Ok i have a JL 300/4 amp already installed in my 04 f-150. I want to add a Kicker ZX750.1 amp just for my sub and use the 300/4 for my components. I have a couple questions.
1) Is the ZX750.1 a good solid amp?
2) Would running both amps hurt my cars eletrical system
3) What all do i need to install the 2nd amp? (Power Distribution Block, Ground Distribution Block, 0 guage wire to run to the distribution block from the battery cause i can use the old 4 guage i have now for the distribution block to the amps, New fuse cause I only have a 40 now)
Replies (10)
cplkittle on 01/27/2007 13:38:55
The ZX750.1 is a really nice amp, and yes it is solid.
It is hard to tell what it will do to the electrical system until you get it all connected and try it out. I would recommend 0ga with the big3 upgrade as well.
I would recommend a distribution block 0ga input and at least 2 4ga outputs. You will need a fuse somewhere around 10% above the total fuse ratings of both amplifiers. A ground distribution is not really necessary as long as you have good spots to ground to near each amplifier.
swez on 01/27/2007 20:14:16
Also, use a fuse D-block here. The JL 300/4 does not have external fusing. This amp uses a 40A fuse per JL's manual:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7111.pdf
If your truck has a towing package on it, chances are very good you have a 140 amp Alternator. Worst case, the Big 3 wiring upgrade and a high CCA rated battery, (750 CC or higher) will get the job done.
Sounds like a very nice system coming together here Dac!
Swez
DaculabBall50 on 01/31/2007 08:46:25
I hate to do this to yall but i think i'm going to go with an alpine MRP-M650. I'm pretty sure the alpine amp uses internal amps but also requires a 40 amp external amp just like my 300/4.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6471.html
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M650
What kind of fuse do i need up near my battery?
I Also plan to run a 2 ga wire from my battery to my distrobution block then run 4ga from my distrobution block to each amp since the system will only be 700 watts 2ga to 4ga is prefect right?
I cannot find a 2ga to 4ga distrobution block anywhere on the internet. Does anyone know where i can find one?
Should i run 4ga wire from the grounds on both amps or 2ga wires.
Does anyone know where i can find decent 2ga wire on the internet?
About the big 3 upgrade. Would that need to be 2ga as well. How much would that cost relativily andd how much would a new battery be? And is it really nessicary? I dont have a bunch of extra cash as i'm only 16 but i dont wanna hurt my investment so if is a must i will get the big 3 and battery.
cplkittle on 01/31/2007 12:12:36
2 gauge is kinda of a rarity. If you aren't careful you will wind up with 4 gauge in really thick insulation being called 2 ga. On top of that, the distribution blocks and terminal ends are hard to find as well. 4ga will carry up to 150 amps ( 1800 watts). All my years in car audio I have seen 2 gauge wire one time. And it was like I just said. You can get some good deals on 4 ga (4 ga) if you look around. I would suggest a stinger kit in a sealed package. That way you know you are getting everything.
As far as a dist. block.. do a search on ebay for a stee4. That's stinger brand.. sorry, it's the only model number I know.
Your fuse should be somewhere around 10% above the sum of all fuses in all the amps.
swez on 01/31/2007 12:14:29
No problem, Alpine makes a fine set of amps too. (Often cheaper too)
As for wiring, look at Street Wires or Knokonceptz wiring and hardware. Both are well priced and of good quality.
As for wire gage, it's a bit more difficult to find #2 wiring kits. I have used Knukoncepts products many times and fine them very good in all cases. (Hardware, RCA cables, power and speaker wires) With the power draw on these amps, #4 would be sufficient and the main fuse at the BAT to be 80-100A's.
If you even remotely think you'll be upgrading to a larger sub amp, consider 1/0 wiring. Take a look at Konceptz options and see how you like the prices and selections. The KonFUSED line of hardware. This product gives the option of using #1/0 or #4 gage line sets.
http//:www.knuconceptz.com
Any questions, just ask,
Swez
PS As for a Battery upgrade, you may not need such with this present system if the present battery is in good shape and rated at 650 CCA or higher. If you note the battery is not up to par, more than 3-4 years old, then consider this as part of general maintenance of the vehicle and do so as needed.
A 750 CCA rated battery give plenty of reserve power. AutoZones Gold Duralast series seems to be a very good battery. I have bought 3 of them already for various cars and trucks and find them very good value. (~$80.00) Sure, you can shoot for an Optima Gel Cell at ~$140.00, but not really needed for a system of this power demand.
DaculabBall50 on 01/31/2007 21:40:12
I have one major question. I dont get where i am supposed to put the distrobution block. From what i have found i think i have to choices.
1). I can either have a distrobution block with no fuse and put it near the amps and run two short cables to the amps with one long wire comeing from the battery to the block. I would need a big fuse and fuse holder next to the battery if i chose this though right?
2).My other choice would be just have a distrobution block with fuses like this one (http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-12) and put it next to the battery and have two long wires going to the amps in the car. This would require more wire but what would be the best set-up or am i totally wrong?
Also about the grounds can i just run a 4ga wire from each amp to the same spot or do i need two spots?
DaculabBall50 on 01/31/2007 21:59:02
I also dicided to go with this KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4ga wire. I noticed it has 2058 strands in 4ga witch is more than any other 4ga wire i have seen and i dont think my two amps will pull more than 120 amps because the JL is 40 external and the Alpine is 30x2 internal.
How big of a fuse would i need for the alpine if i ran an external fuse too or is that to much?
Also how big would the fuse need to be if i used one fuse for both amps? It would need to be 110 amps right?
Thats awefully close to the rated 120 amps of the 4ga would i need to step up to the 1/0 gauge EXO Kable rated at 250 amps or is the 120 amp 4ga wire enough?
4ga- http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL4BL
1/0ga- http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=eKo-0BL
swez on 01/31/2007 22:24:18
Most guys often build an amp rack and install the amps and D-block under the passenger's side rear seat. It depends on the clearance you have and the height of the amps.
If you want to go stealth, remove the rear seat back and install amps and D-block on the rear wall of your truck w/ the heat sinks facing upwards. Also, fusing at the D-block is the same value recommended by each amp. (A 40 & 60A fuse set)
I would recommend a 100A main fuse at the battery and #4 all the way back to the amps & D-block. (This fuse protects your truck electrical system) You can easily ground your amps to one of the seatbelt harnesses or a location in the floor, well in the back.
I like working with #4 gage and it's easy to hide in the channels that are covered by plastic trim runners on the driver's side. There is a rubber grommet at the fire wall, on the driver's side, so that is your best bet for power line. You can also manage #1/0 there too. It's just thicker and harder to bend in cold weather.
Your signal cables, (RCA's and speaker lines to front speakers) will go in the passenger side runners. Usually enough room in that channel if you bundle wiring with tape or cable ties.
Did that cover everything you asked about?
Swez
cplkittle on 01/31/2007 22:42:32
If your amplifiers are fused at 40 and 60, theoretically 100 should be fine. We chose to go 10% above to prevent the main fuse from blowing should something go wrong. An amplifier will only blow a fuse if something goes wrong internally or if the battery voltage drops to 8 or 9 volts while the system is at high volume. Most amplifiers will go into protect long before a fuse will blow. Both amplifiers will not blow a fuse at the same time, and even if they both go at almost the same time, a split second difference should not produce over a 100a spike. If the fuse rating is 80 amps in this case, there is still only a small chance that the current will exceed that amount.
Remember, your amplifiers should not pull anywhere near fuse rating even during extended periods of time at high output. The reason we normally suggest 10% over is because ANL or MAXI fuses are rather expensive compared to the standard blade fuses that most amplifiers use. 4ga is good up to 150 amps, and you can use a 150 amp fuse if you want. The purpose of the main line fuse is to prevent meltdown should the wire ground out at any point. It is not meant to protect amplifiers. That is what fused distribution blocks and inline fuses are for on the amplifier side of the distribution block.
1/0ga wire would not be much help here. It does have a lower resistance over the 15-17 feet of wire you will run, and if you get really picky it might make the amps run a degree or two cooler, and give you up to .1 dB overall compared to 4ga. The 4ga is plenty sufficient though. I would only consider 1/0 if there is a possibility of upgrading or adding amplifiers later on.
swez on 01/31/2007 23:16:31
Ditto...
Swez
1) Is the ZX750.1 a good solid amp?
2) Would running both amps hurt my cars eletrical system
3) What all do i need to install the 2nd amp? (Power Distribution Block, Ground Distribution Block, 0 guage wire to run to the distribution block from the battery cause i can use the old 4 guage i have now for the distribution block to the amps, New fuse cause I only have a 40 now)
Replies (10)
cplkittle on 01/27/2007 13:38:55
The ZX750.1 is a really nice amp, and yes it is solid.
It is hard to tell what it will do to the electrical system until you get it all connected and try it out. I would recommend 0ga with the big3 upgrade as well.
I would recommend a distribution block 0ga input and at least 2 4ga outputs. You will need a fuse somewhere around 10% above the total fuse ratings of both amplifiers. A ground distribution is not really necessary as long as you have good spots to ground to near each amplifier.
swez on 01/27/2007 20:14:16
Also, use a fuse D-block here. The JL 300/4 does not have external fusing. This amp uses a 40A fuse per JL's manual:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/7111.pdf
If your truck has a towing package on it, chances are very good you have a 140 amp Alternator. Worst case, the Big 3 wiring upgrade and a high CCA rated battery, (750 CC or higher) will get the job done.
Sounds like a very nice system coming together here Dac!
Swez
DaculabBall50 on 01/31/2007 08:46:25
I hate to do this to yall but i think i'm going to go with an alpine MRP-M650. I'm pretty sure the alpine amp uses internal amps but also requires a 40 amp external amp just like my 300/4.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6471.html
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M650
What kind of fuse do i need up near my battery?
I Also plan to run a 2 ga wire from my battery to my distrobution block then run 4ga from my distrobution block to each amp since the system will only be 700 watts 2ga to 4ga is prefect right?
I cannot find a 2ga to 4ga distrobution block anywhere on the internet. Does anyone know where i can find one?
Should i run 4ga wire from the grounds on both amps or 2ga wires.
Does anyone know where i can find decent 2ga wire on the internet?
About the big 3 upgrade. Would that need to be 2ga as well. How much would that cost relativily andd how much would a new battery be? And is it really nessicary? I dont have a bunch of extra cash as i'm only 16 but i dont wanna hurt my investment so if is a must i will get the big 3 and battery.
cplkittle on 01/31/2007 12:12:36
2 gauge is kinda of a rarity. If you aren't careful you will wind up with 4 gauge in really thick insulation being called 2 ga. On top of that, the distribution blocks and terminal ends are hard to find as well. 4ga will carry up to 150 amps ( 1800 watts). All my years in car audio I have seen 2 gauge wire one time. And it was like I just said. You can get some good deals on 4 ga (4 ga) if you look around. I would suggest a stinger kit in a sealed package. That way you know you are getting everything.
As far as a dist. block.. do a search on ebay for a stee4. That's stinger brand.. sorry, it's the only model number I know.
Your fuse should be somewhere around 10% above the sum of all fuses in all the amps.
swez on 01/31/2007 12:14:29
No problem, Alpine makes a fine set of amps too. (Often cheaper too)
As for wiring, look at Street Wires or Knokonceptz wiring and hardware. Both are well priced and of good quality.
As for wire gage, it's a bit more difficult to find #2 wiring kits. I have used Knukoncepts products many times and fine them very good in all cases. (Hardware, RCA cables, power and speaker wires) With the power draw on these amps, #4 would be sufficient and the main fuse at the BAT to be 80-100A's.
If you even remotely think you'll be upgrading to a larger sub amp, consider 1/0 wiring. Take a look at Konceptz options and see how you like the prices and selections. The KonFUSED line of hardware. This product gives the option of using #1/0 or #4 gage line sets.
http//:www.knuconceptz.com
Any questions, just ask,
Swez
PS As for a Battery upgrade, you may not need such with this present system if the present battery is in good shape and rated at 650 CCA or higher. If you note the battery is not up to par, more than 3-4 years old, then consider this as part of general maintenance of the vehicle and do so as needed.
A 750 CCA rated battery give plenty of reserve power. AutoZones Gold Duralast series seems to be a very good battery. I have bought 3 of them already for various cars and trucks and find them very good value. (~$80.00) Sure, you can shoot for an Optima Gel Cell at ~$140.00, but not really needed for a system of this power demand.
DaculabBall50 on 01/31/2007 21:40:12
I have one major question. I dont get where i am supposed to put the distrobution block. From what i have found i think i have to choices.
1). I can either have a distrobution block with no fuse and put it near the amps and run two short cables to the amps with one long wire comeing from the battery to the block. I would need a big fuse and fuse holder next to the battery if i chose this though right?
2).My other choice would be just have a distrobution block with fuses like this one (http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KNF-12) and put it next to the battery and have two long wires going to the amps in the car. This would require more wire but what would be the best set-up or am i totally wrong?
Also about the grounds can i just run a 4ga wire from each amp to the same spot or do i need two spots?
DaculabBall50 on 01/31/2007 21:59:02
I also dicided to go with this KnuKonceptz Kolossus 4ga wire. I noticed it has 2058 strands in 4ga witch is more than any other 4ga wire i have seen and i dont think my two amps will pull more than 120 amps because the JL is 40 external and the Alpine is 30x2 internal.
How big of a fuse would i need for the alpine if i ran an external fuse too or is that to much?
Also how big would the fuse need to be if i used one fuse for both amps? It would need to be 110 amps right?
Thats awefully close to the rated 120 amps of the 4ga would i need to step up to the 1/0 gauge EXO Kable rated at 250 amps or is the 120 amp 4ga wire enough?
4ga- http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KOL4BL
1/0ga- http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=eKo-0BL
swez on 01/31/2007 22:24:18
Most guys often build an amp rack and install the amps and D-block under the passenger's side rear seat. It depends on the clearance you have and the height of the amps.
If you want to go stealth, remove the rear seat back and install amps and D-block on the rear wall of your truck w/ the heat sinks facing upwards. Also, fusing at the D-block is the same value recommended by each amp. (A 40 & 60A fuse set)
I would recommend a 100A main fuse at the battery and #4 all the way back to the amps & D-block. (This fuse protects your truck electrical system) You can easily ground your amps to one of the seatbelt harnesses or a location in the floor, well in the back.
I like working with #4 gage and it's easy to hide in the channels that are covered by plastic trim runners on the driver's side. There is a rubber grommet at the fire wall, on the driver's side, so that is your best bet for power line. You can also manage #1/0 there too. It's just thicker and harder to bend in cold weather.
Your signal cables, (RCA's and speaker lines to front speakers) will go in the passenger side runners. Usually enough room in that channel if you bundle wiring with tape or cable ties.
Did that cover everything you asked about?
Swez
cplkittle on 01/31/2007 22:42:32
If your amplifiers are fused at 40 and 60, theoretically 100 should be fine. We chose to go 10% above to prevent the main fuse from blowing should something go wrong. An amplifier will only blow a fuse if something goes wrong internally or if the battery voltage drops to 8 or 9 volts while the system is at high volume. Most amplifiers will go into protect long before a fuse will blow. Both amplifiers will not blow a fuse at the same time, and even if they both go at almost the same time, a split second difference should not produce over a 100a spike. If the fuse rating is 80 amps in this case, there is still only a small chance that the current will exceed that amount.
Remember, your amplifiers should not pull anywhere near fuse rating even during extended periods of time at high output. The reason we normally suggest 10% over is because ANL or MAXI fuses are rather expensive compared to the standard blade fuses that most amplifiers use. 4ga is good up to 150 amps, and you can use a 150 amp fuse if you want. The purpose of the main line fuse is to prevent meltdown should the wire ground out at any point. It is not meant to protect amplifiers. That is what fused distribution blocks and inline fuses are for on the amplifier side of the distribution block.
1/0ga wire would not be much help here. It does have a lower resistance over the 15-17 feet of wire you will run, and if you get really picky it might make the amps run a degree or two cooler, and give you up to .1 dB overall compared to 4ga. The 4ga is plenty sufficient though. I would only consider 1/0 if there is a possibility of upgrading or adding amplifiers later on.
swez on 01/31/2007 23:16:31
Ditto...
Swez
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