My Father in law rode in my truck this morning and liked my sound system. He told me that his 95 Lexus had a sound system problem and asked if I would be interested in upgrading his system. He said it has a multi disc changer and a cassette player.
Does anyone know if these cars are particularly hard to work on? Probably needs new speakers and a new AM/FM/CD head unit. maybe aftermarket amping?? I havent ever noticed but it may have a factory sub....he said it used to have more bass...
Any advice? Suggestions??
Replies (16)
swez on 04/8/2007 22:22:14
If I were familiar with the Lexus system and layout, would be happy to assist you on same. Ttocs, UK Installer or Kittle would be my go to guys as they are Pro installers. Hopefully they can fill in a few gaps to get you on the right track.
Swez
PS What's wrong with the present system in his car?
jamesp on 04/8/2007 22:40:44
The CD changer doesnt work. I have not even looked at it yet. He really just liked the way my system sounded and told me if Im interested to hook him up. I would be glad to do it if it isnt a nightmare to work on.
Maybe one of the guys will clue me in on the car and we can decide how far he wants to go with it.Im thinking something like an Eclipse 4000 or 4100 for the Hu. I dont even know if the car has component speakers or what yet. Since Im kind of done with mine for the time being, I need a project. Thanks Swez.
swez on 04/8/2007 22:47:51
Am sure the front speakers are Components and perhaps a pair of coaxials in the back. If you get more feedback from the Pros, perhaps we can noodle out the rest.
Swez
UKinstaller on 04/9/2007 00:27:52
not too bad to work on. easy to get through the firewall, not horrible to pull the radio, really easy to run wires through. the humdinger is that it's probably gonna be factory amplified and you'll have to bypass that. it will either be high in the passenger kickpanel or in the passenger side rear quarterpanel behind the carpet in the trunk.
door panels are kinda a PITA to pull off, but once you get the first one and figure out how to do it, the rest are easy. and yes there are definitely gonna be components in the front doors, more than likely a 4 inch "woofer" and a tweeter. should be 4 inch speakers all the way around.
is there a subwoofer in the rear deck??
-UK
jamesp on 04/9/2007 11:36:33
Thanks for the replies.
I will try and get a good look at the car this evening.
jamesp on 04/9/2007 20:16:27
I just checked out the Lexus. There is a subwoofer in the rear deck.
The Cd changer does work....If you turn the CD's the right way... it does seem odd to put the labels facing down so I didnt give my FIL too hard of a time. It actually sounds good especially at the volume he likes.
There is a problem though. The display is no good. It shows a disc number and track number but no radio station info.
I would like to find nice CD reciever with large buttons and an easy to read display that can be integrated into the cars dash and look like it belongs there.
Unlike my Ford truck, it isnt readily apparent how to remove the radio.
swez on 04/9/2007 22:58:03
Cute story on CD insertion procedure... LOL That a first on this site fer sure. hehe ("Green side up" said the sod layers' foreman)
The display has probably pooped out due to internal ribbon wire connections. Those are pretty delicate and over time, they act like computers and just fart out. In many cases, it can be repaired by a patient tech. But, that assumes one can get the HU out of the dash and then unpacked from the cage stack and resolder the iffy joints with pin-point accuracy. (I have some suggestions if you want to go there)
I'd bet $ you could do it though. Yeah Jimmy, you're that good when given a task and helpful directions. (Kudos my friend...) But, only if you are up to the task and have the proper tools and a steady hand.
Otherwise, consider the longer route and upgrade gear as FIL desires. If he's a die hard audiophile, you already know the steps. It's just a matter of digging in and taking things to the limit of his interests.
As you weigh the issues at hand, what's your gut tell you to do next?
Swez
PS Ford's use a 1 din receiver. Many Japanese cars use a 2.0 din HU's. Since this Lexus has a CD changer and Cassette player, it may be a 1.5 - 2.0 Din opening. Can you tell which this car has?
cplkittle on 04/10/2007 00:06:19
I just typed up a really nice suggestive reply, but I guess I timed out because when I hit the make reply button, I had to sign in. so I lost it all.
I wanted to recommend the Pioneer 2 din and 1.5 din radios..
specifically the FH-P4200MP and the DEH-P77DH.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/album/compare/0,,2076_310069880,00.html
jamesp on 04/10/2007 13:03:55
I believe the receiver is a 1.5 din. It looks like the same size as my stock Ford receiver face, whioch is wide and slopes down to 1 din behind the dash face.
Ill look at the Pioneer units when I get home to my high speed connection.
It looks like there may be a factory amp in the trunk behind a cover on the drivers side. I need to investigate farther.
