Yo fellas i bought a pair of audiopipe subs recently the TXX-BC12. dere 700w rms each dual 4ohm.
has any one here ever used audio pipe? is this stuff good?
i jus saw it and it looked good. the specs and stuf looked aight too! so lemme kno..
im doing an upgrade on my system im gonna run these 12's on a soundstream pca1500d already bought it.
and 2 audiofonics amps 4 midrange. a 600w rms 2 ch 4 lows and midbass
and a smaller 300rms 2ch on 4 phoenix gold 6" components an tweets.
also i hav a pioneer hu, a soundstream pre amp and a blitz audio crossover. 2 batts and a 5 farad spl cap.
im planning to go up against some major competition. basically in the category of single 15's and dual 12's.
kicker, mmats, atomic, pioneer, cliff designs etc.
DO I HAVE A CHANCE?
lol.
also!! will wiring these subs straight parallel to this mono amp 2 net at 1ohm damage the subs?
1 thing i dont understand my subs are 700 rms does this mean each coil can handle 700rms or 350 each?
so when connecting it to my 1500rms amp does this mean each coil is getting 1500rms or is this power shared equally among these subs.. THINK
Replies (11)
trunkisloud on 05/4/2007 22:06:13
ive wondered about these myself...although ive seen a few pairs of the eyecandy series on ebay pretty cheap...so im curious about them as well....
30Hertz on 05/5/2007 04:00:09
I havent heard anything really positive about audiopipe really so I cant offer an unbiased opinion.
Just make sure you read and study the specs fine so you can design the system to perform good. Install is 90% of how the system sounds. The other 10% is the equipment. Yes equipment does matter but in the end, if you have solid equipment in a improper setup it will sound like crap. If you have not so solid equipment in a proper set up it will sound fine.
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-30
swez on 05/5/2007 09:16:06
Agreed... and if you wire your subs in full parallel, the net ohmic load is 1 ohm. The amp needs to be 1 ohm stable too. (4/4 = 1 ohm) Yes, if a DVC is rated at 700 Wrms, each coil gets 350 Wrms.
Have read mixed reviews on Pipe subs too. Much of it will depend on the enclosure used and install practices. As much as possible, follow the Mfg's recommendations.
Swez
Ash on 05/6/2007 07:24:21
I agree... There was a shop here that was using Audiopipe as the main line that they sold. I visited there often to scope out the brand, but they never had set an decent demo up in the shop or auto??!!! Needless to say, stock always low and mainly consisted of the lower line. Eventually they went out of business. A fault of the shop I'd say.
My concerns was how true to spec were they? A good shop would have fully tested them to be sure of what they were pushing. Maybe then their confidence would have been there to advertise a little better.
markz on 05/9/2007 22:03:40
yo pepes wel you'll been dissin my audiopipe..
its cool.. installed these babys yesterday on my new soundstream amp pca1500d 1500w rms mono @ 1 ohm.
the subs themselves are 700wrms each as i mentioned earlier dual 4.
so i think this is a pretty good combo.
these things are shaking the daylights out of everything!
VERY LOUD! when the bass is at quarter of what it can safely be boosted my ears hurt my rear view mirror gets quite a bit out of control (any suggestions for help wtih this. very annoyin.. the mirror i mean) even my hair vibrates..
tripped off a car alarm with the volume where i could hardly hear it..
so im guessin all this is good rite?
30Hertz on 05/9/2007 22:35:27
Bass Boost is not something to use to get the output you want. If done enough, or to much It can clip the signal and poof, there goes ur drivers and possibly the amplifier.
We're not "dissin" the equipment. Works fine for some people but the build quality isnt going to be the same as other brands out there.
As far as the rear view mirror goes, not really any way to solve that problem. My old setup broke off the mirror and flexed the back of the cab a good >1/2". I could set quarters and a soda on the top of the cab and with a single burp they'd fly off and bounce in the air even with 200sq ft of sound deadning material in the truck.
If you get to many rattles, try sound deadning the car.
Good Luck in competition. Don't go in like your a billy bad*edit*. You will loose respect and any chance of any of the other competitors giving you advice and help if anything should arise.
What type of enclosure are you running? Ported or Sealed? If ported what HZ are you tuned? Also be careful with how you set your gains on your amplifier so you dont clip the signal that way either.
