Hi,
All,
Still working on my new system.
JBL speakers 2pairs
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=C608GTI/230&Language=ENG&Country=GB&Region=EUROPE&cat=COS&ser=GTI
with this amp http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M650
on 2 per door nothing on the back dash
also
the http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14926 wit 2 12" subs
what do you guys think
Thanks
Regards
Replies (8)
b_bass59 on 04/23/2007 18:52:27
Also where is the best place, to place the speakers to have the most sound out of the car, is it the back dash or the doors?
Thanks
cplkittle on 04/23/2007 21:22:07
alot of it depends on your taste.
I have found that high in the door or on the dash gives you the cleanest sound. Kickpanels are nice if they are set up properly, but sound coming from low in the door or kickpanel area has alot of obstacles to overcome before it makes its way up to your ears. Also, I personally don't like alot of sound coming from behind me.
The best thing to do is connect all of the speakers up to the amp with plenty of extra wire and move them around to find the best sound.
b_bass59 on 04/23/2007 21:50:39
thanks
with the midrange speakers, I want the sound to be loud and clear on the out side of the car. the best position for this, is the front door or the back dash.
for example.
I currently have 6 eminems, 4 at the back and 2 at the front.
My friend has only 2 of them on the upper part of his doors, his system sounds a lot louder than mine.
Thanks regards
swez on 04/24/2007 11:41:19
That Alpine MRP-M650 is for subs only. It is a MONO, (1 channel) amp as is the Alpine M1005 . Pick one or the other for your subs, depending on the power rating of the subs being considered. (What subs are you thinking about here?
As for your full range speakers, these JBL's like a lot of power. It may mean a strong 4 channel amp or a pair of 2 channel amps to power both pairs. The speakers are rated at 150 Wrms/ea. You can do pretty well with 100 Wrms per speaker and that will be plenty loud and still remain clean. (Properly set up and tweaking of coarse)
The last issue to consider, powering amps of this magnitude will demand a H.O. electrical system. That means about 200A's for the ALT and a strong battery for storage, along with the Big 3 wiring upgrade. (See FAQ)
Comments?
Swez
MrBrownstone on 04/24/2007 14:33:45
200As is innacurate. Fuse ratings are for when you are maxing out your system continuously...and that just doesn't happen listening to music. You don't need an alternator upgrade for that setup.
On the other side, installation of your speakers is the majority of their efficiency. The clearer the path to your ears, the less power you'll need. I do recommend a power wire upgrad to either (1) 2 guage with a distribution block or, 2 4 guages..one for the sub amp, 1 for all other amp(s) equipment. The standard upgrades for the big 3 are also necessary.
What you are looking for is to find a spot where the speakers have a clear path to your ear. In the car, it makes sense to get the tweeter high in the dash, but also, the farther away your speakers are from your ear, the better stereo imaging you'll have. No matter where you put speakers in a car, it'll be a compromise. Too close to you, bad imaging. In the kick panels, your leg is in the way to the opposite passenger. In the door, crossfiring. If you can afford it, custom kicks are the way to go.
cplkittle on 04/25/2007 00:17:31
I would think he needed a HO alt as well. Although I recommend electrical upgrades one step at a time (big3, then yellow top, then HO alt), I would have thought it would go that far.
With the MRP-M650 and an additional 400+ watt 4 channel amplifier, it is going to put quite a strain on the electrical system.
trunkisloud on 04/25/2007 07:06:29
yea word......
swez on 04/25/2007 09:58:24
It all depends on how this system is used. If one likes to listen at moderate SPL levels, smaller amps and efficient speakers and install practices will deliver. However, for a real smack-down, drag-out SPL system with the products noted above and playing it hard a lot, there are no short-cuts.
Mr. B., I know you have built some slamming systems in other small Imports. However, with the High Current demands of todays' gut punching amps, requires a stout reserve of power when they are pushed hard.
I have worked on a few larger SQL installs w/ 140A ALTs and HO BATs. At normal SPL levels, (110 dB or so) no problems. But when a system starts to draw the upper levels of current, all my guys are reporting power shortage problems w/ 1/0 wiring too. (Moderate to severe light dimming, even at 2000 RPM) These guys are using JL Slash series amps. (1000.1 or 500.1 and a 300/4 amp kits)
So, for what it's worth, amps of that power range do indeed stress even the bigger stock ALT's in their rides. I cannot see a stock ALT of say 75-85 Amperes at full output, feeding a system of this magnitude w/o some major upgrades. A few burb tones maybe, but not a steady diet of +125 amperes draw. We cannot bend the known laws of physics and electricity.
