Currently I have Two Solobaric S12L7s and a 2000 Watt RMS U.S.Amp. I think the model of the amp is the AX-2000 and it is a class A/B power supply. This is also a high current amp, so it pulls ALOT OF POWER. Right now i just have a stock 105 amp alternator, but i want to get the full potential of my system. thanks any help would be appreciated.
Replies (23)
cecilio87 on 09/28/2006 20:00:31
Hey everyone i found these guys, but i don't know much about their stuff. Can anyone tell me what they've heard or tell me if these are good? iraggi alternators.
They have an Ebay store, and here is the link
http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics
Thanks again
MrBrownstone on 09/29/2006 22:35:09
Can't tell you about the seller or the product, but some questions to ask would be:
1. What is the alternator's output at ~600 rpms? (car idling)
2. What is YOUR 105A output rated at? idle, 2k RPMs?
3. What make/model vehicle are you using?
I clicked on the 200A 'Amputator' model (Honda) and it's 115 A @ idle. I clicked on the 200A 'Dominator' and it's 75A at idle.
That's an ENORMOUS disparity as your amplifier might use 80A at full output...granted not for 100% of the time, just during bass notes.
Considering what you use your current system for, are you going to be using your AX-2000 when driving full speeds or at idle most often?
Coincidentally, the Amputator 180A puts out 120A at idle...which is probably more important to you anyway. Bigger windings means lower RPMs necessary to reach full alternator output. While the Dominator 180A puts out 80A @ idle.
Comparison
Amputator 200A 115A idle
Amputator 180A 120A idle
Dominator 180A 80A idle
Dominator 200A 75A idle
MrBrownstone on 09/29/2006 22:38:57
PS keep in mind, it's only putting out 2kW when you are using it at it's highest levels.
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 00:43:38
Well whats more important to me is when im driving. Like i want to drive, and not have to keep it at a low volume. Right now the bass hits, but i hear when the amp shuts down because its not getting enough voltage. Voltage drops i heard were an easy way of killing an AMP, so i do NOT WANT THAT. My truck is a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado Ext Cab. its also a 1500 just incase.
swez on 09/30/2006 10:45:03
Amp cuts out at high volume? It might not be just a voltage drop issue. Most amps do this for 3 maun reasons:
1. Wrong amp gain settings (protect mode)
2. Improper load impedence (protect mode)
3. Shorting outputs due to speaker wires touching amp chassis (protect mode)
Tha AX 2000 is a 2 channel amp. It can deliver 1000 watts per channel at 2 ohms and when bridged, it can deliver a MONO 2000 watts at 4 ohms.
Your Kicker L7's... what version do you have here? (2+2 or 4+4 DVC's?) Are you running 1 sub per channel or both subs to amp in MONO bridged mode?
Say more about your amp/sub wiring configuration and where is the gain setting now OK?
swez
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 11:25:33
Sorry about that. well i have two 12L7s and they are dual 4 ohm. The setup is wired in series parrallel, which brings each sub to 8 ohms. Overall it is Bridged at 4 ohms mono. Well on this amp i think it only comes like with a volume setting, and right now thats set at 3/4th of the way. everything on the deck is zero and the sub-w out is +2 db. Thanks again
swez on 09/30/2006 11:47:53
OK, that sounds correct and if you have a multi-meter, some electrical tests would confirm you what you have these phases correct and can also monitor voltage drops too.
Invest $20.00 in a decent Digital meter and we can walk you through a few simple tests to determine what you have is indeed correct and set the gain properly too. You can also use the meter to estimate the RMS power this amp is putting out to these subs.
This meter or one with similar features will do:
www.RadioShack.com
15-Range Digital Multimeter
Model: 22-810
Finally, try setting amp gain at mid-point for a quick test and see if the amp stays powered up when you dial up the HU power.
swez
PS What HU make and model # are you using now?