Will Crutchfield sell thier master sheets? Ill see if they will as they helped me a lot on my truck
Off topic here but Saturday my in wall oven started beeping and flashing a code F-1. I took the top panel apart and found a schematic of the oven and a key to the codes. It says to replace the Electronic Control Module (the keypad w/ led readout).....well I looked around and the part was only 240.00 ha ha, but was listed as no longer made...no stock anywhere. Swez, it has 3 computer like ribbon connectors in it like you are talking about in the Lexus. This oven is 9 years old but cost over 800 bucks when I bought it. My appliance man said it is a common problem. Sure wish I could fix this thing...
swez on 04/10/2007 16:59:29
Have not done a lot of appliance repairs of late, but my guess is that the power supply in this module has gone kaput for one reason or another. If you know the manufacturer of this oven and give their service department a call, you may find someone who knows exactly what went wrong and how to fix it w/o replacing the whole module that are now extinct. Who knows, if there's a squirrel in the crew, he may have a few of these modules or parts tucked away for just this reason. It can't hurt to dig a little deeper.
Instinct tells me to suggest heating the controller guts with a hair drier for a few minutes and then try it again. If it comes back to life, look for electrolytic capacitors in this module that may have exceeded their MTBF. (Mean Time Before Failure)
When e-caps loose their values or leak a lot, (Current leakage, not electrolytes) the circuits that depend on them will often respond to a little external heat as a temporary fix and is a good diagnostic tool.
Finally, a good cleaning of the board with IPA, (Rubbing alcohol) may show something you can fix yourself. Look for hot spots on the board, off color soldering joints, damaged components or loose connections. Sometimes a poor assembly process will work for years and then quit w/o a hint of problems.
Good luck mate,
Swez
jamesp on 04/10/2007 21:25:41
Lexus...Crutchfield asks if system is a Nakamichi or not but cant tell me how to determine. Crutch also says that nobody makes a dash install kit for this car. I found one at Car Toys.
I checked out the car tonight and the main problem with the display is that the back lighting doesnt work. Most of the LED structure works, you just cant see it well with no back lighting. I played around with the system and it actually sounds good and will go pretty loud without distortion...so...I would love to know how to pull it out and scope it for any obvious problems.
Swez, the oven is a GE and other than showing the F-1 code and beeping, everything works perfectly. You can press a function such as bake and it will set...then advance the temp to the desidered level and set the timer...all works fine...then when you turn the unit off and only the clock shows, in 30 seconds it starts beeping and flashing the code. ..You can reset it and use it but you have to throw the breaker off when you are done because it will beep continuously....
When the control module is removed, the back side is easily accessed but the face with the invisible flush buttons is glued to the front...One web site I found the other night said the code can mean a diode or cap is failing...When I call GE..my manual calls it the answer center...all they will do is schedule a qualified GE repairman for a service call. I asked her why it is referred to as the answer center in my manual...she said "your manual is old" I would be miffed for a serviceman to come out and say..sorry, they dont make that part anymore..$100.00 please..Oh well, life goes on.
Thanks for the help.
swez on 04/11/2007 06:53:19
This may be a mite on the iffy side, but some electric/gas company suppliers offer a consumer protection plan that covers repair/replacement costs of all major home appliances. You sign up pay the $25.00 a month contract fee and then make request a service call from one of their repairmen. Once he fixes the problem or offers to replace the faulty appliance, cancel the plan and go about your business.
If you stay on the plan for a few months, that's fine and consider it a short-term insurance policy on your appliances. Just be sure to read the fine print on the contract.
FYI: I am now dealing our service provider as we got a bogus deal on the hot water heater. He, (Sub-contactor) called before coming out and I told him the unit was leaking water. He said we'd have to replace it on our own dime. I then called customer service and was about to cancel the policy and she told me the repairman should have come out, looked things over, filed a replacement order and done the job per the contract.
Hummmm, maybe this repairman filed a claim for working on the unit, got paid for doing nothing and he is about to have the hammer come down on his head. Either way, the new tank was over $300.00 plus my 2.5 hours of labor to remove the old one and install the new one. Now, I want some answers and am waiting for our service provider to research the whole deal and fork out some paybacks.
Swez
PS The last water heater was the same make and capacity. It cost $120.00 back in 1997. That same tank in now over $300.00. (Yes, I checked prices before buying) According to US Govt figures, we have little or moderate inflation in the past 7 years? Oh really? This water tank went up almost 260% in 10 years. What's up with that?
jamesp on 04/11/2007 07:55:30
Wow, I didnt know water heaters had gone up so much. In early 02 I sold 50 gal heaters, AO Smith, glass lined for 199. a 40 gal for a buck fifty. China has cornered the metal market. The 50# box of 8 cc nails that I bought wholesale for 13 dollars a box went to 30 dol;lars in 2005 or so. Metal roofing has nearly tripled....
I never responded to your fly line post but am not familar with that line co. Im out of touch with the fresh water stuff and getting behind on all of it lately. I have a lot of catching up to do....someday
Swez, I would really like to pull this Lexus unit and see if I could at least get the light fixed but looking at it, its no easy to see where to start...Ill keep trying....what does unpacking the cage stack refer to..removing the guts from the case??
swez on 04/11/2007 12:51:06
In some cars with multiple element players, (CD,Tape a AM/FM) GM uses a modular designed 1.5 Din stack. Each module can be removed from the stack for repairs and replacement. (Cage stacking)
I would not be surprised if that is a Nak HU as a factory radio. If you can afford the best cars, they can use high end audio gear too. Wish I could be more help in the removal stage Jimmy. Never done a Lexus before and in my area, not many can afford that level of car. If you get it out and get at the guts, then I may be able to help a bit. Some probing of the power cables to the display might prove on target.
We'll see on that new fishing line. It might be here by the end of the week and trout season opens on the 15th. So, am getting my gear together and ready for the season as time permits. I like the high float and high visability of this line, but hope it is not overly stiff and coils a lot in colder weather. This ebayer sells good products at very reasonable prices. I bought a #7 Quarrow rod from him last spring and for the price, it's not a Sage or Winston, but definitely on par w/ Redington, St.Croix and the Lefty Kreh TFO rods at 3x the price. (9'0", 3 pc, 44 MM IM-7, fine cork handles and nice guides/reel seat too) Under $100.00 online, inc S/H. Love this rod as it handles so well.
Yeah, that water heater was a real shock on the price this time around. I called a few stores and they were all priced the same for a #40, gas fired tank. I could see $150-200 for a new tank in 10 years, but almost 3 times the price??? The local hardware store won out as it was a 15 minute trip, start to finish and to heck w/ the big box store hassles when possible.
Swez
jamesp on 04/12/2007 11:54:27
One more bump to the top in hopes of info on removing the head unit from this Lexus ???? Any clues ?? UK i ??
swez on 04/13/2007 13:54:26
Bump ^
Swez
Does anyone know if these cars are particularly hard to work on? Probably needs new speakers and a new AM/FM/CD head unit. maybe aftermarket amping?? I havent ever noticed but it may have a factory sub....he said it used to have more bass...
Any advice? Suggestions??
Replies (16)
swez on 04/8/2007 22:22:14
If I were familiar with the Lexus system and layout, would be happy to assist you on same. Ttocs, UK Installer or Kittle would be my go to guys as they are Pro installers. Hopefully they can fill in a few gaps to get you on the right track.
Swez
PS What's wrong with the present system in his car?
jamesp on 04/8/2007 22:40:44
The CD changer doesnt work. I have not even looked at it yet. He really just liked the way my system sounded and told me if Im interested to hook him up. I would be glad to do it if it isnt a nightmare to work on.
Maybe one of the guys will clue me in on the car and we can decide how far he wants to go with it.Im thinking something like an Eclipse 4000 or 4100 for the Hu. I dont even know if the car has component speakers or what yet. Since Im kind of done with mine for the time being, I need a project. Thanks Swez.
swez on 04/8/2007 22:47:51
Am sure the front speakers are Components and perhaps a pair of coaxials in the back. If you get more feedback from the Pros, perhaps we can noodle out the rest.
Swez
UKinstaller on 04/9/2007 00:27:52
not too bad to work on. easy to get through the firewall, not horrible to pull the radio, really easy to run wires through. the humdinger is that it's probably gonna be factory amplified and you'll have to bypass that. it will either be high in the passenger kickpanel or in the passenger side rear quarterpanel behind the carpet in the trunk.
door panels are kinda a PITA to pull off, but once you get the first one and figure out how to do it, the rest are easy. and yes there are definitely gonna be components in the front doors, more than likely a 4 inch "woofer" and a tweeter. should be 4 inch speakers all the way around.
is there a subwoofer in the rear deck??
-UK
jamesp on 04/9/2007 11:36:33
Thanks for the replies.
I will try and get a good look at the car this evening.
jamesp on 04/9/2007 20:16:27
I just checked out the Lexus. There is a subwoofer in the rear deck.
