I am looking for a 5.25 speaker to fit in my 1999 gran prix front door. I also need a amp but have 150 to spend on both . I have looked at price grabber and found a bunch of speakers that seem affordable , but I do not know what it sounds like . I was also looking at Alpine MRP-F200 4 3/2 Channel V-Power Series for 125, so that does not leave much to buy for a speaker. I have kenwood 6x9 speakers in the back so I want a 4 channel amp
Replies (33)
compvr15s on 08/10/2003 00:51:18
have you thought about audiobahn. i think they are a great product for thier price, here is a component set off ebay for 50 dollars, you may want to save a lil more so you can spend a lil more, but a component set is the way to go. can also replace the tweeters that come on the car. my buddy has a 99 grand prix gt and it has the speakers and the tweets in the door? is your the same way? if so id recommend this product. o have the 61/2s of these and they are just running of my deck and they sound really good, if you amp them they will sound really good. just check around e-bay more, im sure you will find something you like. here is the link if you want to look at these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3039838901&category=32818
carfreak on 08/10/2003 09:50:37
Thanks I might get those they look great but how do they sound. as far as my GP is the SE so it dose not have the tweeters in the door (yet hehe) Does the bass hit with these or does it sound funny , I have seen a lot of 5.25s that the bass will just sound bad. I am not looking for huge bass but I do not want something that sounds like a fart every time the bass hits.
carfreak on 08/10/2003 10:47:39
How about the amp Is that a good amp to get or should I buy something else
carfreak on 08/10/2003 20:43:28
Ok I bought the componet system you sugested , now the wife does not want any holes in the car any Ideas on how to mount the tweeters . It is a 99 gran prix and they make a Qform for it but it is pricy and cant afford the ones I saw
Swez on 08/10/2003 21:28:59
These tweeters are surface mountable, so you can just use a small screw or 2 sided tape to hold them in place.
Also note one thing about Bahn speakers... the rate the power handling in RMS watts, but this is for the pair. So a 50 - 60 watt/channel (RMS) amp is good.
Here's a very good amp to run all your interior speakers... US Acoustics: USX-4065
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/us_acoustics.html
Nice little amp, with plenty of power.
Swez
carfreak on 08/10/2003 22:21:05
Yea I saw that on one other post and thats the amp I am getting :-) . So you can use 2 sided tape to mount those . That will work dont like the Idea of the wires showing but if I do it right mabey it won't be much showing if any at all . Thanks for your help ;-)
carfreak on 08/10/2003 22:24:21
Now I am looking for some good subs . I prefer 12s but 10s would work too. Right now I am on a buget and just looking. I would also need a good amp but again I have no ideas as I am just looking. I am hoping I can get one thing every 2 weeks or so.
I do not know what my alt pulls yet but am going to call a parts store tomorrow. My prices that are affordable to me are about 120 bucks. I would like to get a pair of subs for that , but if you know of one that sounds good for the price I will concider it .
The type of bass I like is the kind where you have trouble breathing and you feel your lungs vibrating . GRIN
Let me know of your ideas
compvr15s on 08/10/2003 23:18:20
as long as you use the crossovers on your speakers and dont over power them i think you will be happy, and will notice a big increase over the stock speakers, especially with an amp. as for the tweeters i would not recommend mounting them on the doors. i had my tweeters in the arm rests on my doors and they didnt sound right at all. couldnt even tell they were working, but now with them in the dash where the 4x6 plates were they really make a difference.so maybe you can run them by the pillars on the dash and mount them there, the wires should be able to be hid under the molding.i myself like kicker comp vrs. they sound good and they are affordable, plus i have not had one problem with them, if you look on ebay just type in comp vr and it will bring up a bunch, you can get 2 12s for 110 plus shipping, really good deal cuz i think they retail at 149 for one. but first off you have to get a good sub amp, and try to go with class d. highly efficient and can handle 2 ohm load. i have seen many people on here talk bout the jbl600.1.. i myself have 2 kicker kx600.1's they are probably not the greatest amps out there but im happy with the performance, kicker also makes a 400.1. the 400.1 will run them 2 12's fairly well, giving about 200 watts to each sub, they are 400 rms. the 600 will give 300 to each as long as you wire the subs to give the amp a 2 ohm load. if ya go with the jbl 600.1 it will handle 1 or 2 ohm loads, and can be had for probably 250 orso shipping included, that amp will probably be better since it can handle 1 ohms loads. sorry to blab on but im tryin to give you the best possible info that i can. as for the chest pounding bass id probably go with the a dual sub box with a single center port. not the round ports but the slot ports.something like this box
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3040375377&category=14945
wait for others to respond on this before you make any actions. they may be able to recommend different typs of subs, but im sure they will tell ya to go with the jbl amp.
Swez on 08/11/2003 00:08:21
Yeah, I'd go with that one... a pair of Comp Vr's (10 or 12) depending on the space you have for the enclosure and a JBL 600.1 is a very good match.
The JBL is a bit under rated and can do close to 700 watts RMS @ 1 or 2 ohms for about $250.00 shipped.
About your new tweeters, feel free to experiment with locations initially to determine which lications sound best to you. The hide your wires as best you can and mount with 2 sided tape while testing location. A little lighter fluid wil remove the glue residues as you move things around.
Swez
carfreak on 08/11/2003 06:52:39
I will take your avice here thanks Now I just need the money GRIN
I was planning to mount them on the pillar if they sound good .
Swez on 08/11/2003 12:16:32
Feel free to experiment... you never know what you'll get until you do.
TIP: Most Tweeter installs recommend aiming the tweeters up toward the head linere wher most dome lights are. This gives a good on axis field for listening in the driver and passenger seats.
Again, feel free to experiment.
Keep us posted on your progress as you will need additional help later as you install the amps and subs. I suggest #4 gage (min) wire from the battery, back to the amps and a #4 ground to the JBL and #8 for the USX 4 channel.
Good luck,
Swez
carfreak on 08/11/2003 18:05:36
I am pretty sure I can wire it all up easy nuff . Just have to get a distrubution block , should I use one for the ground too or just use #8 to the same place? Also how do I do the turn on right? is the a distrbutution block for that or what. I know if you get too many amps you might get a signal processer but I think thats just cross over right?? heck I do not know any ideas here ??
Ohh my alt puts out 105amps
Swez on 08/11/2003 18:56:04
Yes, a D-block for power wire is needed to do this job well. Not required for grounds on each amp. Just run grounding wires from each amp to a common location which is bare metal to body, frame, floor pan etc. Avoid seat bolts as they are often painted and not always the best ground. See FAQ section on grounding for details... but if using 2 large amps, use a 1/4" nut/bolt and lock washers for best results.
How to tunn on the amps? If you have a factory HU, you'll have to make up a REMote power feed line to turn on the amps. Can discuss this more in a future post.
If you have an Aftermarket HU, these usually come with REM power feeds. Just have to run an extension wire from the HU, back to the REM lug on each amp. When the HU is switched on, so are the amps.
Finally, a 105A ALT should work out fine. Just be sure to fuse your power line close to the battery. Something on the order of 80-100A fuse should be adequate. www.knukonceptz.com offers quality electrical parts and wire sets at very reasonable prices. They have fuses, holders, RCA lines, D-blocks and a few other cool toys as well.
Swez
carfreak on 08/11/2003 20:25:00
Ok so can I just wire the 2 amp turn ons togther and then to the HU remote line? It is a aftermarket HU .
compvr15s on 08/12/2003 03:10:20
yea you can do that, on mine i just ran the remote to one amp and then used a patch cable and just connected it to the lug on the other amp. good luck with everything hope we have helped
Swez on 08/12/2003 07:44:44
Yep, that will work! The onlky other things to consisder later, is a larger ALT & BAT down the road. These amps draw close to 90 amps of current when you crank them hard.
A 105 ALT will be worked pretty hard, so a larger ALT & BAT, wires will be needed as you build this system as noted. If a GM vehicle, no problem as there are several ALTs that fit in the same cage, but have larger current output. They have 105, 108, 120 and perhaps a 140A version as well. A few calls to your local auto parts stores will give you these oprions and you can buy a rebuilt ALT for much less than new. Just take the old one in as a core exchange and get a higher output version that matches your fit, form and funtion.
Swez
carfreak on 08/12/2003 20:57:34
Yes I have thought about upgraiding the batt and alt. I read on here that you can upgraide the wire from the alt to the batt , is that easy to do ? What wire to I use to do it? I have also read that It may be nessisary too ground the motor is that something I need to worry about?
