Ugh, im so stupid!
Decided to take out my amp of my car, and use it in my brothers. he used to have a system, but ripped it out. there were the letover wires in the back, which i quickly identified. i put the grounded wire in, battery wire and then a small wire (always forget its name) into the 3 main amp-screw-in areas. I then added the "right" and "left" plugs into the amp and preceeded to wire the sub. i went to to on the music, and i go back, and the sub is barrrrrely doing anyhting. i can feel a slight thumb with my hand, although trebble was all the way up. i dont know what was wrong so i took it out.
i was done for the day for i took it out, wired it back up to my car. but i go to start up my car, i just prayed , please subs work. just my luck, they didnt. the amp "power" light was not even on..
Is my amp a goner? Thanks...
Replies (27)
swez on 12/10/2006 19:23:30
Check your fuses first... that might be a good start.
Swez
lilschtive on 12/10/2006 20:27:13
Fuses look completely clean.
Next step?
thanks
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/10/2006 21:09:27
Make sure you wired the proper wires to the proper terminals. I've made the same mistake before. Also make sure your amp cable is completely intact, in case you accidently cut or smashed it to were it grounded out. Make sure your geound connector is still intact as well in case it came loose.
Does your amp have digitally controlled gain/lp filter/bass boost? This will reset after you disconnect an amp with thes digatally controlled features.
swez on 12/10/2006 21:35:58
Next steps are:
1. Measure the voltage between ground and the power wire for your amp. It should read about 12.0-12.5 volts DC with the engine off or well above 13.0 volts with the engine running. If you get no voltage readings here, check the fuse under the hood next, to see if there is a voltage present at the output side of the fuse.
2. Turn on your HU and measure voltage from the Remote wire to ground. Again, this should be about 12 volts DC. If not, run a temporary jumper wire from the B+ on your amp, to the remote lug. As long as there is power at the B+ terminal, this should turn on the amplifier if the REMote circuit has pooped out on you.
Swez
If both of these are good, your amp may be fried. Have it looked at by a qualified tech
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 00:31:05
Ehh...Not sure how I will measure that DC voltage.
I didn't fry the amp in my car, it was fried in another. so i don't think that my car's fuse would be gone, right?
I don't get how it would've fried itself...i hooked up all the proper cables, and it just didn't work! Ugh!
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:40:20
I have seen amplifiers self destruct simply by removing the ground wire. When installing or uninstalling an amp, always connect the ground first, and disconnect it last.
swez on 12/11/2006 00:41:23
Quote: "Ehh...Not sure how I will measure that DC voltage."
We use a multimeter to check voltage at the lines. Don't have one? Pick one up from Wally's world for under $20.00 The digital display versions are easy to use and read. (or borrow one if you can)
Without a decent meter, proper electrical diagnostics are pretty much impossible. Every serious car audio installer needs this tool and will use it often. Consider it a "Must Have" item in your install tool kit. It's a real time saver.
Swez
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 01:08:03
Cplkittle- i did the opposite..i did battery first, and ground last. and then not sure when removing what i did..
Swez- is it worth it on this $110 amp?
swez on 12/11/2006 01:24:48
Lil, yes, a good meter will always come in handy. I use mine very often and would be lost w/o it. Frankly, if one is going to do regular installs for self and others, a meter is definitely a tool to have in your installaer kit. It's like flying blind w/o one.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/11/2006 01:59:31
I have killed a home audio reciever by moving it an inch. This was my subwoofer rec., and it was bumpin away when I moved it. It somply made one last frequency sweep, and shut off. I put that receiver through hell, funny enough, moving it an inch (LITERALLY!) was what caused the death blow. But that reciever let me get away with a lot, such as bridging all 4 channels together.
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 18:12:52
Ugh..im preety sure this amp is fried..i really dont have the $20 to spend on a meter, im going to chuck this one. Maybe ill just sell my system, and get a new one. this was my first system, just learned from it.
