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What are your thoughts on plexi glass enclosures. I'm thinking of making a box out of MDF but possibly with a small window out of plexi glass. Maybe a 8" x 10" window in a ported box. The center of the window would be braced with a letter "S" they would be left as part of the MDF, I would remove the area around it with a scroll saw so the panel would be a solid piece of MDF with plexi on the inside of the box to cover the holes. I like the thought of this ideal but is this a stupid ideal? I know the stiffer a box the better and the window would probably be made out of 1/4" plexi because that's the thickest at my hardware store and this may flex a little bit. I think this ideal would be doomed in a sealed encloser but will it be okay in a ported? Replies (6) cplkittle on 12/2/2006 23:13:22 I work with plexi alot, 8x10 is a little large for 1/4". If you can get it down to 6x8 or 5x7, it should hold up a little better with less flex. You will want to put a light inside the box, very little light will make it in from the outside. Cut the glass so that you have at least 1 1/2" extra all around. When you drill holes in the plexi to screw it to the box, put the drill in reverse, if you are not careful the plexi will crack. The "S" is a cool idea, but don't use it for support. You can attach the plexi from the inside, inset it from the outside and dress it up with 1/4" MDF over the entire front with the window cut out, or you can dress up the edges of the plexi (sand it down to 800-1500 grit) and heat the edges gently with a small torch, or buff it with a fine polish on a cotton wheel. Read my article on plexiglass in the DIY section, and let me know if you have any more questions. ravin on 12/3/2006 14:48:51 Thanks for the info kit. You know I never thought of lighting. What type of lighting works best? Should the box be painted inside to help the effect? swez on 12/3/2006 15:27:32 Neon sticks or LED's are a good option for interior lighting of a box. As for plexiglass, thickness is often the problem and the larger the sheet, the more likely it will flex and leak air. Lexan is a good choice if you can find a good source for it. A 3/8" - 1/2" thick piece will not flex much and can be flush mounted very well with a good router and jig setup. One has to route out a recess in the wood and then it can be screwed and glued or sealed nicely to look very professional too. Just go look at some prefab boxes that use the viewing window idea, (Mostly Bandpass) and see if you can figure out how it was done and copy the idea. Swez ttocs on 12/3/2006 16:52:04 also do not forget that you will have to finish the inside of the box that the window looks into. cplkittle on 12/4/2006 02:20:09 I have painted the inside, carpeted the inside, and used blacklights with neon colored carpet, neon paint.. it is all up to you and what effect you are looking for. If you have a silver or aluminum cone speaker, cover the interior with black carpet and use a hyperbright LED or two for example. the LEDs will reflect off the speaker only. I have used strobes also. If your sub has alot of excursion, this looks pretty cool, but can be distracting while driving. It is important to make the hole big enough first of all to get the speaker in, and to replace it if necessary. Also, the vibrations can knock out the lights out or loose. ravin on 12/4/2006 06:20:28 Thanks for all the input guys. I have some options to explore and some decisions to make. Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved |