So the ghetto hoopty bucket has developed a new problem, when everything in the car is off, all the lights on the Alpine head unit except the 4 main buttons glow lightly, and the amp is still powered on. This has drained my battery once now, so it's time to fix this.
FYI: My head unit has both the switched and constant wires wired together to the constant power out, so as I can run my stereo without turning on the car.
Please.....help a brotha out........
Replies (11)
swez on 11/1/2006 22:14:27
FYI: My head unit has both the switched and constant wires wired together to the constant power out, so as I can run my stereo without turning on the car.
That's the main culprit bro. The Yellow wire is constant power only and is often used for memory retention and sometimes powers the internal amps too.
The Red wire is a "switched" wire that only works when the key is in ACC/IGN positions. The Red wire controls On/Off features in the HU and when the key is out of ignition, the HU powers down and will not turn on remote amps.
In most cases, you can turn off the HU manually when wired as mentioned and that should shut off everything. (CD Player, tuner, Rem and all face panel displays and such)
But, if there is any power draw after the HU is shut off, somethings not right here. You may be getting some parasitic drain current from another line (ILL?) and the HU is not shutting off correctly.
Say more on the HU make/model and what wires are hooked up to where in the harness. Did you use a conversion harness here? (Factory to Aftermarket wiring kit?)
I sure hope so as some GM harnesses have other powered features that do not power off immediately when key is removed. (Radio plays until you open a door circuits and such) That could mean a stuck relay and will cause the HU to draw power when it should not.
Comments?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/2/2006 00:49:17
Totally forgot that it only does this in the cold Colo weather! Funny enough, but it only does it when really cold. My bad on that!
The head unit ia an Alpine CDA 9807. I always take the face off at night to make sure I don't run in, turn the deck on in frezzing temps. and cracking the face, plus for the whole purpose of having a detachable face as well.
Even with the face detached the amp wont shut off. It's sitting out there, drawing power right now........
Factory to aftermarket harness is used here. It had a junker Sony Am/FM cassette in it when I got it.
My buddy says this could be caused by an innefficeint ground, and it's not discharging all the enegry it is recieving. This sounds bunk to me, but he does sell stereos for a living, I only hook them up on the side. Figured I'd run this theory by you.
If this is the case, I'll hook up the head unit with some amp cable, power and ground. I have been planning on doing this anyway, I'll just put a rush on it.
No fancy circuitry here on the doors, car is too ghetto. As a matter of fact, I have no inside handles on the doors.........Thats why I got me a master's degree in bucketeering.
Thanks for the help,
Shootuh
swez on 11/2/2006 09:14:29
Try disconnecting the RCA's at the amp and see if the amp now shuts off. If yes, reground the HU to the fire wall, floor pan or a known good ground behind the HU. (the system is not properly grounded and there's just enough potential voltage to create a drain)
If no, get out your voltmeter and probe the stock & aftermarket harnesses to find the wire that is triggering your HU to remain partially ON when the face plate is removed. (You'll need to move that RED wire to a switched circuit) Now, this HU gets constant power from the YELLOW/RED wires and that is not a good idea.
Here's the manual for that HU. The wiring diagrams start on page 38. Note the recommended HU ground on page 37 too. There's a reason for this, VS using the harness based ground.
Finally, if your using external amps for everything, shut off the internal amps in the HU. That is menu driven and explained on page 15.
swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/3/2006 13:46:48
Your link for the instruction manualisn't displayed, but I fixed the problem. The remote wire and batt cable treminals bere being connected by a very tiny strand of coppre touching them together. Should of checked for that first.........
swez on 11/3/2006 23:59:53
Errr, Uhhmmm, D'oh... forgot the link for that manual:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/500/500CDA9805.PDF
Swez SMILE
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/4/2006 05:03:00
Sweet, thanks man! Found my lost remote today too! Victory is mine!!
swez on 11/4/2006 12:57:51
There ya go... and all is well in the world too huh?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/4/2006 19:11:21
Except my cat ran away......
swez on 11/5/2006 10:30:15
When the cat get hungry, cold or lonely enough, it will probably meander back home again.
Our old cat got locked in a neighbor's garage for the weekend. As soon as he got out, he came home and promptly got spoiled rotten.
