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Swez I thought about your ideas im not totally set on the diamond audio hex crossovers. Yy LOC has two different rca's outputs, one pair reads lf and rf, the other set reads rr and lr are you saying off the loc run a pair of rca's from rr and lr to insignia amp then from other set outputs of the loc run rca's to eclipse amp? Then from eclipse amp run 16 gauge wire to crossovers input terminals then from cossovers run 16 gauge to rear 4x6's what part of the crossover to i put these wires in? So does that mean i leave the stock deck running the front door speakers? What then do my tweaders run off of cause they are wired to crossovers and crossovers to stock wire. right now i have 1 pair rca's running to insignia amp with 2 sets of y's then 2nd set rca's pluging into the y and finally y into insignia amp . im so stupid when it comes to this and sad thing is iam an electrician Replies (38) cplkittle on 01/23/2007 11:07:43 The diamond crossover is passive (it is not an amplifier), and you need alot more power going to the HEX components than what the radio will put out. The rest of the system sounds like it is hooked up right, maybe a little tweaking on the amp and HU settings will get them up to par. Which part of your system are you not happy with. If it is just the front speakers, an amplifier to go with those crossovers should have you up and running. The capacitor should be wired up inline with the amplifier for example: positive wire from the battery to positive on the cap and positive from the cap to the positive input on the amp. Negative body ground to negative on the cap and negative from the cap to the negative input on the amp. swez on 01/23/2007 14:03:21 Need to break this down into separate elements and figure out what parts of the system are good and which are not up to snuff. Here's a few suggestions to get ya back on track. Staging is not optimal here. 1. Use the Eclipse amp to power your front speakers. (Diamond Hex and crossover) Set the amp High Pass Filter, (HPF) at ~80 Hz. You'll have to move the LOC to RF & LF speaker lines off the HU. OBSERVE POLARITY AS YOU WIRE THE CROSSOVER, AMP AND SPEAKERS TOGETHER. (Not shouting... emphasis only) 2. Run your 4x6 speaker off the rear channels of the HU only 3. What model Kicker sub is used here? 4. That Insignia amp used to power your sub, is it a 2 channel or other? 5. What are the fuse ratings on each of your amps? At this point, you'll want to get your front stage speakers and amping dialed in first. The rear 4x6's are fixed for power, off the HU. Once you get these dialed in and sounding good, we'll move to the sub system and help you blend things together. Finally, this takes patience, knowledge and a good game plan. There will be other considerations here as we go through the check list. Just hang in there. There's plenty of skilled assistance available at this site. Swez PS Welcome to CK and please note we are a "PG" rated site. Mind editing the colorful language? Thanks! cecilio87 on 01/23/2007 14:17:29 what he said huey420 on 01/23/2007 18:57:55 swez sorry about the language. i really appreciate the help. To answer your 1st ? would i need to run a 2nd set of rcas from the line output converter to the eclipse amp? then what do i run from eclipse amp to crossovers? 2nd ? what and how to run the rear 4x6s off hu? 3rd? the kicker sub is a comp. 4th? the insignia amp is two chanel amp. the fuse ratings for the eclipse amp is 1 twenty fuse, the insignia has two twenty fuses. swez on 01/23/2007 21:53:17 The number of RCA's here can be minimal. (2 long pairs) It depends on how many amp channels are used in the process. I'll walk you through a general plan and you can think it over: 1. LOC off front speakers line in HU.... converts to RCA lines that feed your front amp to front crossovers/speaker. If you are pretty well set on the Diamond Hex 3-ways up front, they really need a more robust amp to power them to full potential. (100 RMS x 2 @ 4 ohms will do nicely) If you can afford it, a good option for sure. 2. It looks like you would be well off with 2 LOC's. One for the front and the other for the rear channel amp. (Your Eclipse as is now, running the rear speakers) That means a 2nd pair of RCA's. 3. Your sub amp and sub are pretty well matched in power needs. If you have the 4 ohm Kicker Comp sub, bridging the Insignia amp for this sub is the best choice. Here, you should see 300 watts + to the sub. As for RCA signals to the Insignia amp, you can use "Y" patch cables off the Eclipse amp as now, or your front stage amp could be one that has a pair of preamp outs. This can be used to feed the sub amp. OK, chew on this a bit and come back with some comments. There are a few other ways to do this, but think about this plan for a bit. Then we can take it from there. Swez (That Eclipse amp is pretty small and well suited to the rear speakers) It might be a good idea to use it for your rear speakers only. Dutaylor33 on 01/26/2007 02:14:39 U can always just get a rca spliter you will lose control of eather the front or rear settings on your raido but this will work huey420 on 01/26/2007 21:38:31 i have my rca's running to the y spliter then plug y spliter into eclipse amp and the other run to the insignia amp but do i put them into the outputs or inputs swez on 01/26/2007 22:00:46 If one of your amps has RCA type preouts, "Y" splitters are not needed. However, if neither amp has RCA outs, we use "Y" splitters from the HU main RCA's, use a pair of "Y" splitters to feed the inputs on both amps. Do you have links to each amp mentioned? If yes, post them so I can get a better look at what you have going on here OK. If no links, then complete make and model #'s for each may do. I can look them up via google that way. 1. Eclipse amp model # is: ? 2. Insignia amp model # is: ? Best Buy Job? http://auctions.overstock.com/item/38600520 Tech Tip: It looks like this Insignia amp has a pair of RCA inputs and also a pair of RCA outputs to feed your Eclipse amp. Please confirm! Swez huey420 on 01/27/2007 08:13:06 I have the insignia IS-PCSS100 2 ch 360 watt amp the same one that u thought.The eclipse is 3620 2/1 ch power amp. Now i switched the loc from front speakers to rear speakers.So off the rca's outputs i have 1 pair running out of rr and fr to insignia amp inputs then from other set of outputs run rca's to eclipse amp or do i go from insignia outputs to eclipse amp? IM still wandering how to wire my tweaders that are running off my crossovers? am i totally confused or on right track or just lost i need help for a dummie or just explained like i was a 9 year old kid.I do really appreciate ur time and help i respect ur knowledge and am trying to follow your advice PLEASE HELP swez on 01/27/2007 17:43:31 Since your LOC is now running off the front HU speakers lines, that would be FR and FL. (As far as the HU fader is concerned) Looking back at your 1st posting, this LOC has 4 channels, not 2. Make sure you have a left front and a right front connection at the LOC. The Insignia looks like it has RCA in and output jacks. So, your main RCA cables from the HU, go to the input RCA's on the Insignia amp. A 2nd pair of shorter RCA's will be needed to connect the Eclipse input RCA's to the Insignia OUTPUT RCA's. Now, I am assuming you will use the Insignia amp for your sub and the Eclipse to power your front stage speaker? (Recommended) Here's how to wire your Eclipse to your crossover and front Comps: 1. Left channel output..... to crossover input (Observe polarity) 2. Crossover output..... Woofer + and - terminals outputs to Woofer (Observe polarity) This is your driver's side door speakers. 3. Tweeter outputs... same deal here Tweeter + and - outputs to tweeter on driver's side. 4. Repeat steps 1-3 for the passenger side door using Right channel of amp outputs Tech Tip: In some cases, it sounds better if we reverse the polarity off the crossover to only the tweeters. It depends on the crossover design and what soulds best to you. Set the HPF on your Eclipse amp to ~80 Hz. Set the LPF on your Insignia amp to ~80 Hz. The last step will be gain matching each amp for optimal output and clarity of sound. We'll cover that when you get to that point. Finally, for now, use the rear speaker lines off your HU to power your 4x6 door speakers. If they break up and sound lousy on lows, will need to install some Bass blocking capacitors on these. Can address that later as well. Swez huey420 on 01/29/2007 02:32:53 so from the eclips amp do i run 16 gauge wire from the front of the amp where the wire would go if u were hooking up the rear speakers?so to hook up rear speakers i need to run 16 gauge from speakers to the hu and conect them to the stock wire? swez on 01/29/2007 06:40:04 Quote: "So, from the eclips amp do i run 16 gauge wire from the front of the amp where the wire would go if u were hooking up the rear speakers?" Do What? Oh yeah, we are 9 year olds here huh? :-o (Dang, this is harder then I thought... going back 40 years + is harder then I expected) LOL Ehhhem... What kind of electrical work do you do? Must be a lot of O.J.T. hands on stuff? Yes, this is a bit different then general electrical wiring. This is more like component level Electronics Tech work that requires bench top level work. (Not much like wiring residential and commercial work here at all) 1. The Eclipse amp will now power your front Comps (See links below) 2. The HU amps will power the rear speakers Here's a few diagrams of how to wire amp, crossover, woofer and tweeter. It's JL/Polk speakers, but the wiring is the same. Look at page 3 for details and use A) Standard Input as guide. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/2502.pdf Polk: (Page 5, figure 5) (It does not get much easier than this) http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/107/107DB6500.PDF Quote: "So, to hook up rear speakers, I need to run 16 gauge from speakers to the HU and connect them to the stock wire?" There should be stock speaker wires already available inside the cavity where your rear speakers are located. They run up to the HU harness and just need to be connected to LR/RR speaker wires in your HU harness. Hope that helps, Swez SMILE PS If this seems to complicated for you, it might be best to pay a qualified Tech to do this part and be done with it. It's very different from general electrical work you may be familiar with. huey420 on 01/30/2007 04:04:34 swez would i get the same sound quality if i didnt want to run the crossovers? would this be a better way to hook up my system because i ran it like you told me to and im not happy with the hissing sound nor the sound quality, if i eliminated the crossovers will it depleet my sound quality? swez on 01/30/2007 06:18:40 Hue, You may have to open up your crossovers and adjust the tweeter attenuators in them. Many of the beter crossovers have selection switches or jumpers that allow one to change the tweeter output. Many have 2-3 positions... +3dB, Flat and -3dB. Consider the -3dB select here. That should help tone them down. You mentioned you had Diamond Hex crossovers right? What speakers are they connected to? (Diamonds or others?) If you remove the crossovers, the tweeters have no protection against low frequencies and they will fry w/o proper filtering. One would have to install some kind of passive filtering system to keep them, (Tweeters) from buring out. Also, if using metal dome tweeters, these tend to be a bit on the bright side and some guys need to use EQ filtering and the crossover attenuation circuits to tone them down. Try the crossover attenuation method for now. If that does not work out to your satisfaction, we can look at some other options. Comments, Swez huey420 on 02/1/2007 06:54:36 i think that i decided to change out the factory hu and go with the pioneer Deh-4800mp. Do you think this would be a good hu to use with my system? when i had my buddy hook up my loc he kinda messed up the factory wires, is there a way to use the factory wire without using the clip that hooks up to the hu? swez on 02/1/2007 07:39:57 Yes, I have worked with that HU model before and find it does a nice job, all the way around. Aftermarket harness adapters make conversion easy. However, if one has a hacked up factory harness, read this insight: http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t36 If you don't "FULLY UNDERSTAND" the details, seriously consider the job being done by a Pro Installer. Swez huey420 on 02/3/2007 00:44:19 last ? i do appreciate ur help .with this deck can i not use the crossovers? and do i need to run two different runs of rcas or just one to my insignia then from that amp to eclipse. Will this deck fit in my truck? If not could u recomend another deck that has these features and kinda around the same price range, or if u know of a better deck that would be better for the system iam setting up in my truck swez on 02/3/2007 08:12:15 After looking at Crutchfield's recommendations, the DEH-P4800MP will fit. Crutch recommends the Metra VT-GMRC-01 ($79.99) conversion kit. This kit allows proper integration between Factory HU and other electronic features with aftermarket HU's. Have a look at these pages before making any decisions OK? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JR1Xkh3AOlI/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=300&tab=essential_info&i=130dehp480#Tab http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JR1Xkh3AOlI/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=300&tab=detailed_info&i=130dehp480#Tab http://www.crutchfield.com/S-JR1Xkh3AOlI/cgi-bin/prodview.asp?i=120GMRC01 Unfortunately, this is one of those "GM gotcha" installs. It's not the best vehicle for a beginner to work on w/o skilled hands to supervise and oversee the key details. The other option is a Professional Installer to do the work for you. Am sure your can shop online for better prices on the HU and conversion kit here too. The P4800MP has some very nice features and is a good price too. However, with the addition of the Metra Conversion Kit, you're looking at ~$200.00 for this HU and the conversion kit. (Not bad) This HU allows you to use 2-3 pairs of RCA's for external amping. One pair, (Front channels) to your Eclipse amp. The non-fading sub outs are for your Insignia amp. Since you don't have a 4 channel amp for Mids/Highs now, the rear speakers can still be powered off this HU's internal amps. The next upgrade model you might consider here, the DEH-P6800MP. You'll still need the Metra kit here too. This package is more