I recently purchased a 260 Amp alternator, and I was wondering if it is hard to install, or if i would need someone to do it for me. Another question is about how much feet of wiring would i need for the Big 3 Upgrade? i have a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado and i am currently only using 1 battery. I am planning on using 1/0 wires to do the upgrade. Any suggestions on where i can get the wires by the foot and cheaply? thanks in advance.
Replies (17)
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 14:01:26
anyone?
cybersailor420 on 10/17/2006 15:36:08
I use knukonceptz.com for all of my power distribution needs, as do many others on this site. Some of the best quality wire (high strand count) for some of the best prices.
As far as how much wire you will need, the best answer would be for you to look under your hood, mentally trace where you are going to run the wire, and guess-timate how much you are going to need.
I believe I only used like 4' of 1/0 awg for my big 3 upgrade, but every car will be slightly different.
-Ian-
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 16:21:48
hey well thats good to know then i ordered 10 ft of 0 gauge wire so that should be good huh? is doing the big three hard or is it very simple? thanks
cybersailor420 on 10/17/2006 16:34:03
I did mine in less than 20 minutes. It depends on how easy it is to get at your alternator output post. Some alternators are not very accessible. Mine is very easy to get at.
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 16:58:27
oh ok well then thats good news because some guy wanted to charge me around 100 dollars just for the big three upgrade. I just thought he was crazy and trying to take advantage of his customers so i just said thanks and hung up.
swez on 10/17/2006 17:14:06
Look for the shortest pathways possible for your Big 3 runs. The one fron the ALT to BAT Pos will often be the longer one. The BAT Neg to ground is usually pretty short as is the engine block to body ground
FYI: GM side posts are a real "PITA" to work on when adding more wires. You can get post extensions for them, but they are not the easiest to work with when adding heavy gage wires:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Battery%20Terminals
Most GM Alts are very easy to remove and install. In most cases, removal is just to loosen and remove the two bolts that hold the ALT in the bracket assy. There is also an adjustable Idle tensioner pully with a large hex nut in the center. It's spring loaded and all one needs is a large socket to fit or a 12" adjustable crescent wrench will do. This spring is pretty heavy, so one has to "reef" pretty hard on it to make it pivot enough to slide the serpintine belts off the ALT pully.
The last thing to know, when you pull the old ALT out, compare the locations of the mounting bracket bolt holes to the ALT casing and look at the position of the ALT output lug and the 2-3 wire controller connector. If they matchup perfectly, it should brop right in.
HOWEVER, non-stock ALT's may not be "clocked" in the correct position for easy access to either electrical connections needed. (Orientation = clocking) If you find this to be the case, it's best to have a mechanic do the work for you. He will re-clock the housing to the correct orientation for you.
WARNING: I DO NOT RECOMMEND ''CLOCKING'' AN ALTERNATOR IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE IT BEFORE!!!. It's easy for a Pro mechanic, but not for the averaqge oil change and lube jockey. (Get it wrong and the brushed come out of their stays, you'll have to dissassemble the whole ALT and start from scratch) A Pro can do this properly in a matter of minutes with the correct tools and proper knowhow. (Read and heed OK?)
Are we clear on that matter?
swez
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 17:50:37
Good explanation for the most part, but what do you mean about clocking the alt? I mean doesn't the guy that makes the alternator take care of that?
swez on 10/17/2006 19:06:57
Not all custom ALT's come to us properly ''clocked''.
The ALT comes apart in two casings. We have a rear casing, (where the brushes, field coil, Pos output lug, control wires and often the voltage regulator are housed.
The Front casing has the mounting brackets, stator and pully assy. In order to mount and ALT correctly as the one that came out, we may have to remove the housing bolts and twist, (clock) both halves of the casing so the mounting brackets match up with where the wiring lugs line up and can be installed properly again.
Yes, I have performed this task a few times and found the first one w/o knowledge, to be a real headache. However, once I learned the proper way to do this, it was very easy and minimal tools and effort were needed.
If you read this and observe the pictures, it explains ''clocking'' a typical GM ALT. We look at the relationship of the sensor lugs in relationship to front half casings mounting hardware. Look closely at the pics of a 9:00 vs a 12:00 position for clocking and you'll get the idea. We have 3 options in clocking choices... 9:00, 12:00 & 3:00 locations. If the one you buy does not match the unit installed now, it needs to be ''reclocked" by someone who knows what to do.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml
swez
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 20:47:15
oh ok well good deal, this guy ask you for specific information on your vehicle like what make, model, year, engine size you have. So im sure this guy would tune it the certain way for my vehicle, but if not im sure the mechanic could.
swez on 10/18/2006 06:24:05
Most ALT rebuilders can do the re-clocking and install for you if needed. I found an older guy here in town to help me out the first time I had a ALT failure. He did my Olds Trofeo' a few years back and added some HD parts to get 120A from a 108A casing and he did it all for $100.00.
This guy had been doing starters and Alts for over 30 years and he made it look very easy. He even took me back into the shop as he did the guts rebuild. Seeing all this, gave me plenty of confidence in him and that I could do the same things if needed later.
The next one, I did on my own and swapped out a Buick 105A with that 120A from the Olds before I sold it. I had to reclock both ALTs during the swap out and the 120A barely fit in the Buick. (Had no problems reclocking either of them)
The only challenge I had, was swapping pullys. They were not the same dimensions and I borrowed an impact tool to remove each pully and reinstall. Once I knew what to do and had the proper tools in hand, it was a cake walk.
swez
cecilio87 on 10/19/2006 10:36:12
thats really good to know. I think im getting my alt this monday or tuesday, so hopefully it will go as smooth as urs did. man i can't wait 260 amps and 155 at idle. Its gonna be cool. thanks
swez on 10/20/2006 08:29:20
You may wish to look for a few ALT rebuilders in your local area (phone book) as a pre-emptive measure. That way, if you need professional assistance for the install or custom hardware fabrication work done, you'll already have a short list to scope out some help. You may not need this.... but if it is needed, better to be prepared huh?
swez
Hydrogin on 10/21/2006 18:15:34
I know it's a bit late but next time you want to figure out how much wire you'll need try using a piece of string. Route the string the way you would the actual wire and add about 3 - 4". Works like a charm.
Hydrogin
cecilio87 on 10/22/2006 02:41:30
Yeah that would actually work, but I guess i was too lazy to measure that and i just bought 10 ft, which i know is too much, but i could probalby use the extra wiring. Thanks though
swez on 10/22/2006 10:04:57
Very good Cec... care to make a donation to CK now? I'd like to see a Gold Star next to your name each time you posted.
swez
cecilio87 on 10/22/2006 13:50:45
I've made a donation before, but i would for sure do it again i mean anytime i need something CK is there to answer my questions. What does it take to get a gold star next to my name? I am planning on going to a vocational school in houston its called Acoustic Edge, and its a 2 month program strictly on car audio like installs, custom boxes, fiber glass, anything you can think of. After i finish that i am planning on starting my own business with a friend and hopefully get a lot of installs done.
swez on 10/22/2006 20:01:49
Good plan there Cec... if you have been a previous donor, Admins has not finished his rounds and passed out all the Gold Stars to previous donors yet. I see he is catching up, but feel free to Club Mail him as a reminder. If that doesn't get it done, flag me again in a week and I'll put a bug in his ear for you.
We issue Gold Stars to all our donors as appreciation and recognition for thier contributions. If others are reading this, have donated and are not on the donor's list, make that known and we'll set that straight ASAP.
swez
Replies (17)
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 14:01:26
anyone?
cybersailor420 on 10/17/2006 15:36:08
I use knukonceptz.com for all of my power distribution needs, as do many others on this site. Some of the best quality wire (high strand count) for some of the best prices.
As far as how much wire you will need, the best answer would be for you to look under your hood, mentally trace where you are going to run the wire, and guess-timate how much you are going to need.
I believe I only used like 4' of 1/0 awg for my big 3 upgrade, but every car will be slightly different.
-Ian-
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 16:21:48
hey well thats good to know then i ordered 10 ft of 0 gauge wire so that should be good huh? is doing the big three hard or is it very simple? thanks
cybersailor420 on 10/17/2006 16:34:03
I did mine in less than 20 minutes. It depends on how easy it is to get at your alternator output post. Some alternators are not very accessible. Mine is very easy to get at.
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 16:58:27
oh ok well then thats good news because some guy wanted to charge me around 100 dollars just for the big three upgrade. I just thought he was crazy and trying to take advantage of his customers so i just said thanks and hung up.
swez on 10/17/2006 17:14:06
Look for the shortest pathways possible for your Big 3 runs. The one fron the ALT to BAT Pos will often be the longer one. The BAT Neg to ground is usually pretty short as is the engine block to body ground
FYI: GM side posts are a real "PITA" to work on when adding more wires. You can get post extensions for them, but they are not the easiest to work with when adding heavy gage wires:
http://www.knukonceptz.com/productMaster.cfm?Category=Battery%20Terminals
Most GM Alts are very easy to remove and install. In most cases, removal is just to loosen and remove the two bolts that hold the ALT in the bracket assy. There is also an adjustable Idle tensioner pully with a large hex nut in the center. It's spring loaded and all one needs is a large socket to fit or a 12" adjustable crescent wrench will do. This spring is pretty heavy, so one has to "reef" pretty hard on it to make it pivot enough to slide the serpintine belts off the ALT pully.
The last thing to know, when you pull the old ALT out, compare the locations of the mounting bracket bolt holes to the ALT casing and look at the position of the ALT output lug and the 2-3 wire controller connector. If they matchup perfectly, it should brop right in.
HOWEVER, non-stock ALT's may not be "clocked" in the correct position for easy access to either electrical connections needed. (Orientation = clocking) If you find this to be the case, it's best to have a mechanic do the work for you. He will re-clock the housing to the correct orientation for you.
