Hey guys,
Its been awhile since I've posted here. Been working lots and getting my own place, new car etc...finally growing up I guess haha. It looks like things are still going well here.
Anyways, the reason I'm here is to ask if anybody here has done any installations on the new '07 VW Rabbits. I just bought a new one this past Friday and I already miss my old stereo lol (I did take it all out of the old car). The only thing is that this car has a 3pc component set in the front stock from the factory (6.5", 4" and tweeter). Can you guys recommend any brands that carry a decent 3way comp. set?
Also, I don't want to remove my factory cd player as it matches the interior color and is also a 6disc indash MP3 player...thats a lot of music. Has anybody had any decent results using a line out converter or the high level inputs to their amps?
Current Equipment:
Alpine CDA-9813 (don't want to use it but still want the SQ lol)
JL e4300 for my components
JL e1400D for the 12" Alpine Type R sub
Lastly, I am also looking for ideas on where to install my amps. I don't really want to mount them to the back of my seats as I need to use the hatch from time to time.
I know this is a long post and I apologize I'm just trying to get some ideas here and I know people around here have some very creative minds.
Thanks and talk to you later,
Jay
Replies (13)
cplkittle on 01/22/2007 22:58:13
Welcome back.
I haven't worked on many VWs to be honest with you, but as far as components go:
DYNAUDIO model DYN362 8", 3", 1.1"
DYNAUDIO model DYN342 7", 3", 1.1" ($800-$1000)
Dynaudio also makes the factory speakers for the Passat.
A/D/S model 641is 6", 4", 1" ($600-$800)
Hertz Mille model MLK3 6.5", tweeter, and ribbon speaker. Not much info on these, only a few places that sell them ($2000 +)
Focal model 165V3E 6.5", 4", 1" can find on E-bay just under $500 shipped.
MB Quart model PXD 316 6.5", 4", 1" (~$250)
Audiobahn model ABC6003V 6.5", 4", 1" (~$140)
JL model XR653-CS 6.5", 4", 1" current bid on ebay for demo set $107.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XR653-CS-USED-3-WAY-COMPONENTS_W0QQitemZ150082333714QQihZ005QQcategoryZ32819QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
CDT model CL-642 6.5", 4", 1" (~$450)
DLS model IRIDIUM 8.3 8", 3", 1.1" ($800-$1000)
DLS model IRIDIUM 6.3 6.5", 3", 1.1" ($600-$700)
hope that gets you started.
I would go with the CDT, Focal or JL
swez on 01/23/2007 14:27:36
The JL e4300 is a pretty modest amp. It's rated at 45 watts RMS/ch x 4 @ 4 Ohms and 90 watts RMS x 2 when bridged to a 2 channel configuration. This would be a nice amp to power your from Comps. (Ratings are at 12.5 volts DC and more power is available if your electrical system can hold a steady 13.5 - 14.x volts)
Infinity and JBL make some very nice 2 ohm Comps and coaxials and you can get the most from the e-4300 by running it as a 4 channel, but 2 ohms per channel. (75 watts RMS x 4 @ 2 ohms) That's a good game plan if you want all 4 channels amped.
If you wish to go with 3-way Comps up front, CDT's HD series is a sweet system and will not break the bank like some of the other mentioned brands. Here, bridging your e-4300 makes a lot of sense as these are 4 ohm systems.
As for the e-1400D, it delivers >400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. It will accept LOC/RCA lines or can be patched off your e-4300 RCA outs.
A good LOC is in order here. Depending on your wishes for the rear channel speakers, (amped or not) a 2 or 4 channel version can be employed.
OK, will stop for now and get some feedback from you on what you wish to do next. Do you know if this system has factory amps in there now?
Swez
Ash on 01/23/2007 18:15:44
Haven't done any work in those vehicles, but I can't imagine them throwing in a sorry 3-way comp. That's a lot of work for nothing! Do you think it is possible that they may just need amping and a simple addition of some subs?
Tell me what is it that you don't like and expect from the comps. Your tastes might help point the way to something to suit you. Plus what about keeping with the integrity of the car? Being that new, upgrades will have to be carefully plotted out to keep mods down to a minimum.
I've been doing some work with my own 3-way and I must say it is very interesting though somewhat of a task in getting it right. Just as it allows for more flexibility, mistakes in adjusting are as well.
LC1 on 01/27/2007 16:57:41
Hey sorry for the long response time. Thanks for the info. I found a good deal on a set of CDT HD-642 3-way comp set. Swez you mentioned these in your last post and I was wondering what sort of "sound" these guys put out (bright highs, warm mid bass etc etc). I am looking for crisp mids and soft-ish highs.
The thing I don't like about the factory speakers is the bass sounds extremely muddled. However, the 4" and tweets sounds pretty good. I will be including my 12" Apline Type R with my JL e1400D. I will also be bridging my e4300 2ch 4ohms to provide enough power up front.
Lastly, for now I will be using the factory head unit. What would be the best way to hook everything up? I was thinking of using the high level inputs for my 4ch amp then use rca's from the 4ch to the mono amp. The only thing else I would need is a 12v REM wire.
Thanks,
Jay
swez on 01/27/2007 19:24:48
The CDT's are very nice speakers and those who have used the HD series have been very happy with them. The woofers tend to be a little power hungry, to get the best low end from them. (80 RMS or higher)
These come with either Silk or Metal dome tweeters too. Depending on your preference, the silks tend to be more natural and not so bright as compared to the Ti Metal dome versions.
The crossovers are excellent and you have 3 stage attenuation on the tweeter circuit. (+3dB, Flat and -3dB) So, plenty of range to play with as needed for the highs.
As for connecting your amps, I would suggest using a Line Out Converter, (LOC) on the front speaker lines at the HU, rather then high signal inputs. The LOC converts speaker levels from the HU to RCA line levels and uses RCA's as well. The better ones have built in attenuators for fine tuning and adjustment.
I believe the JL amps both have pass through RCA's. This allows you to use 2 amps, but requires only one set of RCA's from the HU to your e-4300, then line outs from this amp, to feed your e-1400D. It does not get much easier than that.
Got all that?
Swez
PS You'll need to run a #18 gage REM line to the amps as well. Here, it would be best to tap off the ACC/IGN power line in your Stock HU. Fuse this line at 1A.
LC1 on 01/28/2007 09:22:12
Just out of curiosity, what is the benefit of using the LOC vs high signal inputs?
swez on 01/28/2007 11:08:42
It's my understanding that LOC's not only attenuate speaker voltage to desired RCA reference input voltage levels, but they also give better impedance matching in the entire audio spectrum. (Better highs and lows)
High signal amp inputs also attenuate speaker level voltages, but since speaker wires have higher inductive and capacitive reactance values over a given distance, we can lose some of the lows and highs and this degrades overall sound performance from the amps.
You can indeed try high signal inputs to your amps and see if the results are to your satisfaction. However, many audiophiles prefer the use of RCA level signals to amps for the best SQ results. (Ie: Pure bass tones, crisp mids and smooth highs)
Swez
LC1 on 02/3/2007 23:29:24
Just a quick question in regards to using LOC's. Will I need two of them if I want to run the front and rear outputs on my amp? Most LOC's I've been finding only have one set of RCA outputs. Also is there a way of determining the preout voltage of LOC or does it not play as much of a factory as preout voltage does on an aftermarket head unit?
Thanks,
Jay
cplkittle on 02/4/2007 00:16:50
You will find a variety of LOCs. 2 channel, 4 channel, and adjustable (variable).
I would recommend an adjustable one, and as far as 2 or 4 channel, you will need 4 channels (FL, FR, RL RR). I would shop around.. there will be some 4 channel adjustable that are more expensive than 2 2channel LOCs.. a little comparison shopping is in order here as far as price is concerned.
swez on 02/4/2007 12:11:54
Ditto on Kit's suggestion. The 4 channel LOC's can be a bit easier to install, but weigh the cost too. If you can find a pair of good 2 channel LOC's that are notably cheaper to buy that a 4 channel version, consider that route, if you have the space in the dash area to hide them.
Swez
LC1 on 02/4/2007 17:01:33
Thanks for the help guys! I just picked up my set of CDT HD642's today and I can't wait to get them installed. I just have to find a 4ch LOC and a warm garage to install these in, actually to install everything. Its -18deg celceius, -28celceius with the windchill!
Here is what is going in:
Factory 6dics MP3 Head Unit
JL e4300 (Bridged to a 2ch for the front stage)
JL e1400D
CDT HD642 (6.5", 4" & 1")
Factory 6.5" comps for rear fill
12" Alpine Type R
I can't wait to hear how its going to sound.
Jay
jamesp on 02/4/2007 17:27:38
I recently used this Scoshe 4 way LOC (link below) with my factory head unit it was 20 bucks at Crutchfield, I even saw one at Wal Mart the other day
When you wire it, be sure to set the switch correctly for your application. Good luck. I just put in one of those 12'" Alpine type R subs and It sounds great.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Kp9ptgb4tII/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=721&tab=morephotos&pi=2&i=142SLC4&display=XL#Tab
cplkittle on 02/5/2007 01:21:30
That looks like a pretty good unit. It is completely passive (does not use power to amplify or filter) so there is a minimal chance for the introduction of noise into the line. It looks pretty universal, so I would read the instructions well to make sure it is set up correctly as James recommended. Not a bad price either. I used to sell one made by peripherial that retailed at $48 the SVEN-4 if you want to look it up. I don't think there would be any difference in quality though.
Its been awhile since I've posted here. Been working lots and getting my own place, new car etc...finally growing up I guess haha. It looks like things are still going well here.
Anyways, the reason I'm here is to ask if anybody here has done any installations on the new '07 VW Rabbits. I just bought a new one this past Friday and I already miss my old stereo lol (I did take it all out of the old car). The only thing is that this car has a 3pc component set in the front stock from the factory (6.5", 4" and tweeter). Can you guys recommend any brands that carry a decent 3way comp. set?
Also, I don't want to remove my factory cd player as it matches the interior color and is also a 6disc indash MP3 player...thats a lot of music. Has anybody had any decent results using a line out converter or the high level inputs to their amps?
Current Equipment:
Alpine CDA-9813 (don't want to use it but still want the SQ lol)
JL e4300 for my components
JL e1400D for the 12" Alpine Type R sub
Lastly, I am also looking for ideas on where to install my amps. I don't really want to mount them to the back of my seats as I need to use the hatch from time to time.
I know this is a long post and I apologize I'm just trying to get some ideas here and I know people around here have some very creative minds.
Thanks and talk to you later,
Jay
Replies (13)
cplkittle on 01/22/2007 22:58:13
Welcome back.
I haven't worked on many VWs to be honest with you, but as far as components go:
DYNAUDIO model DYN362 8", 3", 1.1"
DYNAUDIO model DYN342 7", 3", 1.1" ($800-$1000)
Dynaudio also makes the factory speakers for the Passat.
A/D/S model 641is 6", 4", 1" ($600-$800)
Hertz Mille model MLK3 6.5", tweeter, and ribbon speaker. Not much info on these, only a few places that sell them ($2000 +)
Focal model 165V3E 6.5", 4", 1" can find on E-bay just under $500 shipped.
MB Quart model PXD 316 6.5", 4", 1" (~$250)
Audiobahn model ABC6003V 6.5", 4", 1" (~$140)
JL model XR653-CS 6.5", 4", 1" current bid on ebay for demo set $107.50
http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-XR653-CS-USED-3-WAY-COMPONENTS_W0QQitemZ150082333714QQihZ005QQcategoryZ32819QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
CDT model CL-642 6.5", 4", 1" (~$450)
DLS model IRIDIUM 8.3 8", 3", 1.1" ($800-$1000)
DLS model IRIDIUM 6.3 6.5", 3", 1.1" ($600-$700)
hope that gets you started.
I would go with the CDT, Focal or JL
swez on 01/23/2007 14:27:36
The JL e4300 is a pretty modest amp. It's rated at 45 watts RMS/ch x 4 @ 4 Ohms and 90 watts RMS x 2 when bridged to a 2 channel configuration. This would be a nice amp to power your from Comps. (Ratings are at 12.5 volts DC and more power is available if your electrical system can hold a steady 13.5 - 14.x volts)
Infinity and JBL make some very nice 2 ohm Comps and coaxials and you can get the most from the e-4300 by running it as a 4 channel, but 2 ohms per channel. (75 watts RMS x 4 @ 2 ohms) That's a good game plan if you want all 4 channels amped.
If you wish to go with 3-way Comps up front, CDT's HD series is a sweet system and will not break the bank like some of the other mentioned brands. Here, bridging your e-4300 makes a lot of sense as these are 4 ohm systems.
As for the e-1400D, it delivers >400 watts RMS @ 2 ohms. It will accept LOC/RCA lines or can be patched off your e-4300 RCA outs.
A good LOC is in order here. Depending on your wishes for the rear channel speakers, (amped or not) a 2 or 4 channel version can be employed.
OK, will stop for now and get some feedback from you on what you wish to do next. Do you know if this system has factory amps in there now?
Swez
Ash on 01/23/2007 18:15:44
Haven't done any work in those vehicles, but I can't imagine them throwing in a sorry 3-way comp. That's a lot of work for nothing! Do you think it is possible that they may just need amping and a simple addition of some subs?
Tell me what is it that you don't like and expect from the comps. Your tastes might help point the way to something to suit you. Plus what about keeping with the integrity of the car? Being that new, upgrades will have to be carefully plotted out to keep mods down to a minimum.
I've been doing some work with my own 3-way and I must say it is very interesting though somewhat of a task in getting it right. Just as it allows for more flexibility, mistakes in adjusting are as well.
LC1 on 01/27/2007 16:57:41
Hey sorry for the long response time. Thanks for the info. I found a good deal on a set of CDT HD-642 3-way comp set. Swez you mentioned these in your last post and I was wondering what sort of "sound" these guys put out (bright highs, warm mid bass etc etc). I am looking for crisp mids and soft-ish highs.
The thing I don't like about the factory speakers is the bass sounds extremely muddled. However, the 4" and tweets sounds pretty good. I will be including my 12" Apline Type R with my JL e1400D. I will also be bridging my e4300 2ch 4ohms to provide enough power up front.
