OK. Lets just say that the previous owner of my 1985 Nissan 300zx gutted the radio area. I have all kinds of wires goin' all kinds of places, about 2 tons of black tape, and no Idea what to do. I read a real good article on this site telling me how to go through my wires and get hooked up....but I have no wires to test. I need to start from scratch. All I have is an Eclipse 5301 and speakers. No amp. I'm sure this is possible, but I don't know how. Can someone help
Replies (29)
cplkittle on 12/10/2006 23:42:45
It might possibly be easier to run new wires to each speaker.
Are there any wires left in the dash area?
Brother_Dave on 12/10/2006 23:49:22
speaker wires, i have, the dash area has wires going to the ac (that doesn't work) and the clock (also doesn't work). Fuses are all good. Is it possible to run the ground, constant power, backup power, and illumination, simply by running wires to battery, frame, etc.? If so.....whats the "etc."?
swez on 12/10/2006 23:50:46
Your best tools here, would be a wiring schematic and a multimeter.
The wiring diagrams would help to identify what color wires are suppose to connect to a give component function in the dash. Once the wire codes are identified, then it's a matter of probing each known wire for power, speakers or other dash functions that might be present in the wires you can see.
This requires a good (Vehicle specific) Nissan manual with all the corresponding wire color codes. That could be an expensive purchase, but if you plan to keep the car and perhaps even restore it, a very good investment both now and later.
Another approach is to completely rewire your radio and speakers with new wiring. That is possible and may be appropriate, depending on how bad a mess was left by the previous owner. It won't be easy or something one can do in 1 day, but that might be your best option.
Basically, we are looking at 4 pair of speaker wires. (LF,RF, RR & LR)
The HU, (Eclipse Radio) will need the following additional wires.
1. ACC/IGN wire and fused (Red)
2. +12 volt Constant power feed (Yellow)
3. A ground wire (Black)
4. Illumination wire- often optional and not always needed (Orange)
5. Power antenna/Amp remote (Blue)
6. Coax antenna cable for AM/FM reception
OK, these are the basic wiring needs your Eclipse HU will need. Now, the question is whether you can find them in that tape wadded mess or do it all over. Take your pick.
Comments?
Swez
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 00:05:18
"1. ACC/IGN wire and fused (Red)" Where do I run the wire?
"2. +12 volt Constant power feed (Yellow)" Where do I run the wire?
"3. A ground wire (Black)" Got that
"4. Illumination wire- often optional and not always needed (Orange) "Where do I run the wire?
"5. Power antenna/Amp remote (Blue)" Got That
"6. Coax antenna cable for AM/FM reception" Got That
swez on 12/11/2006 00:30:07
Good, we are communicating at a level we both understand!
1. The Red wire is fused and can be run to the main fuse panel location marked ACC/IGN. (This wire only has power to it when the key is in ACC mode or engine is running)
2. The Yellow wire goes right to the Battery + terminal or you may find a spot in the fuse panel that states BAT +. (This wire has a +12 supply at all times and usually power the station memory, clock if any and sometimes even the HU power amps) If your Yellow wire does power the amps too, fuse that as well... 10A's.
3. If you HU has a dimming feature, you can tape the yellow wire and ignore it. It normally connects to the dash light dimmer circuits, but not abolutely needed.
Since you already found the speaker wires, the next step is to find out which wires go to what speaker locations. This can be done with a simple 9 volt battery.
Here, most speaker lines are paired and easy to ID. The solid color wire is often the speaker + line and the color/stripe is usually ground. You can easily confirm this by touching the speaker wires to the 9 volt battery terminals. If the cones move out and you hear clicks and pops, you have ID the proper speaker location and wiring polarity. Repeat that step until all 4 paired wires are ID'd. A notepad and flashlight come in handy for this step.
Does that help?
Swez
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:35:32
You can tap the constant and accessory wire in the ignition harness ( about the size of a roll of quarters) it runs from the ignition switch, down the steering column, and usually heads left towards the fuse panel. There will be 4-6 significantly larger wires in it (10 or 12 gauge) The constant wire is white with a blue stripe and the accessory wire is white with a purple stripe.
I could not find the OEM wiring harness color code for the radio.