Swez- If you could put a price on my used JL W-08's, what would it be?
swez on 12/11/2006 18:16:50
In most cases, it's a matter of condition they are in and how bad someone else wants them. I would say 50% of new is a very good deal, but that means finding a buyer.
Swez
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 19:01:05
ok i dont think i will sell...just going to replace the amp. The exact same amp goes for $109 without shipping..
Is there a better deal, or better amp out there for a JL 10W-08 sub?
Here are the specs on mine..http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf
thanks
swez on 12/12/2006 00:48:44
How many 10W0-8 subs do you have now?
Got a link for the amp you are thinking about?
Swez
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 01:05:04
I currently have (2) Sub.
Here is the amp: http://cgi.ebay.com/1800-WATT-LEGACY-LA1870-2CH-CAR-AMP-Amplifier-NEW_W0QQitemZ5780822090QQihZ008QQcategoryZ18796QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
cplkittle on 12/12/2006 03:20:01
I apologize for any ill feelings, but this amp is crap.
avoid these brands at all costs, they will only bring you grief.
Boss, Pyle, Lanzar, Legacy, Pyramid, Lightning, Volfenhag, Soundstorm, cuspid..
That's all I can think of at this time.
Here are a few better choices:
http://cgi.ebay.com/POWERBASS-MONO-CLASS-D-2000-W-CAR-AMP-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ270067104189QQihZ017QQcategoryZ18797QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I know this one is expensive, but it is a STEAL at this price:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIAMOND-D6-1500-WATT-RMS-MONOBLOCK-SUBWOOFER-AMP-VR-NEW_W0QQitemZ130057440628QQihZ003QQcategoryZ18797QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
cplkittle on 12/12/2006 03:30:29
ok, I read over some more of the previous conversation.. This amp is perfect for 2 w0's
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ORION-WEST-COAST-CUSTOMS-500-WATT-MONO-AMP-WCC-5001_W0QQitemZ180061510266QQihZ008QQcategoryZ18797QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 10:12:44
oh cplkittle, no doubt legacy sucks! it was my first amp, had NO idea what i was doing.
Does that Orion amp work for my subs? if not better than the legacy?
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 19:37:26
as long as the orion is going to produce the same sound i wouldve gotten on the JL,s with the Legacy, if not better, i will buy it.
can someone tell me if it is?
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 19:37:26
as long as the orion is going to produce the same sound i wouldve gotten on the JL,s with the Legacy, if not better, i will buy it.
can someone tell me if it is?
lilschtive on 12/13/2006 21:19:36
So is this going to work?
thanks^^
cplkittle on 12/13/2006 22:26:16
It is not a perfect match, but I think it will definitely do better than the legacy.
swez on 12/13/2006 23:00:38
A better match for your subs, would be a 2 channel amp, bridged MONO and offering a solid 300 - 325 watts RMS @4 ohms.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=12976
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14795
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17359 (Perfect fit)
Swez
lilschtive on 12/13/2006 23:14:31
you reccomend the bottom one as the best? will the others work though? thanks a ton, those links make it a lot easier
lilschtive on 12/13/2006 23:26:37
This is suprising..i thought my subs were loud enough with the Legacy, i can't wait to hear it with one of these babies!
swez on 12/14/2006 00:40:44
Seriously Lil... would we waste yours or our time pushing junk gear that won't deliver? LOL... You ought to know that answer by now.
Yes, the other will do fine too, but the Directed amp is low cost, well spec'd and yes, your subs will get the 125 RMS/sub they crave.
Go get it boy & Merry Christmas too! SMILE
Swez
lilschtive on 12/14/2006 09:59:45
Thanks a lot Swez and everyone else who helped...i know it might be hard to answer so amny questions when im not around here to often, but believe me, i appreciate it!!!
I will "go get it" haha..once i get my christmas money! Thanks a lot guys, see you around!