Ohh and will that box still produce good chest pounding bass in the trunk?? thats where It will be , I do not know if that will tame the bass down or not? Sorry for the dumb questions but I want to get this right. :-) GRIN
Swez on 08/12/2003 21:43:15
Upgrading the ALT/BAT and wires are not too hard. A 120A ALT, 800 CCA BAT and #4 gage wires fro AL/BAT & BAT/GND should do it. This is something you can buy at better autoparts stores or make yourself.
As for that enclosure mentioned... not sure what the port tuning is for the subs you are choosing. The box is on the smaller side of the spec for a good punchy bass, but not knowing the tuning frequency of the box... impossible to tell if that is a best fit. (the hype in the ad is more words than hard facts)
See this for what I mean: http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/subzone_kicker_sub_boxes.html
HV-122VR Dual 12" Vented 3/4" MDF Box for Kicker Comp VR's w/ 1.5" Baffle - 1.9cf per sub
15 1/2"h x 18 1/4"d x 34"w $159.99 This is a quality box design for Comp VR's!!! The other seems more generic in nature. Cheaper yes... but give you gut punching bass... not sure as to many details are missing.
Can you make your own enclosure per Kicker specs? (from .pdf file) If yes, this net great results and less cost overall.
http://www.kicker.com/images/manuals/03CompVRManual.pdf
Swez
Figure about $60.00 in materials and supplies.
carfreak on 08/13/2003 20:31:28
I do not think I can build a box , It all sounds greek to me , and the measurements make no sence. I was hoping to get a box cheaper than that. But .... If it will give me what I want then I guess I will have to save more money up. :-( I do not think my wife Will let me spend that much more. I need a second job.
I went all over the net and found one for 143.95 But I am not sure what shipping will cost. Can someone explain how to build a vented enclosure to the specs listed at the above site. I do not get how to figure the volume and then the port I just do not get it. Is there a good site for this? I am lost in building a box.
Tried once and got something more for 18s than for 12s. It was huge
Swez on 08/13/2003 21:27:28
I think Kicker has a good reference section for enclosure building and really, it is much cheaper to build than buy. Do you have any buddies that have wood working experience and make sense of a layout drawing?
Let me look a moment... BRB...
Yeah, it's there: http://www.kicker.com/images/manuals/03CompVRManual.pdf
If you feel a ported box is out of your comfort zone, use a sealed enclosure instead. You can use the compact box for punchy bass or the maximum box for deep low bass.. or anything in between. Just map every dimensional panel noted on grid paper and scale the drawing so that the panels fit.
Some guys like to build cardboard models and test them for fit and such.
carfreak on 08/13/2003 22:25:16
cardboard I can do ...lol
I just want to build a box that has the deep chest pounding bass that I like.
The part that I do not understand is the 2.25 cubic volume. I need exact measurements to build something. How do you figure Internal volume and then take away the speaker and port and braces and be anywhere exact .. First I guess how do you get internal volume. Measure around the outside and subtract the 3/4 mdf? aaaaaaaaaaaaaa too much math .I have been out of high school for 10 years . Is there a easy way to get your internal volume ? I am sure I am makeing more of this than there is to it but I tried once and failed badly with box making .
I have seen the calulators on some web sites but I just do not get what have of the stuff is .
Swez on 08/14/2003 08:46:31
The box does not have to be perfect in order to obtain good bass. You have some leeway with Kicker subs which like larger boxes anyway. A figure of +/-10% will produce a good box, based on specs used.
Cubic foot is nothing more than H" x D" x W" = cf
You know, to keep this box compact and simple, I recommend a sealed enclosure for your first attempt. The specs for a compact sealed enclosure recommended by Kicker is 1.0 cf per sub. This will produce high impact (punchy bass) but great the low frequency extension. (deep bass)
What I suggest, consider a sealed enclosure of 1.50 cf per sub as this box will net better low end bass. To get a physical size for this box, lets run some numbers.
1.50 cf per sub Calculatons: 3.0 cf total (internally)
Height: 16.0" external (16.0" internal)
Width: 34.0" external (32.5" internal)
Depth: 11.5" external (10.0" internal)
Divider board: 14.5" H x 10.0" D x 0.75 T = (109.0 sq. in.)
The math:
16.0 x 32.5 x 10 = 5, 200 ci - 109.0 = 5,091 ci/1728 = 2.95 cf internal which nets a 1.47 cf/sub enclosure
That's the basics and if you follow these dimensions, this is what you'll get.