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 00:37:02
You guys are awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
one question. If I ignore the illumination wire, will I be unable to see my HU at night?
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:37:56
yes, the illumination wire sometimes called the dimmer wire only dims the illum when you turn the lights on
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 00:47:57
Just to make sure: Do I need to do something crazy for the ground, or can i run it to somewhere on the frame?
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:49:36
a good bare metal spot on the frame is ideal. use a wire brush to remove any paint or rust. it needs to be clean and freshly brushed.
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 01:00:29
My lord! Thank you guys. I realize there is MANY more intricacies of car audio that I am not even close to understanding. However, I knew what I was wanting to do was, somehow, simple. In the space of an hour, you guys told me, in a way I could understand, how to get the job done. THANK YOU!
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 01:05:51
That's what we do, man.
It's something we all enjoy, and this is a great place for us to chat and help others. Stop by whenever you have a question about anything car audio, video, or security realted. or just stop in to say hello.
This is a totally free site, run by donations. If ya have some change to spare it is appreciated but not expected.
swez on 12/11/2006 01:28:24
Yes, that is what we do Dave and when we get guys like you on the board, that makes our jobs so much easier.
Nice tag team job there Kit... You're a Diamond! (as always)
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/11/2006 01:48:46
I may be4 a little late on this, but running a wire from the H/u to the stereo fuse in the dash is how I get around this problem in vehicles with this problem, it has never failed me, I just ran a ground to the metal in the dashboard. The main descrepancy I had was finding a switched fuse, which wasn't very hard. I always run new speaker wires no matter what the install, except my current ride, and only because I run the stock speakers.
BTW Swez, If one totally kicks derreire, one can rewire a whole vehicle in a day. I rewired my Toyota 3 times in one week, (people just kept giving me better wires that week!), and It was never out of commission when I needed to go to work, and I rewired a Dodge Ram reg. cab in about two hours, but some of the interior peices were "dismantled" in a wreck, and the wires went from an outboard amp to the stock speaker locations, and under the seats.
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 15:20:28
Wow!!!! I was grotesguely overconfident in my abilities! I took it all apart (I'm good at that at least) and then realized "These are small conditions!" I don't know the first thing about puttin a wire into the fuse box. So then I checked for the ignition harness. There are about 8 different junctions (that's the harness right?)and in such places where, even if I knew which ones to cout into, I cant get wire cutters there.
so maybe I should take this as a sign to pay a proffesional $100 to get the job done. But, seiing as this is christmas time, and my kids need Santa more than I need The Who, I thought maybe some one could help me out with the steps necessary to go either route available? Something tells me it would be easier to learn how to patch into my fuse box, but I already expressed that I'm an idiot.
Any more drink from your fountain of knowledge for me??????
Brother Dave
swez on 12/11/2006 18:12:01
LOL, there's more to this stuff than meet the eye huh?
Since you already ID'd the speaker wires in that glop of tape, chances are good that the ACC/IGN and +12 Constant can be found with a $3.00 automotive test light.
This is a very simple pencil type tool with a probe point and a length of wire with an alligator type clip on the end of the wire. This one happens to use an LED lamp, but a reguluar 12 volt automotive bulb works just as well. This shows how tomake one, but you can buy one at any autoparts store for cheap:
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/test-equip/led-test-lamp.htm
With this DC test light, you can locate both ACC/IGN and Constant 12 volt wires. Here's how:
1. Alligator clip goes to chassis ground
2. Probe tip is used to locate powered wires in the dash
With the key out of the ignition, probe for the "Constant +12 volt line" first in that bundled mess. You'll know you have it right when the lamp goes on and stays on. (Tip: Many cigarette lighters are constant 12 volt circuits and are good for testing your probe initially) Note the color of that wire and tag it with some masking tape. Your HU's Yellow wire will go here.
Now, turn the key to ACC mode and probe wires again until the bulb illuminates, but shuts off the bulb when you remove the key. This is where your RED HU wire will connect. Mark that with tape too.