-Lil
Decided to take out my amp of my car, and use it in my brothers. he used to have a system, but ripped it out. there were the letover wires in the back, which i quickly identified. i put the grounded wire in, battery wire and then a small wire (always forget its name) into the 3 main amp-screw-in areas. I then added the "right" and "left" plugs into the amp and preceeded to wire the sub. i went to to on the music, and i go back, and the sub is barrrrrely doing anyhting. i can feel a slight thumb with my hand, although trebble was all the way up. i dont know what was wrong so i took it out.
i was done for the day for i took it out, wired it back up to my car. but i go to start up my car, i just prayed , please subs work. just my luck, they didnt. the amp "power" light was not even on..
Is my amp a goner? Thanks...
Replies (27)
swez on 12/10/2006 19:23:30
Check your fuses first... that might be a good start.
Swez
lilschtive on 12/10/2006 20:27:13
Fuses look completely clean.
Next step?
thanks
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/10/2006 21:09:27
Make sure you wired the proper wires to the proper terminals. I've made the same mistake before. Also make sure your amp cable is completely intact, in case you accidently cut or smashed it to were it grounded out. Make sure your geound connector is still intact as well in case it came loose.
Does your amp have digitally controlled gain/lp filter/bass boost? This will reset after you disconnect an amp with thes digatally controlled features.
swez on 12/10/2006 21:35:58
Next steps are:
1. Measure the voltage between ground and the power wire for your amp. It should read about 12.0-12.5 volts DC with the engine off or well above 13.0 volts with the engine running. If you get no voltage readings here, check the fuse under the hood next, to see if there is a voltage present at the output side of the fuse.
2. Turn on your HU and measure voltage from the Remote wire to ground. Again, this should be about 12 volts DC. If not, run a temporary jumper wire from the B+ on your amp, to the remote lug. As long as there is power at the B+ terminal, this should turn on the amplifier if the REMote circuit has pooped out on you.
Swez
If both of these are good, your amp may be fried. Have it looked at by a qualified tech
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 00:31:05
Ehh...Not sure how I will measure that DC voltage.
I didn't fry the amp in my car, it was fried in another. so i don't think that my car's fuse would be gone, right?
I don't get how it would've fried itself...i hooked up all the proper cables, and it just didn't work! Ugh!
cplkittle on 12/11/2006 00:40:20
I have seen amplifiers self destruct simply by removing the ground wire. When installing or uninstalling an amp, always connect the ground first, and disconnect it last.
swez on 12/11/2006 00:41:23
Quote: "Ehh...Not sure how I will measure that DC voltage."
We use a multimeter to check voltage at the lines. Don't have one? Pick one up from Wally's world for under $20.00 The digital display versions are easy to use and read. (or borrow one if you can)
Without a decent meter, proper electrical diagnostics are pretty much impossible. Every serious car audio installer needs this tool and will use it often. Consider it a "Must Have" item in your install tool kit. It's a real time saver.
Swez
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 01:08:03
Cplkittle- i did the opposite..i did battery first, and ground last. and then not sure when removing what i did..
Swez- is it worth it on this $110 amp?
swez on 12/11/2006 01:24:48
Lil, yes, a good meter will always come in handy. I use mine very often and would be lost w/o it. Frankly, if one is going to do regular installs for self and others, a meter is definitely a tool to have in your installaer kit. It's like flying blind w/o one.
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 12/11/2006 01:59:31
I have killed a home audio reciever by moving it an inch. This was my subwoofer rec., and it was bumpin away when I moved it. It somply made one last frequency sweep, and shut off. I put that receiver through hell, funny enough, moving it an inch (LITERALLY!) was what caused the death blow. But that reciever let me get away with a lot, such as bridging all 4 channels together.
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 18:12:52
Ugh..im preety sure this amp is fried..i really dont have the $20 to spend on a meter, im going to chuck this one. Maybe ill just sell my system, and get a new one. this was my first system, just learned from it.
Swez- If you could put a price on my used JL W-08's, what would it be?
swez on 12/11/2006 18:16:50
In most cases, it's a matter of condition they are in and how bad someone else wants them. I would say 50% of new is a very good deal, but that means finding a buyer.