Front/rear panel cut list: 16.0 H x 34.0" W
Top & Bottom panels: 10.0" x 32.5" W
Side panels: 14.5" H x 10.0" D
Divider panel: 14.5" x 10.0"
Add ~1.0-1.5 lbs of polyfill to each chamber for rear bass wave control.
Finally, make a cardboard model with the external dimensions noted and see how well the model fits. Better yet, a sheet of foam backer board used in housing insulation of 3/4" . Just use duct tape and trim nails or drywall screws (1.5" long) to assemble the box. You can even mount your subs into this box... this will give a rough idea of how the subs will perform in a real box later.
You can cut the foam backer with a sharp razor knife and a 36" yard stick. This will build your confidence and help you see how all this fits together. Once you get all the dimensional cuts rit and they all fit properly, then you'll have a template to have your wood cut for the real enclosure.
TIP: If you do not have power tools to cut wood panels, Home Depot will cut the panels for you at a small charge. (~ $0.50/cut) The only other cuts to make are circles for the sub cutouts. A router or RotoZip tool with compass cutting jiz will make this easy... but if you are careful with a jig saw (saber saw), the holes will turm out ... but not as clean a circle as other tools.
Do you think this is possible for you to do? I think you can do it with a little help from a buddy with wood working tools and skills.
Swez
carfreak on 08/14/2003 17:27:09
I can do it I was hoping to go with a ported box but I can do this. I do not have a skill saw but I can borrow my nextdoor neighbors. I have a jigsaw and You are right a round hole is not easy but with some sanding It will work .Well I will give your directions a shot. MDF is cheap here too so It will not cost that much to do it bout 20-30 dollars for the mdf. I have plunty of drywall screws . I will give people a tip If they are going to build a box predrill your holes in MDF if it is possable. that way the screw will not break the mdf . Found that out on the last box I butcherd
carfreak on 08/15/2003 22:23:45
Well bad news . Someone stole some of my checks and wrote some and they went through the bank . So now If the bank dose not correct the problem then I will Not be able to get any thing but the 5.25 and the amp to go with it . I have to use the money to pay what was taken from me . The messed up thing is it pretty much has to be someone I know and thought was a freind
compvr15s on 08/15/2003 22:57:04
man that sux, sorry to hear that, hope ya get it straightened out, or find out who did it, damn people anyway
Swez on 08/15/2003 23:26:55
Man... I feel bad for you and I curse the poor fool who ripped you off.... he will have a miserable way to go for doing so!
Swez
carfreak on 08/15/2003 23:57:51
Yea It could be my brother-inlaw or a guy I just hooked up his sterieo. Or my neighbor across the street. But I am not going to confront anyone I will let the cops do that when they find out who took it but now I have to try to be nice to these people not knowing who did it .
carfreak on 08/16/2003 00:00:19
I just hope I am wrong about these people
Swez on 08/16/2003 06:16:59
Get to the bank as soon as you can and have them stop payments on any checks that you suspect are missing. If they show up at the bank, the bank will notify you of who used the checks as they usually have to get a driver's lic., or some form of ID to cash larger checks.
I hope you can get this one resolved ASAP.
Swez
carfreak on 08/16/2003 08:46:08
well I put my DL # on the check so I do not know if that will help.
But most places have to run it in a stamper that stamps date time and Reg# so If they keep useing them they will get busted.
I almost hope it is my mistake and I am a duma$$ then have one of the people that I listed to have done it . My bank is not open today either so I have to wait till monday and have no money all weekend due to I am afraid that checks will bounce .
Swez on 08/16/2003 17:00:36
I feel for you... tip... never sign a check until you are ready to use it. Also, if you have the Lic # on it already, who ever uses the check will either have to forge your name or have false ID with your DL number on same or the bank should not accept it.
The bank will also check funds before they release the check for cashing on larger amounts. This buys you 2-3 banking days to stop payment via bank.
On Monday, go down to your branch and talk with one of the Supervisors and explain the details. You may have to close the account and start new.... that would be the safest thing to do.
Swez
PS Either way, if you stop payments on these lost checks, the bank may charge a small fee for that... but is negotiable when talking face to face with a helpful Manager. Especially if you have been a long time customer and a regular flow of cash into that account.
Hang in there!
carfreak on 08/16/2003 17:19:19
well i found the checks and it was my error i forgot to write a check in the back so as it was not stole i am a dumba$$ and still will not be able to buy the subs and amp as I now have a leaky roof to fix with what money I have left after my mistake. Thank god I never accused anyone for stealing it . I felt bad nuff thinking they did it to begin with . I will get my subs and amp but It wil be about 4 to 5 months down the road. MAD
Swez on 08/18/2003 14:27:35
Glad you found the check(s)....
Swez
Replies (33)
compvr15s on 08/10/2003 00:51:18
have you thought about audiobahn. i think they are a great product for thier price, here is a component set off ebay for 50 dollars, you may want to save a lil more so you can spend a lil more, but a component set is the way to go. can also replace the tweeters that come on the car. my buddy has a 99 grand prix gt and it has the speakers and the tweets in the door? is your the same way? if so id recommend this product. o have the 61/2s of these and they are just running of my deck and they sound really good, if you amp them they will sound really good. just check around e-bay more, im sure you will find something you like. here is the link if you want to look at these http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3039838901&category=32818
carfreak on 08/10/2003 09:50:37
Thanks I might get those they look great but how do they sound. as far as my GP is the SE so it dose not have the tweeters in the door (yet hehe) Does the bass hit with these or does it sound funny , I have seen a lot of 5.25s that the bass will just sound bad. I am not looking for huge bass but I do not want something that sounds like a fart every time the bass hits.
carfreak on 08/10/2003 10:47:39
How about the amp Is that a good amp to get or should I buy something else
carfreak on 08/10/2003 20:43:28
Ok I bought the componet system you sugested , now the wife does not want any holes in the car any Ideas on how to mount the tweeters . It is a 99 gran prix and they make a Qform for it but it is pricy and cant afford the ones I saw
Swez on 08/10/2003 21:28:59
These tweeters are surface mountable, so you can just use a small screw or 2 sided tape to hold them in place.
Also note one thing about Bahn speakers... the rate the power handling in RMS watts, but this is for the pair. So a 50 - 60 watt/channel (RMS) amp is good.
Here's a very good amp to run all your interior speakers... US Acoustics: USX-4065
http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/us_acoustics.html
Nice little amp, with plenty of power.
Swez
carfreak on 08/10/2003 22:21:05
Yea I saw that on one other post and thats the amp I am getting :-) . So you can use 2 sided tape to mount those . That will work dont like the Idea of the wires showing but if I do it right mabey it won't be much showing if any at all . Thanks for your help ;-)
carfreak on 08/10/2003 22:24:21
Now I am looking for some good subs . I prefer 12s but 10s would work too. Right now I am on a buget and just looking. I would also need a good amp but again I have no ideas as I am just looking. I am hoping I can get one thing every 2 weeks or so.
I do not know what my alt pulls yet but am going to call a parts store tomorrow. My prices that are affordable to me are about 120 bucks. I would like to get a pair of subs for that , but if you know of one that sounds good for the price I will concider it .
The type of bass I like is the kind where you have trouble breathing and you feel your lungs vibrating . GRIN
Let me know of your ideas
compvr15s on 08/10/2003 23:18:20
as long as you use the crossovers on your speakers and dont over power them i think you will be happy, and will notice a big increase over the stock speakers, especially with an amp. as for the tweeters i would not recommend mounting them on the doors. i had my tweeters in the arm rests on my doors and they didnt sound right at all. couldnt even tell they were working, but now with them in the dash where the 4x6 plates were they really make a difference.so maybe you can run them by the pillars on the dash and mount them there, the wires should be able to be hid under the molding.i myself like kicker comp vrs. they sound good and they are affordable, plus i have not had one problem with them, if you look on ebay just type in comp vr and it will bring up a bunch, you can get 2 12s for 110 plus shipping, really good deal cuz i think they retail at 149 for one. but first off you have to get a good sub amp, and try to go with class d. highly efficient and can handle 2 ohm load. i have seen many people on here talk bout the jbl600.1.. i myself have 2 kicker kx600.1's they are probably not the greatest amps out there but im happy with the performance, kicker also makes a 400.1. the 400.1 will run them 2 12's fairly well, giving about 200 watts to each sub, they are 400 rms. the 600 will give 300 to each as long as you wire the subs to give the amp a 2 ohm load. if ya go with the jbl 600.1 it will handle 1 or 2 ohm loads, and can be had for probably 250 orso shipping included, that amp will probably be better since it can handle 1 ohms loads. sorry to blab on but im tryin to give you the best possible info that i can. as for the chest pounding bass id probably go with the a dual sub box with a single center port. not the round ports but the slot ports.something like this box
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3040375377&category=14945
wait for others to respond on this before you make any actions. they may be able to recommend different typs of subs, but im sure they will tell ya to go with the jbl amp.
Swez on 08/11/2003 00:08:21
Yeah, I'd go with that one... a pair of Comp Vr's (10 or 12) depending on the space you have for the enclosure and a JBL 600.1 is a very good match.
The JBL is a bit under rated and can do close to 700 watts RMS @ 1 or 2 ohms for about $250.00 shipped.
About your new tweeters, feel free to experiment with locations initially to determine which lications sound best to you. The hide your wires as best you can and mount with 2 sided tape while testing location. A little lighter fluid wil remove the glue residues as you move things around.
Swez
carfreak on 08/11/2003 06:52:39
I will take your avice here thanks Now I just need the money GRIN
I was planning to mount them on the pillar if they sound good .
Swez on 08/11/2003 12:16:32
Feel free to experiment... you never know what you'll get until you do.
TIP: Most Tweeter installs recommend aiming the tweeters up toward the head linere wher most dome lights are. This gives a good on axis field for listening in the driver and passenger seats.
Again, feel free to experiment.
Keep us posted on your progress as you will need additional help later as you install the amps and subs. I suggest #4 gage (min) wire from the battery, back to the amps and a #4 ground to the JBL and #8 for the USX 4 channel.
Good luck,
Swez
carfreak on 08/11/2003 18:05:36
I am pretty sure I can wire it all up easy nuff . Just have to get a distrubution block , should I use one for the ground too or just use #8 to the same place? Also how do I do the turn on right? is the a distrbutution block for that or what. I know if you get too many amps you might get a signal processer but I think thats just cross over right?? heck I do not know any ideas here ??
Ohh my alt puts out 105amps
Swez on 08/11/2003 18:56:04
Yes, a D-block for power wire is needed to do this job well. Not required for grounds on each amp. Just run grounding wires from each amp to a common location which is bare metal to body, frame, floor pan etc. Avoid seat bolts as they are often painted and not always the best ground. See FAQ section on grounding for details... but if using 2 large amps, use a 1/4" nut/bolt and lock washers for best results.
How to tunn on the amps? If you have a factory HU, you'll have to make up a REMote power feed line to turn on the amps. Can discuss this more in a future post.
If you have an Aftermarket HU, these usually come with REM power feeds. Just have to run an extension wire from the HU, back to the REM lug on each amp. When the HU is switched on, so are the amps.
Finally, a 105A ALT should work out fine. Just be sure to fuse your power line close to the battery. Something on the order of 80-100A fuse should be adequate. www.knukonceptz.com offers quality electrical parts and wire sets at very reasonable prices. They have fuses, holders, RCA lines, D-blocks and a few other cool toys as well.
Swez
carfreak on 08/11/2003 20:25:00
Ok so can I just wire the 2 amp turn ons togther and then to the HU remote line? It is a aftermarket HU .
compvr15s on 08/12/2003 03:10:20
yea you can do that, on mine i just ran the remote to one amp and then used a patch cable and just connected it to the lug on the other amp. good luck with everything hope we have helped
Swez on 08/12/2003 07:44:44
Yep, that will work! The onlky other things to consisder later, is a larger ALT & BAT down the road. These amps draw close to 90 amps of current when you crank them hard.
A 105 ALT will be worked pretty hard, so a larger ALT & BAT, wires will be needed as you build this system as noted. If a GM vehicle, no problem as there are several ALTs that fit in the same cage, but have larger current output. They have 105, 108, 120 and perhaps a 140A version as well. A few calls to your local auto parts stores will give you these oprions and you can buy a rebuilt ALT for much less than new. Just take the old one in as a core exchange and get a higher output version that matches your fit, form and funtion.
Swez
carfreak on 08/12/2003 20:57:34
Yes I have thought about upgraiding the batt and alt. I read on here that you can upgraide the wire from the alt to the batt , is that easy to do ? What wire to I use to do it? I have also read that It may be nessisary too ground the motor is that something I need to worry about?
Ohh and will that box still produce good chest pounding bass in the trunk?? thats where It will be , I do not know if that will tame the bass down or not? Sorry for the dumb questions but I want to get this right. :-) GRIN
Swez on 08/12/2003 21:43:15
Upgrading the ALT/BAT and wires are not too hard. A 120A ALT, 800 CCA BAT and #4 gage wires fro AL/BAT & BAT/GND should do it. This is something you can buy at better autoparts stores or make yourself.