The Cd changer does work....If you turn the CD's the right way... it does seem odd to put the labels facing down so I didnt give my FIL too hard of a time. It actually sounds good especially at the volume he likes.
There is a problem though. The display is no good. It shows a disc number and track number but no radio station info.
I would like to find nice CD reciever with large buttons and an easy to read display that can be integrated into the cars dash and look like it belongs there.
Unlike my Ford truck, it isnt readily apparent how to remove the radio.
swez on 04/9/2007 22:58:03
Cute story on CD insertion procedure... LOL That a first on this site fer sure. hehe ("Green side up" said the sod layers' foreman)
The display has probably pooped out due to internal ribbon wire connections. Those are pretty delicate and over time, they act like computers and just fart out. In many cases, it can be repaired by a patient tech. But, that assumes one can get the HU out of the dash and then unpacked from the cage stack and resolder the iffy joints with pin-point accuracy. (I have some suggestions if you want to go there)
I'd bet $ you could do it though. Yeah Jimmy, you're that good when given a task and helpful directions. (Kudos my friend...) But, only if you are up to the task and have the proper tools and a steady hand.
Otherwise, consider the longer route and upgrade gear as FIL desires. If he's a die hard audiophile, you already know the steps. It's just a matter of digging in and taking things to the limit of his interests.
As you weigh the issues at hand, what's your gut tell you to do next?
Swez
PS Ford's use a 1 din receiver. Many Japanese cars use a 2.0 din HU's. Since this Lexus has a CD changer and Cassette player, it may be a 1.5 - 2.0 Din opening. Can you tell which this car has?
cplkittle on 04/10/2007 00:06:19
I just typed up a really nice suggestive reply, but I guess I timed out because when I hit the make reply button, I had to sign in. so I lost it all.
I wanted to recommend the Pioneer 2 din and 1.5 din radios..
specifically the FH-P4200MP and the DEH-P77DH.
http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/album/compare/0,,2076_310069880,00.html
jamesp on 04/10/2007 13:03:55
I believe the receiver is a 1.5 din. It looks like the same size as my stock Ford receiver face, whioch is wide and slopes down to 1 din behind the dash face.
Ill look at the Pioneer units when I get home to my high speed connection.
It looks like there may be a factory amp in the trunk behind a cover on the drivers side. I need to investigate farther.
Will Crutchfield sell thier master sheets? Ill see if they will as they helped me a lot on my truck
Off topic here but Saturday my in wall oven started beeping and flashing a code F-1. I took the top panel apart and found a schematic of the oven and a key to the codes. It says to replace the Electronic Control Module (the keypad w/ led readout).....well I looked around and the part was only 240.00 ha ha, but was listed as no longer made...no stock anywhere. Swez, it has 3 computer like ribbon connectors in it like you are talking about in the Lexus. This oven is 9 years old but cost over 800 bucks when I bought it. My appliance man said it is a common problem. Sure wish I could fix this thing...
swez on 04/10/2007 16:59:29
Have not done a lot of appliance repairs of late, but my guess is that the power supply in this module has gone kaput for one reason or another. If you know the manufacturer of this oven and give their service department a call, you may find someone who knows exactly what went wrong and how to fix it w/o replacing the whole module that are now extinct. Who knows, if there's a squirrel in the crew, he may have a few of these modules or parts tucked away for just this reason. It can't hurt to dig a little deeper.
Instinct tells me to suggest heating the controller guts with a hair drier for a few minutes and then try it again. If it comes back to life, look for electrolytic capacitors in this module that may have exceeded their MTBF. (Mean Time Before Failure)
When e-caps loose their values or leak a lot, (Current leakage, not electrolytes) the circuits that depend on them will often respond to a little external heat as a temporary fix and is a good diagnostic tool.
Finally, a good cleaning of the board with IPA, (Rubbing alcohol) may show something you can fix yourself. Look for hot spots on the board, off color soldering joints, damaged components or loose connections. Sometimes a poor assembly process will work for years and then quit w/o a hint of problems.
Good luck mate,
Swez
jamesp on 04/10/2007 21:25:41
Lexus...Crutchfield asks if system is a Nakamichi or not but cant tell me how to determine. Crutch also says that nobody makes a dash install kit for this car. I found one at Car Toys.
I checked out the car tonight and the main problem with the display is that the back lighting doesnt work. Most of the LED structure works, you just cant see it well with no back lighting. I played around with the system and it actually sounds good and will go pretty loud without distortion...so...I would love to know how to pull it out and scope it for any obvious problems.
Swez, the oven is a GE and other than showing the F-1 code and beeping, everything works perfectly. You can press a function such as bake and it will set...then advance the temp to the desidered level and set the timer...all works fine...then when you turn the unit off and only the clock shows, in 30 seconds it starts beeping and flashing the code. ..You can reset it and use it but you have to throw the breaker off when you are done because it will beep continuously....
When the control module is removed, the back side is easily accessed but the face with the invisible flush buttons is glued to the front...One web site I found the other night said the code can mean a diode or cap is failing...When I call GE..my manual calls it the answer center...all they will do is schedule a qualified GE repairman for a service call. I asked her why it is referred to as the answer center in my manual...she said "your manual is old" I would be miffed for a serviceman to come out and say..sorry, they dont make that part anymore..$100.00 please..Oh well, life goes on.
Thanks for the help.
swez on 04/11/2007 06:53:19
This may be a mite on the iffy side, but some electric/gas company suppliers offer a consumer protection plan that covers repair/replacement costs of all major home appliances. You sign up pay the $25.00 a month contract fee and then make request a service call from one of their repairmen. Once he fixes the problem or offers to replace the faulty appliance, cancel the plan and go about your business.
If you stay on the plan for a few months, that's fine and consider it a short-term insurance policy on your appliances. Just be sure to read the fine print on the contract.
FYI: I am now dealing our service provider as we got a bogus deal on the hot water heater. He, (Sub-contactor) called before coming out and I told him the unit was leaking water. He said we'd have to replace it on our own dime. I then called customer service and was about to cancel the policy and she told me the repairman should have come out, looked things over, filed a replacement order and done the job per the contract.
Hummmm, maybe this repairman filed a claim for working on the unit, got paid for doing nothing and he is about to have the hammer come down on his head. Either way, the new tank was over $300.00 plus my 2.5 hours of labor to remove the old one and install the new one. Now, I want some answers and am waiting for our service provider to research the whole deal and fork out some paybacks.
Swez
PS The last water heater was the same make and capacity. It cost $120.00 back in 1997. That same tank in now over $300.00. (Yes, I checked prices before buying) According to US Govt figures, we have little or moderate inflation in the past 7 years? Oh really? This water tank went up almost 260% in 10 years. What's up with that?
jamesp on 04/11/2007 07:55:30
Wow, I didnt know water heaters had gone up so much. In early 02 I sold 50 gal heaters, AO Smith, glass lined for 199. a 40 gal for a buck fifty. China has cornered the metal market. The 50# box of 8 cc nails that I bought wholesale for 13 dollars a box went to 30 dol;lars in 2005 or so. Metal roofing has nearly tripled....
I never responded to your fly line post but am not familar with that line co. Im out of touch with the fresh water stuff and getting behind on all of it lately. I have a lot of catching up to do....someday
Swez, I would really like to pull this Lexus unit and see if I could at least get the light fixed but looking at it, its no easy to see where to start...Ill keep trying....what does unpacking the cage stack refer to..removing the guts from the case??
swez on 04/11/2007 12:51:06
In some cars with multiple element players, (CD,Tape a AM/FM) GM uses a modular designed 1.5 Din stack. Each module can be removed from the stack for repairs and replacement. (Cage stacking)
I would not be surprised if that is a Nak HU as a factory radio. If you can afford the best cars, they can use high end audio gear too. Wish I could be more help in the removal stage Jimmy. Never done a Lexus before and in my area, not many can afford that level of car. If you get it out and get at the guts, then I may be able to help a bit. Some probing of the power cables to the display might prove on target.
We'll see on that new fishing line. It might be here by the end of the week and trout season opens on the 15th. So, am getting my gear together and ready for the season as time permits. I like the high float and high visability of this line, but hope it is not overly stiff and coils a lot in colder weather. This ebayer sells good products at very reasonable prices. I bought a #7 Quarrow rod from him last spring and for the price, it's not a Sage or Winston, but definitely on par w/ Redington, St.Croix and the Lefty Kreh TFO rods at 3x the price. (9'0", 3 pc, 44 MM IM-7, fine cork handles and nice guides/reel seat too) Under $100.00 online, inc S/H. Love this rod as it handles so well.
Yeah, that water heater was a real shock on the price this time around. I called a few stores and they were all priced the same for a #40, gas fired tank. I could see $150-200 for a new tank in 10 years, but almost 3 times the price??? The local hardware store won out as it was a 15 minute trip, start to finish and to heck w/ the big box store hassles when possible.
Swez
jamesp on 04/12/2007 11:54:27
One more bump to the top in hopes of info on removing the head unit from this Lexus ???? Any clues ?? UK i ??
swez on 04/13/2007 13:54:26
Bump ^
Swez
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