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 11:55:55
yeah i need one, but for now i have to pay some bills and try to save some money to buy a bigger alternator and an optima yellow top D31T. My dash board has a voltage meter, and when normal it should be at 14, but when the bass hits or especially when it goes real deep, you see the meter just shoot straight down to around 10 v. When it does that i turn down the volume down from 26 to about 20. But that meter does sound good. i will buy one for sure.
swez on 09/30/2006 12:20:13
Yes, you have a severe voltage drop issue here and a test meter will help you figure out where it's coming from and how best to work around it.
As for buying priorities, I would take this approach in the following stages:
1. Get the meter
2. Buy your new BAT
3. Do the Big 3 upgrade
4. Buy the H.O. ALT as a last item resort
Here, items 1-3 will help determine where you are now and how each upgrade changes the picture for better or worse. In the meantime, set your sub amp gain at mid-point and see if that helps.
The idea is to get good bass performance w/o bashing your present electrical system all over the map. This is very hard on the charging system as noted. I would hazzard a guess that your stock ALT is a 105A model with a 600-650 CCA rated BAT?
FYI: This is probably the 2nd BAT for this truck. Most OEM BAT's last 3-4 winters on average. If they get a few heavy discharges and drain the BAT to a point the truck won't start of keep the engine running, just a few of these events can kill a new lead/acid BAT in a matter of months.
Here, a strong Gel Cell, (Marine, RV or Deep Cycle BAT) is your best bet. These are designed for heavy discharges and will come back for at least 300 complete discharges. A typical Start only BAT cannot take such conditions for long w/o serious damage and a very short life span is imminent.
Got all that?
Swez
swez on 09/30/2006 12:23:34
Do you have YIM chat available? If yes, I'll be there for a little while if you wish to hook up and discuss this. My YIM ID is "swedp"
Swez
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 12:42:40
That sounds good i already added you to my contact list.
swez on 09/30/2006 13:36:21
Have a few things to attend to this afternoon. I'll look for you later tonight or on Sunday OK?
Swez
MrBrownstone on 09/30/2006 21:31:38
If you really are using 2kW, and the amp is a AB, current is an issue. It sounds like a circuit protection. They don't call them Use Some Amps (US Amps) for nothing :-)
What type of wiring upgrades did you make? Although there's no wire large enough to compensate for the load, it may assist you in getting the max out of that system.
For over 1kW, I'd consider getting a Class D as you'll use 1/2 the current, have little stress on the amp, and the alternator would be somewhat optional vs. mandatory with the AB.
If you stick with the AB, you'll need the alternator upgrade, eventually--particularly if you are maxing out your amp's capability. The battery isn't going to be the major issue here, supply will be. Although, if the battery is deteriorated, a new one is definitely in order.
Also make sure connections aren't corroded as well. Perhaps we should have an electrical system checklist. I'll work one up later.
cecilio87 on 10/1/2006 00:01:13
Well i know that class D amps are very efficient, but then again they have a much higher THD noise, and they arent as powerful. For example you could have a Kicker ZX2500.1 Mono Class D Amp Vs the AX-2000 US 2 Channel, and the 2000 US AMP will blow the kicker one out of the water. Because of the AX-2000 being a high current amp it is capaple of pushing more than what the kicker can. My wiring on electrical is stock for now. but from my electrical to my amp im using 0 AWG
swez on 10/1/2006 09:39:18
Q1. How high does THD have to be before one can really begin to notice the difference?
A1. Above 3% THD, few people can note the deterioration or sound degradation. (Mids and Highs) Anything below that amount, is only detectable with an O-Scope.
Q2. What are the typical efficienies of a Class D vs Class A/B amplifiers?
A2. Class D amps are about 80-85% efficient. Class A/B amps are at best, about 60%. Yes, a Class A/B's have very good THD numbers, but they also generate a lot of current draw that winds up lost in the form of excess heat.
Q3. Is there an audible difference between 2,000 VS 2,500 watt amplifiers?
A3. Assuming they are both driving the same set of speakers, NOPE!!! The difference is less than 1dB of SPL between them. A SPL Comp mike might detect the difference, but the human ear cannot hear that small a difference. (Especially if/when the SPL levels are above 130dB)
Quote: "For example you could have a Kicker ZX2500.1 Mono Class D Amp Vs the AX-2000 US 2 Channel, and the 2000 US AMP will blow the kicker one out of the water."
At a net 4 ohm loads and the US Amps bridged MONO, yes... this statement is true. However, if we used the same subs, but ran the the Kicker at 2 ohms and bridged the US Amp to a 4 ohm load, only an SPL meter could detect any real differences. (Subs would be L7's, but one kit is the 4+4 DVC pairing @ 4 ohms. The other kit would be L7's, 2+2 DVC's wired for a net 2 ohm load)
If we optimized both amps for maximum RMS power, the audible differences would be so limited, the human ear will not detect the differences.
swez
ttocs on 10/1/2006 09:40:25
upgraded the big 3 yet?
cecilio87 on 10/1/2006 10:31:15
nope big 3 is still all stock. But im going to buy a 15-Range Digital Multimeter so i can see the actual voltage, and rms my subs are pushing. then i'm going to buy a D31T Optima Yellow Top, and then upgrade to a 250 or 300 Amp Alternator. Swez thats probably all correct, but which amp would perform better pushing a single Solo X-12. the solo x is 2500 watts rms 5000 peak.
swez on 10/1/2006 13:26:22
Frankly, I'd go with a matched system when possible here. Kicker makes a very good mix of subs and amps.
US Amps are no slouches either. However, having a Class D option at these power levels, makes a lot more sense on the budget, power consumption and getting good tech support too.
If you have a question on US Amps powering Kicker subs, they will probably respond well to your needs. However, if you went to Kicker and asked about US Amps and mating to their subs, they'll tell you to use a Kicker amp for the best possible match.
I would have to agree with that one too. This would pretty much give you Carte Blanche with Kicker Tech Support as they know their gear and are willing to help you as much as needed.
swez
PS I am not endorsing one over the other here. Am just pointing out the obvious and to be sure, either amp will get the job done well, if you do your part right. (Ie: Correct amp/sub matching, enclosure design optimizations and of coarse, plenty of reserve power to feed either one of these critter amps)
cecilio87 on 10/1/2006 20:26:25
Thats probably true, but my problem is I did spend money on the US Amp already. Next time i will go with a match combo. Well i purchased the 15-Range Digital Multimeter, but i don't know how to use it or what. can you help me out with that please. thanks in advance
MrBrownstone on 10/2/2006 00:01:58
CC
Most car audio amplifiers shut down when they receive below about 11V. If your system is dipping that low, an alternator upgrade will be required if you want to continue to use this amplifer.
Concerning AB vs D amplfiers I challenge you to find an AB amp that blows a class D out of the water for sound quality, output, and maximizing current usage. Try to remember, the THD rating on amplifiers is a reference point. An AB amp is a lumberjack, and a Class D is a chainsaw. There's no comparison to the innovation in design.
THD below 3% isn't audible, so don't worry about any amplifier sounding particularly 'dirtier' than another one...unless it's overrated crap like Boss, Legacy, etc.
Amplifiers THD depends upon output. ex: 2 ohm load
100Wx1 @ 0.001% THD
200Wx1 @ 0.005% THD
400Wx1 @ 0.100% THD
600Wx1 @ 1.000% THD
700Wx1 @ 10.000% THD
You could rate this amplifier @ 500Wx1 @ 0.5% THD, or 600Wx1 @ 1%...it's up to you. One thing we know, the distortion goes up rapidly above 600 watts, and it goes up on a logarithmic scale. THD is just a reference point.
"Class Ds are more powerful than ABs"? Are you on crack? Class Ds are more efficient in every category of measuement!!!! If you don't have a class D amp in your car system, you are missing one of the best innovations in the last 35 years. Class ABs have nothing to offer our subwoofers that Ds don't have.