like $300.00 for the HU and Metra kit, but with a few extra features, it may be worth considering. Again, consider enlisting an experienced guide to oversee your install or have it done Professionally. Swez PS Hugh, I don't mind helping you or answering your questions. The thing I see here, is a notable knowledge gap on how things are done in the mobile audio world. It's not "Rocket Science", but w/o some solid fundamentals and some hands on experience in your corner, am concerned that mistakes will be made and recovery could be expensive. Do you have access to a buddy that has done a several complex installs well and knows the correct way to do them? One possible option would be to speak with a Pro Installer and see if he is willing to take the project as a "side job" for cash? That can cut install fees that a typical shop has to charge to cover their overhead. Without such hands available, you'll be on a steep learning curve. huey420 on 02/8/2007 00:11:54 i understand that its not rocket science i think i understand how it all works but the one thing i dont understand are the crossovers. I bought the pioneer DEH-P4800mp do i need to run the crossovers still with this deck from what i read i dont? finally last ? can i run my kicker 4x6's rear speakers off eclipse amp instead of factory front speakers? swez on 02/8/2007 06:22:21 Crossovers are used to split up the audio power and frequency bands to the proper speakers. If we tried to send full range signals to a tweeter w/o a crossover filtering out the lows, a tweeter will be toast in a matter of seconds, depending on the power level they get. Quote: "Can i run my kicker 4x6's rear speakers off eclipse amp instead of factory front speakers?" Yes, you can indeed do that if you wish. Here, will need to adjust the HPF, (High Pass Filter) on the amp to about 200-300 Hz. The 4x6 speakers cannot handle too much low bass and still sound crisp and clean. The P4800MP does have limited crossover features in its menu system. Here's a quote from Crutchfield on the HP filter range: Quote: "High Pass Filter: If you do not want low frequency sounds to play from the front or rear speaker outputs, you can turn on the 12dB/octave High Pass Filter. The HPF has a selectable cutoff frequency (50, 63, 80, 100, or 125 Hz). Only frequencies higher than those in the selected range are output through the speakers." The filter range is not high enough for your 4x6" speakers. Let the Eclipse amp handle that or add passive filtering if needed. It can be useful on front speakers though. We typically cross front stage speakers between 60-100 Hz., depending on the woofers used up front. (Power handling and woofer size determine what HP filter settings to use.... Ie: 5.25", 6.5" or other) The subwoofer(s) handle the deep lows in the system. The LPF on the sub amp, is set to match the HPF settings for the front stage speakers. Tell me more about your front speakers and such. Are they stock factory speakers or have you installed Aftermarket upgrades there too? Say more on that, so we can guide you along the best pathway. Swez huey420 on 02/8/2007 19:18:56 My front speakers are indeed the factory ones that come with the truck.they are still hooked up the same as the day i bought the truck. I wanted to run the rear speakers and my tweaters and crossovers (i guess) off my eclipse amp, those rear speakers also have speaker savers part # IEC CAP199 non-polar 10% capacitor at 200hz@4ohm/100hz@8ohms on them and also i thought the amp would be to much for the factory speakers up front. swez on 02/8/2007 20:13:52 Probably right on the front speakers. Most are rated at 15-20 watts RMS and just sound kind of muddy too. The Eclipse amp is good for your 4x6 speakers with the filter Cap mentioned. However, my guess is you have only fair performance from the front speakers now? (Off the HU amps) Have you ever taken the front panels off and look at how cheaply made the stock speaker really are? They are really lame! That's why most guys opt for Components in front, amped to 50+ watts RMS or more per side. Is that something you would consider at some point? It would really bring up the mids/highs in your front stage too. Swez Blue_Oval on 02/11/2007 23:08:04 If you're serious about sound you must have crossovers. Since low frequencies are being sent to your tweeters there will be distortion. As a result of this distortion your tweeters will be destroyed. Loud bass will eventually destroy your mid-range speakers as well = New speakers time. swez on 02/11/2007 23:49:07 Need I say more... this guy Blue Oval knows the advantages a stock VS quality aftermarket products. We did his F-150 truck a while back and to say the least, this truck rocks!!! The F-150 is a different animal VS the Silverado. It comes stock with 6x8" ovals in front and rear. This gives much better midbass in the rear stage over a 