Lastly, for now I will be using the factory head unit. What would be the best way to hook everything up? I was thinking of using the high level inputs for my 4ch amp then use rca's from the 4ch to the mono amp. The only thing else I would need is a 12v REM wire.
Thanks,
Jay
swez on 01/27/2007 19:24:48
The CDT's are very nice speakers and those who have used the HD series have been very happy with them. The woofers tend to be a little power hungry, to get the best low end from them. (80 RMS or higher)
These come with either Silk or Metal dome tweeters too. Depending on your preference, the silks tend to be more natural and not so bright as compared to the Ti Metal dome versions.
The crossovers are excellent and you have 3 stage attenuation on the tweeter circuit. (+3dB, Flat and -3dB) So, plenty of range to play with as needed for the highs.
As for connecting your amps, I would suggest using a Line Out Converter, (LOC) on the front speaker lines at the HU, rather then high signal inputs. The LOC converts speaker levels from the HU to RCA line levels and uses RCA's as well. The better ones have built in attenuators for fine tuning and adjustment.
I believe the JL amps both have pass through RCA's. This allows you to use 2 amps, but requires only one set of RCA's from the HU to your e-4300, then line outs from this amp, to feed your e-1400D. It does not get much easier than that.
Got all that?
Swez
PS You'll need to run a #18 gage REM line to the amps as well. Here, it would be best to tap off the ACC/IGN power line in your Stock HU. Fuse this line at 1A.
LC1 on 01/28/2007 09:22:12
Just out of curiosity, what is the benefit of using the LOC vs high signal inputs?
swez on 01/28/2007 11:08:42
It's my understanding that LOC's not only attenuate speaker voltage to desired RCA reference input voltage levels, but they also give better impedance matching in the entire audio spectrum. (Better highs and lows)
High signal amp inputs also attenuate speaker level voltages, but since speaker wires have higher inductive and capacitive reactance values over a given distance, we can lose some of the lows and highs and this degrades overall sound performance from the amps.
You can indeed try high signal inputs to your amps and see if the results are to your satisfaction. However, many audiophiles prefer the use of RCA level signals to amps for the best SQ results. (Ie: Pure bass tones, crisp mids and smooth highs)
Swez
LC1 on 02/3/2007 23:29:24
Just a quick question in regards to using LOC's. Will I need two of them if I want to run the front and rear outputs on my amp? Most LOC's I've been finding only have one set of RCA outputs. Also is there a way of determining the preout voltage of LOC or does it not play as much of a factory as preout voltage does on an aftermarket head unit?
Thanks,
Jay
cplkittle on 02/4/2007 00:16:50
You will find a variety of LOCs. 2 channel, 4 channel, and adjustable (variable).
I would recommend an adjustable one, and as far as 2 or 4 channel, you will need 4 channels (FL, FR, RL RR). I would shop around.. there will be some 4 channel adjustable that are more expensive than 2 2channel LOCs.. a little comparison shopping is in order here as far as price is concerned.
swez on 02/4/2007 12:11:54
Ditto on Kit's suggestion. The 4 channel LOC's can be a bit easier to install, but weigh the cost too. If you can find a pair of good 2 channel LOC's that are notably cheaper to buy that a 4 channel version, consider that route, if you have the space in the dash area to hide them.
Swez
LC1 on 02/4/2007 17:01:33
Thanks for the help guys! I just picked up my set of CDT HD642's today and I can't wait to get them installed. I just have to find a 4ch LOC and a warm garage to install these in, actually to install everything. Its -18deg celceius, -28celceius with the windchill!
Here is what is going in:
Factory 6dics MP3 Head Unit
JL e4300 (Bridged to a 2ch for the front stage)
JL e1400D
CDT HD642 (6.5", 4" & 1")
Factory 6.5" comps for rear fill
12" Alpine Type R
I can't wait to hear how its going to sound.
Jay
jamesp on 02/4/2007 17:27:38
I recently used this Scoshe 4 way LOC (link below) with my factory head unit it was 20 bucks at Crutchfield, I even saw one at Wal Mart the other day
When you wire it, be sure to set the switch correctly for your application. Good luck. I just put in one of those 12'" Alpine type R subs and It sounds great.
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Kp9ptgb4tII/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=721&tab=morephotos&pi=2&i=142SLC4&display=XL#Tab
cplkittle on 02/5/2007 01:21:30
That looks like a pretty good unit. It is completely passive (does not use power to amplify or filter) so there is a minimal chance for the introduction of noise into the line. It looks pretty universal, so I would read the instructions well to make sure it is set up correctly as James recommended. Not a bad price either. I used to sell one made by peripherial that retailed at $48 the SVEN-4 if you want to look it up. I don't think there would be any difference in quality though.
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