Now, how do we connect the HU harness wires together with the correct speaker and power wires? We often use crimp stype barrel connectors and a "Handy Dutchman". The Handy Dutchman is like a large set of pliers, but has several functions in one too. Here's what they look like. These can be found at autoparts stores, Walmart and Radio Shack too:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062789&cp=&origkw=Wire+crimping+tools&kw=wire+crimping+tools&parentPage=search
This model is good for many tasks both home and automotive. It has 3 crimper sizes, several wire stripper gage holes, a wire cutter and can even lop off small bolts too.
Get the right size barrel connectors for the wire gages you will be working with. Just buy extras so if you make a boo-boo, (bad crimp) you'll have extras on hand. (15-20 count pack is good)
Red ones are small gage: #18-22
Blue ones are medium gage: #14-16 (Most commonly used)
Yellow ones are large gage: #10-12
Hopefully, all your wiring extends beyond the dash panel. This tool is a bit large for working in very tight spaces, but with patience, it'll get the job done.
Got all that?
Swez
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 22:45:31
one word of wisdom.. YELLOW WIRES WITH YELLOW CONNECTORS ARE AIRBAG WIRES. DO NOT TOUCH THESE.
The ignition and constant wire will be in a harness of 8-12 wires, and they will be big wires (a little better than half the size of a #2 pencil)
Please put a fuse on the wire shortly after you tap it.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:05:07
Ok. I've finally done all that. I found the constant off the ignition, an acc in the dash, and ran a ground to my frame.
It still doesnt work
I bought the HU off Ebay for real cheap, so I realizt that it might just be a bad head but.......
I wanted to test for power to the hu, so i haven't hooked up the speakers
I skipped the illumination
I don't have either an antenna or and amp, so i skipped both blue wires.
Would not hooking up one or more of these things cause my eclipse 5301 not to work?
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 22:17:21
Not that I can think of.. try twisting the red and yellow wires together (positive) and touching them to the positive on the battery, and ofcourse the black to the negative.
The only other catch on an eclipse unit would be the lockout code. If it says CODE when you plug it in, you have to beg eclipse to decode it for you. You will have to send it to them.
I hope it all works out for you though.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:24:39
I did something wrong. I was messing with the car, tried to turn on the headlights, and they started going up and down (not turning on while doing this) over and over.
?????????????
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 22:33:51
lol,
you must have used the dimmer wire for a ground.
recheck the wires and that one will rest at negative and turn to positive when the lights are on.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:48:47
and so here I am.
The headlights were from me patching into the harness that has the light controls, and not plugging it back in.
but
I did the other thing you suggested. twisted red and yellow together and put a bit of extra wire on them and the ground then touched them to the battery terminals. Nada.! ZIppo! Ziltch.
HU if fried i suppose
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 22:52:18
Not to belittle you, but check the fuse on the back of the radio and when you connect the wires, sometime you have to press the powerbutton... I know you probably tried this, but I just want to make sure.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:54:46
that's just it, I don't have a fuse. not that i can find anyway.
It's not belittling, i did push the power button
also, when plugged in, it gets very warm only on the left side
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 23:06:13
I don't think there is anything else you can do. I would try to get my money back though.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 23:07:24
thanks at least i know it's ready to go when i can afford to buy a brand new one after christmas
swez on 12/16/2006 00:09:58
Does this HU even have a reset button Kit?
Also, heat on one side of the HU does indicate you have some power flowing into the HU. However, that is just one part of the equation. The other part is having the logic circuits, display and internal amps firing up too.
If you think this unit is pretty much trashed, consider taking the thing apart and looking around fo obvious signs of electrical damage on the main boards inside. Look for charred or hot spots on the board, briken traces and the like.
Fuses... some older HU's used only external fused pigtails. Some of the newer HU's have internal fuses too. If you see one of them inside the casing, inspect and replair/replace as needed.
Good luck,
Swez
Brother_Dave on 12/16/2006 00:16:30
have no idea what a reset kit is.
I looked for fuses havent seen any.
Actually the ebay has good pics of the unit i bought.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220053215417&rd=1&rd=1
there are other wires comming off the back. 2 sets of rca and a 13 pin (well not pin....hole i guess) cable. I figured i'd ignore it
I bought the hareness at circuit city and went from there.
But thanks. i think i will tear it apart.
i'm good at that kinda stuff. Demo!!!!!!!
cplkittle on 12/16/2006 03:08:21
The very small inset button to the upper left of the DISP button looks to be a reset button.. try powering it up and use a toothpick or needle to push it.. see if that does anything.
Replies (29)
cplkittle on 12/10/2006 23:42:45
It might possibly be easier to run new wires to each speaker.
Are there any wires left in the dash area?
Brother_Dave on 12/10/2006 23:49:22
speaker wires, i have, the dash area has wires going to the ac (that doesn't work) and the clock (also doesn't work). Fuses are all good. Is it possible to run the ground, constant power, backup power, and illumination, simply by running wires to battery, frame, etc.? If so.....whats the "etc."?
swez on 12/10/2006 23:50:46
Your best tools here, would be a wiring schematic and a multimeter.
The wiring diagrams would help to identify what color wires are suppose to connect to a give component function in the dash. Once the wire codes are identified, then it's a matter of probing each known wire for power, speakers or other dash functions that might be present in the wires you can see.
This requires a good (Vehicle specific) Nissan manual with all the corresponding wire color codes. That could be an expensive purchase, but if you plan to keep the car and perhaps even restore it, a very good investment both now and later.
Another approach is to completely rewire your radio and speakers with new wiring. That is possible and may be appropriate, depending on how bad a mess was left by the previous owner. It won't be easy or something one can do in 1 day, but that might be your best option.
Basically, we are looking at 4 pair of speaker wires. (LF,RF, RR & LR)
The HU, (Eclipse Radio) will need the following additional wires.
1. ACC/IGN wire and fused (Red)
2. +12 volt Constant power feed (Yellow)
3. A ground wire (Black)
4. Illumination wire- often optional and not always needed (Orange)
5. Power antenna/Amp remote (Blue)
6. Coax antenna cable for AM/FM reception
OK, these are the basic wiring needs your Eclipse HU will need. Now, the question is whether you can find them in that tape wadded mess or do it all over. Take your pick.
Comments?
Swez
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 00:05:18
"1. ACC/IGN wire and fused (Red)" Where do I run the wire?
"2. +12 volt Constant power feed (Yellow)" Where do I run the wire?
"3. A ground wire (Black)" Got that
"4. Illumination wire- often optional and not always needed (Orange) "Where do I run the wire?
"5. Power antenna/Amp remote (Blue)" Got That
"6. Coax antenna cable for AM/FM reception" Got That
swez on 12/11/2006 00:30:07
Good, we are communicating at a level we both understand!
1. The Red wire is fused and can be run to the main fuse panel location marked ACC/IGN. (This wire only has power to it when the key is in ACC mode or engine is running)
2. The Yellow wire goes right to the Battery + terminal or you may find a spot in the fuse panel that states BAT +. (This wire has a +12 supply at all times and usually power the station memory, clock if any and sometimes even the HU power amps) If your Yellow wire does power the amps too, fuse that as well... 10A's.
3. If you HU has a dimming feature, you can tape the yellow wire and ignore it. It normally connects to the dash light dimmer circuits, but not abolutely needed.
Since you already found the speaker wires, the next step is to find out which wires go to what speaker locations. This can be done with a simple 9 volt battery.
Here, most speaker lines are paired and easy to ID. The solid color wire is often the speaker + line and the color/stripe is usually ground. You can easily confirm this by touching the speaker wires to the 9 volt battery terminals. If the cones move out and you hear clicks and pops, you have ID the proper speaker location and wiring polarity. Repeat that step until all 4 paired wires are ID'd. A notepad and flashlight come in handy for this step.
Does that help?
Swez
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:35:32
You can tap the constant and accessory wire in the ignition harness ( about the size of a roll of quarters) it runs from the ignition switch, down the steering column, and usually heads left towards the fuse panel. There will be 4-6 significantly larger wires in it (10 or 12 gauge) The constant wire is white with a blue stripe and the accessory wire is white with a purple stripe.
I could not find the OEM wiring harness color code for the radio.
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 00:37:02
You guys are awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
one question. If I ignore the illumination wire, will I be unable to see my HU at night?
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:37:56
yes, the illumination wire sometimes called the dimmer wire only dims the illum when you turn the lights on
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 00:47:57
Just to make sure: Do I need to do something crazy for the ground, or can i run it to somewhere on the frame?
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:49:36
a good bare metal spot on the frame is ideal. use a wire brush to remove any paint or rust. it needs to be clean and freshly brushed.
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 01:00:29
My lord! Thank you guys. I realize there is MANY more intricacies of car audio that I am not even close to understanding. However, I knew what I was wanting to do was, somehow, simple. In the space of an hour, you guys told me, in a way I could understand, how to get the job done. THANK YOU!
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 01:05:51
That's what we do, man.
It's something we all enjoy, and this is a great place for us to chat and help others. Stop by whenever you have a question about anything car audio, video, or security realted. or just stop in to say hello.
This is a totally free site, run by donations. If ya have some change to spare it is appreciated but not expected.
swez on 12/11/2006 01:28:24
Yes, that is what we do Dave and when we get guys like you on the board, that makes our jobs so much easier.
Nice tag team job there Kit... You're a Diamond! (as always)
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/11/2006 01:48:46
I may be4 a little late on this, but running a wire from the H/u to the stereo fuse in the dash is how I get around this problem in vehicles with this problem, it has never failed me, I just ran a ground to the metal in the dashboard. The main descrepancy I had was finding a switched fuse, which wasn't very hard. I always run new speaker wires no matter what the install, except my current ride, and only because I run the stock speakers.
BTW Swez, If one totally kicks derreire, one can rewire a whole vehicle in a day. I rewired my Toyota 3 times in one week, (people just kept giving me better wires that week!), and It was never out of commission when I needed to go to work, and I rewired a Dodge Ram reg. cab in about two hours, but some of the interior peices were "dismantled" in a wreck, and the wires went from an outboard amp to the stock speaker locations, and under the seats.
Brother_Dave on 12/11/2006 15:20:28
Wow!!!! I was grotesguely overconfident in my abilities! I took it all apart (I'm good at that at least) and then realized "These are small conditions!" I don't know the first thing about puttin a wire into the fuse box. So then I checked for the ignition harness. There are about 8 different junctions (that's the harness right?)and in such places where, even if I knew which ones to cout into, I cant get wire cutters there.
so maybe I should take this as a sign to pay a proffesional $100 to get the job done. But, seiing as this is christmas time, and my kids need Santa more than I need The Who, I thought maybe some one could help me out with the steps necessary to go either route available? Something tells me it would be easier to learn how to patch into my fuse box, but I already expressed that I'm an idiot.
Any more drink from your fountain of knowledge for me??????
Brother Dave
swez on 12/11/2006 18:12:01
LOL, there's more to this stuff than meet the eye huh?
Since you already ID'd the speaker wires in that glop of tape, chances are good that the ACC/IGN and +12 Constant can be found with a $3.00 automotive test light.
This is a very simple pencil type tool with a probe point and a length of wire with an alligator type clip on the end of the wire. This one happens to use an LED lamp, but a reguluar 12 volt automotive bulb works just as well. This shows how tomake one, but you can buy one at any autoparts store for cheap:
http://www.electronics-tutorials.com/test-equip/led-test-lamp.htm
With this DC test light, you can locate both ACC/IGN and Constant 12 volt wires. Here's how:
1. Alligator clip goes to chassis ground
2. Probe tip is used to locate powered wires in the dash
With the key out of the ignition, probe for the "Constant +12 volt line" first in that bundled mess. You'll know you have it right when the lamp goes on and stays on. (Tip: Many cigarette lighters are constant 12 volt circuits and are good for testing your probe initially) Note the color of that wire and tag it with some masking tape. Your HU's Yellow wire will go here.
Now, turn the key to ACC mode and probe wires again until the bulb illuminates, but shuts off the bulb when you remove the key. This is where your RED HU wire will connect. Mark that with tape too.
Now, how do we connect the HU harness wires together with the correct speaker and power wires? We often use crimp stype barrel connectors and a "Handy Dutchman". The Handy Dutchman is like a large set of pliers, but has several functions in one too. Here's what they look like. These can be found at autoparts stores, Walmart and Radio Shack too:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062789&cp=&origkw=Wire+crimping+tools&kw=wire+crimping+tools&parentPage=search
This model is good for many tasks both home and automotive. It has 3 crimper sizes, several wire stripper gage holes, a wire cutter and can even lop off small bolts too.
