I have a Sony Xplode 1200W 12" subwoofer powered by a Rockford Fosgate
900W amplifier. I recently moved these components from a Mits. Eclipse
to a BMW Z4. The subwoofer is barely working in the Z4 and the
installers say it's because the power output from the factory Z4 stereo
isn't as strong as the power output from the factory Eclipse stereo.
Could this be true? I thought that's what the amp was for. The
installers have suggested I spend another $60-80 on a "line driver" to
help this problem. Does this sound right? Thanks for any help!
Replies (4)
swez on 12/27/2006 18:35:46
Hard to say as it depends on how the amp is connected to the stock system in your Beemer.
If the stock Beemer HU, (Radio) does not have RCA outputs for the sub, (typically not) one can tap off the rear speakers and run lines from them to the high signal input side of the amp. Most amps have that feature and when adjusting the amp gain controls, we can usually manage adequate bass in that mode.
The other way is like he said, use a Line Driver that converts low signal audio to a higher level that can be used by the amp RCA inputs.
The 3rd option is most common and involves removing the stock HU and using a nice Aftermarket model that gives 2-3 pairs of RCA outs and is plug and go for outboard amplifiers. (full range and subs) This option give concert level sound power, often some nice extra features, (EQ, I-Pod or Aux inputs and some offer DSP) Digital signal processors.
What model number amp and subs do you have?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/27/2006 19:13:41
BMW stereos are a real pain to work on sometimes....My brother has a 740iL, and getting the bass out of it is seriously difficult. He has an Alpine MRD-M450 and an Infinity Perfect DVQ 12, and he has trouble keping his bass at the levels of my ghetto setup.
Most Bimmers come out of the factory with some sort of sub setup, although frequently it is a bank of 4 4"-5.1/4 drivers, usually low wattage with paper cones....
Does your Bimmer have DSP? This is very important to know, as non DSP stereos are a whole 'nuther ballpark. If it is DSP, make for absolute certain you are tapping into the subwoofer outs. All the outputs from the DSP amps are crossed over for mids, tweeters and subs, so sending the wrong signal to the amp will cause it to make literally no bass, because the inputs are crossed over by the amp. Hence, ZERO desireable output. You could be running a 12" tweeter here.
Another issue is the type of vehicle you have tranferred from. With exception of the Spyder models, Eclipses are invariably hatchbacks. Cabin gain effects, and the fact there is no trunk wall to penetrate will make the Eclipse sould a little better pretty much based on that. Exspecially with the top down, ( I am assuming this in a convertible, I haven't seen many of those SEXY hatchback looking Z4's around, But I wish I did...) you have even more baffling to try to penetrate. This is why I will never drive a convertible, sexy, but impratical.
If your car is non DSP equipped, I would suggest scrapping the stock H/U entirely. BMW make the nicest cars in my opinion, but the complications in their sound systems is rediciolus. I have gotten to the point that I will not help my bro with his stereo anymore because it is so complicated. He has blown about 4 Infinity perfect's, 2 of the X-plodes you are talking about, and a Pioneer sub. Major noise issues from factory sub-outs as well.
I'm not sure if this is in bad form here, But the guys at BimmerBoard.com can probably help you out a little more with some model specific questions, they have seperate forums for DSP/Navigation questions, as well as a seperate board for all things Z4.
Best of luck to you, I know how tricky these beasts are.
Shootuh
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/27/2006 19:32:02
This is shootuh's Brother, my bro and the other guy swez is right. I work on all sorts of newer BMW's and if you have the stock NON HiFi just scrap it out, if you need help keeping you stock deck just email, but if you have the HiFi Harmon Kardon set up, make sure you are tapping in the right line levels coming from the amp. And you are going to need a line level convertor to do this.
What model of Z4 do you have the well just say if you have the HiFi or non HiFi.
Just pick you model here or enter the last 7 of you VIN and you have all the info you ever wanted.
http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=&kind=P&series=E85&arch=0
I hope this helps you out.
cplkittle on 12/27/2006 21:15:43
There are two things that may be hindering you. If you have the premium sound, the mids may be crossed over with a low pass filter where the lows are cut out. If you tap these wires, you will get a weak bass signal.
If you tap the wires before the factory amplifier (right behind the radio) the line out converter (LOC)which changes from speaker wire to RCA may be getting a signal that is too weak to amplify. The LOCs are made to reduce the power that a radio puts out down to a level that RCAs carry. If you tap a weak signal, a LOC will only reduce it even further.
If you have a factory sub, tap the speaker wires right before the sub and use a LOC to change it over to RCA, and that should work without problems.
If none of these fix the problem, then look at purchasing a line driver.
900W amplifier. I recently moved these components from a Mits. Eclipse
to a BMW Z4. The subwoofer is barely working in the Z4 and the
installers say it's because the power output from the factory Z4 stereo
isn't as strong as the power output from the factory Eclipse stereo.
Could this be true? I thought that's what the amp was for. The
installers have suggested I spend another $60-80 on a "line driver" to
help this problem. Does this sound right? Thanks for any help!
Replies (4)
swez on 12/27/2006 18:35:46
Hard to say as it depends on how the amp is connected to the stock system in your Beemer.
If the stock Beemer HU, (Radio) does not have RCA outputs for the sub, (typically not) one can tap off the rear speakers and run lines from them to the high signal input side of the amp. Most amps have that feature and when adjusting the amp gain controls, we can usually manage adequate bass in that mode.
The other way is like he said, use a Line Driver that converts low signal audio to a higher level that can be used by the amp RCA inputs.
The 3rd option is most common and involves removing the stock HU and using a nice Aftermarket model that gives 2-3 pairs of RCA outs and is plug and go for outboard amplifiers. (full range and subs) This option give concert level sound power, often some nice extra features, (EQ, I-Pod or Aux inputs and some offer DSP) Digital signal processors.
What model number amp and subs do you have?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/27/2006 19:13:41
BMW stereos are a real pain to work on sometimes....My brother has a 740iL, and getting the bass out of it is seriously difficult. He has an Alpine MRD-M450 and an Infinity Perfect DVQ 12, and he has trouble keping his bass at the levels of my ghetto setup.
Most Bimmers come out of the factory with some sort of sub setup, although frequently it is a bank of 4 4"-5.1/4 drivers, usually low wattage with paper cones....
Does your Bimmer have DSP? This is very important to know, as non DSP stereos are a whole 'nuther ballpark. If it is DSP, make for absolute certain you are tapping into the subwoofer outs. All the outputs from the DSP amps are crossed over for mids, tweeters and subs, so sending the wrong signal to the amp will cause it to make literally no bass, because the inputs are crossed over by the amp. Hence, ZERO desireable output. You could be running a 12" tweeter here.
Another issue is the type of vehicle you have tranferred from. With exception of the Spyder models, Eclipses are invariably hatchbacks. Cabin gain effects, and the fact there is no trunk wall to penetrate will make the Eclipse sould a little better pretty much based on that. Exspecially with the top down, ( I am assuming this in a convertible, I haven't seen many of those SEXY hatchback looking Z4's around, But I wish I did...) you have even more baffling to try to penetrate. This is why I will never drive a convertible, sexy, but impratical.
If your car is non DSP equipped, I would suggest scrapping the stock H/U entirely. BMW make the nicest cars in my opinion, but the complications in their sound systems is rediciolus. I have gotten to the point that I will not help my bro with his stereo anymore because it is so complicated. He has blown about 4 Infinity perfect's, 2 of the X-plodes you are talking about, and a Pioneer sub. Major noise issues from factory sub-outs as well.
I'm not sure if this is in bad form here, But the guys at BimmerBoard.com can probably help you out a little more with some model specific questions, they have seperate forums for DSP/Navigation questions, as well as a seperate board for all things Z4.
Best of luck to you, I know how tricky these beasts are.
Shootuh
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/27/2006 19:32:02
This is shootuh's Brother, my bro and the other guy swez is right. I work on all sorts of newer BMW's and if you have the stock NON HiFi just scrap it out, if you need help keeping you stock deck just email, but if you have the HiFi Harmon Kardon set up, make sure you are tapping in the right line levels coming from the amp. And you are going to need a line level convertor to do this.
What model of Z4 do you have the well just say if you have the HiFi or non HiFi.
Just pick you model here or enter the last 7 of you VIN and you have all the info you ever wanted.
http://realoem.com/bmw/select.do?vin=&kind=P&series=E85&arch=0
I hope this helps you out.
cplkittle on 12/27/2006 21:15:43
There are two things that may be hindering you. If you have the premium sound, the mids may be crossed over with a low pass filter where the lows are cut out. If you tap these wires, you will get a weak bass signal.
If you tap the wires before the factory amplifier (right behind the radio) the line out converter (LOC)which changes from speaker wire to RCA may be getting a signal that is too weak to amplify. The LOCs are made to reduce the power that a radio puts out down to a level that RCAs carry. If you tap a weak signal, a LOC will only reduce it even further.
If you have a factory sub, tap the speaker wires right before the sub and use a LOC to change it over to RCA, and that should work without problems.
If none of these fix the problem, then look at purchasing a line driver.
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