Swez
lilschtive on 12/11/2006 19:01:05
ok i dont think i will sell...just going to replace the amp. The exact same amp goes for $109 without shipping..
Is there a better deal, or better amp out there for a JL 10W-08 sub?
Here are the specs on mine..http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf
thanks
swez on 12/12/2006 00:48:44
How many 10W0-8 subs do you have now?
Got a link for the amp you are thinking about?
Swez
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 01:05:04
I currently have (2) Sub.
Here is the amp: http://cgi.ebay.com/1800-WATT-LEGACY-LA1870-2CH-CAR-AMP-Amplifier-NEW_W0QQitemZ5780822090QQihZ008QQcategoryZ18796QQrdZ1QQssPageNameZWD1VQQcmdZViewItem
cplkittle on 12/12/2006 03:20:01
I apologize for any ill feelings, but this amp is crap.
avoid these brands at all costs, they will only bring you grief.
Boss, Pyle, Lanzar, Legacy, Pyramid, Lightning, Volfenhag, Soundstorm, cuspid..
That's all I can think of at this time.
Here are a few better choices:
http://cgi.ebay.com/POWERBASS-MONO-CLASS-D-2000-W-CAR-AMP-AMPLIFIER_W0QQitemZ270067104189QQihZ017QQcategoryZ18797QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
I know this one is expensive, but it is a STEAL at this price:
http://cgi.ebay.com/DIAMOND-D6-1500-WATT-RMS-MONOBLOCK-SUBWOOFER-AMP-VR-NEW_W0QQitemZ130057440628QQihZ003QQcategoryZ18797QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
cplkittle on 12/12/2006 03:30:29
ok, I read over some more of the previous conversation.. This amp is perfect for 2 w0's
http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-ORION-WEST-COAST-CUSTOMS-500-WATT-MONO-AMP-WCC-5001_W0QQitemZ180061510266QQihZ008QQcategoryZ18797QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 10:12:44
oh cplkittle, no doubt legacy sucks! it was my first amp, had NO idea what i was doing.
Does that Orion amp work for my subs? if not better than the legacy?
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 19:37:26
as long as the orion is going to produce the same sound i wouldve gotten on the JL,s with the Legacy, if not better, i will buy it.
can someone tell me if it is?
lilschtive on 12/12/2006 19:37:26
as long as the orion is going to produce the same sound i wouldve gotten on the JL,s with the Legacy, if not better, i will buy it.
can someone tell me if it is?
lilschtive on 12/13/2006 21:19:36
So is this going to work?
thanks^^
cplkittle on 12/13/2006 22:26:16
It is not a perfect match, but I think it will definitely do better than the legacy.
swez on 12/13/2006 23:00:38
A better match for your subs, would be a 2 channel amp, bridged MONO and offering a solid 300 - 325 watts RMS @4 ohms.
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=12976
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=14795
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAudio/ProductDetail.aspx?ProductID=17359 (Perfect fit)
Swez
lilschtive on 12/13/2006 23:14:31
you reccomend the bottom one as the best? will the others work though? thanks a ton, those links make it a lot easier
lilschtive on 12/13/2006 23:26:37
This is suprising..i thought my subs were loud enough with the Legacy, i can't wait to hear it with one of these babies!
swez on 12/14/2006 00:40:44
Seriously Lil... would we waste yours or our time pushing junk gear that won't deliver? LOL... You ought to know that answer by now.
Yes, the other will do fine too, but the Directed amp is low cost, well spec'd and yes, your subs will get the 125 RMS/sub they crave.
Go get it boy & Merry Christmas too! SMILE
Swez
lilschtive on 12/14/2006 09:59:45
Thanks a lot Swez and everyone else who helped...i know it might be hard to answer so amny questions when im not around here to often, but believe me, i appreciate it!!!
I will "go get it" haha..once i get my christmas money! Thanks a lot guys, see you around!
-Lil
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