High Current? That's just a term like 'low, low financing' as it is meaningless. The terminology was previously used in the 1980s to identify amplifiers that were capable of running at lower impedances (like 2ohm, 1ohm). Of course, Class Ds do that naturally....but at 40% less current drain and practically no heat.
If you want to continue to use your amplifier (to it's maximum potential), you'll probably need an alternator upgrade. If your listen to anything other than burp tones, it has so much power that we've bridged audible sensory overload. If your system is installed and designed properly, it should be so loud that you are unable to listen to it at full output. It should be painful!!!
cecilio87 on 10/5/2006 19:42:33
Mr. Brownstone, you're probably right. Im not too new to this, but i honestly am not up their in knowing the correct distinction between class a or b or ab or class d amps. I did know that class d were more efficient, but i heard somewhere the USAmp would be my best bet as it is a high current amplifier. If i get a 300 amp alternator, how many batteries would i possibly need to have everything well and done for? thanks in advance.
swez on 10/6/2006 06:41:28
Since you already have 1 Optima, consider a battery isolator circuit that will power any AUX batteries used for your bass engine. Here, 1-2 buffer batteries should do the trick.
This arrangement is common in diesel trucks and RV's. Basically, it's a device that polls all batteries on the charging circuit and when one bat drops below a pre-determined value, the isolator will allocate extra charging current to top it off.
Want to read more? Go here for some very good insights:
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm (Charging circuit primer)
http://www.bcae1.com/ballndrv.htm (Isolator circuit functions)
Hope that helps,
swez
PS If your present charging system is not keeping up, you may find the present ALT is not up to par due to a damaged diode bridge, internal regulator or inner field coil sets. This is easily checked by charging circuit tester. Most good autoparts shops can test this free, for you and tell you if the system is not up to par. That will at least tell you how soon to take care of this upgrade.
cecilio87 on 10/6/2006 19:06:06
Well i don't have the Optima battery yet, but i'm working on saving some money right now to purchase everything.
Replies (23)
cecilio87 on 09/28/2006 20:00:31
Hey everyone i found these guys, but i don't know much about their stuff. Can anyone tell me what they've heard or tell me if these are good? iraggi alternators.
They have an Ebay store, and here is the link
http://stores.ebay.com/Iraggi-Alternator-and-Electronics
Thanks again
MrBrownstone on 09/29/2006 22:35:09
Can't tell you about the seller or the product, but some questions to ask would be:
1. What is the alternator's output at ~600 rpms? (car idling)
2. What is YOUR 105A output rated at? idle, 2k RPMs?
3. What make/model vehicle are you using?
I clicked on the 200A 'Amputator' model (Honda) and it's 115 A @ idle. I clicked on the 200A 'Dominator' and it's 75A at idle.
That's an ENORMOUS disparity as your amplifier might use 80A at full output...granted not for 100% of the time, just during bass notes.
Considering what you use your current system for, are you going to be using your AX-2000 when driving full speeds or at idle most often?
Coincidentally, the Amputator 180A puts out 120A at idle...which is probably more important to you anyway. Bigger windings means lower RPMs necessary to reach full alternator output. While the Dominator 180A puts out 80A @ idle.
Comparison
Amputator 200A 115A idle
Amputator 180A 120A idle
Dominator 180A 80A idle
Dominator 200A 75A idle
MrBrownstone on 09/29/2006 22:38:57
PS keep in mind, it's only putting out 2kW when you are using it at it's highest levels.
