okay i know this topic has come up before but i could not find it nor could i remember can one use a car audio equipment in home audio and if so what would one need to acomplish this
i have been wanting to make well first a verry nice sub set up for my what now is weak set up and maybe eventually a full speaker setup but i have found that home audio is pretty expensive so what you say
Replies (17)
jamesp on 02/22/2007 20:27:51
Here is the link from the article section
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t7
swez on 02/22/2007 20:43:30
We can probably walk you through various options. Most of it depends on the sub(s) you choose, enclosure you prefer and power handling they will need.
Say a bit more on the topic and we can help you plan things out as needed.
Swez
raulbustos on 02/23/2007 00:39:52
well i have two spare subs here that i was thinking of using is a JBL gt 1000 or an audiobahn flame excursion aw121t
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Boxes%20and%20Parameters/GT1000.pdf
raulbustos on 02/23/2007 00:50:53
one thing here now correct me if im wrong but i believe that back in my day i was tought that bateries release dangerous gasses hence why they never let me smoke next to a battery so would it be safe to have one of these in your house ? second would it be possible to feed the car amp the audiosignal from my dvd player it is actually one of those "sony dream systems" dav s500
http://www3.shopping.com/xPR-Sony-DAV-S500~RD-41849818756?convertedToHyphens=true
cplkittle on 02/23/2007 01:06:50
hydrogen gas is the biproduct of a charging battery.
The same stuff that was in the hindenburg when it exploded.
MrBrownstone on 02/23/2007 01:35:22
We say this as a car mechanic in the 1970s used to smoke while replacing a fuel pump and fuel filter :-)
The main difference between home audio and car is that you have
a) different sources of power, and
b) space restrictions.
POWER
In a nutshell, you have about ~40 amps of current at 110 volts in the home (4400W) FULL TIME and in the car, you have 40 amps of current @ 13.8V available for fractions of a section...then you have a battery at 12.8V available until the alternator catches up.
The car audio amplifier is designed to be as space efficient as possible, current efficient as possible, AND, operate under extreme conditions. Home audio amplifiers are designed to be the opposite...but are usually more complex.
Concerning speakers, since the mobile environment is noisy, extra power is consumed just to offset road noise. This is also whay subwoofers can handle (and are asked to handle) much more power.
SPACE
In the home, we can afford 1.75cuft boxes for a single 10" woofer. This is why the magnet on a home audio speaker is the size of a hockey puck. In the car, we don't have the luxury of space, therefore, the woofer must be designed to operate in an enclosure of ~0.5 to 0.75 cuft.
___________________
So to make a short story even longer, you can still use car audio equipment in the home, it's just designed differently. You can still use HOME audio in the car, but prepare to give up much space to accomplish this.
swez on 02/23/2007 07:42:57
Whoa there Mr. B. Something is amiss on your comment about home based electicals. A typical home is wired with #14 or #12 gage lines.
A #14 line is rated at 15 amperes and will provide up to 1800 watts of continous power. (120 VAC nominal) If we exceed that current draw limit, the fuse or circuit breaker will trip.
A #12 line is rated at 20 amperes and will provide up to 2400 watts of continous power. (120 VAC nominal) If we exceed that current draw limit, the fuse or circuit breaker will trip.
One option to consider for home use, look at plate type amps for your sub. These are 120 volt AC designs and most prefer 4-8 ohm loads. This is probably cheaper then a DC power supply and battery and safer too.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-804
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-750#
That 10" JBL Sub noted is well suited to either of these amps and can be used in sealed or ported enclosures.
The Bahn 12" sub will also work, but your best option here is a sealed enclosure. Yes, it can be ported, but the power handling of this sub is somewhat higher than either amp can provide. Usable yes, optimal... maybe not.
Both subs are very efficient with power here. The 10" JBLwill give nice lows when ported. The Bahn 12" will go a bit lower in a larger box design, but use either sealed or the "Everyday" ported enclosure for tight, accurate bass.
Swez
raulbustos on 02/23/2007 10:33:06
oh and one other thing here is i do have an old audiobahn amplifier (a8000t) that is curently being used as a paperweight this is one that a friend gave to me it wasn't working it would shut of in about 30 seconds when he played it well i hokked it up in my car and it did the same but that was both times at a 2 ohm load when i only conected it to one speaker it ran fine for about 3 hours and then shuts off i think this would work okay since it wouldent relly be runing the whole time and most movies arent longer than 3 hours what you think
ps i like the DAYTON SA240
swez on 02/23/2007 14:03:44
Try that Bahn amp in 2 channel mode if you have a 2 ohm speaker load. Just use one channel and see if it works OK then.
That Dayton plate amp will power either sub mentioned earlier. It's a Subwoofer only MONO amp. It is designed for 4 ohm loads or higher. The anti-clipping circuits work very well on this model and at full power, distortion numbers are well below audible.