Kitty, call home soon,
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/6/2006 03:36:23
He's been gone over a week now, It realy sucks. Little bastard
swez on 11/6/2006 09:50:50
Now we know why the cat ran away... LOL
Swez
FYI: My head unit has both the switched and constant wires wired together to the constant power out, so as I can run my stereo without turning on the car.
Please.....help a brotha out........
Replies (11)
swez on 11/1/2006 22:14:27
FYI: My head unit has both the switched and constant wires wired together to the constant power out, so as I can run my stereo without turning on the car.
That's the main culprit bro. The Yellow wire is constant power only and is often used for memory retention and sometimes powers the internal amps too.
The Red wire is a "switched" wire that only works when the key is in ACC/IGN positions. The Red wire controls On/Off features in the HU and when the key is out of ignition, the HU powers down and will not turn on remote amps.
In most cases, you can turn off the HU manually when wired as mentioned and that should shut off everything. (CD Player, tuner, Rem and all face panel displays and such)
But, if there is any power draw after the HU is shut off, somethings not right here. You may be getting some parasitic drain current from another line (ILL?) and the HU is not shutting off correctly.
Say more on the HU make/model and what wires are hooked up to where in the harness. Did you use a conversion harness here? (Factory to Aftermarket wiring kit?)
I sure hope so as some GM harnesses have other powered features that do not power off immediately when key is removed. (Radio plays until you open a door circuits and such) That could mean a stuck relay and will cause the HU to draw power when it should not.
Comments?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/2/2006 00:49:17
Totally forgot that it only does this in the cold Colo weather! Funny enough, but it only does it when really cold. My bad on that!
The head unit ia an Alpine CDA 9807. I always take the face off at night to make sure I don't run in, turn the deck on in frezzing temps. and cracking the face, plus for the whole purpose of having a detachable face as well.
Even with the face detached the amp wont shut off. It's sitting out there, drawing power right now........
Factory to aftermarket harness is used here. It had a junker Sony Am/FM cassette in it when I got it.
My buddy says this could be caused by an innefficeint ground, and it's not discharging all the enegry it is recieving. This sounds bunk to me, but he does sell stereos for a living, I only hook them up on the side. Figured I'd run this theory by you.
If this is the case, I'll hook up the head unit with some amp cable, power and ground. I have been planning on doing this anyway, I'll just put a rush on it.
No fancy circuitry here on the doors, car is too ghetto. As a matter of fact, I have no inside handles on the doors.........Thats why I got me a master's degree in bucketeering.
Thanks for the help,
Shootuh
swez on 11/2/2006 09:14:29
Try disconnecting the RCA's at the amp and see if the amp now shuts off. If yes, reground the HU to the fire wall, floor pan or a known good ground behind the HU. (the system is not properly grounded and there's just enough potential voltage to create a drain)
If no, get out your voltmeter and probe the stock & aftermarket harnesses to find the wire that is triggering your HU to remain partially ON when the face plate is removed. (You'll need to move that RED wire to a switched circuit) Now, this HU gets constant power from the YELLOW/RED wires and that is not a good idea.
Here's the manual for that HU. The wiring diagrams start on page 38. Note the recommended HU ground on page 37 too. There's a reason for this, VS using the harness based ground.
Finally, if your using external amps for everything, shut off the internal amps in the HU. That is menu driven and explained on page 15.
swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/3/2006 13:46:48
Your link for the instruction manualisn't displayed, but I fixed the problem. The remote wire and batt cable treminals bere being connected by a very tiny strand of coppre touching them together. Should of checked for that first.........
swez on 11/3/2006 23:59:53
Errr, Uhhmmm, D'oh... forgot the link for that manual:
http://akamaipix.crutchfield.com/Manuals/500/500CDA9805.PDF
Swez SMILE
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/4/2006 05:03:00
Sweet, thanks man! Found my lost remote today too! Victory is mine!!
swez on 11/4/2006 12:57:51
There ya go... and all is well in the world too huh?
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/4/2006 19:11:21
Except my cat ran away......
swez on 11/5/2006 10:30:15
When the cat get hungry, cold or lonely enough, it will probably meander back home again.
Our old cat got locked in a neighbor's garage for the weekend. As soon as he got out, he came home and promptly got spoiled rotten.
Kitty, call home soon,
Swez
ShootuhMcBustaCap on 11/6/2006 03:36:23
He's been gone over a week now, It realy sucks. Little bastard
swez on 11/6/2006 09:50:50
Now we know why the cat ran away... LOL
Swez
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