WARNING: I DO NOT RECOMMEND ''CLOCKING'' AN ALTERNATOR IF YOU HAVE NEVER DONE IT BEFORE!!!. It's easy for a Pro mechanic, but not for the averaqge oil change and lube jockey. (Get it wrong and the brushed come out of their stays, you'll have to dissassemble the whole ALT and start from scratch) A Pro can do this properly in a matter of minutes with the correct tools and proper knowhow. (Read and heed OK?)
Are we clear on that matter?
swez
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 17:50:37
Good explanation for the most part, but what do you mean about clocking the alt? I mean doesn't the guy that makes the alternator take care of that?
swez on 10/17/2006 19:06:57
Not all custom ALT's come to us properly ''clocked''.
The ALT comes apart in two casings. We have a rear casing, (where the brushes, field coil, Pos output lug, control wires and often the voltage regulator are housed.
The Front casing has the mounting brackets, stator and pully assy. In order to mount and ALT correctly as the one that came out, we may have to remove the housing bolts and twist, (clock) both halves of the casing so the mounting brackets match up with where the wiring lugs line up and can be installed properly again.
Yes, I have performed this task a few times and found the first one w/o knowledge, to be a real headache. However, once I learned the proper way to do this, it was very easy and minimal tools and effort were needed.
If you read this and observe the pictures, it explains ''clocking'' a typical GM ALT. We look at the relationship of the sensor lugs in relationship to front half casings mounting hardware. Look closely at the pics of a 9:00 vs a 12:00 position for clocking and you'll get the idea. We have 3 options in clocking choices... 9:00, 12:00 & 3:00 locations. If the one you buy does not match the unit installed now, it needs to be ''reclocked" by someone who knows what to do.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/delcoremy.shtml
swez
cecilio87 on 10/17/2006 20:47:15
oh ok well good deal, this guy ask you for specific information on your vehicle like what make, model, year, engine size you have. So im sure this guy would tune it the certain way for my vehicle, but if not im sure the mechanic could.
swez on 10/18/2006 06:24:05
Most ALT rebuilders can do the re-clocking and install for you if needed. I found an older guy here in town to help me out the first time I had a ALT failure. He did my Olds Trofeo' a few years back and added some HD parts to get 120A from a 108A casing and he did it all for $100.00.
This guy had been doing starters and Alts for over 30 years and he made it look very easy. He even took me back into the shop as he did the guts rebuild. Seeing all this, gave me plenty of confidence in him and that I could do the same things if needed later.
The next one, I did on my own and swapped out a Buick 105A with that 120A from the Olds before I sold it. I had to reclock both ALTs during the swap out and the 120A barely fit in the Buick. (Had no problems reclocking either of them)
The only challenge I had, was swapping pullys. They were not the same dimensions and I borrowed an impact tool to remove each pully and reinstall. Once I knew what to do and had the proper tools in hand, it was a cake walk.
swez
cecilio87 on 10/19/2006 10:36:12
thats really good to know. I think im getting my alt this monday or tuesday, so hopefully it will go as smooth as urs did. man i can't wait 260 amps and 155 at idle. Its gonna be cool. thanks
swez on 10/20/2006 08:29:20
You may wish to look for a few ALT rebuilders in your local area (phone book) as a pre-emptive measure. That way, if you need professional assistance for the install or custom hardware fabrication work done, you'll already have a short list to scope out some help. You may not need this.... but if it is needed, better to be prepared huh?
swez
Hydrogin on 10/21/2006 18:15:34
I know it's a bit late but next time you want to figure out how much wire you'll need try using a piece of string. Route the string the way you would the actual wire and add about 3 - 4". Works like a charm.
Hydrogin
cecilio87 on 10/22/2006 02:41:30
Yeah that would actually work, but I guess i was too lazy to measure that and i just bought 10 ft, which i know is too much, but i could probalby use the extra wiring. Thanks though
swez on 10/22/2006 10:04:57
Very good Cec... care to make a donation to CK now? I'd like to see a Gold Star next to your name each time you posted.
swez
cecilio87 on 10/22/2006 13:50:45
I've made a donation before, but i would for sure do it again i mean anytime i need something CK is there to answer my questions. What does it take to get a gold star next to my name? I am planning on going to a vocational school in houston its called Acoustic Edge, and its a 2 month program strictly on car audio like installs, custom boxes, fiber glass, anything you can think of. After i finish that i am planning on starting my own business with a friend and hopefully get a lot of installs done.
swez on 10/22/2006 20:01:49
Good plan there Cec... if you have been a previous donor, Admins has not finished his rounds and passed out all the Gold Stars to previous donors yet. I see he is catching up, but feel free to Club Mail him as a reminder. If that doesn't get it done, flag me again in a week and I'll put a bug in his ear for you.
We issue Gold Stars to all our donors as appreciation and recognition for thier contributions. If others are reading this, have donated and are not on the donor's list, make that known and we'll set that straight ASAP.
swez
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