Good day to all!
Finally was able to set up my Honda Civic 96 as follows:
Pioneer DEH-P5450 head unit
JBL GTO 75.4II 4ch amp
JBL GTO 6507C component speakers (ch 1/2)
Infinity Reference 1050W 10" sub in a ported box (bridged ch 3/4)
Blaupunkt component speakers in the rear (wired directly to the head unit)
Problem is this, during the first 5 minutes when i play the system (specifically in the morning on my way to work), the amp would turn off and on for about 5-10 seconds. This would repeat for about 3-4 times until i get continuous music all throughout. I figured it could be a loose connection on the amp, but checked the wiring and it was fine. Note only the amp goes off. The head unit continues playing (and i get music from the rear speakers wired directly).
Any inputs on what may be causing it. Thinking it could be the battery since it happens only when i start the day.
Replies (8)
swez on 01/28/2007 09:13:32
Intermittent issues like this one, are the harder ones to troubleshoot.
If you have a Voltmeter, this is the right tool for the job. Using the DC voltage scale:
1. Measure the voltage between your REM and ground lugs. It should read a steady 10-12 volts. If the voltage here drops or quits altogether, the amp will turn off (You'll need to monitor this as the amp cycles on and off)
2. If REM is constant and does not drop out, then measure the DC voltage at the power and grounding lugs on the amp. Here, you should read a range between 12.5 to 14.4 volts DC. If the voltage drops below about 11.0 volts, the amp may shut down. Just monitor it with your heater, rear window defogger and headlights on. This is the worst case scenario for most cars and may indicate alternator or weak battery issues.
Don't have a meter? Please get one! One can buy an inexpensive Digital readout meter for about $20.00 at Wal-Mart, Radio Shack or any good home supply store like Home Depot ect.
Once you have run the mentioned tests, come back with your findings and we'll give further instructions.
Swez
PS Do you see signs of moisture build up on the amp casing in the morning? If yes, cover it with a towel at night before you call it a day.
rldelrosario on 01/28/2007 19:50:54
Good day Swez
Thanks for the input. Will run those tests you suggested. Another thing i noticed is that the head unit lights would fade in/out when i pump up the volume specially at night. My guess is a weak battery or the alternator.
Again thanks a lot.
cplkittle on 01/28/2007 20:29:30
Since you are bridging the sub on channels 3&4, what is the sub voice coil config in resistance? sounds like you have it wired to 2 ohms. (only stable at 4)... just a guess.
rldelrosario on 01/29/2007 03:41:37
Sub is an infinity ref 1050w single voice coil. Impedance 4 ohms
http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='REF1050W'&Ser=REF&Cat=SUB
. Would really appreciate inputs. Thanks.
swez on 01/29/2007 05:33:20
The JBL Comps are 2 ohms and your sub is a 4 ohm, SVC model. This combination will definitely press your vehicle electricals to the limits on this little car.
The main focus points I see here are:
1. ALT/BAT are working properly
2. Solid electrical connections at BAT, fuse and amp (Main power line)
3. A steady REM voltage from HU
4. Tight connections at the HU wiring harness
The rear speakers are powered off the HU yes? Do they always play or do they shut off and cycle too?
In this car, I would expect a little light dimming at idle speeds. However, if the ALT is up to snuff and the BAT is in good shape, (Not more than 3-4 years old) minor light dimming is just a reaction to limited ALT output at low RPM's.
Since this is an older car, you might want to have the ALT/BAT checked out by a qualified Tech. If the ALT is not putting out spec'd voltage and current, other parts of the car will not be up to par either.
Most good autoparts stores have portable test equipment and can do a good diagnostics test on ALT & BAT, right in the parking lot of service bay. In most cases, this service is free. Knowing your electrical system is up to snuff, eliminates several steps in the diagnostics chain.
Swez
rldelrosario on 01/29/2007 11:07:59
Good day Swez.
The rear speakers wired directly to the head unit continues to play when the amp goes off. My hunch is either the alternator or a weak battery. Will take your advice to have it checked.
Also, you mentioned that the JBL comps and the Infinity sub are pushing my electricals. Does this mean i'm putting risk to the car or the amp?
Thanks again
swez on 01/29/2007 14:32:40
That amp can handle the job as you now have it set up. However, current draw will be more notable as you are pulling every amplifier circuit down to its minimim load resistance. It can handle it, if your electrical supply is up to snuff.
Rear speakers do work... good! That pretty much eliminates most HU issues.
Once you get your electrical system checked out, we'll have another piece of the puzzle in hand.
Swez
rldelrosario on 01/29/2007 19:35:44
Right. OK will have the battery & alternator checked. Thanks a lot.
