Trying to install new system in my 300zx after removing Bose system. After looking at archives, I still had a few questions to be answered. If someone could please help? Noobie who is neeeeedy??
The car has:
90 amp alternator
Optima r top 800cca
Trying to install:
Alpine cda 7894 deck 60wx4
Infinity 7541 4 ch. amp 4x111 rms powering
Mb qt pce-216 6.5" up front 60-130 rms
Audiobahn ahq40 4x6" rears 80 rms
Kenwood 9102d monoamp powering rms 500 @ 4ohms 850-2
kicker 0610l7-4ohm sub 600 rms
New to installing and need advise, knowing this:
1) Want to power speakers especially mbq's to full potential any suggestions?
Looking at wiring kits.
2) Should I get stinger swckh44 with all included? or go with buying cheaper kit
Knukonceptz Item #KOL-AK44 its a 4ga. wiring kit.
and buy wiring distribution and grounding block/ cap and accessories elsewhere.
3) Would need 16ga. speaker wire or 15 14ga for mbq's?
4) Is cap necessary in my case? really don't want new alternator just don't want damage to car internals.
Will study "big 3" and try to use.
Haven't bought kwood 9102d yet, but can get good deal.
5) Should other alternatives be considered? not much on brand hype just want better power ratings and quality @ kwood $170 price.
6) Going to run kicker sub @ 2ohms right? Building own sealed enclosure and trying to stay within .66-1 cu ft. parameter. Design is trapezoidal in structure. OK to err on small or large side of cu. ft ??
7) Used sound dampener in all areas of car- raatmat. Expensive!!! Stock enclosures left in door, built mdf for speaker face hole for 6.5's but 4x6 needed oem bracket and is open. Want best possible sound. should I buy baffles for all speakers install and seal areas with egg crate foam material for cheaper dampening?
Would love to post pics and share info while installing as well as completed. thank you for time and knowledge.
Replies (1)
cplkittle on 01/28/2007 20:20:10
First of all, nice car (I used to have one). And thank you thank you thank you for reviewing the diy section first This should be really easy for all of us and you especially.
Speakers and Amps:
Good matchup. You can run new wires to each speaker (back ones will be easy) if you want, but this is not really necessary. You can tie in to the factory behind the radio if you want. The factory wires are sufficient to carry over 100w RMS. The sub box being sealed, you can go either way. I would lean toward the larger side , but not over 1.25 cu ft. The larger the box, the deeper the response, but it's not a huge difference between .75 and 1.25.
Wiring:
4 gauge is fine here. The stinger kit looks pretty sweet, I have worked in car audio for awhile, and haven't seen that one yet.
It's a little flashy, it all depends on how much you want to spend on showiness.
Definitely the big 3. I think all things considered, you will be fine.
I would hold off on sound dampening until it is all installed. Then find the rattles and take care of them one at a time. Most dampening material is pretty much the same (compare by thickness).
The easiest way to post pictures is by links to yahoo photos or photobucket..
The car has:
90 amp alternator
Optima r top 800cca
Trying to install:
Alpine cda 7894 deck 60wx4
Infinity 7541 4 ch. amp 4x111 rms powering
Mb qt pce-216 6.5" up front 60-130 rms
Audiobahn ahq40 4x6" rears 80 rms
Kenwood 9102d monoamp powering rms 500 @ 4ohms 850-2
kicker 0610l7-4ohm sub 600 rms
New to installing and need advise, knowing this:
1) Want to power speakers especially mbq's to full potential any suggestions?
Looking at wiring kits.
2) Should I get stinger swckh44 with all included? or go with buying cheaper kit
Knukonceptz Item #KOL-AK44 its a 4ga. wiring kit.
and buy wiring distribution and grounding block/ cap and accessories elsewhere.
3) Would need 16ga. speaker wire or 15 14ga for mbq's?
4) Is cap necessary in my case? really don't want new alternator just don't want damage to car internals.
Will study "big 3" and try to use.
Haven't bought kwood 9102d yet, but can get good deal.
5) Should other alternatives be considered? not much on brand hype just want better power ratings and quality @ kwood $170 price.
6) Going to run kicker sub @ 2ohms right? Building own sealed enclosure and trying to stay within .66-1 cu ft. parameter. Design is trapezoidal in structure. OK to err on small or large side of cu. ft ??
7) Used sound dampener in all areas of car- raatmat. Expensive!!! Stock enclosures left in door, built mdf for speaker face hole for 6.5's but 4x6 needed oem bracket and is open. Want best possible sound. should I buy baffles for all speakers install and seal areas with egg crate foam material for cheaper dampening?
Would love to post pics and share info while installing as well as completed. thank you for time and knowledge.
Replies (1)
cplkittle on 01/28/2007 20:20:10
First of all, nice car (I used to have one). And thank you thank you thank you for reviewing the diy section first This should be really easy for all of us and you especially.
Speakers and Amps:
Good matchup. You can run new wires to each speaker (back ones will be easy) if you want, but this is not really necessary. You can tie in to the factory behind the radio if you want. The factory wires are sufficient to carry over 100w RMS. The sub box being sealed, you can go either way. I would lean toward the larger side , but not over 1.25 cu ft. The larger the box, the deeper the response, but it's not a huge difference between .75 and 1.25.
Wiring:
4 gauge is fine here. The stinger kit looks pretty sweet, I have worked in car audio for awhile, and haven't seen that one yet.
It's a little flashy, it all depends on how much you want to spend on showiness.
Definitely the big 3. I think all things considered, you will be fine.
I would hold off on sound dampening until it is all installed. Then find the rattles and take care of them one at a time. Most dampening material is pretty much the same (compare by thickness).
The easiest way to post pictures is by links to yahoo photos or photobucket..
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