Okay, here is my question. I have a stock '05 Pontiac Sunfire and just picked up a Dual XIA3145 580w amp with 2 12" Dual X0BP12D bandpass subs. After taking a sneak peak behind my radio i didn't see either RCA (which i have come to understand that i wouldn't) or a high level out, i have an appointment to have the amp hooked up, but if i can save the 70 bucks then i would.
I saw someone mention splicing into the rear speakers, and i'd rather avoid a rig like that. I'd really hate to be slammed for adapters at the install if i could do this on my own. I've installed some amps to after market decks, but they had RCA and were a breeze. I just don't want to screw up the radio because i can't afford to get a new one plus the other parts for it. Any information would be great, i'm pretty sure i can do this, just need a push in the right direction. Thanks.
GenocideFlux
Replies (17)
Ash on 12/29/2006 18:25:15
High level out is just another term for speaker output lines (wires).
In your case or any other one upgrading after the stock HU, there is no other way. If you went and paid the 70 bucks to whatever installer, guarantee you that is what he will do.
Using a LOC (line output convertor) isn't a bad thing, especially if the stock HU is fairly decent and you don't want to switch even if you could. And it's safe. Lot's of people use them!
Just make sure that it is appropriately ran and hidden from view if deem it necessary so no one will know what your running.
GenocideFlux on 12/29/2006 20:27:36
Thanks for the info, that's what i thought. I'll probably have them use a LOC as from what i understand it gives better sound quality then High Output. I'm going to see if i can get a LOC and have them use that as i think it will mostly hide itself if it's behind the HU. Again, thanks, and i'll check back soon if anyone has anything to add.
cplkittle on 12/29/2006 20:40:13
You can do this yourself, It would probably take just under 2 hours.
It will take an experineced installer 45 mintes or so.
A LOC is easy to install, other than that all you need is to run the power wire, tap into the acc circuit for a remote wire, and ground it.
We will walk you through it if you want.
GenocideFlux on 12/30/2006 23:35:21
Well, that would be mighty nice. I've decided i'm going to install it myself, and knowing what wires to splice would be helpful. Also, is an LOC something i could get at bestbuy or would i need a specialty shop to get one? I know of a car audio store, but would rather get a cheap LOC if i could, and i don't have a ATM card or anything so i have no ability to do online ordering. Other then that, i should be able to wire the amp up given a little time to look around my car, it just snowed so that may postpone my plans if it doesn't clear by monday...although i have a car port to work in if needed. thanks again.
GenocideFlux on 12/31/2006 16:46:31
Well, so far i have everything good to go. My only problem is, that when i add the lines for the "high output", as i don't have an LOC yet, my amp goes into protected mode. The LED light is green until i try to add that though. I'm left scratching my head as i don't see how new subs could be blown, and i've tried the wires both ways with no luck. Any help would be great, also, as i can see the amp, bolts, and wires are not touching any metal. I'm using a rear speaker that i'm not planning on using as the source for the high output, could that be my problem? If i have to run this all the way to the head unit, i'm still going to not use those speakers. I really can't think of anything else at the moment, so i'll add to this if something dawns on me. Thanks, and happy holidays everyone.
swez on 12/31/2006 17:30:31
I cannot say for certain this will work, but try hooking up the speaker as a load and then tap off the rear speakers to feed the high input side of your amp. If that works and you don't need the rear speakers, a load resistor will make it possible to to use either the high input or RCA's. It's just a matter of getting the proper voltage from the HU.
Also, this is a 2 channel amp right? How do you have the subs wired to this amp now? Try setting the amp gain to minimum sensitivity and remove sub wires from amp. If the amp status lamp stays green with subs unplugged, you'll need to check the ohmic load of the subs.
1 sub per channel? (2 ohms per channel min)
Amp bridged MONO and both subs in parallel? (4 ohms min bridged)
Here's the manual on that amp:
http://www.dualav.com/i/product/manual/xia3145.pdf
Manual for subs:
http://www.dualav.com/i/product/manual/xobp12d.pdf
Read the amp manual carefully as it gives all the key install details.
Note: Make sure the Illumilight terminals on the sub box, are not connected to speaker outs on amp.