-30
markz on 05/9/2007 22:49:50
naa.. its not bass boost im playing with its gain.. my crossover has a remote gain control so i use that to adjust the amount of bass i want at a particular point in time..
the only bass boost thats really turned up is the one on the amp itself and if it is not adjusted i really dont get what im looking for bass wise its kinda low..
enclosure.. slot ported. 2.25 cuft per chamber tuned at 38hz i built this enclosure 2 specs for a pair of kicker i had before but i think they are good for these subs dont you?
30Hertz on 05/9/2007 22:57:33
I think you have things a bit confused.
The one on your amplifier is going to be the Physical Gain nob itself. Generally any type of additional remote is going to be for a Bass Boost (they also call it Remote Gain sometimes).
If the specs match the current subs you have then you should be fine. Do you have a subsonic filter setup on the amp to filter out any music below 38hz?
markz on 05/9/2007 23:12:11
no no.. i know what the gain on the amp is.. theres a seperate bass boost knob on the amp that can boost the entire frequency band up to 18dB if i attach the amps remote bass boost it will overide this one and that one will become the bass boost knob instead..
now my crossover has a remote adjustment for the bass as well but u kno that crossovers have 2 basic controls for each pair of channels a cut off slope adjust and a gain adjust now if i connect my remote control for my bass on the crossover what it does is overrides the gain control on the crossover and it becomes the gain control... theres also a bass boost on the crossover but i dont use it to boost anything..
and yes i do have a subsonic filter cutting of frequencies below th 38hz
30Hertz on 05/9/2007 23:27:04
I'm not really following you. Crossovers are set once, and left alone unless you have to retune. You have two types of Crossovers. A high pass (which can be used for driving full range speakers, or a SubSonicFilter) and a low pass that is used when installing subwoofers.
Please explain more in detail and break it down so its easy to follow. Or take pictures =)
markz on 05/9/2007 23:46:47
ok i see u are not understanding me..
what i am saying is that the gain for the subwoofer on the crossover comes with a remote so that when the remote is plugged into the crossover the subwoofer gain on the crossover is defeated an the remote then becomes the gain control. its the blitz BZX-3
has any one here ever used audio pipe? is this stuff good?
i jus saw it and it looked good. the specs and stuf looked aight too! so lemme kno..
im doing an upgrade on my system im gonna run these 12's on a soundstream pca1500d already bought it.
and 2 audiofonics amps 4 midrange. a 600w rms 2 ch 4 lows and midbass
and a smaller 300rms 2ch on 4 phoenix gold 6" components an tweets.
also i hav a pioneer hu, a soundstream pre amp and a blitz audio crossover. 2 batts and a 5 farad spl cap.
im planning to go up against some major competition. basically in the category of single 15's and dual 12's.
kicker, mmats, atomic, pioneer, cliff designs etc.
DO I HAVE A CHANCE?
lol.
also!! will wiring these subs straight parallel to this mono amp 2 net at 1ohm damage the subs?
1 thing i dont understand my subs are 700 rms does this mean each coil can handle 700rms or 350 each?
so when connecting it to my 1500rms amp does this mean each coil is getting 1500rms or is this power shared equally among these subs.. THINK
Replies (11)
trunkisloud on 05/4/2007 22:06:13
ive wondered about these myself...although ive seen a few pairs of the eyecandy series on ebay pretty cheap...so im curious about them as well....
30Hertz on 05/5/2007 04:00:09
I havent heard anything really positive about audiopipe really so I cant offer an unbiased opinion.
Just make sure you read and study the specs fine so you can design the system to perform good. Install is 90% of how the system sounds. The other 10% is the equipment. Yes equipment does matter but in the end, if you have solid equipment in a improper setup it will sound like crap. If you have not so solid equipment in a proper set up it will sound fine.
-
-30
swez on 05/5/2007 09:16:06
Agreed... and if you wire your subs in full parallel, the net ohmic load is 1 ohm. The amp needs to be 1 ohm stable too. (4/4 = 1 ohm) Yes, if a DVC is rated at 700 Wrms, each coil gets 350 Wrms.
Have read mixed reviews on Pipe subs too. Much of it will depend on the enclosure used and install practices. As much as possible, follow the Mfg's recommendations.
Swez
Ash on 05/6/2007 07:24:21
I agree... There was a shop here that was using Audiopipe as the main line that they sold. I visited there often to scope out the brand, but they never had set an decent demo up in the shop or auto??!!! Needless to say, stock always low and mainly consisted of the lower line. Eventually they went out of business. A fault of the shop I'd say.
My concerns was how true to spec were they? A good shop would have fully tested them to be sure of what they were pushing. Maybe then their confidence would have been there to advertise a little better.
markz on 05/9/2007 22:03:40
yo pepes wel you'll been dissin my audiopipe..
its cool.. installed these babys yesterday on my new soundstream amp pca1500d 1500w rms mono @ 1 ohm.
the subs themselves are 700wrms each as i mentioned earlier dual 4.
so i think this is a pretty good combo.
these things are shaking the daylights out of everything!
VERY LOUD! when the bass is at quarter of what it can safely be boosted my ears hurt my rear view mirror gets quite a bit out of control (any suggestions for help wtih this. very annoyin.. the mirror i mean) even my hair vibrates..
tripped off a car alarm with the volume where i could hardly hear it..
so im guessin all this is good rite?
30Hertz on 05/9/2007 22:35:27
Bass Boost is not something to use to get the output you want. If done enough, or to much It can clip the signal and poof, there goes ur drivers and possibly the amplifier.
We're not "dissin" the equipment. Works fine for some people but the build quality isnt going to be the same as other brands out there.
As far as the rear view mirror goes, not really any way to solve that problem. My old setup broke off the mirror and flexed the back of the cab a good >1/2". I could set quarters and a soda on the top of the cab and with a single burp they'd fly off and bounce in the air even with 200sq ft of sound deadning material in the truck.
If you get to many rattles, try sound deadning the car.
Good Luck in competition. Don't go in like your a billy bad*edit*. You will loose respect and any chance of any of the other competitors giving you advice and help if anything should arise.
What type of enclosure are you running? Ported or Sealed? If ported what HZ are you tuned? Also be careful with how you set your gains on your amplifier so you dont clip the signal that way either.
-30
markz on 05/9/2007 22:49:50
naa.. its not bass boost im playing with its gain.. my crossover has a remote gain control so i use that to adjust the amount of bass i want at a particular point in time..
the only bass boost thats really turned up is the one on the amp itself and if it is not adjusted i really dont get what im looking for bass wise its kinda low..
enclosure.. slot ported. 2.25 cuft per chamber tuned at 38hz i built this enclosure 2 specs for a pair of kicker i had before but i think they are good for these subs dont you?
30Hertz on 05/9/2007 22:57:33
I think you have things a bit confused.
The one on your amplifier is going to be the Physical Gain nob itself. Generally any type of additional remote is going to be for a Bass Boost (they also call it Remote Gain sometimes).
If the specs match the current subs you have then you should be fine. Do you have a subsonic filter setup on the amp to filter out any music below 38hz?
markz on 05/9/2007 23:12:11
no no.. i know what the gain on the amp is.. theres a seperate bass boost knob on the amp that can boost the entire frequency band up to 18dB if i attach the amps remote bass boost it will overide this one and that one will become the bass boost knob instead..
now my crossover has a remote adjustment for the bass as well but u kno that crossovers have 2 basic controls for each pair of channels a cut off slope adjust and a gain adjust now if i connect my remote control for my bass on the crossover what it does is overrides the gain control on the crossover and it becomes the gain control... theres also a bass boost on the crossover but i dont use it to boost anything..
and yes i do have a subsonic filter cutting of frequencies below th 38hz
30Hertz on 05/9/2007 23:27:04
I'm not really following you. Crossovers are set once, and left alone unless you have to retune. You have two types of Crossovers. A high pass (which can be used for driving full range speakers, or a SubSonicFilter) and a low pass that is used when installing subwoofers.
Please explain more in detail and break it down so its easy to follow. Or take pictures =)
markz on 05/9/2007 23:46:47
ok i see u are not understanding me..
what i am saying is that the gain for the subwoofer on the crossover comes with a remote so that when the remote is plugged into the crossover the subwoofer gain on the crossover is defeated an the remote then becomes the gain control. its the blitz BZX-3
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