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 00:43:38
Well whats more important to me is when im driving. Like i want to drive, and not have to keep it at a low volume. Right now the bass hits, but i hear when the amp shuts down because its not getting enough voltage. Voltage drops i heard were an easy way of killing an AMP, so i do NOT WANT THAT. My truck is a 1995 Chevrolet Silverado Ext Cab. its also a 1500 just incase.
swez on 09/30/2006 10:45:03
Amp cuts out at high volume? It might not be just a voltage drop issue. Most amps do this for 3 maun reasons:
1. Wrong amp gain settings (protect mode)
2. Improper load impedence (protect mode)
3. Shorting outputs due to speaker wires touching amp chassis (protect mode)
Tha AX 2000 is a 2 channel amp. It can deliver 1000 watts per channel at 2 ohms and when bridged, it can deliver a MONO 2000 watts at 4 ohms.
Your Kicker L7's... what version do you have here? (2+2 or 4+4 DVC's?) Are you running 1 sub per channel or both subs to amp in MONO bridged mode?
Say more about your amp/sub wiring configuration and where is the gain setting now OK?
swez
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 11:25:33
Sorry about that. well i have two 12L7s and they are dual 4 ohm. The setup is wired in series parrallel, which brings each sub to 8 ohms. Overall it is Bridged at 4 ohms mono. Well on this amp i think it only comes like with a volume setting, and right now thats set at 3/4th of the way. everything on the deck is zero and the sub-w out is +2 db. Thanks again
swez on 09/30/2006 11:47:53
OK, that sounds correct and if you have a multi-meter, some electrical tests would confirm you what you have these phases correct and can also monitor voltage drops too.
Invest $20.00 in a decent Digital meter and we can walk you through a few simple tests to determine what you have is indeed correct and set the gain properly too. You can also use the meter to estimate the RMS power this amp is putting out to these subs.
This meter or one with similar features will do:
www.RadioShack.com
15-Range Digital Multimeter
Model: 22-810
Finally, try setting amp gain at mid-point for a quick test and see if the amp stays powered up when you dial up the HU power.
swez
PS What HU make and model # are you using now?
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 11:55:55
yeah i need one, but for now i have to pay some bills and try to save some money to buy a bigger alternator and an optima yellow top D31T. My dash board has a voltage meter, and when normal it should be at 14, but when the bass hits or especially when it goes real deep, you see the meter just shoot straight down to around 10 v. When it does that i turn down the volume down from 26 to about 20. But that meter does sound good. i will buy one for sure.
swez on 09/30/2006 12:20:13
Yes, you have a severe voltage drop issue here and a test meter will help you figure out where it's coming from and how best to work around it.
As for buying priorities, I would take this approach in the following stages:
1. Get the meter
2. Buy your new BAT
3. Do the Big 3 upgrade
4. Buy the H.O. ALT as a last item resort
Here, items 1-3 will help determine where you are now and how each upgrade changes the picture for better or worse. In the meantime, set your sub amp gain at mid-point and see if that helps.
The idea is to get good bass performance w/o bashing your present electrical system all over the map. This is very hard on the charging system as noted. I would hazzard a guess that your stock ALT is a 105A model with a 600-650 CCA rated BAT?
FYI: This is probably the 2nd BAT for this truck. Most OEM BAT's last 3-4 winters on average. If they get a few heavy discharges and drain the BAT to a point the truck won't start of keep the engine running, just a few of these events can kill a new lead/acid BAT in a matter of months.
Here, a strong Gel Cell, (Marine, RV or Deep Cycle BAT) is your best bet. These are designed for heavy discharges and will come back for at least 300 complete discharges. A typical Start only BAT cannot take such conditions for long w/o serious damage and a very short life span is imminent.
Got all that?
Swez
swez on 09/30/2006 12:23:34
Do you have YIM chat available? If yes, I'll be there for a little while if you wish to hook up and discuss this. My YIM ID is "swedp"
Swez
cecilio87 on 09/30/2006 12:42:40
That sounds good i already added you to my contact list.
swez on 09/30/2006 13:36:21
Have a few things to attend to this afternoon. I'll look for you later tonight or on Sunday OK?