Get the right size barrel connectors for the wire gages you will be working with. Just buy extras so if you make a boo-boo, (bad crimp) you'll have extras on hand. (15-20 count pack is good)
Red ones are small gage: #18-22
Blue ones are medium gage: #14-16 (Most commonly used)
Yellow ones are large gage: #10-12
Hopefully, all your wiring extends beyond the dash panel. This tool is a bit large for working in very tight spaces, but with patience, it'll get the job done.
Got all that?
Swez
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 22:45:31
one word of wisdom.. YELLOW WIRES WITH YELLOW CONNECTORS ARE AIRBAG WIRES. DO NOT TOUCH THESE.
The ignition and constant wire will be in a harness of 8-12 wires, and they will be big wires (a little better than half the size of a #2 pencil)
Please put a fuse on the wire shortly after you tap it.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:05:07
Ok. I've finally done all that. I found the constant off the ignition, an acc in the dash, and ran a ground to my frame.
It still doesnt work
I bought the HU off Ebay for real cheap, so I realizt that it might just be a bad head but.......
I wanted to test for power to the hu, so i haven't hooked up the speakers
I skipped the illumination
I don't have either an antenna or and amp, so i skipped both blue wires.
Would not hooking up one or more of these things cause my eclipse 5301 not to work?
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 22:17:21
Not that I can think of.. try twisting the red and yellow wires together (positive) and touching them to the positive on the battery, and ofcourse the black to the negative.
The only other catch on an eclipse unit would be the lockout code. If it says CODE when you plug it in, you have to beg eclipse to decode it for you. You will have to send it to them.
I hope it all works out for you though.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:24:39
I did something wrong. I was messing with the car, tried to turn on the headlights, and they started going up and down (not turning on while doing this) over and over.
?????????????
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 22:33:51
lol,
you must have used the dimmer wire for a ground.
recheck the wires and that one will rest at negative and turn to positive when the lights are on.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:48:47
and so here I am.
The headlights were from me patching into the harness that has the light controls, and not plugging it back in.
but
I did the other thing you suggested. twisted red and yellow together and put a bit of extra wire on them and the ground then touched them to the battery terminals. Nada.! ZIppo! Ziltch.
HU if fried i suppose
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 22:52:18
Not to belittle you, but check the fuse on the back of the radio and when you connect the wires, sometime you have to press the powerbutton... I know you probably tried this, but I just want to make sure.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 22:54:46
that's just it, I don't have a fuse. not that i can find anyway.
It's not belittling, i did push the power button
also, when plugged in, it gets very warm only on the left side
cplkittle on 12/15/2006 23:06:13
I don't think there is anything else you can do. I would try to get my money back though.
Brother_Dave on 12/15/2006 23:07:24
thanks at least i know it's ready to go when i can afford to buy a brand new one after christmas
swez on 12/16/2006 00:09:58
Does this HU even have a reset button Kit?
Also, heat on one side of the HU does indicate you have some power flowing into the HU. However, that is just one part of the equation. The other part is having the logic circuits, display and internal amps firing up too.
If you think this unit is pretty much trashed, consider taking the thing apart and looking around fo obvious signs of electrical damage on the main boards inside. Look for charred or hot spots on the board, briken traces and the like.
Fuses... some older HU's used only external fused pigtails. Some of the newer HU's have internal fuses too. If you see one of them inside the casing, inspect and replair/replace as needed.
Good luck,
Swez
Brother_Dave on 12/16/2006 00:16:30
have no idea what a reset kit is.
I looked for fuses havent seen any.
Actually the ebay has good pics of the unit i bought.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220053215417&rd=1&rd=1
there are other wires comming off the back. 2 sets of rca and a 13 pin (well not pin....hole i guess) cable. I figured i'd ignore it
I bought the hareness at circuit city and went from there.
But thanks. i think i will tear it apart.
i'm good at that kinda stuff. Demo!!!!!!!
cplkittle on 12/16/2006 03:08:21
The very small inset button to the upper left of the DISP button looks to be a reset button.. try powering it up and use a toothpick or needle to push it.. see if that does anything.
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