Ronald
Finally was able to set up my Honda Civic 96 as follows:
Pioneer DEH-P5450 head unit
JBL GTO 75.4II 4ch amp
JBL GTO 6507C component speakers (ch 1/2)
Infinity Reference 1050W 10" sub in a ported box (bridged ch 3/4)
Blaupunkt component speakers in the rear (wired directly to the head unit)
Problem is this, during the first 5 minutes when i play the system (specifically in the morning on my way to work), the amp would turn off and on for about 5-10 seconds. This would repeat for about 3-4 times until i get continuous music all throughout. I figured it could be a loose connection on the amp, but checked the wiring and it was fine. Note only the amp goes off. The head unit continues playing (and i get music from the rear speakers wired directly).
Any inputs on what may be causing it. Thinking it could be the battery since it happens only when i start the day.
Replies (8)
swez on 01/28/2007 09:13:32
Intermittent issues like this one, are the harder ones to troubleshoot.
If you have a Voltmeter, this is the right tool for the job. Using the DC voltage scale:
1. Measure the voltage between your REM and ground lugs. It should read a steady 10-12 volts. If the voltage here drops or quits altogether, the amp will turn off (You'll need to monitor this as the amp cycles on and off)
2. If REM is constant and does not drop out, then measure the DC voltage at the power and grounding lugs on the amp. Here, you should read a range between 12.5 to 14.4 volts DC. If the voltage drops below about 11.0 volts, the amp may shut down. Just monitor it with your heater, rear window defogger and headlights on. This is the worst case scenario for most cars and may indicate alternator or weak battery issues.
Don't have a meter? Please get one! One can buy an inexpensive Digital readout meter for about $20.00 at Wal-Mart, Radio Shack or any good home supply store like Home Depot ect.
Once you have run the mentioned tests, come back with your findings and we'll give further instructions.
Swez
PS Do you see signs of moisture build up on the amp casing in the morning? If yes, cover it with a towel at night before you call it a day.
rldelrosario on 01/28/2007 19:50:54
Good day Swez
Thanks for the input. Will run those tests you suggested. Another thing i noticed is that the head unit lights would fade in/out when i pump up the volume specially at night. My guess is a weak battery or the alternator.
Again thanks a lot.
cplkittle on 01/28/2007 20:29:30
Since you are bridging the sub on channels 3&4, what is the sub voice coil config in resistance? sounds like you have it wired to 2 ohms. (only stable at 4)... just a guess.
rldelrosario on 01/29/2007 03:41:37
Sub is an infinity ref 1050w single voice coil. Impedance 4 ohms
http://www.infinitysystems.com/caraudio/product.aspx?ProdId='REF1050W'&Ser=REF&Cat=SUB
. Would really appreciate inputs. Thanks.
swez on 01/29/2007 05:33:20
The JBL Comps are 2 ohms and your sub is a 4 ohm, SVC model. This combination will definitely press your vehicle electricals to the limits on this little car.
The main focus points I see here are:
1. ALT/BAT are working properly
2. Solid electrical connections at BAT, fuse and amp (Main power line)
3. A steady REM voltage from HU
4. Tight connections at the HU wiring harness
The rear speakers are powered off the HU yes? Do they always play or do they shut off and cycle too?
In this car, I would expect a little light dimming at idle speeds. However, if the ALT is up to snuff and the BAT is in good shape, (Not more than 3-4 years old) minor light dimming is just a reaction to limited ALT output at low RPM's.
Since this is an older car, you might want to have the ALT/BAT checked out by a qualified Tech. If the ALT is not putting out spec'd voltage and current, other parts of the car will not be up to par either.
Most good autoparts stores have portable test equipment and can do a good diagnostics test on ALT & BAT, right in the parking lot of service bay. In most cases, this service is free. Knowing your electrical system is up to snuff, eliminates several steps in the diagnostics chain.
Swez
rldelrosario on 01/29/2007 11:07:59
Good day Swez.
The rear speakers wired directly to the head unit continues to play when the amp goes off. My hunch is either the alternator or a weak battery. Will take your advice to have it checked.
Also, you mentioned that the JBL comps and the Infinity sub are pushing my electricals. Does this mean i'm putting risk to the car or the amp?
Thanks again
swez on 01/29/2007 14:32:40
That amp can handle the job as you now have it set up. However, current draw will be more notable as you are pulling every amplifier circuit down to its minimim load resistance. It can handle it, if your electrical supply is up to snuff.
Rear speakers do work... good! That pretty much eliminates most HU issues.
Once you get your electrical system checked out, we'll have another piece of the puzzle in hand.
Swez
rldelrosario on 01/29/2007 19:35:44
Right. OK will have the battery & alternator checked. Thanks a lot.
Ronald
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