Swez
All,
Still working on my new system.
JBL speakers 2pairs
http://www.jbl.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=C608GTI/230&Language=ENG&Country=GB&Region=EUROPE&cat=COS&ser=GTI
with this amp http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M650
on 2 per door nothing on the back dash
also
the http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14926 wit 2 12" subs
what do you guys think
Thanks
Regards
Replies (8)
b_bass59 on 04/23/2007 18:52:27
Also where is the best place, to place the speakers to have the most sound out of the car, is it the back dash or the doors?
Thanks
cplkittle on 04/23/2007 21:22:07
alot of it depends on your taste.
I have found that high in the door or on the dash gives you the cleanest sound. Kickpanels are nice if they are set up properly, but sound coming from low in the door or kickpanel area has alot of obstacles to overcome before it makes its way up to your ears. Also, I personally don't like alot of sound coming from behind me.
The best thing to do is connect all of the speakers up to the amp with plenty of extra wire and move them around to find the best sound.
b_bass59 on 04/23/2007 21:50:39
thanks
with the midrange speakers, I want the sound to be loud and clear on the out side of the car. the best position for this, is the front door or the back dash.
for example.
I currently have 6 eminems, 4 at the back and 2 at the front.
My friend has only 2 of them on the upper part of his doors, his system sounds a lot louder than mine.
Thanks regards
swez on 04/24/2007 11:41:19
That Alpine MRP-M650 is for subs only. It is a MONO, (1 channel) amp as is the Alpine M1005 . Pick one or the other for your subs, depending on the power rating of the subs being considered. (What subs are you thinking about here?
As for your full range speakers, these JBL's like a lot of power. It may mean a strong 4 channel amp or a pair of 2 channel amps to power both pairs. The speakers are rated at 150 Wrms/ea. You can do pretty well with 100 Wrms per speaker and that will be plenty loud and still remain clean. (Properly set up and tweaking of coarse)
The last issue to consider, powering amps of this magnitude will demand a H.O. electrical system. That means about 200A's for the ALT and a strong battery for storage, along with the Big 3 wiring upgrade. (See FAQ)
Comments?
Swez
MrBrownstone on 04/24/2007 14:33:45
200As is innacurate. Fuse ratings are for when you are maxing out your system continuously...and that just doesn't happen listening to music. You don't need an alternator upgrade for that setup.
On the other side, installation of your speakers is the majority of their efficiency. The clearer the path to your ears, the less power you'll need. I do recommend a power wire upgrad to either (1) 2 guage with a distribution block or, 2 4 guages..one for the sub amp, 1 for all other amp(s) equipment. The standard upgrades for the big 3 are also necessary.
What you are looking for is to find a spot where the speakers have a clear path to your ear. In the car, it makes sense to get the tweeter high in the dash, but also, the farther away your speakers are from your ear, the better stereo imaging you'll have. No matter where you put speakers in a car, it'll be a compromise. Too close to you, bad imaging. In the kick panels, your leg is in the way to the opposite passenger. In the door, crossfiring. If you can afford it, custom kicks are the way to go.
cplkittle on 04/25/2007 00:17:31
I would think he needed a HO alt as well. Although I recommend electrical upgrades one step at a time (big3, then yellow top, then HO alt), I would have thought it would go that far.
With the MRP-M650 and an additional 400+ watt 4 channel amplifier, it is going to put quite a strain on the electrical system.
trunkisloud on 04/25/2007 07:06:29
yea word......
swez on 04/25/2007 09:58:24
It all depends on how this system is used. If one likes to listen at moderate SPL levels, smaller amps and efficient speakers and install practices will deliver. However, for a real smack-down, drag-out SPL system with the products noted above and playing it hard a lot, there are no short-cuts.
Mr. B., I know you have built some slamming systems in other small Imports. However, with the High Current demands of todays' gut punching amps, requires a stout reserve of power when they are pushed hard.
I have worked on a few larger SQL installs w/ 140A ALTs and HO BATs. At normal SPL levels, (110 dB or so) no problems. But when a system starts to draw the upper levels of current, all my guys are reporting power shortage problems w/ 1/0 wiring too. (Moderate to severe light dimming, even at 2000 RPM) These guys are using JL Slash series amps. (1000.1 or 500.1 and a 300/4 amp kits)
So, for what it's worth, amps of that power range do indeed stress even the bigger stock ALT's in their rides. I cannot see a stock ALT of say 75-85 Amperes at full output, feeding a system of this magnitude w/o some major upgrades. A few burb tones maybe, but not a steady diet of +125 amperes draw. We cannot bend the known laws of physics and electricity.
Swez
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