Swez
MrBrownstone on 09/30/2006 21:31:38
If you really are using 2kW, and the amp is a AB, current is an issue. It sounds like a circuit protection. They don't call them Use Some Amps (US Amps) for nothing :-)
What type of wiring upgrades did you make? Although there's no wire large enough to compensate for the load, it may assist you in getting the max out of that system.
For over 1kW, I'd consider getting a Class D as you'll use 1/2 the current, have little stress on the amp, and the alternator would be somewhat optional vs. mandatory with the AB.
If you stick with the AB, you'll need the alternator upgrade, eventually--particularly if you are maxing out your amp's capability. The battery isn't going to be the major issue here, supply will be. Although, if the battery is deteriorated, a new one is definitely in order.
Also make sure connections aren't corroded as well. Perhaps we should have an electrical system checklist. I'll work one up later.
cecilio87 on 10/1/2006 00:01:13
Well i know that class D amps are very efficient, but then again they have a much higher THD noise, and they arent as powerful. For example you could have a Kicker ZX2500.1 Mono Class D Amp Vs the AX-2000 US 2 Channel, and the 2000 US AMP will blow the kicker one out of the water. Because of the AX-2000 being a high current amp it is capaple of pushing more than what the kicker can. My wiring on electrical is stock for now. but from my electrical to my amp im using 0 AWG
swez on 10/1/2006 09:39:18
Q1. How high does THD have to be before one can really begin to notice the difference?
A1. Above 3% THD, few people can note the deterioration or sound degradation. (Mids and Highs) Anything below that amount, is only detectable with an O-Scope.
Q2. What are the typical efficienies of a Class D vs Class A/B amplifiers?
A2. Class D amps are about 80-85% efficient. Class A/B amps are at best, about 60%. Yes, a Class A/B's have very good THD numbers, but they also generate a lot of current draw that winds up lost in the form of excess heat.
Q3. Is there an audible difference between 2,000 VS 2,500 watt amplifiers?
A3. Assuming they are both driving the same set of speakers, NOPE!!! The difference is less than 1dB of SPL between them. A SPL Comp mike might detect the difference, but the human ear cannot hear that small a difference. (Especially if/when the SPL levels are above 130dB)
Quote: "For example you could have a Kicker ZX2500.1 Mono Class D Amp Vs the AX-2000 US 2 Channel, and the 2000 US AMP will blow the kicker one out of the water."
At a net 4 ohm loads and the US Amps bridged MONO, yes... this statement is true. However, if we used the same subs, but ran the the Kicker at 2 ohms and bridged the US Amp to a 4 ohm load, only an SPL meter could detect any real differences. (Subs would be L7's, but one kit is the 4+4 DVC pairing @ 4 ohms. The other kit would be L7's, 2+2 DVC's wired for a net 2 ohm load)
If we optimized both amps for maximum RMS power, the audible differences would be so limited, the human ear will not detect the differences.
swez
ttocs on 10/1/2006 09:40:25
upgraded the big 3 yet?
cecilio87 on 10/1/2006 10:31:15
nope big 3 is still all stock. But im going to buy a 15-Range Digital Multimeter so i can see the actual voltage, and rms my subs are pushing. then i'm going to buy a D31T Optima Yellow Top, and then upgrade to a 250 or 300 Amp Alternator. Swez thats probably all correct, but which amp would perform better pushing a single Solo X-12. the solo x is 2500 watts rms 5000 peak.
swez on 10/1/2006 13:26:22
Frankly, I'd go with a matched system when possible here. Kicker makes a very good mix of subs and amps.
US Amps are no slouches either. However, having a Class D option at these power levels, makes a lot more sense on the budget, power consumption and getting good tech support too.
If you have a question on US Amps powering Kicker subs, they will probably respond well to your needs. However, if you went to Kicker and asked about US Amps and mating to their subs, they'll tell you to use a Kicker amp for the best possible match.
