Hey everyone, havn't posted here in a while but I know I'll get some great advice!
Goal: Transferring my system into my brothers pre-wired car.
Equipment: (2) JL Audio 10w-08 subs, Legacy Red Series Two 1800 watt amp.
So far; I've connected the amp to the pre-wired system from previous owner. I go to turn on car and radio; amp registers no power.
What should i do first? I checked all fuses, and they are clean, along with proper connection to the battery. The black cord is grounded clearly onto the metal.
What are my options in errors so far?
Thanks,
-Steve
Replies (23)
lilschtive on 04/25/2007 20:19:57
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/lilschtive/100_9916.jpg
^^ is a picture of the wires that I discovered already
and the 2nd is back of HU
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/lilschtive/100_9910.jpg
swez on 04/25/2007 20:27:55
Try a jumper wire from the amps' B+ power lug to the REM lug on the amp. (DISCONNECT THE HU REM WIRE 1ST)
If the amp is getting power and amp comes on, the present REMote feed is not working.
If the amp does not come on in this manner, test the B+ and ground lugs for DC voltage. If no voltage readings come up, the main power line or ground has a problem.
Swez
Welcome back
lilschtive on 04/25/2007 22:44:47
What I've done:
I checked the amp to battery cord on the battery, and it was all loose and not on very well. That got my hopes up; i cleaned the terminal and tightly fitted it back onto the battery. I hooked that, the HU cord and grounded to a different spot; better than before. I turn on the HU; no response in the back.
I think that I've narrowed it down to problems with the HU. It is a Pioneer DEN-P4400. I checked behind the HU again; everything seems to be hooked up fine!
I've ooked at the directions for the HU online about 3-4 times and read the entire packet (31 pages)The HU can be used for subwoofers and clearly gives directions. but when i go to where it says, im empty handed. I've clicked every single button on the HU 5 times and tried every possible combintion.
So here my is dilema. If i think my amp is hooked up fine, yet, my HU doesn't register a rear ampplifer? If it doesn't register, then im asuming my amp is not connect?
Its on of the two obviously. I'm not sure if the power light ever worked on the amp to begin with in my other car; So I can't tell if the amp really is getting power, though, everything is hooked up fine.
Ugh! What is my next step?
P.S: if pictures of video footage will help, i'll gladly hook up my camera
swez on 04/26/2007 10:08:07
Already gave you a method to test the amp for power and remote. If the amp lights up and no sound, audio signal may not be reaching the amp/subs.
If the amp does not turn on, the power supply to the amp is suspect or the amp has internal problems.
Swez
PS I don't like to repeat myself in the same post! Pay attention and try the methods mentioned earlier.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/26/2007 10:11:02
That is a great way to test too. I had to run my first amp with the REM and batt+ wired together because the REM lead on my deck was dead. Had to pull the amp fuse every time I hopped out the car for more than an hour, or there was no juice left afterwards. If only I knew what I know now........
lilschtive on 04/27/2007 00:31:45
Swez i read what you wrote; but It's it bit too complex for me. Not sure what any of those mean.
Here is what i know in 'simple' terms:
Amp power cord=Red
HU cord=Blue----------Is this the HU REM?
Ground= Black
HU connection= Black and Red
louisypher on 04/27/2007 00:58:44
a quick test for the remote (blue wire, though not always , have seen them orange) off of the HU is to get a test light and check with the HU turned on, or if you have a voltage tester it will show up, be sure to have a good ground or use the ground off of the HU.you never mentioned if the HU was operating(coming on).
swez on 04/27/2007 07:51:13
Quote: "Swez i read what you wrote; but It's it bit too complex for me. Not sure what any of those mean."
Here is what i know in 'simple' terms:
Amp power cord=Red (This is wired to amps' B+ connection)
HU cord=Blue----------Is this the HU REM? (That is REM yes)
Ground= Black (Yes)
HU connection= Black and Red (Yes)
This test is simple and very easy to do:
1. Remove REM line from amp
2. Use a small jumper wire from amps power line to amps REM connector
3. If the amp is getting power and has a good ground, the amp should come on (Power indicator light will glow)
Tech Tip: Most aftermarket HU's work best if they have the black ground wire connected to bare metal in the dash cavity or floor pan. The factory harness ground is not always adequate.
Once we have established the amp is powering up, the next step is to be sure the audio signals from the HU are getting to the amp. Since this HU has Front/Rear/Sub outs, any of those RCA jacks in the HU can be used to deliver audio signals to the sub amp mentioned.
If you are using an outboard amp to power full range speakers, (Not mentioned) does this amp work now?
If not using full range amp here, try the rear channel RCA's to feed the sub amp initially. If that works, it can be used. If you want to use the sub channel RCA outputs in the HU, some HU's have a menu selected sub on/off feature and perhaps a LPF. (Low Pass Filter) The Sub channel needs to be activated on these HU's to deliver audio signals to an amp linked to this feature.
Do you understand this information well now? If not, just ask and someone will break it down as needed.
Swez
PS I don't scold people who don't understand the answers given or need more clarification. Just ask for clarification on the parts that are not fully understood. However, when we take time to help others and they "seemingly disregard the information", (Do thier own thing) that will prompt some degree of frustration and bring a degree of correction.
This is how it works in the adult world. No, I don't wish to be gruff with anyone who does not understand the information given. (I appologize if that is the case) But, when we go counter to the instructions given by parents, teachers and bosses, that often brings a more direct correction, (Rebuke) to get us back on track. We all experience this in life and it's for our own benefit. Nothing more and nothing less. It's not a personal attack. Smile
lilschtive on 04/27/2007 18:36:44
Oh I know what you mean with people around here disreguarding information, and completely understand what you're saying. Whenever I post here now I try to be as striaght forward as I can be. Sorry for the miscommunication. Going on...
Aha those instructions make sense...Take out HU cord from amp, use s wire to go from power to the HU port in the amp i just took out...
"If you are using an outboard amp to power full range speakers, (Not mentioned) does this amp work now?"
-No; The HU has its own amp built in (like most others)
Yes; both amp and HU are grounded clearly.
Thanks for the information.
swez on 04/28/2007 12:15:07
OK, since the HU is the main amping source for Mid/High speakers, you have the options to use any of the HU RCA outputs as a signal source for the sub amp. (Rear or Sub outs recommended here) The rear output jacks will allow you to fade and control volume to rear speaker and sub amp.
The jumper info you recounted is correct. If the amp turns on this way, we have power to the amp from the main power line. (But the REMote line from the HU may not be working correctly)
We can deal with this one later, but concentrate on getting the sub amp to turn on first. Once you get that working, then RCA signal lines from the HU are the next step. (We need to make sure the HU is sending RCA level signals from the HU, to the RCA inputs of your amp.
What results are you noting with this stage of diagnostics?
Swez
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 13:18:58
Well not too good of results. I got no response back from the test you told me to do. The amp power light did NOT turn on.
I'm having doubts about this "Monster Cable"..No idea what it does; just looks like it transfers the main wire from the battery, into a smaller wire for the amp. My other car does not have this so I'm not sure if I even need it.
Picture of it located here:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/lilschtive/100_9918.jpg
Thanks for the help so far and guiding me through this. I really do appreciate it.
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 14:44:46
I took apart the car; followed the amp wire all the way back to the battery. Looked clean. Took out both terminals and cleaned them throughoughly (if thats how you spell it). I took apart the "Monster Cable" and the amp battery is a very thick wire. Even when I was done cleaning the terminals and had a straight wire to the back, when I touched it with metal, no response. Again, I went to the fuse box; all clean.
Man I really want to figure this one out; its bugging me!
cplkittle on 04/28/2007 15:05:17
the distribution block in the picture is fine, I would try changing the fuse. Sometimes the fuse will blow and you won't be able to tell, especially a glass fuse.
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 15:21:29
I went a step further:
i got a new wire i new that did not have anything wrong with it, and connected an end to the battery and just ran it to the amp. Then, i performed the test Swez told me to do earlier again, and the power light went on!!
So; I'm removing all the previous amp wiring, and installing a new amp line to the back.
I took the old battery wire out, although it looked fine, I'ld rather install a new one and be safe rather than sorry in the long run.
Ill be doing this all day and ill keep everyone updated
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 15:21:56
With the new wiring; do you think i should even use the distribution block? I don't know what it does; do i need it?
ttocs on 04/28/2007 15:46:51
by distrobution block, do you mean the fuse block? If you only had one amp, you didn't need a dist block. You did not mention anything about the fuse when you re-installed the new cable. It HAS to be be fuse 12" from the battery.
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 15:57:25
Ya now that i look at the distribution block, it has holes for 4; which makes sense for an install with multiple amps. I don't need that im only running one amp..so ya
swez on 04/28/2007 19:33:34
Yes, that is a D-block. If only using one amp and the main power line is fused near the battery, no need for the D-block here. (Keep it handy for future needs though) That's a nice block and seems very well made too.
Good work tracing back the amp issues. Sounds like a bad wire or something was lacking between the battery post and D-block. (No power transfer)
Well done and glad you got the amp to light up CLAP ... now on to signal cables and REM trigger lines from the HU.
