Hi all,
Has anyone ever work on a 1995 Mitsubishi Montero? This is by far the most confusing factory head unit to take out... I even got the lame Scoshe installation manual, which doesn't explain anything (no wonder i've never used one before).
I'm not gonna bother explaining why it's so difficult, because if you've ever worked on one, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
-Ian-
Replies (17)
cplkittle on 01/27/2007 13:43:54
I think I might have done 1 of these in the last 3 years, and don't remember it at all. ttocs, uk?
cybersailor420 on 01/29/2007 23:37:53
So I finally got the factory head unit out, after drilling out a few screws...
The problem I'm having now is that the car won't start. I didn't use a wiring harness. After I had cut off the factory harness, the car still started. I traced all the wires and hooked up the new head unit, which works fine. I still had 3 wires left over from the factory harness, not exactly sure what they're for. I reinstalled everything, and now the car won't start.
I disassembled pretty much everything, including unplugging the new head unit, and didn't find any damaged wires or anything that seems to be out of place.
When trying to start the car, it turns over, but doesn't start. The strange thing that happens now is that the parking lights and the dash lights blink, and i hear a beeping noise. The car has a security light, but it doesn't have an alarm.
The only thing I can think of is that maybe it has an ignition kill switch or something... I found a magnetic shock sensor behind the glove box, so I have no idea what other stuff this vehicle might have come with.
ANY IDEAS?????
I'm going to try hooking up the old head unit in the morning, if i can't find anything else wrong. Hope one of you can help me with this!
-Ian-
cplkittle on 01/29/2007 23:40:05
did you disconnect the battery?
ttocs on 01/29/2007 23:41:01
its been a while since I saw one. have you checked the battery level? After having the door open for a long time you could have ran it down. Is there a voltage gauge on the dash?
cplkittle on 01/29/2007 23:55:57
Sounds like a fault in a immobilizer chip or something, but I'm not showing that that car would have one.
Does the security light blink when you turn the key foreward 2 clicks (don't try to start it)?
Since the engine is turning over, it's not a starter kill, that would cut power to the starter. Either the power to the coil packs is disabled or the fuel pump is disabled.
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 00:12:29
Thanx for the quick responses guys.
All fuses are good. The security light does not stop blinking regardless of what position the key is in.
The fuel pump was my first thought too. However, I did not see a fuse for it.
The battery is at about 12.5 volts, and goes down to about 10.8 while trying to start it. Seems like it should be fine to me, but I might throw some jumper cables on it in the morning just to see if it helps.
Any ideas on how to bypass this if it does have some kind of immobilizing circuit? Should I hook the old head unit up and see if that fixes it?
-Ian-
cplkittle on 01/30/2007 00:20:08
Put the key in the ignition and leave it on for 15 minutes ( do not try to crank ) after 15 minutes the security light should stop blinking and you will be able to start the vehicle.
For some reason your car seems to have a chip in the key (most that year don't) , and somehow your vehicle thought it was being stolen. This should work. If it don't let us know.
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 00:51:57
thanks so much for the help. I'm gonna try it first thing in the morning. I'll let you know what happens.
-Ian-
swez on 01/30/2007 06:52:43
If he leaves the key in IGN position for that long and does not shut off other devices, won't that drain the battery to a point that the starter will not turn over?
It seems like the stock HU may have a security feature that triggers the "OK to Start" circuits. Removing this HU may signal the "Do Not Start" feature???
I agree... it's probably either the fuel pump or the coil pack shutting off here. There must be a bypass feature here that one can employ to get this SUV to start.
Am wondering if this stock HU has a security code feature and when removed, the car will not start? Reinstalling the HU may not help w/o resetting the codes.
Man, I'm glad I don't do this kind of work for a living. LOL
Swez
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 09:39:46
Swez, I was thinking the same thing about the factory head unit. However, I was able to start the car several times since removing it and cutting the harness off. Either it just took a while to kick in, or its something else...
I'm gonna head over to the guys house in a litte bit and try it. I'll probably put the jumper cables on just to make sure I have enough battery power.
Any more ideas would be more than welcomed.
-Ian-
cplkittle on 01/30/2007 10:07:55
the key in the on position works with different vehicles, GM for sure. If an attempt to start is made (testing remote start) without the proper key bypass it will go into theft mode. To remove it from theft mode, you have to turn the key to the on position for 15 minutes (of course you turn off the air and anything that would drain the battery further). This anti theft mode is identifiable by the continuous flashing theft light when the key is in the on position.
I have never heard of the radio preventing the vehicle from starting though.
Anytime you work on a vehicle where the key is going to be in the ignition on occasion, it is wise to roll down at least one window to prevent the keys from being locked in.
swez on 01/30/2007 10:20:05
Keys locked in the car is a PITA... My Dad's vehicles have remote starters and if you leave the key in the ignition, the doors lock automatically. Whenever I do some fiddling here, I always crack a window now. So true, O man of great wisdom!