As for that enclosure mentioned... not sure what the port tuning is for the subs you are choosing. The box is on the smaller side of the spec for a good punchy bass, but not knowing the tuning frequency of the box... impossible to tell if that is a best fit. (the hype in the ad is more words than hard facts)
See this for what I mean: http://www.thezeb.com/caraudio/subzone_kicker_sub_boxes.html
HV-122VR Dual 12" Vented 3/4" MDF Box for Kicker Comp VR's w/ 1.5" Baffle - 1.9cf per sub
15 1/2"h x 18 1/4"d x 34"w $159.99 This is a quality box design for Comp VR's!!! The other seems more generic in nature. Cheaper yes... but give you gut punching bass... not sure as to many details are missing.
Can you make your own enclosure per Kicker specs? (from .pdf file) If yes, this net great results and less cost overall.
http://www.kicker.com/images/manuals/03CompVRManual.pdf
Swez
Figure about $60.00 in materials and supplies.
carfreak on 08/13/2003 20:31:28
I do not think I can build a box , It all sounds greek to me , and the measurements make no sence. I was hoping to get a box cheaper than that. But .... If it will give me what I want then I guess I will have to save more money up. :-( I do not think my wife Will let me spend that much more. I need a second job.
I went all over the net and found one for 143.95 But I am not sure what shipping will cost. Can someone explain how to build a vented enclosure to the specs listed at the above site. I do not get how to figure the volume and then the port I just do not get it. Is there a good site for this? I am lost in building a box.
Tried once and got something more for 18s than for 12s. It was huge
Swez on 08/13/2003 21:27:28
I think Kicker has a good reference section for enclosure building and really, it is much cheaper to build than buy. Do you have any buddies that have wood working experience and make sense of a layout drawing?
Let me look a moment... BRB...
Yeah, it's there: http://www.kicker.com/images/manuals/03CompVRManual.pdf
If you feel a ported box is out of your comfort zone, use a sealed enclosure instead. You can use the compact box for punchy bass or the maximum box for deep low bass.. or anything in between. Just map every dimensional panel noted on grid paper and scale the drawing so that the panels fit.
Some guys like to build cardboard models and test them for fit and such.
carfreak on 08/13/2003 22:25:16
cardboard I can do ...lol
I just want to build a box that has the deep chest pounding bass that I like.
The part that I do not understand is the 2.25 cubic volume. I need exact measurements to build something. How do you figure Internal volume and then take away the speaker and port and braces and be anywhere exact .. First I guess how do you get internal volume. Measure around the outside and subtract the 3/4 mdf? aaaaaaaaaaaaaa too much math .I have been out of high school for 10 years . Is there a easy way to get your internal volume ? I am sure I am makeing more of this than there is to it but I tried once and failed badly with box making .
I have seen the calulators on some web sites but I just do not get what have of the stuff is .
Swez on 08/14/2003 08:46:31
The box does not have to be perfect in order to obtain good bass. You have some leeway with Kicker subs which like larger boxes anyway. A figure of +/-10% will produce a good box, based on specs used.
Cubic foot is nothing more than H" x D" x W" = cf
You know, to keep this box compact and simple, I recommend a sealed enclosure for your first attempt. The specs for a compact sealed enclosure recommended by Kicker is 1.0 cf per sub. This will produce high impact (punchy bass) but great the low frequency extension. (deep bass)
What I suggest, consider a sealed enclosure of 1.50 cf per sub as this box will net better low end bass. To get a physical size for this box, lets run some numbers.
1.50 cf per sub Calculatons: 3.0 cf total (internally)
Height: 16.0" external (16.0" internal)
Width: 34.0" external (32.5" internal)
Depth: 11.5" external (10.0" internal)
Divider board: 14.5" H x 10.0" D x 0.75 T = (109.0 sq. in.)
The math:
16.0 x 32.5 x 10 = 5, 200 ci - 109.0 = 5,091 ci/1728 = 2.95 cf internal which nets a 1.47 cf/sub enclosure
That's the basics and if you follow these dimensions, this is what you'll get.
Front/rear panel cut list: 16.0 H x 34.0" W
Top & Bottom panels: 10.0" x 32.5" W
Side panels: 14.5" H x 10.0" D
Divider panel: 14.5" x 10.0"
Add ~1.0-1.5 lbs of polyfill to each chamber for rear bass wave control.