Swez
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 20:01:07
Although today was a long day; I honestly think i know how to install and create a fully functioning car audio system now; at least the basics!
Well, i rewired the system, put on a new fuse, set up the amp to the HU, and made both subwoofers function. Man does it sound nice!!
Thanks a lot for the help Swez. That simple test you taught me saved me a bunch load of trouble. I was gonna quit, but i tried the wire from the amp and did your test and vhalua!
The HU and ground wires were the easy part; and i re did all the wires in back of the HU.
Also; one problem i encountered was that only 1 sub was functioning; it seemed the other port on my amp for the sub was not working. So, i put both the outputs onto one port(which i think makes it more powerful) and they both worked. Ah what a great day.
Thanks again to everyone who helped, it really did help. This place is always reliable.
See ya around,
LiLschtive A.K.A (Little ****) HA! kidding
swez on 05/1/2007 06:28:48
Good that you have things in order now.
Swez
PS Always thought that name, (LiLschtive) had a certain ring to it. Please don't live up to that one as it will only bring grief to all.
ttocs on 05/1/2007 10:18:40
"Also; one problem i encountered was that only 1 sub was functioning; it seemed the other port on my amp for the sub was not working. So, i put both the outputs onto one port(which i think makes it more powerful) and they both worked. Ah what a great day."
A port is the whole in the box that allows a sub to be tuned. It sounds like you might have bridged your amp with out meaning to?
swez on 05/1/2007 14:02:54
I think he meant jacks in amp as ports... (Computer term) rather than ported sub enclosure... something is not quiet right yet, but at least he has results. (Bridge mode I would guess).
Swez
30Hertz on 05/1/2007 14:45:48
If he hooked up both subwoofers to a single channel (the right channel or the left channel) he didnt bridge it. Infact I think it would be getting less power overall than if he did bridge it. ({might not be the case with this amp since i havent read the manual because im at work). Normally when your bridging an amplifier one Positive goes on one channels + and the negative goes to the - on the other channel.
IF you dont think the other channel on your amplifier is working, you could always get a digital multi-meter, hook up the positive lead to the + channel, and the negative lead to the - channel on the side you suspect is not working. Set your DMM to read AC Volts and check to see your voltage. This is also one part of setting the gains correctly but that is more in depth lol.
-30
Goal: Transferring my system into my brothers pre-wired car.
Equipment: (2) JL Audio 10w-08 subs, Legacy Red Series Two 1800 watt amp.
So far; I've connected the amp to the pre-wired system from previous owner. I go to turn on car and radio; amp registers no power.
What should i do first? I checked all fuses, and they are clean, along with proper connection to the battery. The black cord is grounded clearly onto the metal.
What are my options in errors so far?
Thanks,
-Steve
Replies (23)
lilschtive on 04/25/2007 20:19:57
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/lilschtive/100_9916.jpg
^^ is a picture of the wires that I discovered already
and the 2nd is back of HU
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/lilschtive/100_9910.jpg
swez on 04/25/2007 20:27:55
Try a jumper wire from the amps' B+ power lug to the REM lug on the amp. (DISCONNECT THE HU REM WIRE 1ST)
If the amp is getting power and amp comes on, the present REMote feed is not working.
If the amp does not come on in this manner, test the B+ and ground lugs for DC voltage. If no voltage readings come up, the main power line or ground has a problem.
Swez
Welcome back
lilschtive on 04/25/2007 22:44:47
What I've done:
I checked the amp to battery cord on the battery, and it was all loose and not on very well. That got my hopes up; i cleaned the terminal and tightly fitted it back onto the battery. I hooked that, the HU cord and grounded to a different spot; better than before. I turn on the HU; no response in the back.
I think that I've narrowed it down to problems with the HU. It is a Pioneer DEN-P4400. I checked behind the HU again; everything seems to be hooked up fine!
I've ooked at the directions for the HU online about 3-4 times and read the entire packet (31 pages)The HU can be used for subwoofers and clearly gives directions. but when i go to where it says, im empty handed. I've clicked every single button on the HU 5 times and tried every possible combintion.
So here my is dilema. If i think my amp is hooked up fine, yet, my HU doesn't register a rear ampplifer? If it doesn't register, then im asuming my amp is not connect?
Its on of the two obviously. I'm not sure if the power light ever worked on the amp to begin with in my other car; So I can't tell if the amp really is getting power, though, everything is hooked up fine.
Ugh! What is my next step?
P.S: if pictures of video footage will help, i'll gladly hook up my camera
swez on 04/26/2007 10:08:07
Already gave you a method to test the amp for power and remote. If the amp lights up and no sound, audio signal may not be reaching the amp/subs.