Swez
cplkittle on 01/30/2007 10:31:10
I even have a $80 break in kit, but I'd rather not lock them in to begin with. That's the only tool I don't like to use.
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 12:25:45
So I just talked to the owner of the car, and he said leaving the key on for 15 minutes and then trying to start it didn't work. I also just talked to crutchfield, and they said they don't see anything involving the head unit that would cause the car not to start. He also mentioned that it sounded like a problem with the fuel pump.
I'm going to look at the car myself. Let me know if anything else comes to mind...
Thanks again guys.
-Ian-
ttocs on 01/30/2007 12:41:12
but the starter isn't cranking, but is drawing voltage to drop the voltage at the battery? I would look at the starter, maybe give it a gently nudge with a hammer to see if the cold weather could have locked it up.
swez on 01/30/2007 13:42:22
He mentioned the starter does crank, but the engine will not fire up.
In most Fuel Injected systems, you will hear the fuel pump turn on as soon as the key is moved to the IGN/Start position. It will sound like a muffled mechanical chatter or buzzing sounds, near the gas tank. Most pumps are now mounted in or very close to fuel tank.
If you don't here that chatter/buzz sound, the fuel pump may not be triggering to provide adequate fuel pressure to start the engine.
It's also easy to test the coil pack too. Just pull one spark plug wire, grab a long handled, insulated handle screwdriver and insert the metal point into the spark plug boot. Have an assistant crank the engine as you use the shaft of the screwdriver to ground on the engine block.
Keep the shaft about 1/8" away from the grounding spot & look for a healthy spark as it jumps between the shaft and grounds' gap. (~40,000 volts here dude... it won't injure you, but it could give a nice tingle/poke if your body is leaning on the fender and your hand is on the shaft of the screwdriver)
If you see a good spark, the coil pack is energizing and plugs are firing. If no spark, something is shutting off the supply voltage to the coil pack.
Got all that?
Swez
UKinstaller on 01/31/2007 19:59:14
did you check if there are fuses under the hood?? i'm gonna go ahead and say i'm 100% sure this is a fuse problem, whether it be a fuse, fusible link, or loose fuel pump relay. check everything in the car 100x over, double check the fuel pump fuse(s) and / or fusible links under the hood, and check the fuel pump relay to make sure it's sitting pretty in it's location. definitely the fuel pump, not factory security.
-UK
Has anyone ever work on a 1995 Mitsubishi Montero? This is by far the most confusing factory head unit to take out... I even got the lame Scoshe installation manual, which doesn't explain anything (no wonder i've never used one before).
I'm not gonna bother explaining why it's so difficult, because if you've ever worked on one, I'm sure you know what I'm talking about. Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you,
-Ian-
Replies (17)
cplkittle on 01/27/2007 13:43:54
I think I might have done 1 of these in the last 3 years, and don't remember it at all. ttocs, uk?
cybersailor420 on 01/29/2007 23:37:53
So I finally got the factory head unit out, after drilling out a few screws...
The problem I'm having now is that the car won't start. I didn't use a wiring harness. After I had cut off the factory harness, the car still started. I traced all the wires and hooked up the new head unit, which works fine. I still had 3 wires left over from the factory harness, not exactly sure what they're for. I reinstalled everything, and now the car won't start.
I disassembled pretty much everything, including unplugging the new head unit, and didn't find any damaged wires or anything that seems to be out of place.
When trying to start the car, it turns over, but doesn't start. The strange thing that happens now is that the parking lights and the dash lights blink, and i hear a beeping noise. The car has a security light, but it doesn't have an alarm.
The only thing I can think of is that maybe it has an ignition kill switch or something... I found a magnetic shock sensor behind the glove box, so I have no idea what other stuff this vehicle might have come with.
ANY IDEAS?????
I'm going to try hooking up the old head unit in the morning, if i can't find anything else wrong. Hope one of you can help me with this!
-Ian-
cplkittle on 01/29/2007 23:40:05
did you disconnect the battery?
ttocs on 01/29/2007 23:41:01
its been a while since I saw one. have you checked the battery level? After having the door open for a long time you could have ran it down. Is there a voltage gauge on the dash?
cplkittle on 01/29/2007 23:55:57
Sounds like a fault in a immobilizer chip or something, but I'm not showing that that car would have one.
Does the security light blink when you turn the key foreward 2 clicks (don't try to start it)?
Since the engine is turning over, it's not a starter kill, that would cut power to the starter. Either the power to the coil packs is disabled or the fuel pump is disabled.
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 00:12:29
Thanx for the quick responses guys.
All fuses are good. The security light does not stop blinking regardless of what position the key is in.
The fuel pump was my first thought too. However, I did not see a fuse for it.
The battery is at about 12.5 volts, and goes down to about 10.8 while trying to start it. Seems like it should be fine to me, but I might throw some jumper cables on it in the morning just to see if it helps.
