Hey guys, have a truck we are planning to off, (2006 Ford F-350 Turbo Diesel) and am considering removing the alarm system and remote starter package in same and reinstall to a 2000 Lincoln Towncar.
I don't know the brand names of either kits at the moment, but have some apprehensions on doing this on my own. Basically, am I planning to bite off more than I can chew here?
Whatcha think? Yes, I have meters and a solid background in electrical circuits. Both vehicles have remote locking kits already. The Lincoln has a factory alarm system of some sort, but am sure it's very inferior to the one I am contemplating here.
Comments or thoughts?
Swez
Replies (4)
cplkittle on 01/7/2007 19:21:14
Removing an alarm/remote start is not that difficult. Finding the brain and tracing down the wires is the first step. There are three important things to look for.
1) The starter wire, it will be either red/lt blue stripe or dark green. Find the point of connection to the remote starter and make sure the wire wasn't cut and rerouted through a relay (starter kill option). The cut / connection will probably be either in the steering column, or in the loom of wires running from the key switch, down the steering column towards the firewall. The loom should be about the size of a roll of quarters. It will be black loom with black electrical tape or black cloth electrical tape around it.
2) There is a possibility of an immobilizer bypass module or 'key coffin' Check the area around the key switch. If there is a 'lasso' around the key cylinder that runs to a box approx the size of a deck of cards (a little skinnier and a little longer), and the box contains a key, this should be removed.
The other type of immobilizer bypass would require either A) a tap into the data wire at the OBD plug. or B) a tap and a cut into the 4 or 5 very small (24-28ga) wires coming out of the pickup for the key. This will be a plastic ring and a small plastic box that mounts to the key cylinder. You will be able to tell if there are aftermarket altercations. I doubt you will see this type. There may be a wire that is cut and rerouted through the bypass module here.
This wire will have to be reconnected.
3) 5wire door lock integration. If the alarm has two wires (green and blue) that head toward the radio, they are going to the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) These aer the lock/unlock output wires from the alarm. THey can be cut and capped off.
If you trace these wires to a pair of relays and the lock wires (pink-yellow stripe, and pink-lt.green strips OR white-red stripe, and black-white stripe) have been cut and rerouted through the relays, reconnect the wires and remove the relays.
Other than that, just tape up the wires where the connections were made and you are good to go.
Reinstallation is a little different. Not too bad, but more than I can type at this time.
cplkittle on 01/7/2007 19:25:33
one more thing, there may be a tap on one of the fuel injectors for a tach signal. This wire also needs to be removed and taped up safely. There may also be a wire heading up to the instrument cluster for the wait to start wire. (I forgot this was a diesel) This wire can be cut and capped as well. unless you want to pull the instrument cluster and remove it. Capping it off is easier.
cplkittle on 01/8/2007 00:04:17
Ok, I got a little time, so here is the reinstall information:
The first group of wires can be found in the ignition harness that runs from the key cylinder down the steering column. DO NOT MESS WITH ANY WIRES IN A SMALL YELLOW CORRUGATED OR SMOOTH JACKET LOOM. These are the airbag wires..
wires listed with a color / color have a stripe. the second color is the stripe color.
Constant 12v - Yellow and lt.grn / purple
Starter - red / lt.blue
Ignition - White / yellow
Second ignition - pink / black
Accessory - Black / lt.green
Second Accessory - Grey / Yellow (must connect for gauges to work properly) if there is no second accessory from the alarm brain, a relay can be used to power this wire.
Power lock / unlock wires can be found near the driver's door boot / drivers kick panel running to the rear in the track under the door trim on the car.
Power lock - pink / yellow
Power unlock - pink / green
These wires require a positive pulse to activate. Most remote start lock/unlock wires are neg pulse. Use 2 relays to reverse polarity.
Parking lights - brown
Wire can be found at the LCM (lighting controll module) to the right of the steering column. It needs positive to trigger the lights. Check polarity of starter unit light output wire.
Door trigger - dk.blue & black / orange (only if starter has alarm feature) This wire is in the drivers door at the drivers door module just below the mirror. It switches to negative when a door is opened.
Trunk pin trigger - brown / white switches to negative when trunk is opened found at LCM.
Trunk release - Red. This wire is in a harness in the drivers kick panel going to the rear of the vehicle. It is a 5 wire setup. You have to cut the wire and use a relay. relay wiring:
30 - red wire to trunk
87a - red wire to BCM
87 - constand 12v (fused)
85 - output from starter brain
86 - opposite polarity (constant) of output from brain
Tachometer wire - There is an ignition coil for each of the eight cylinders. The closest one to the front of the motor on the drivers side has green/white or green/yellow wire. Either of these wires will work.
Brake wire - Red / lt.green LCM (positive trigger)
Horn trigger - Dk. Blue (negative trigger)
There is no factory alarm notated, so either it does not have one, or the alarm arms/disarms with lock/unlock.
swez on 01/8/2007 03:17:13
Roger that Kit and thanks for all the details. Will have to study this in depth and probably ask a few more questions as I see them pop up.
Hummm, this sounds like a pretty complex ordeal. Let's see if I can get my hands on all this and make it happen.
Thanks much, ;-)
Swez
I don't know the brand names of either kits at the moment, but have some apprehensions on doing this on my own. Basically, am I planning to bite off more than I can chew here?
Whatcha think? Yes, I have meters and a solid background in electrical circuits. Both vehicles have remote locking kits already. The Lincoln has a factory alarm system of some sort, but am sure it's very inferior to the one I am contemplating here.
Comments or thoughts?
Swez
Replies (4)
cplkittle on 01/7/2007 19:21:14
Removing an alarm/remote start is not that difficult. Finding the brain and tracing down the wires is the first step. There are three important things to look for.
1) The starter wire, it will be either red/lt blue stripe or dark green. Find the point of connection to the remote starter and make sure the wire wasn't cut and rerouted through a relay (starter kill option). The cut / connection will probably be either in the steering column, or in the loom of wires running from the key switch, down the steering column towards the firewall. The loom should be about the size of a roll of quarters. It will be black loom with black electrical tape or black cloth electrical tape around it.
2) There is a possibility of an immobilizer bypass module or 'key coffin' Check the area around the key switch. If there is a 'lasso' around the key cylinder that runs to a box approx the size of a deck of cards (a little skinnier and a little longer), and the box contains a key, this should be removed.
The other type of immobilizer bypass would require either A) a tap into the data wire at the OBD plug. or B) a tap and a cut into the 4 or 5 very small (24-28ga) wires coming out of the pickup for the key. This will be a plastic ring and a small plastic box that mounts to the key cylinder. You will be able to tell if there are aftermarket altercations. I doubt you will see this type. There may be a wire that is cut and rerouted through the bypass module here.
This wire will have to be reconnected.
3) 5wire door lock integration. If the alarm has two wires (green and blue) that head toward the radio, they are going to the VSM (Vehicle Security Module) These aer the lock/unlock output wires from the alarm. THey can be cut and capped off.
If you trace these wires to a pair of relays and the lock wires (pink-yellow stripe, and pink-lt.green strips OR white-red stripe, and black-white stripe) have been cut and rerouted through the relays, reconnect the wires and remove the relays.
Other than that, just tape up the wires where the connections were made and you are good to go.
Reinstallation is a little different. Not too bad, but more than I can type at this time.
cplkittle on 01/7/2007 19:25:33
one more thing, there may be a tap on one of the fuel injectors for a tach signal. This wire also needs to be removed and taped up safely. There may also be a wire heading up to the instrument cluster for the wait to start wire. (I forgot this was a diesel) This wire can be cut and capped as well. unless you want to pull the instrument cluster and remove it. Capping it off is easier.
cplkittle on 01/8/2007 00:04:17
Ok, I got a little time, so here is the reinstall information:
The first group of wires can be found in the ignition harness that runs from the key cylinder down the steering column. DO NOT MESS WITH ANY WIRES IN A SMALL YELLOW CORRUGATED OR SMOOTH JACKET LOOM. These are the airbag wires..
wires listed with a color / color have a stripe. the second color is the stripe color.
Constant 12v - Yellow and lt.grn / purple
Starter - red / lt.blue
Ignition - White / yellow
Second ignition - pink / black
Accessory - Black / lt.green
Second Accessory - Grey / Yellow (must connect for gauges to work properly) if there is no second accessory from the alarm brain, a relay can be used to power this wire.
Power lock / unlock wires can be found near the driver's door boot / drivers kick panel running to the rear in the track under the door trim on the car.
Power lock - pink / yellow
Power unlock - pink / green
These wires require a positive pulse to activate. Most remote start lock/unlock wires are neg pulse. Use 2 relays to reverse polarity.
Parking lights - brown
Wire can be found at the LCM (lighting controll module) to the right of the steering column. It needs positive to trigger the lights. Check polarity of starter unit light output wire.
Door trigger - dk.blue & black / orange (only if starter has alarm feature) This wire is in the drivers door at the drivers door module just below the mirror. It switches to negative when a door is opened.
Trunk pin trigger - brown / white switches to negative when trunk is opened found at LCM.
Trunk release - Red. This wire is in a harness in the drivers kick panel going to the rear of the vehicle. It is a 5 wire setup. You have to cut the wire and use a relay. relay wiring:
30 - red wire to trunk
87a - red wire to BCM
87 - constand 12v (fused)
85 - output from starter brain
86 - opposite polarity (constant) of output from brain
Tachometer wire - There is an ignition coil for each of the eight cylinders. The closest one to the front of the motor on the drivers side has green/white or green/yellow wire. Either of these wires will work.
Brake wire - Red / lt.green LCM (positive trigger)
Horn trigger - Dk. Blue (negative trigger)
There is no factory alarm notated, so either it does not have one, or the alarm arms/disarms with lock/unlock.
swez on 01/8/2007 03:17:13
Roger that Kit and thanks for all the details. Will have to study this in depth and probably ask a few more questions as I see them pop up.
Hummm, this sounds like a pretty complex ordeal. Let's see if I can get my hands on all this and make it happen.
Thanks much, ;-)
Swez
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