternator. I am not sure if it is the correct engine and the like so check it out
http://motorcityreman.com/tc-3g.html
That would be a great solution to your problem, and would probably work better that a thousand capacitorsGRIN
jamesp on 05/18/2007 10:52:43
The good thing is that the shop at least sold you the Kinetic battery Power Energy Cell instead of a cap. It will work well with your alternator upgrade.
Call around a few local auto electric shops and see if any are familiar with upgrading stock alternators for car audio. Your Lincoln should allow a direct bolt-on for the newer Ford 140 amp and will definitly use the 130 Amp Ford alt. Those can be rebuilt for quite a bit more power and they can put the amps in the RPM range down where you need it. The old Auto electric shop in my town is very familiar in rebuilds of stock units for audio upgrades. The owner said that this speciality niche had become a good part of his business. He said a lot of the chain auto parts store will sell an alt. with a lifetime warranty, knowing that 90% of them come back for warranty replacement. The catch is, the replacement alt. has only a 90 day warranty...that is BS.
30Hertz on 05/18/2007 16:51:10
Have you purchased the Kinetik yet? If so what model # do you have?
I am running a Kinetik HC2000 and love it. Ive ran optimas in the past but the Kinetik has over twice the cold cranking amps and is a beast to say the least. Right now I'm running 1500watts RMS on a stock alt with no light dimming.
Capacitors are pretty much useless. Their fancy yes, which is why we call them "Audio Jewelery". They might help with very minor dimming issues but generally a good battery with high cold cranking amps (CCAs) will be much better.
Who are you going through for your high output alternator? Stay away from Irragi alternators. I know numerous people who have had their products and most of them have broke within a short amount of time. I suggest Ohio Generators or Excessive Amperage Alternators. Do a google search for either one. I prefer Excessive Amperage since his prices are very reasonable and he is a very helpful guy. He quoted a 200amp alt with a custom bracket for my Toyota Tacoma at $350 shipped.
-30
Jo7Gle on 05/19/2007 13:45:59
I have the Kinetik HC 600 in my trunk ran off my new Duralast Gold (875 cold cranking amps) battery.
Ive went and had my Alt tested 4 times by different AutoZones and and Advance Auto stores. Each time I got a differnt answer. Two said it was bad. One said it was good and one said it was going bad. I think I might just be better off just buyin a new one.
what size Amp output should i go with? And can a higher Alt damage the car?
Anyone else know where I can get a good deal on a H P Alt.
swez on 05/19/2007 14:16:16
That's a good story... chance are good this ALT is on the hairy edge of bustin out soon. A lot depends on the skills of the guy running the test, the tools used and his motivations. (Commissioned sales?)
Figure with this large sub amp, you'll need about 175-200 amperes available to manage what was mentioned. The key is not only the max output ratings, (Above 2500 RPM) but also the idle output ratings too. Most OEM ALT's deliver about 50-60% of peak power at idle speeds. H.O. version are generally a bit higher. (60%+)
Stinger and Ohio Generator are very good suppliers, but tend to be a bit pricey too. I don't know anything about Excessive Amperage Alternators, but if 30 Hz says their good, I'll take his word on it. (He knows his stuff well)
I would contact Motorcityreman and get some info on what they offer for your car. Several guys here have used them with good reports back on service, performance and fair prices.
http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators.html
Swez
Replies (11)
kirchatndftbl on 05/17/2007 17:19:57
upgrade to a HOalternator and do you have the big 3 upgrade yet???
Jo7Gle on 05/17/2007 17:20:13
Should I try to use a capacitor reather than this Kinetiks Power Cell. I was told it works better that 100 Caps. Has anyone else used these Kinetik batterys.
Jo7Gle on 05/17/2007 17:21:14
what do you mean the big 3 upgrade? Im kinda new at this
swez on 05/17/2007 18:11:56
Big 3 upgrade:
http://www.sounddomain.com/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/312025/page/1#Post312025
The Kinetiks power cell is an excellent choice for large amp systems. Much better than any Cap on the market.
It seems you may need to have your present ALT tested to see what kind of output it can deliver. This is often free at most good autoparts stores that have portable volt/current testers. They can often test your ALT out in the parking lot or inside their garage. If the ALT cannot deliver a solid 100 A's at crusing RPM...(>2000 RPM) severe light dimming is often the result.
Since this amp is pretty strong, it is probably fused at 100 - 120 amps? I found the specs and it's rated at 1150 Wrms @ 1 ohm loads.
http://www.ryda.com.au/Fusion-PP-AM20001-Mono-Block-2000W-Car-Amplifier-p/ppam20001.htm
Also, what wire gage are you using to power this sub amp?
Swez
PS Welcome to CK!
Jo7Gle on 05/18/2007 09:32:10
Thanks Swez for the welcome. I see you guys here really help each other out.
The amp is fused at 100 amps and im also running a 300 watt (25 amp) fusion amp to my 6x9s. model EN-AM3002
On my wiring im running 0 g. from the + battery to my trunk where it hooks to the Kinetiks power cell then to a block that splits the wire into two 4 g. wire for both my amps. This is what i was told to do. Is it right?
On the BIG 3 note : I've already upgrade my Battery ground but I havent try the rest. I'll try it next.
I did go get my ALT. tested and it put out like 30 amp. So I now know that is my problem. For the type of system im runnin what type of ALT do you recommend? Is a standerd one from autozone good enough should I look at something better. I know the ones they have put off 130 amps but is that enough.
And i am runnin the subs at 1ohm.
Jo7Gle on 05/18/2007 09:38:18
I found that HO ALT. but its like $500 dollars. do you think its worth it or just find something else
I called a local audio shop and they said a new standard Alt. would be fine. but whats yur input on it?
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 05/18/2007 10:12:55
Same problem with my car.......
Personally, I think a good battery is better than a hundred caps. The big three is definitely a great way to go, and at least regrounding the battery. Stock battery grounds are often pathetic in nature, and will hinder all electronics from reaching max potential.
Is your battery in your trunk? That can complicate thinga a bit, but shoudn't hurt too bad. If a HO alt is used though, you would have to run some massive wire to your trunk though.
$500 seems like a cruncher for an alternator? Where did you get this price quote at? Motorcityreman has one for a much better $369.99 price tag for there top of the line 250 Amp alternator. I am not sure if it is the correct engine and the like so check it out
http://motorcityreman.com/tc-3g.html
That would be a great solution to your problem, and would probably work better that a thousand capacitorsGRIN
jamesp on 05/18/2007 10:52:43
The good thing is that the shop at least sold you the Kinetic battery Power Energy Cell instead of a cap. It will work well with your alternator upgrade.
Call around a few local auto electric shops and see if any are familiar with upgrading stock alternators for car audio. Your Lincoln should allow a direct bolt-on for the newer Ford 140 amp and will definitly use the 130 Amp Ford alt. Those can be rebuilt for quite a bit more power and they can put the amps in the RPM range down where you need it. The old Auto electric shop in my town is very familiar in rebuilds of stock units for audio upgrades. The owner said that this speciality niche had become a good part of his business. He said a lot of the chain auto parts store will sell an alt. with a lifetime warranty, knowing that 90% of them come back for warranty replacement. The catch is, the replacement alt. has only a 90 day warranty...that is BS.
30Hertz on 05/18/2007 16:51:10
Have you purchased the Kinetik yet? If so what model # do you have?
I am running a Kinetik HC2000 and love it. Ive ran optimas in the past but the Kinetik has over twice the cold cranking amps and is a beast to say the least. Right now I'm running 1500watts RMS on a stock alt with no light dimming.
Capacitors are pretty much useless. Their fancy yes, which is why we call them "Audio Jewelery". They might help with very minor dimming issues but generally a good battery with high cold cranking amps (CCAs) will be much better.
Who are you going through for your high output alternator? Stay away from Irragi alternators. I know numerous people who have had their products and most of them have broke within a short amount of time. I suggest Ohio Generators or Excessive Amperage Alternators. Do a google search for either one. I prefer Excessive Amperage since his prices are very reasonable and he is a very helpful guy. He quoted a 200amp alt with a custom bracket for my Toyota Tacoma at $350 shipped.
-30
Jo7Gle on 05/19/2007 13:45:59
I have the Kinetik HC 600 in my trunk ran off my new Duralast Gold (875 cold cranking amps) battery.
Ive went and had my Alt tested 4 times by different AutoZones and and Advance Auto stores. Each time I got a differnt answer. Two said it was bad. One said it was good and one said it was going bad. I think I might just be better off just buyin a new one.
what size Amp output should i go with? And can a higher Alt damage the car?
Anyone else know where I can get a good deal on a H P Alt.
swez on 05/19/2007 14:16:16
That's a good story... chance are good this ALT is on the hairy edge of bustin out soon. A lot depends on the skills of the guy running the test, the tools used and his motivations. (Commissioned sales?)
Figure with this large sub amp, you'll need about 175-200 amperes available to manage what was mentioned. The key is not only the max output ratings, (Above 2500 RPM) but also the idle output ratings too. Most OEM ALT's deliver about 50-60% of peak power at idle speeds. H.O. version are generally a bit higher. (60%+)
Stinger and Ohio Generator are very good suppliers, but tend to be a bit pricey too. I don't know anything about Excessive Amperage Alternators, but if 30 Hz says their good, I'll take his word on it. (He knows his stuff well)
I would contact Motorcityreman and get some info on what they offer for your car. Several guys here have used them with good reports back on service, performance and fair prices.
http://www.motorcityreman.com/high-amp-alternators.html
Swez
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