Swez
ttocs on 12/31/2006 17:36:27
and here is a link to an article I wrote in our "how to" section full of great knowledge on frequently asked questions.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t13
GenocideFlux on 01/8/2007 12:39:54
Thanks for the help, everyone. I got them working, i was bridging them wrong, and inputs were wired wrong. I got my brother-in-law to look at it and he fixed it up for me. I am satisfied with the subs and have wired an on/off switch for my own comfort so i can shut them off before i enter bad area's and hometown. When i clean the mess up i'll get some pictures and post them for everyone's viewing pleasure.
-GFlux
swez on 01/8/2007 18:41:53
Well done and congratulations ol boy! CLAP !!!
If you have a few spare coins left, consider a modest donation to the CK site. Don't go for broke here... but right now, every dime counts.
Good luck,
Swez
GenocideFlux on 01/10/2007 14:10:44
Well, hello and updates. I've got pictures up: http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p162/genocideflux/ and i'll post the night shots on there tomorrow after work (3rd shift). Is the shovel like that a bad idea, i'm thinking of leaving it out or putting it in the back seat area, as soon as i get a new battery for my vid camera i'll take some vid of the bass playing...may take a minute though. lol. Well, my battery is beyond dead, so, just enjoy these for now and hope i get a battery...or something...soon.
-GFlux
p.s. Check back for the night shots!
swez on 01/10/2007 20:19:12
Power line through the fender well? not a good plan... ,ake a hole in the firewall and use a grommet to keep from damaging or nicking the wire.
Swez ;-)
GenocideFlux on 01/12/2007 11:34:47
Thanks for the correction on my power wire, i'll fix that when i get the moment. I'll keep checking the condition of the wire until i can move it. I'm glad i took that picture now, haha. I'll post new pictures when i fix the power wire.
I think my best bet for a fix is to take my front left quarter off and run it under that as there is a lot of stuff, from what i see, in the front of my firewall. I'm also trying to save from drilling, as my luck i'd drill into my electrical system. haha. Well, i'll let you guys know how i fare, cold weather makes it hard for me to do this kind of stuff....but, makes turning my car port into a garage all the more appealing an idea. I'll be back on here before i get to fix it, so let me know if there is any problem with running it under the q-panel. There is a large space running from front to door which is why i liked the idea, i just wanted to avoid having to take it off because it's been getting colder, but, if i have to i'll do it before it starts snowing.
-GFlux
ttocs on 01/12/2007 13:23:05
that is a big no no and you really should take the time to fix it when you can make a moment. It is fused and "should" be safe as long as it is fused properly(what is the fuse rating?).
You could how ever save some time if you like and install a fire extinguisher if you do not want to, but be aware that is a joke and isn't all at the same time......
GenocideFlux on 01/12/2007 18:26:29
haha, of course, a fire extinguisher is a good thing for just in case, but, i moved it so it's not floating under the windshield like that. I it took about an hour and a half but i didn't have to remove the quarter panel to get in behind it. I'll get some pictures of the new rig tomorrow or so and upload it. The fuse is a 40amp and i'd like to put a 50amp in if it's fine to do so.
On a side note, what does the crossover frequency do for eceryday listening, and what should i know about adjusting it on this setup?
Thanks, i'm definately glad i decided to stop by this forum.
-GFlux
swez on 01/13/2007 02:22:13
For car installs, most of us use a crossover point around 80 Hz. Set you low pass filter on this amp at 80 Hz and tweak above and below a tad until it sounds best in your ride.
Swez
PS I seen a few 'Rube Goldburg' installs where the power cable was fed through the fender well and it worked OK for years. It really is a bad plan, but if the door jamb is well gasketed and the wiring jacket is pretty robust, it did work. Just watch for chaffing on the wire in the jamb and maybe run a few wraps of electrical tape over that section until you can re-route your line.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 01/13/2007 03:36:53
Mine is ran through the fenderwell because because I have no other choice, my family would kill me if I drilled a hole in my car
GenocideFlux on 01/18/2007 05:06:02
Thanks for the advice about reinforcing the wire, when i rerouted it the hinge inner workings of the door concerned me so i took the extra time to make sure it flowed freely and didn't catch or crush my power line. Thanks for the info about the crossover, i'll try to get it at 80 Hz as it's only marked for 40 and 400, haha.
Yeah, i'm in a similair situation until i pay off my step mother for my car, she's going to flip when i pull around with a new spoiler or undercar lights. well, i'm only supposed to be on a midnight snack so i'll check back .
-GFlux
I saw someone mention splicing into the rear speakers, and i'd rather avoid a rig like that. I'd really hate to be slammed for adapters at the install if i could do this on my own. I've installed some amps to after market decks, but they had RCA and were a breeze. I just don't want to screw up the radio because i can't afford to get a new one plus the other parts for it. Any information would be great, i'm pretty sure i can do this, just need a push in the right direction. Thanks.
GenocideFlux
Replies (17)
Ash on 12/29/2006 18:25:15
High level out is just another term for speaker output lines (wires).
In your case or any other one upgrading after the stock HU, there is no other way. If you went and paid the 70 bucks to whatever installer, guarantee you that is what he will do.
Using a LOC (line output convertor) isn't a bad thing, especially if the stock HU is fairly decent and you don't want to switch even if you could. And it's safe. Lot's of people use them!
Just make sure that it is appropriately ran and hidden from view if deem it necessary so no one will know what your running.
GenocideFlux on 12/29/2006 20:27:36
Thanks for the info, that's what i thought. I'll probably have them use a LOC as from what i understand it gives better sound quality then High Output. I'm going to see if i can get a LOC and have them use that as i think it will mostly hide itself if it's behind the HU. Again, thanks, and i'll check back soon if anyone has anything to add.
cplkittle on 12/29/2006 20:40:13
You can do this yourself, It would probably take just under 2 hours.
It will take an experineced installer 45 mintes or so.
A LOC is easy to install, other than that all you need is to run the power wire, tap into the acc circuit for a remote wire, and ground it.
We will walk you through it if you want.
GenocideFlux on 12/30/2006 23:35:21
Well, that would be mighty nice. I've decided i'm going to install it myself, and knowing what wires to splice would be helpful. Also, is an LOC something i could get at bestbuy or would i need a specialty shop to get one? I know of a car audio store, but would rather get a cheap LOC if i could, and i don't have a ATM card or anything so i have no ability to do online ordering. Other then that, i should be able to wire the amp up given a little time to look around my car, it just snowed so that may postpone my plans if it doesn't clear by monday...although i have a car port to work in if needed. thanks again.
GenocideFlux on 12/31/2006 16:46:31
Well, so far i have everything good to go. My only problem is, that when i add the lines for the "high output", as i don't have an LOC yet, my amp goes into protected mode. The LED light is green until i try to add that though. I'm left scratching my head as i don't see how new subs could be blown, and i've tried the wires both ways with no luck. Any help would be great, also, as i can see the amp, bolts, and wires are not touching any metal. I'm using a rear speaker that i'm not planning on using as the source for the high output, could that be my problem? If i have to run this all the way to the head unit, i'm still going to not use those speakers. I really can't think of anything else at the moment, so i'll add to this if something dawns on me. Thanks, and happy holidays everyone.
swez on 12/31/2006 17:30:31
I cannot say for certain this will work, but try hooking up the speaker as a load and then tap off the rear speakers to feed the high input side of your amp. If that works and you don't need the rear speakers, a load resistor will make it possible to to use either the high input or RCA's. It's just a matter of getting the proper voltage from the HU.
Also, this is a 2 channel amp right? How do you have the subs wired to this amp now? Try setting the amp gain to minimum sensitivity and remove sub wires from amp. If the amp status lamp stays green with subs unplugged, you'll need to check the ohmic load of the subs.
1 sub per channel? (2 ohms per channel min)
Amp bridged MONO and both subs in parallel? (4 ohms min bridged)
Here's the manual on that amp:
http://www.dualav.com/i/product/manual/xia3145.pdf
Manual for subs:
http://www.dualav.com/i/product/manual/xobp12d.pdf
Read the amp manual carefully as it gives all the key install details.
Note: Make sure the Illumilight terminals on the sub box, are not connected to speaker outs on amp.
Swez
ttocs on 12/31/2006 17:36:27
and here is a link to an article I wrote in our "how to" section full of great knowledge on frequently asked questions.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/Car_Audio_FAQ/?t13
GenocideFlux on 01/8/2007 12:39:54
Thanks for the help, everyone. I got them working, i was bridging them wrong, and inputs were wired wrong. I got my brother-in-law to look at it and he fixed it up for me. I am satisfied with the subs and have wired an on/off switch for my own comfort so i can shut them off before i enter bad area's and hometown. When i clean the mess up i'll get some pictures and post them for everyone's viewing pleasure.
-GFlux
swez on 01/8/2007 18:41:53
Well done and congratulations ol boy! CLAP !!!
If you have a few spare coins left, consider a modest donation to the CK site. Don't go for broke here... but right now, every dime counts.
Good luck,
Swez
GenocideFlux on 01/10/2007 14:10:44
Well, hello and updates. I've got pictures up: http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p162/genocideflux/ and i'll post the night shots on there tomorrow after work (3rd shift). Is the shovel like that a bad idea, i'm thinking of leaving it out or putting it in the back seat area, as soon as i get a new battery for my vid camera i'll take some vid of the bass playing...may take a minute though. lol. Well, my battery is beyond dead, so, just enjoy these for now and hope i get a battery...or something...soon.
-GFlux
p.s. Check back for the night shots!
swez on 01/10/2007 20:19:12
Power line through the fender well? not a good plan... ,ake a hole in the firewall and use a grommet to keep from damaging or nicking the wire.
Swez ;-)
GenocideFlux on 01/12/2007 11:34:47
Thanks for the correction on my power wire, i'll fix that when i get the moment. I'll keep checking the condition of the wire until i can move it. I'm glad i took that picture now, haha. I'll post new pictures when i fix the power wire.
I think my best bet for a fix is to take my front left quarter off and run it under that as there is a lot of stuff, from what i see, in the front of my firewall. I'm also trying to save from drilling, as my luck i'd drill into my electrical system. haha. Well, i'll let you guys know how i fare, cold weather makes it hard for me to do this kind of stuff....but, makes turning my car port into a garage all the more appealing an idea. I'll be back on here before i get to fix it, so let me know if there is any problem with running it under the q-panel. There is a large space running from front to door which is why i liked the idea, i just wanted to avoid having to take it off because it's been getting colder, but, if i have to i'll do it before it starts snowing.
-GFlux
ttocs on 01/12/2007 13:23:05
that is a big no no and you really should take the time to fix it when you can make a moment. It is fused and "should" be safe as long as it is fused properly(what is the fuse rating?).
You could how ever save some time if you like and install a fire extinguisher if you do not want to, but be aware that is a joke and isn't all at the same time......
GenocideFlux on 01/12/2007 18:26:29
haha, of course, a fire extinguisher is a good thing for just in case, but, i moved it so it's not floating under the windshield like that. I it took about an hour and a half but i didn't have to remove the quarter panel to get in behind it. I'll get some pictures of the new rig tomorrow or so and upload it. The fuse is a 40amp and i'd like to put a 50amp in if it's fine to do so.
On a side note, what does the crossover frequency do for eceryday listening, and what should i know about adjusting it on this setup?
Thanks, i'm definately glad i decided to stop by this forum.
-GFlux
swez on 01/13/2007 02:22:13
For car installs, most of us use a crossover point around 80 Hz. Set you low pass filter on this amp at 80 Hz and tweak above and below a tad until it sounds best in your ride.
Swez
PS I seen a few 'Rube Goldburg' installs where the power cable was fed through the fender well and it worked OK for years. It really is a bad plan, but if the door jamb is well gasketed and the wiring jacket is pretty robust, it did work. Just watch for chaffing on the wire in the jamb and maybe run a few wraps of electrical tape over that section until you can re-route your line.
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 01/13/2007 03:36:53
Mine is ran through the fenderwell because because I have no other choice, my family would kill me if I drilled a hole in my car
GenocideFlux on 01/18/2007 05:06:02
Thanks for the advice about reinforcing the wire, when i rerouted it the hinge inner workings of the door concerned me so i took the extra time to make sure it flowed freely and didn't catch or crush my power line. Thanks for the info about the crossover, i'll try to get it at 80 Hz as it's only marked for 40 and 400, haha.
Yeah, i'm in a similair situation until i pay off my step mother for my car, she's going to flip when i pull around with a new spoiler or undercar lights. well, i'm only supposed to be on a midnight snack so i'll check back .
-GFlux
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
