I rewired my amp cable today to accomadate more current draw, and a freind and I had discussed bypassing the stock wiring and running my old 8AWG to the H/U, but we couldn't come to a conclusion on what fuse to run here. The wire is already ran, but I had a 50 amp fuse in it, and I'm pretty sure thats overkill for my application at hand. What do you guys think, 10, 15 amps?
Replies (14)
UKinstaller on 04/1/2007 20:45:35
8 gauge wire really isn't necessary in this situation, but if you're gonna do it, fuse at 10 amps.
-UK
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/1/2007 21:53:24
I couldn't find a 10 amp fuse that size, so I am running a 20 for now. It's already done, and made quite a big difference over the stock. I'll probably find a 10 amp tube fuse, and use a spare holder with that.
Next up: Big 3.
swez on 04/1/2007 22:50:43
If just feeding the HU, most draw 10-15 amps of current at full power. There are inline "loop type" fuse holders for #8 wire that can use 10A ATC type auto fuses in any range you want. These cost about $4.00 at any decent car audio shop. All you'll need is large gage crimp connectors to complete the install like a pro.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/2/2007 10:28:33
It looks pretty good now, but the fuse block it too big. It was more as a measure to protect the battery than for the H/U itself. I will get the new fuse holder soon enough. They make fuses in 10 amps for the tubular amp cable fuses right? I have a spare Streetwires 8AWG holder just sittin round.....lookin cool........
Next question. I plan to do my big 3 wiring today, and actually have everything needed besides a meaty ground terminal. But the questions are, Do I need to fuse off my ALT-BATT cable, and will my current 5 Ga ground work safely with the 4 Ga power cable I will run? I will put on this meaty 0 ga wire when ebay ships my damn terminal, at the huge connector wont fit on my current terminal. Man I hate GM battery terminals! Whats the problem with them?
Also, I can't yet find a ground cable for my ALT. Am I blind, or is there something I am missing. Alternaters fall under the "Car" part of car audio, and really dont like working on the car part, as I tend to screw up. So I don't really remember any thing but a power cable and a plug on any alts. I have ever worked on.
The stock is like 10 ga for the power wire, and this NEEDS to be done. I need to man up and do it too. Any suggestions before I go outside.
swez on 04/2/2007 11:18:02
There is no ground cable for the ALT per-say. The engine block is the ground and is often connected to the body via a flat braided wire that is connected to the block and then terminated to a body ground. If you find that braided cable, just replace it with #4-5 wire you have now.
GM side terminals are a booger to work with. You have two main options:
1. Buy screw in battery posts and convert the aftermarket clamps or power terminals
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Battery%20Terminals
2. Buy extension bolts that allow one to add more wires to the battery post that are terminated by heavy gage ring connectors
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=GMBT
This extension can be found at many good autoparts stores as well for about $4.00.
This is a good inline fuse holder for your HU: (They are cheap and use standard ATC auto fuses) You can get them at any car stereo shop for cheap too.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-210
Yes, you can fuse the ALT/BAT line to protect your ALT from excess current draw that would normally shorten the life of the ALT. An inline fuse is needed here and the fuse value should be pretty much matched to your stock ALT's max current output rating. When using this method, remove the stock #10 wire and only use one heavy gage line here.
Hope that helps,
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/2/2007 11:23:17
I have the fuse holder listed currently installed. The wires are all ran now, and you confirmed my suspicion on the alternator ground. All I need now is a pack of connectors, and I'm off.
Also, I have terminals in the mail, I am just waiting for them. Some nice gold Monster units. They have seperate terminals at the top for accessories. I should just skip all this and get a top mount battery already. I also have my battery regrounded already, but the wire will be slightly smaller than the rest, and of lower quality. Will this be an issue?
swez on 04/2/2007 14:28:59
The ground wire from the battery to body should be about the same gage as the main power line from ALT to BAT. There are usually redundant grounds at the engine block, starter motor and several places in the body/chassis too. However, since they all connect eventually at the BAT, best to keep the same gage wire and keep it short as well.
Sounds like you're on track overall though. Good luck with your plans.
Swez
PS Yes, going to a top post mounted BAT is usually the best option as there is more connective hardware you can use for factory wires and your add ons. Just make sure your wires are long enough to make the trip. (Starter, ALT and other taps)
cplkittle on 04/2/2007 23:04:23
There are a few models of the yellow top that are top and side post.
When I did the big 3 on my car and a few other vehicles that I have upgraded, I tried to catch the ground near the alternator. I also used the same body or chassis ground for both the engine block and the battery.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/3/2007 10:40:37
My engine block and ground are grounded to tthe same place, the radiator suport. Didn't get anything done since my bro didn't pay me the $20 bucks he owes me so I can get solder and connectors.
Felt a huge difference in everything when I regrounded the engine block.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/4/2007 17:57:52
I got it done, and I found no sort of ground cable, braid or anything at all. I grounded the alternator straight to the shock tower. I replaced the positive battery terminal, and it has bare wire plug ins, and a GM adapter. Works pretty good. I am going to reground the battery again with 0 gauge when I get a different design of terminal.
Made a great impact on every aspect of my car. The stock wiring was about 10 GA, so I am sure my charging system is breathing alot better. Seems likes all my lights are 2X brighter too. Still dims pretty badly though.
swez on 04/4/2007 18:17:53
No doubt... this car probably has the common place CS 130 GM stock ALT and it's only rated for 105A's output max. At idle speeds, you'll get about have of that power and light dimming will be noticed at low RPM's.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/4/2007 19:30:25
You called it on the alternator. I figure before I modify the stereo any further, I will install a H/O alt.
swez on 04/4/2007 20:01:09
Yes, before you buy, calculate the amp current draw of all amp in your ride, (Add up the amp fuse values) and then add another 60A's for the rest of your cars' needs and that should do it.
Swez ;-)
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/4/2007 21:36:05
I was thinking of shooting for around about 100 Amps over 60, to allow for system expandability. I am actually satisfied with my system, but I am already bored with the current setup. It sounds good and all, but I just like to work, and rework, and redo my system as often as ideas and budget pop into question.
A nice battery has been found with both top and side posts, and will be purchased as soon as 130 greenbacks present themself to my wallet. My battery is old, worn, and I have killed it from leaving lights on and bumping with the engine off and working on it more times than I can remember. Not to mention how stripped the inside of the terminals are from some negligence of my brother when we added too many connectors. This is kind of a neccessity. After that, I want the H/O alt for the over the top systems I plan to install. A spare 100 amps definitely would come in handy.
I really want do redo my bass engine next, since amping my top end satisfied that urge nicely for now, but the charging system definitely needs some stiffening before I go too much further. My max possible current draw is at 60 amps now, and even with gains at less than 1 quarter for the subs, and completely flat for the speakers, the dimming and the like, especially with my aftermarket foglights drawing about 15 amps on top of all that.
I have killed a charging system with less than I have now, so I am concerned with doing anything that will leave my *** on the side of the road somewhere. I figure with a new alternator setup, I can probably go as crazy audiowise as I feel in the Bucket, and still be on the safe side of current draw.
Replies (14)
UKinstaller on 04/1/2007 20:45:35
8 gauge wire really isn't necessary in this situation, but if you're gonna do it, fuse at 10 amps.
-UK
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/1/2007 21:53:24
I couldn't find a 10 amp fuse that size, so I am running a 20 for now. It's already done, and made quite a big difference over the stock. I'll probably find a 10 amp tube fuse, and use a spare holder with that.
Next up: Big 3.
swez on 04/1/2007 22:50:43
If just feeding the HU, most draw 10-15 amps of current at full power. There are inline "loop type" fuse holders for #8 wire that can use 10A ATC type auto fuses in any range you want. These cost about $4.00 at any decent car audio shop. All you'll need is large gage crimp connectors to complete the install like a pro.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/2/2007 10:28:33
It looks pretty good now, but the fuse block it too big. It was more as a measure to protect the battery than for the H/U itself. I will get the new fuse holder soon enough. They make fuses in 10 amps for the tubular amp cable fuses right? I have a spare Streetwires 8AWG holder just sittin round.....lookin cool........
Next question. I plan to do my big 3 wiring today, and actually have everything needed besides a meaty ground terminal. But the questions are, Do I need to fuse off my ALT-BATT cable, and will my current 5 Ga ground work safely with the 4 Ga power cable I will run? I will put on this meaty 0 ga wire when ebay ships my damn terminal, at the huge connector wont fit on my current terminal. Man I hate GM battery terminals! Whats the problem with them?
Also, I can't yet find a ground cable for my ALT. Am I blind, or is there something I am missing. Alternaters fall under the "Car" part of car audio, and really dont like working on the car part, as I tend to screw up. So I don't really remember any thing but a power cable and a plug on any alts. I have ever worked on.
The stock is like 10 ga for the power wire, and this NEEDS to be done. I need to man up and do it too. Any suggestions before I go outside.
swez on 04/2/2007 11:18:02
There is no ground cable for the ALT per-say. The engine block is the ground and is often connected to the body via a flat braided wire that is connected to the block and then terminated to a body ground. If you find that braided cable, just replace it with #4-5 wire you have now.