If the amp does not turn on, the power supply to the amp is suspect or the amp has internal problems.
Swez
PS I don't like to repeat myself in the same post! Pay attention and try the methods mentioned earlier.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/26/2007 10:11:02
That is a great way to test too. I had to run my first amp with the REM and batt+ wired together because the REM lead on my deck was dead. Had to pull the amp fuse every time I hopped out the car for more than an hour, or there was no juice left afterwards. If only I knew what I know now........
lilschtive on 04/27/2007 00:31:45
Swez i read what you wrote; but It's it bit too complex for me. Not sure what any of those mean.
Here is what i know in 'simple' terms:
Amp power cord=Red
HU cord=Blue----------Is this the HU REM?
Ground= Black
HU connection= Black and Red
louisypher on 04/27/2007 00:58:44
a quick test for the remote (blue wire, though not always , have seen them orange) off of the HU is to get a test light and check with the HU turned on, or if you have a voltage tester it will show up, be sure to have a good ground or use the ground off of the HU.you never mentioned if the HU was operating(coming on).
swez on 04/27/2007 07:51:13
Quote: "Swez i read what you wrote; but It's it bit too complex for me. Not sure what any of those mean."
Here is what i know in 'simple' terms:
Amp power cord=Red (This is wired to amps' B+ connection)
HU cord=Blue----------Is this the HU REM? (That is REM yes)
Ground= Black (Yes)
HU connection= Black and Red (Yes)
This test is simple and very easy to do:
1. Remove REM line from amp
2. Use a small jumper wire from amps power line to amps REM connector
3. If the amp is getting power and has a good ground, the amp should come on (Power indicator light will glow)
Tech Tip: Most aftermarket HU's work best if they have the black ground wire connected to bare metal in the dash cavity or floor pan. The factory harness ground is not always adequate.
Once we have established the amp is powering up, the next step is to be sure the audio signals from the HU are getting to the amp. Since this HU has Front/Rear/Sub outs, any of those RCA jacks in the HU can be used to deliver audio signals to the sub amp mentioned.
If you are using an outboard amp to power full range speakers, (Not mentioned) does this amp work now?
If not using full range amp here, try the rear channel RCA's to feed the sub amp initially. If that works, it can be used. If you want to use the sub channel RCA outputs in the HU, some HU's have a menu selected sub on/off feature and perhaps a LPF. (Low Pass Filter) The Sub channel needs to be activated on these HU's to deliver audio signals to an amp linked to this feature.
Do you understand this information well now? If not, just ask and someone will break it down as needed.
Swez
PS I don't scold people who don't understand the answers given or need more clarification. Just ask for clarification on the parts that are not fully understood. However, when we take time to help others and they "seemingly disregard the information", (Do thier own thing) that will prompt some degree of frustration and bring a degree of correction.
This is how it works in the adult world. No, I don't wish to be gruff with anyone who does not understand the information given. (I appologize if that is the case) But, when we go counter to the instructions given by parents, teachers and bosses, that often brings a more direct correction, (Rebuke) to get us back on track. We all experience this in life and it's for our own benefit. Nothing more and nothing less. It's not a personal attack. Smile
lilschtive on 04/27/2007 18:36:44
Oh I know what you mean with people around here disreguarding information, and completely understand what you're saying. Whenever I post here now I try to be as striaght forward as I can be. Sorry for the miscommunication. Going on...
Aha those instructions make sense...Take out HU cord from amp, use s wire to go from power to the HU port in the amp i just took out...
"If you are using an outboard amp to power full range speakers, (Not mentioned) does this amp work now?"
-No; The HU has its own amp built in (like most others)
Yes; both amp and HU are grounded clearly.
Thanks for the information.
swez on 04/28/2007 12:15:07
OK, since the HU is the main amping source for Mid/High speakers, you have the options to use any of the HU RCA outputs as a signal source for the sub amp. (Rear or Sub outs recommended here) The rear output jacks will allow you to fade and control volume to rear speaker and sub amp.
The jumper info you recounted is correct. If the amp turns on this way, we have power to the amp from the main power line. (But the REMote line from the HU may not be working correctly)
We can deal with this one later, but concentrate on getting the sub amp to turn on first. Once you get that working, then RCA signal lines from the HU are the next step. (We need to make sure the HU is sending RCA level signals from the HU, to the RCA inputs of your amp.
What results are you noting with this stage of diagnostics?
Swez
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 13:18:58
Well not too good of results. I got no response back from the test you told me to do. The amp power light did NOT turn on.
I'm having doubts about this "Monster Cable"..No idea what it does; just looks like it transfers the main wire from the battery, into a smaller wire for the amp. My other car does not have this so I'm not sure if I even need it.
Picture of it located here:
http://i11.photobucket.com/albums/a171/lilschtive/100_9918.jpg
Thanks for the help so far and guiding me through this. I really do appreciate it.
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 14:44:46
I took apart the car; followed the amp wire all the way back to the battery. Looked clean. Took out both terminals and cleaned them throughoughly (if thats how you spell it). I took apart the "Monster Cable" and the amp battery is a very thick wire. Even when I was done cleaning the terminals and had a straight wire to the back, when I touched it with metal, no response. Again, I went to the fuse box; all clean.
Man I really want to figure this one out; its bugging me!
cplkittle on 04/28/2007 15:05:17
the distribution block in the picture is fine, I would try changing the fuse. Sometimes the fuse will blow and you won't be able to tell, especially a glass fuse.
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 15:21:29
I went a step further:
i got a new wire i new that did not have anything wrong with it, and connected an end to the battery and just ran it to the amp. Then, i performed the test Swez told me to do earlier again, and the power light went on!!
So; I'm removing all the previous amp wiring, and installing a new amp line to the back.
I took the old battery wire out, although it looked fine, I'ld rather install a new one and be safe rather than sorry in the long run.
Ill be doing this all day and ill keep everyone updated
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 15:21:56
With the new wiring; do you think i should even use the distribution block? I don't know what it does; do i need it?
ttocs on 04/28/2007 15:46:51
by distrobution block, do you mean the fuse block? If you only had one amp, you didn't need a dist block. You did not mention anything about the fuse when you re-installed the new cable. It HAS to be be fuse 12" from the battery.
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 15:57:25
Ya now that i look at the distribution block, it has holes for 4; which makes sense for an install with multiple amps. I don't need that im only running one amp..so ya
swez on 04/28/2007 19:33:34
Yes, that is a D-block. If only using one amp and the main power line is fused near the battery, no need for the D-block here. (Keep it handy for future needs though) That's a nice block and seems very well made too.
Good work tracing back the amp issues. Sounds like a bad wire or something was lacking between the battery post and D-block. (No power transfer)
Well done and glad you got the amp to light up CLAP ... now on to signal cables and REM trigger lines from the HU.
Swez
lilschtive on 04/28/2007 20:01:07
Although today was a long day; I honestly think i know how to install and create a fully functioning car audio system now; at least the basics!
Well, i rewired the system, put on a new fuse, set up the amp to the HU, and made both subwoofers function. Man does it sound nice!!
Thanks a lot for the help Swez. That simple test you taught me saved me a bunch load of trouble. I was gonna quit, but i tried the wire from the amp and did your test and vhalua!
The HU and ground wires were the easy part; and i re did all the wires in back of the HU.
Also; one problem i encountered was that only 1 sub was functioning; it seemed the other port on my amp for the sub was not working. So, i put both the outputs onto one port(which i think makes it more powerful) and they both worked. Ah what a great day.
Thanks again to everyone who helped, it really did help. This place is always reliable.
See ya around,
LiLschtive A.K.A (Little ****) HA! kidding
swez on 05/1/2007 06:28:48
Good that you have things in order now.
Swez
PS Always thought that name, (LiLschtive) had a certain ring to it. Please don't live up to that one as it will only bring grief to all.
ttocs on 05/1/2007 10:18:40
"Also; one problem i encountered was that only 1 sub was functioning; it seemed the other port on my amp for the sub was not working. So, i put both the outputs onto one port(which i think makes it more powerful) and they both worked. Ah what a great day."
A port is the whole in the box that allows a sub to be tuned. It sounds like you might have bridged your amp with out meaning to?
swez on 05/1/2007 14:02:54
I think he meant jacks in amp as ports... (Computer term) rather than ported sub enclosure... something is not quiet right yet, but at least he has results. (Bridge mode I would guess).
Swez
30Hertz on 05/1/2007 14:45:48
If he hooked up both subwoofers to a single channel (the right channel or the left channel) he didnt bridge it. Infact I think it would be getting less power overall than if he did bridge it. ({might not be the case with this amp since i havent read the manual because im at work). Normally when your bridging an amplifier one Positive goes on one channels + and the negative goes to the - on the other channel.
IF you dont think the other channel on your amplifier is working, you could always get a digital multi-meter, hook up the positive lead to the + channel, and the negative lead to the - channel on the side you suspect is not working. Set your DMM to read AC Volts and check to see your voltage. This is also one part of setting the gains correctly but that is more in depth lol.
-30
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