Finally, make a cardboard model with the external dimensions noted and see how well the model fits. Better yet, a sheet of foam backer board used in housing insulation of 3/4" . Just use duct tape and trim nails or drywall screws (1.5" long) to assemble the box. You can even mount your subs into this box... this will give a rough idea of how the subs will perform in a real box later.
You can cut the foam backer with a sharp razor knife and a 36" yard stick. This will build your confidence and help you see how all this fits together. Once you get all the dimensional cuts rit and they all fit properly, then you'll have a template to have your wood cut for the real enclosure.
TIP: If you do not have power tools to cut wood panels, Home Depot will cut the panels for you at a small charge. (~ $0.50/cut) The only other cuts to make are circles for the sub cutouts. A router or RotoZip tool with compass cutting jiz will make this easy... but if you are careful with a jig saw (saber saw), the holes will turm out ... but not as clean a circle as other tools.
Do you think this is possible for you to do? I think you can do it with a little help from a buddy with wood working tools and skills.
Swez
carfreak on 08/14/2003 17:27:09
I can do it I was hoping to go with a ported box but I can do this. I do not have a skill saw but I can borrow my nextdoor neighbors. I have a jigsaw and You are right a round hole is not easy but with some sanding It will work .Well I will give your directions a shot. MDF is cheap here too so It will not cost that much to do it bout 20-30 dollars for the mdf. I have plunty of drywall screws . I will give people a tip If they are going to build a box predrill your holes in MDF if it is possable. that way the screw will not break the mdf . Found that out on the last box I butcherd
carfreak on 08/15/2003 22:23:45
Well bad news . Someone stole some of my checks and wrote some and they went through the bank . So now If the bank dose not correct the problem then I will Not be able to get any thing but the 5.25 and the amp to go with it . I have to use the money to pay what was taken from me . The messed up thing is it pretty much has to be someone I know and thought was a freind
compvr15s on 08/15/2003 22:57:04
man that sux, sorry to hear that, hope ya get it straightened out, or find out who did it, damn people anyway
Swez on 08/15/2003 23:26:55
Man... I feel bad for you and I curse the poor fool who ripped you off.... he will have a miserable way to go for doing so!
Swez
carfreak on 08/15/2003 23:57:51
Yea It could be my brother-inlaw or a guy I just hooked up his sterieo. Or my neighbor across the street. But I am not going to confront anyone I will let the cops do that when they find out who took it but now I have to try to be nice to these people not knowing who did it .
carfreak on 08/16/2003 00:00:19
I just hope I am wrong about these people
Swez on 08/16/2003 06:16:59
Get to the bank as soon as you can and have them stop payments on any checks that you suspect are missing. If they show up at the bank, the bank will notify you of who used the checks as they usually have to get a driver's lic., or some form of ID to cash larger checks.
I hope you can get this one resolved ASAP.
Swez
carfreak on 08/16/2003 08:46:08
well I put my DL # on the check so I do not know if that will help.
But most places have to run it in a stamper that stamps date time and Reg# so If they keep useing them they will get busted.
I almost hope it is my mistake and I am a duma$$ then have one of the people that I listed to have done it . My bank is not open today either so I have to wait till monday and have no money all weekend due to I am afraid that checks will bounce .
Swez on 08/16/2003 17:00:36
I feel for you... tip... never sign a check until you are ready to use it. Also, if you have the Lic # on it already, who ever uses the check will either have to forge your name or have false ID with your DL number on same or the bank should not accept it.
The bank will also check funds before they release the check for cashing on larger amounts. This buys you 2-3 banking days to stop payment via bank.
On Monday, go down to your branch and talk with one of the Supervisors and explain the details. You may have to close the account and start new.... that would be the safest thing to do.
Swez
PS Either way, if you stop payments on these lost checks, the bank may charge a small fee for that... but is negotiable when talking face to face with a helpful Manager. Especially if you have been a long time customer and a regular flow of cash into that account.
Hang in there!
carfreak on 08/16/2003 17:19:19
well i found the checks and it was my error i forgot to write a check in the back so as it was not stole i am a dumba$$ and still will not be able to buy the subs and amp as I now have a leaky roof to fix with what money I have left after my mistake. Thank god I never accused anyone for stealing it . I felt bad nuff thinking they did it to begin with . I will get my subs and amp but It wil be about 4 to 5 months down the road. MAD
Swez on 08/18/2003 14:27:35
Glad you found the check(s)....
Swez
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