GM side terminals are a booger to work with. You have two main options:
1. Buy screw in battery posts and convert the aftermarket clamps or power terminals
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Battery%20Terminals
2. Buy extension bolts that allow one to add more wires to the battery post that are terminated by heavy gage ring connectors
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=GMBT
This extension can be found at many good autoparts stores as well for about $4.00.
This is a good inline fuse holder for your HU: (They are cheap and use standard ATC auto fuses) You can get them at any car stereo shop for cheap too.
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=FH-210
Yes, you can fuse the ALT/BAT line to protect your ALT from excess current draw that would normally shorten the life of the ALT. An inline fuse is needed here and the fuse value should be pretty much matched to your stock ALT's max current output rating. When using this method, remove the stock #10 wire and only use one heavy gage line here.
Hope that helps,
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/2/2007 11:23:17
I have the fuse holder listed currently installed. The wires are all ran now, and you confirmed my suspicion on the alternator ground. All I need now is a pack of connectors, and I'm off.
Also, I have terminals in the mail, I am just waiting for them. Some nice gold Monster units. They have seperate terminals at the top for accessories. I should just skip all this and get a top mount battery already. I also have my battery regrounded already, but the wire will be slightly smaller than the rest, and of lower quality. Will this be an issue?
swez on 04/2/2007 14:28:59
The ground wire from the battery to body should be about the same gage as the main power line from ALT to BAT. There are usually redundant grounds at the engine block, starter motor and several places in the body/chassis too. However, since they all connect eventually at the BAT, best to keep the same gage wire and keep it short as well.
Sounds like you're on track overall though. Good luck with your plans.
Swez
PS Yes, going to a top post mounted BAT is usually the best option as there is more connective hardware you can use for factory wires and your add ons. Just make sure your wires are long enough to make the trip. (Starter, ALT and other taps)
cplkittle on 04/2/2007 23:04:23
There are a few models of the yellow top that are top and side post.
When I did the big 3 on my car and a few other vehicles that I have upgraded, I tried to catch the ground near the alternator. I also used the same body or chassis ground for both the engine block and the battery.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/3/2007 10:40:37
My engine block and ground are grounded to tthe same place, the radiator suport. Didn't get anything done since my bro didn't pay me the $20 bucks he owes me so I can get solder and connectors.
Felt a huge difference in everything when I regrounded the engine block.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/4/2007 17:57:52
I got it done, and I found no sort of ground cable, braid or anything at all. I grounded the alternator straight to the shock tower. I replaced the positive battery terminal, and it has bare wire plug ins, and a GM adapter. Works pretty good. I am going to reground the battery again with 0 gauge when I get a different design of terminal.
Made a great impact on every aspect of my car. The stock wiring was about 10 GA, so I am sure my charging system is breathing alot better. Seems likes all my lights are 2X brighter too. Still dims pretty badly though.
swez on 04/4/2007 18:17:53
No doubt... this car probably has the common place CS 130 GM stock ALT and it's only rated for 105A's output max. At idle speeds, you'll get about have of that power and light dimming will be noticed at low RPM's.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/4/2007 19:30:25
You called it on the alternator. I figure before I modify the stereo any further, I will install a H/O alt.
swez on 04/4/2007 20:01:09
Yes, before you buy, calculate the amp current draw of all amp in your ride, (Add up the amp fuse values) and then add another 60A's for the rest of your cars' needs and that should do it.
Swez ;-)
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 04/4/2007 21:36:05
I was thinking of shooting for around about 100 Amps over 60, to allow for system expandability. I am actually satisfied with my system, but I am already bored with the current setup. It sounds good and all, but I just like to work, and rework, and redo my system as often as ideas and budget pop into question.
A nice battery has been found with both top and side posts, and will be purchased as soon as 130 greenbacks present themself to my wallet. My battery is old, worn, and I have killed it from leaving lights on and bumping with the engine off and working on it more times than I can remember. Not to mention how stripped the inside of the terminals are from some negligence of my brother when we added too many connectors. This is kind of a neccessity. After that, I want the H/O alt for the over the top systems I plan to install. A spare 100 amps definitely would come in handy.
I really want do redo my bass engine next, since amping my top end satisfied that urge nicely for now, but the charging system definitely needs some stiffening before I go too much further. My max possible current draw is at 60 amps now, and even with gains at less than 1 quarter for the subs, and completely flat for the speakers, the dimming and the like, especially with my aftermarket foglights drawing about 15 amps on top of all that.
I have killed a charging system with less than I have now, so I am concerned with doing anything that will leave my *** on the side of the road somewhere. I figure with a new alternator setup, I can probably go as crazy audiowise as I feel in the Bucket, and still be on the safe side of current draw.
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