Read this review for more details. After reading it all, this reviewer gave this amp a very good set of marks on all features and performance:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/300-804r.pdf
For the low price on this amp, hard to beat this little beast in power, performance and protection circuitry.
Swez
MrBrownstone on 02/23/2007 15:22:55
I gotta stop looking at the fuses in my fusebox.
cplkittle on 02/23/2007 19:25:03
Mr, B. tell me you are not one of those 'if you blow a fuse, that means you need a bigger one' kind of guys.
swez on 02/23/2007 21:01:46
Nopper, he knows better than to do that. Pennies work much better and are cheaper than a screw-in fuse. GRIN
Of coarse, if the house burns down and insurance adjuster see pennies in the fuse box, that will probably be enough to void the policy and put the loss back on the owner.
Swez
raulbustos on 02/27/2007 00:33:18
just for some back round that amp is a class ab mono claims 400 rms at 4 ohms and 800 rms at 2 ohms
it would be nice if i could get this made with out spending any extra money ( except building suplies) i think that i have all most every thing that i neeed what do yall say ?
swez on 02/27/2007 01:26:58
If you had a variable DC power supply that can provide a steady 12.5 -14.4 volts and say 40-60 amperes of current, sure... why not use it.
Swez
raulbustos on 03/2/2007 18:49:07
wher can one find one of these?are they worth it
swez on 03/2/2007 20:13:29
Probably not unless you found a good one at a flea market, swap or CB/Ham show. Here's one that would work and can deliver 32 amperes of current and variable voltage too. (12.0-15.0 VDC)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=120-556&raid=42&rak=120-556 ($145.00 + S/H)
The math: 14.4 volts x 32 amps - 460.8 watts continous which would feed your Bahn amp to about 300 watts RMS output. (Good battery charger too, I would think)
That Bash 300S is a better deal if used only for bass in the house. That's $150.00 but much lighter to ship than the the power supply too.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-750#
Either way you slice it, that's about $170.00, give or take a few bucks in S/H fees.
Swez
gearhead on 03/16/2007 09:38:50
If you keep your eyes open on eBay, you can find a Kepco/TDK RAX 12-125K power supply in the $75-$150 range. 125A@12v. Voltage has enough adjustment to get 13.8v. It's a discontinued model, but originally retailed for over $1000. I've never had any problem with mine.
i have been wanting to make well first a verry nice sub set up for my what now is weak set up and maybe eventually a full speaker setup but i have found that home audio is pretty expensive so what you say
Replies (17)
jamesp on 02/22/2007 20:27:51
Here is the link from the article section
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t7
swez on 02/22/2007 20:43:30
We can probably walk you through various options. Most of it depends on the sub(s) you choose, enclosure you prefer and power handling they will need.
Say a bit more on the topic and we can help you plan things out as needed.
Swez
raulbustos on 02/23/2007 00:39:52
well i have two spare subs here that i was thinking of using is a JBL gt 1000 or an audiobahn flame excursion aw121t
http://manuals.harman.com/JBL/CAR/Boxes%20and%20Parameters/GT1000.pdf
raulbustos on 02/23/2007 00:50:53
one thing here now correct me if im wrong but i believe that back in my day i was tought that bateries release dangerous gasses hence why they never let me smoke next to a battery so would it be safe to have one of these in your house ? second would it be possible to feed the car amp the audiosignal from my dvd player it is actually one of those "sony dream systems" dav s500
http://www3.shopping.com/xPR-Sony-DAV-S500~RD-41849818756?convertedToHyphens=true
cplkittle on 02/23/2007 01:06:50
hydrogen gas is the biproduct of a charging battery.
The same stuff that was in the hindenburg when it exploded.
MrBrownstone on 02/23/2007 01:35:22
We say this as a car mechanic in the 1970s used to smoke while replacing a fuel pump and fuel filter :-)
The main difference between home audio and car is that you have
a) different sources of power, and
b) space restrictions.
POWER
In a nutshell, you have about ~40 amps of current at 110 volts in the home (4400W) FULL TIME and in the car, you have 40 amps of current @ 13.8V available for fractions of a section...then you have a battery at 12.8V available until the alternator catches up.
The car audio amplifier is designed to be as space efficient as possible, current efficient as possible, AND, operate under extreme conditions. Home audio amplifiers are designed to be the opposite...but are usually more complex.
Concerning speakers, since the mobile environment is noisy, extra power is consumed just to offset road noise. This is also whay subwoofers can handle (and are asked to handle) much more power.
SPACE
In the home, we can afford 1.75cuft boxes for a single 10" woofer. This is why the magnet on a home audio speaker is the size of a hockey puck. In the car, we don't have the luxury of space, therefore, the woofer must be designed to operate in an enclosure of ~0.5 to 0.75 cuft.
___________________
So to make a short story even longer, you can still use car audio equipment in the home, it's just designed differently. You can still use HOME audio in the car, but prepare to give up much space to accomplish this.
swez on 02/23/2007 07:42:57
Whoa there Mr. B. Something is amiss on your comment about home based electicals. A typical home is wired with #14 or #12 gage lines.
A #14 line is rated at 15 amperes and will provide up to 1800 watts of continous power. (120 VAC nominal) If we exceed that current draw limit, the fuse or circuit breaker will trip.
A #12 line is rated at 20 amperes and will provide up to 2400 watts of continous power. (120 VAC nominal) If we exceed that current draw limit, the fuse or circuit breaker will trip.
One option to consider for home use, look at plate type amps for your sub. These are 120 volt AC designs and most prefer 4-8 ohm loads. This is probably cheaper then a DC power supply and battery and safer too.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-804
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-750#
That 10" JBL Sub noted is well suited to either of these amps and can be used in sealed or ported enclosures.
The Bahn 12" sub will also work, but your best option here is a sealed enclosure. Yes, it can be ported, but the power handling of this sub is somewhat higher than either amp can provide. Usable yes, optimal... maybe not.
Both subs are very efficient with power here. The 10" JBLwill give nice lows when ported. The Bahn 12" will go a bit lower in a larger box design, but use either sealed or the "Everyday" ported enclosure for tight, accurate bass.
Swez
raulbustos on 02/23/2007 10:33:06
oh and one other thing here is i do have an old audiobahn amplifier (a8000t) that is curently being used as a paperweight this is one that a friend gave to me it wasn't working it would shut of in about 30 seconds when he played it well i hokked it up in my car and it did the same but that was both times at a 2 ohm load when i only conected it to one speaker it ran fine for about 3 hours and then shuts off i think this would work okay since it wouldent relly be runing the whole time and most movies arent longer than 3 hours what you think
ps i like the DAYTON SA240
swez on 02/23/2007 14:03:44
Try that Bahn amp in 2 channel mode if you have a 2 ohm speaker load. Just use one channel and see if it works OK then.
That Dayton plate amp will power either sub mentioned earlier. It's a Subwoofer only MONO amp. It is designed for 4 ohm loads or higher. The anti-clipping circuits work very well on this model and at full power, distortion numbers are well below audible.
Read this review for more details. After reading it all, this reviewer gave this amp a very good set of marks on all features and performance:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pdf/300-804r.pdf
For the low price on this amp, hard to beat this little beast in power, performance and protection circuitry.
Swez
MrBrownstone on 02/23/2007 15:22:55
I gotta stop looking at the fuses in my fusebox.
cplkittle on 02/23/2007 19:25:03
Mr, B. tell me you are not one of those 'if you blow a fuse, that means you need a bigger one' kind of guys.
swez on 02/23/2007 21:01:46
Nopper, he knows better than to do that. Pennies work much better and are cheaper than a screw-in fuse. GRIN
Of coarse, if the house burns down and insurance adjuster see pennies in the fuse box, that will probably be enough to void the policy and put the loss back on the owner.
Swez
raulbustos on 02/27/2007 00:33:18
just for some back round that amp is a class ab mono claims 400 rms at 4 ohms and 800 rms at 2 ohms
it would be nice if i could get this made with out spending any extra money ( except building suplies) i think that i have all most every thing that i neeed what do yall say ?
swez on 02/27/2007 01:26:58
If you had a variable DC power supply that can provide a steady 12.5 -14.4 volts and say 40-60 amperes of current, sure... why not use it.
Swez
raulbustos on 03/2/2007 18:49:07
wher can one find one of these?are they worth it
swez on 03/2/2007 20:13:29
Probably not unless you found a good one at a flea market, swap or CB/Ham show. Here's one that would work and can deliver 32 amperes of current and variable voltage too. (12.0-15.0 VDC)
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshowdetl.cfm?PartNumber=120-556&raid=42&rak=120-556 ($145.00 + S/H)
The math: 14.4 volts x 32 amps - 460.8 watts continous which would feed your Bahn amp to about 300 watts RMS output. (Good battery charger too, I would think)
That Bash 300S is a better deal if used only for bass in the house. That's $150.00 but much lighter to ship than the the power supply too.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-750#
Either way you slice it, that's about $170.00, give or take a few bucks in S/H fees.
Swez
gearhead on 03/16/2007 09:38:50
If you keep your eyes open on eBay, you can find a Kepco/TDK RAX 12-125K power supply in the $75-$150 range. 125A@12v. Voltage has enough adjustment to get 13.8v. It's a discontinued model, but originally retailed for over $1000. I've never had any problem with mine.
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