I would have to agree with that one too. This would pretty much give you Carte Blanche with Kicker Tech Support as they know their gear and are willing to help you as much as needed.
swez
PS I am not endorsing one over the other here. Am just pointing out the obvious and to be sure, either amp will get the job done well, if you do your part right. (Ie: Correct amp/sub matching, enclosure design optimizations and of coarse, plenty of reserve power to feed either one of these critter amps)
cecilio87 on 10/1/2006 20:26:25
Thats probably true, but my problem is I did spend money on the US Amp already. Next time i will go with a match combo. Well i purchased the 15-Range Digital Multimeter, but i don't know how to use it or what. can you help me out with that please. thanks in advance
MrBrownstone on 10/2/2006 00:01:58
CC
Most car audio amplifiers shut down when they receive below about 11V. If your system is dipping that low, an alternator upgrade will be required if you want to continue to use this amplifer.
Concerning AB vs D amplfiers I challenge you to find an AB amp that blows a class D out of the water for sound quality, output, and maximizing current usage. Try to remember, the THD rating on amplifiers is a reference point. An AB amp is a lumberjack, and a Class D is a chainsaw. There's no comparison to the innovation in design.
THD below 3% isn't audible, so don't worry about any amplifier sounding particularly 'dirtier' than another one...unless it's overrated crap like Boss, Legacy, etc.
Amplifiers THD depends upon output. ex: 2 ohm load
100Wx1 @ 0.001% THD
200Wx1 @ 0.005% THD
400Wx1 @ 0.100% THD
600Wx1 @ 1.000% THD
700Wx1 @ 10.000% THD
You could rate this amplifier @ 500Wx1 @ 0.5% THD, or 600Wx1 @ 1%...it's up to you. One thing we know, the distortion goes up rapidly above 600 watts, and it goes up on a logarithmic scale. THD is just a reference point.
"Class Ds are more powerful than ABs"? Are you on crack? Class Ds are more efficient in every category of measuement!!!! If you don't have a class D amp in your car system, you are missing one of the best innovations in the last 35 years. Class ABs have nothing to offer our subwoofers that Ds don't have.
High Current? That's just a term like 'low, low financing' as it is meaningless. The terminology was previously used in the 1980s to identify amplifiers that were capable of running at lower impedances (like 2ohm, 1ohm). Of course, Class Ds do that naturally....but at 40% less current drain and practically no heat.
If you want to continue to use your amplifier (to it's maximum potential), you'll probably need an alternator upgrade. If your listen to anything other than burp tones, it has so much power that we've bridged audible sensory overload. If your system is installed and designed properly, it should be so loud that you are unable to listen to it at full output. It should be painful!!!
cecilio87 on 10/5/2006 19:42:33
Mr. Brownstone, you're probably right. Im not too new to this, but i honestly am not up their in knowing the correct distinction between class a or b or ab or class d amps. I did know that class d were more efficient, but i heard somewhere the USAmp would be my best bet as it is a high current amplifier. If i get a 300 amp alternator, how many batteries would i possibly need to have everything well and done for? thanks in advance.
swez on 10/6/2006 06:41:28
Since you already have 1 Optima, consider a battery isolator circuit that will power any AUX batteries used for your bass engine. Here, 1-2 buffer batteries should do the trick.
This arrangement is common in diesel trucks and RV's. Basically, it's a device that polls all batteries on the charging circuit and when one bat drops below a pre-determined value, the isolator will allocate extra charging current to top it off.
Want to read more? Go here for some very good insights:
http://www.bcae1.com/charging.htm (Charging circuit primer)
http://www.bcae1.com/ballndrv.htm (Isolator circuit functions)
Hope that helps,
swez
PS If your present charging system is not keeping up, you may find the present ALT is not up to par due to a damaged diode bridge, internal regulator or inner field coil sets. This is easily checked by charging circuit tester. Most good autoparts shops can test this free, for you and tell you if the system is not up to par. That will at least tell you how soon to take care of this upgrade.
cecilio87 on 10/6/2006 19:06:06
Well i don't have the Optima battery yet, but i'm working on saving some money right now to purchase everything.
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