Any ideas on how to bypass this if it does have some kind of immobilizing circuit? Should I hook the old head unit up and see if that fixes it?
-Ian-
cplkittle on 01/30/2007 00:20:08
Put the key in the ignition and leave it on for 15 minutes ( do not try to crank ) after 15 minutes the security light should stop blinking and you will be able to start the vehicle.
For some reason your car seems to have a chip in the key (most that year don't) , and somehow your vehicle thought it was being stolen. This should work. If it don't let us know.
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 00:51:57
thanks so much for the help. I'm gonna try it first thing in the morning. I'll let you know what happens.
-Ian-
swez on 01/30/2007 06:52:43
If he leaves the key in IGN position for that long and does not shut off other devices, won't that drain the battery to a point that the starter will not turn over?
It seems like the stock HU may have a security feature that triggers the "OK to Start" circuits. Removing this HU may signal the "Do Not Start" feature???
I agree... it's probably either the fuel pump or the coil pack shutting off here. There must be a bypass feature here that one can employ to get this SUV to start.
Am wondering if this stock HU has a security code feature and when removed, the car will not start? Reinstalling the HU may not help w/o resetting the codes.
Man, I'm glad I don't do this kind of work for a living. LOL
Swez
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 09:39:46
Swez, I was thinking the same thing about the factory head unit. However, I was able to start the car several times since removing it and cutting the harness off. Either it just took a while to kick in, or its something else...
I'm gonna head over to the guys house in a litte bit and try it. I'll probably put the jumper cables on just to make sure I have enough battery power.
Any more ideas would be more than welcomed.
-Ian-
cplkittle on 01/30/2007 10:07:55
the key in the on position works with different vehicles, GM for sure. If an attempt to start is made (testing remote start) without the proper key bypass it will go into theft mode. To remove it from theft mode, you have to turn the key to the on position for 15 minutes (of course you turn off the air and anything that would drain the battery further). This anti theft mode is identifiable by the continuous flashing theft light when the key is in the on position.
I have never heard of the radio preventing the vehicle from starting though.
Anytime you work on a vehicle where the key is going to be in the ignition on occasion, it is wise to roll down at least one window to prevent the keys from being locked in.
swez on 01/30/2007 10:20:05
Keys locked in the car is a PITA... My Dad's vehicles have remote starters and if you leave the key in the ignition, the doors lock automatically. Whenever I do some fiddling here, I always crack a window now. So true, O man of great wisdom!
Swez
cplkittle on 01/30/2007 10:31:10
I even have a $80 break in kit, but I'd rather not lock them in to begin with. That's the only tool I don't like to use.
cybersailor420 on 01/30/2007 12:25:45
So I just talked to the owner of the car, and he said leaving the key on for 15 minutes and then trying to start it didn't work. I also just talked to crutchfield, and they said they don't see anything involving the head unit that would cause the car not to start. He also mentioned that it sounded like a problem with the fuel pump.
I'm going to look at the car myself. Let me know if anything else comes to mind...
Thanks again guys.
-Ian-
ttocs on 01/30/2007 12:41:12
but the starter isn't cranking, but is drawing voltage to drop the voltage at the battery? I would look at the starter, maybe give it a gently nudge with a hammer to see if the cold weather could have locked it up.
swez on 01/30/2007 13:42:22
He mentioned the starter does crank, but the engine will not fire up.
In most Fuel Injected systems, you will hear the fuel pump turn on as soon as the key is moved to the IGN/Start position. It will sound like a muffled mechanical chatter or buzzing sounds, near the gas tank. Most pumps are now mounted in or very close to fuel tank.
If you don't here that chatter/buzz sound, the fuel pump may not be triggering to provide adequate fuel pressure to start the engine.
It's also easy to test the coil pack too. Just pull one spark plug wire, grab a long handled, insulated handle screwdriver and insert the metal point into the spark plug boot. Have an assistant crank the engine as you use the shaft of the screwdriver to ground on the engine block.
Keep the shaft about 1/8" away from the grounding spot & look for a healthy spark as it jumps between the shaft and grounds' gap. (~40,000 volts here dude... it won't injure you, but it could give a nice tingle/poke if your body is leaning on the fender and your hand is on the shaft of the screwdriver)
If you see a good spark, the coil pack is energizing and plugs are firing. If no spark, something is shutting off the supply voltage to the coil pack.
Got all that?
Swez
UKinstaller on 01/31/2007 19:59:14
did you check if there are fuses under the hood?? i'm gonna go ahead and say i'm 100% sure this is a fuse problem, whether it be a fuse, fusible link, or loose fuel pump relay. check everything in the car 100x over, double check the fuel pump fuse(s) and / or fusible links under the hood, and check the fuel pump relay to make sure it's sitting pretty in it's location. definitely the fuel pump, not factory security.
-UK
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