4x6 speaker anyday. One can use ovals or rounds as adapters are easily made/bought for round cone conversions. Blue's truck is my personal benchmark for a top drawer SQL system. We planned it all out for almost 6 months and used some of the finest gear on the market. But even at that, the careful attention to install details and selecting great electronics, made all the difference. Yes, we took our time and planned every move ahead of time. His research skills, good shopping and our install techniques made this not only a great sounding system, but also very stealthy. If you did not know where to look, you'd have no idea where the amps and crossovers are located. Yep, a quality install all the way... and the results are to say the least... stunning! Swez cplkittle on 02/11/2007 23:55:13 Ya'll got any pictures? swez on 02/12/2007 01:00:02 I defer to Blue here... we did not take pics during the install for some reason. (Focused on the install results, not pics) I don't have a digital camera yet, but I know some of the research he did prior, helped us a great deal, to get a "very stealthy" install. Blue... got some of those pics saved from your research? I deleted mine a while ago... (sheepish grin) Since you have a new computer, my guess is... not likely??? Swez PS G'night all, it's 1:00 AM and this pup is pooped. A very good day in all... just time to call it quits. huey420 on 02/12/2007 02:54:19 swez All The info has really helped me out i do appreciate it so much. do you have any sugestions on front speakers to get, cause i would like to replace them. On those crossovers i got they have RAF + - Besides tweaters+ - , input + -, woofer + -, what does the RAF stand for swez on 02/12/2007 06:54:36 RAF??? Oh, these are Hex x3 crossovers and RAF is the optional output for rear fill speakers. Here's the manual for your Hex Crossovers: http://www.diamondaudio.com/PDF/current/HEX/HEXManual.pdf You do not need the Midbass add on module to make this kit sound good. It's just a band pass filter that feeds the midbass frequencies between ~60 - 250 Hz. It's a great crossover for Hex speakers and would probably work with other brands too. (Just not optimized for other than Hex speakers as the tweeters are 8 ohm units, woofers/Mids are 4 ohm as is rear fill) To get the most from this crossover, you'll need speakers that match the crossover features and amping power according to the speakers used. The crossovers are rated for 150 watts Continous power input. That Eclipse amp is a tad too small for getting the most from this system, but in the short term, it will work. You can even use the RAF circuit to feed the 4x6" rear speakers with your Bass blocking filters. You won't have fader control this way, but it will work. A 2nd Insignia amp would do a good job powering your front Comps and RAF add on. It is rated at 120 watts x 2 RMS @ 4 ohms. I can see a good way to keep your stock HU, run a pair of LOC's for your amps. (Front Comps/RAF & Rear for sub) You can even add a an EQ circuit here for better control and spend less then buying an Aftermarket HU and the converter kit to keep chimes and such too. The only question left is obtaining usable speakers for your front Comps. Am sure we can find a good setup at Parts Express and use your Hex crossovers too. BTW Hugh, where do you live anyway? (Nearest large city/state) I ask as there are several guys on this forum that do installs for a living and may be willing to help you pull things together and get some very nice results too. (Our fees are reasonable to CK members) Swez huey420 on 02/12/2007 19:19:04 Swez I Got it hooked up and working finally! It runs like this, rca's to input of insignia amp with 2nd rca set from outout to eclipse input, then from eclips output speaker wire to hex crossover input, then tweaters and finally rear 4x6;s on one hex then from the other hex crossover the same way. From insignia amp bridged to single kicker sub. It sounds good but still not a lot of bass but a lot of treeble. I live in a town called MODESTO, CALIFORNIA its the central valley. We have up north about an hour away Sacramento, to the south there is Fresno, to the west is San Fransisco ,Oakland . Basically the real big cities and towns are about an hour away. I wish this was easy like wiring a house but it takes a little time and the rite tools . You have been a huge help and i want to thank you. By the way your knowledge is very good swez on 02/12/2007 20:58:34 When you mention not a lot of bass... is that as in subwoofer output? You may need to adjust your amp gain on the Insignia amp to bring up the subs. Set the LPF on same, to between 80-100 Hz. On your Eclipse amp, set the HPF to ~80 Hz. The Hex crossovers will do the rest. You may find a need to replace the front stock speakers and perhaps a larger amp for your front speakers. Once you get the sub working and up to snuff, the subwoofer should be pretty strong in that truck. You'll want the mids and highs to keep up and not get harsh due to excess clipping. You are most welcome for the tech support. Am glad you now have a result of some sort to report as favorable. HAPPY Feel free to make a donation to CK as this is how the site is funded and keeps things going. BTW...What type of electrical work do you do? (Residential, commercial, panel box wiring or other?) Car audio is a blend of AC & DC power and signal wiring. It's not something that even a skilled Journeyman electrican will get, right off the bat. I have been into this for over 8 years and since things change rapidly in this technology, we are always on a learning curve w/ newer products. The techniques are pretty fundamental, but every brand has its own needs and so does each vehicle have their own quirks. So in a way, a good installer often needs a few years OJT to really do skilled work. Good luck, Swez huey420 on 02/13/2007 01:10:08 I do Residential, service calls, pretty much everything but havent had much on commercial. What websites can i get manuals 4 both my amps? Man my tweaters and rear 4x6's are blearing, they sound great with bass from the sub in background. I really want to upgrade my front speakers but dont have lot of extra cash and i probably want a bigger amp like ur saying. 8 years is a long time but you know ur stuff! this might be a stupid ? but how do you make a donation swez on 02/13/2007 12:51:40 Better speakers up front may tone down the highs better. If the rear speakers are overpowering for now, either live with this until you can buy good Comps up front or attenuate the rear speakers using load resistors. I can give you some details on that, if you wish to take that step. I could not find manuals for either of your amps off google. To make a donation, there is a little white box below the "Make Reply" box, below the reply section. Walt does paypal, but if you wish to send cash or a personal check arrangements can be made for that too. Swez huey420 on 02/25/2007 22:26:10 swez hows it going? well my system all works thanks to your help. But now when i take off there is a wierd noise threw my speakers gets louder as a punch the gas? then sometimes it seems that my bass gets softer then it regains its self what could be the reason swez on 02/25/2007 23:17:27 Engine whine, hiss, spark ticks and other oddball noises are often related to improper grounding between HU and amps. The HU needs to be grounded to bare metal as do the amps used. Another problem area that is common, amp gain settings can also amplify electrical noise. It's usually blocked by the sub amp filters, but most notable in mid/highs. Since you have installed an Aftermarket HU... You will not need the LOC's. Just using the RCA outputs in this HU will definitely help. Just make sure you don't use the factory ground wire for this HU. It needs a separate ground to bare metal in the dash or floor board. Some have reported noise problems with their Pioneer HU's. Here, a dedicated grounding wire should help. Many run a small gage wire from the HU chassis, (HU RCA grounding claw) and back to the amps as well. It can be done by just stringing the wire over the seats from HU to amp as a temporary test. If the noise goes away, this is the correct fix and you can now hide that AUX ground as needed. Swez huey420 on 03/6/2007 20:36:56 i want to take my head unit out and replace it with the deh-p4800mp the one i bought. i looked into that special wire harness u told me about, do i really need that? and also the wire harness that came with new deck looks like i have to hard wire it does that mean i cut that connector off stock wire harness a connect them that way swez on 03/7/2007 03:33:42 The OEM/Aftermarket conversion harness makes wiring easier and neater too. No need to cut the OEM harness off and not recommended either. I believe your vehicle has a a few features tied into the OEM HU that keep your door chimes and a few other circuits working properly. That means a special harness adapter too. You may wish to consult a Pro installer on the details to see if you can understand the correct method for installation or just pay the guy a few extra bucks to do it for you on his free time. Swez cplkittle on 03/7/2007 03:48:24 do you have the Bose system? Do you have / use onstar? If the answers are no and no, you can get a $15 harness and connect the radio. If you have one or the other or both it may cost as much as $100 for the parts to properly install an aftermarket radio. huey420 on 03/7/2007 16:47:22 cplkittle No i dont have the bose system or on star is there any other wire harness that i can get besides the one from metra or pretty much i need that special one cause of everything thats tied into the stock stereo Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved |