where can i find high output alts or do i have too have it speacily mad
Replies (18)
lessismorespl on 09/13/2006 20:16:06
I have used several over the years....H/O and Ohio are way over priced. Try going here and see if they have one for your make/model of car, they are much more affordable and make just as good of product:
http://www.motorcityreman.com
In most cases you can get a 170-200 amp alt. for under $250, not much more if they have to specifically build it for your vehicle. They handle most american made makes/models and some imports.
less
swez on 09/15/2006 01:01:08
MC-Reman, Stinger and Ohio Gen have been catching on to the price some guys are willing to pay for H.O. ALT's of late and their prices seem to be going outragous too.
You may find the trailer package 140/160A version to be adequate, depending on the amps and such used now. If not, check some of your local shops and see if they can gut and rebuilt your present ALT with H.O. parts. This is often cheaper than aftermarket ALT's as noted above.
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/15/2006 01:35:44
I guess the real question is do you reall need a specialty alternator? Are you competing in DB Drag or something similar?
lessismorespl on 09/15/2006 08:37:05
A rewind is usually $1-$2 per amp. I have always found Motorcity Reman reasonable, $219(200 amp/95 on idle) for my ford Taurus and $189(170 amp/90 on idle) for my Grand Am. Of course I'm not paying shipping b/c I go down state and pick them up. Sears sell 120 amp DieHard Golds which are brand new w/ a good warranty for about $130-$150.
In most cases we do not NEED an aftermarket alternator. However, many of us run more than one amp. In most cases a good battery and The Big 3 will suffice. This will usually keep an avgerage system w/ 12.5-13.0 volts. Most amps will operate w/ at least 10 volts, however most manufacturers rate their power based on 14.4 volts.
It is a choice. I use good alternators b/c most of my systems are over 1000 wRMS, my 600.1 and 400.4 draw over 70 amps, the factory alternator is 105 peak. So I choose to spend a few dollars for the charging upgrade.
less
MrBrownstone on 09/15/2006 14:26:09
why don't we let Kayz talk first. it's a simple question, and let's not over-ANALyze it til we hear from him.
swez on 09/15/2006 21:00:33
Sure, that makes sense. However, I solicited to expand the topic as this one has been left hanging out there for a long time.
Too many assumptions are made "off the cuff" and frankly, we can always turn this into an Installer's Guide, DIY topic or FAQ.
If I had the tools to perform such tests, (H.D. Ammeter, O-Scope, Signal Generator, fixed load resistors and a big power supply) I would gladly do the work myself and post it after all data was compiled and double-checked.
Anyway, I will make a separate post and see who responds.
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/16/2006 00:25:15
until we determine how the system is going to be used, it's just mental....agitation.
swez on 09/16/2006 10:53:25
If one is aggitated by such things, just don't bother posting.
However, for those who really want to know how all this actually works in a given system install, then some well thought out testing and verifiable results would be of benefit or no?
swez
Victor on 09/16/2006 16:45:17
hehehehe.....sorry cant help but laugh at the way both u guys converse....
MrBrownstone on 09/16/2006 17:03:38
Swez
isn't the purpose to answer the kid's question? Y,N
How is a 3 page babble on Roosevelt's new deal helpful to that discussion?
lessismorespl on 09/16/2006 20:03:43
Yes, I guess my CEA/MECP Master Certification was a waste of money the past 13 years, as was my 5 years in college studying technology. Now I know why I left the first time, as well as why I no longer work in a shop. It really amazes me.
peace.
less
Victor on 09/16/2006 20:08:29
hey less.. u on yahoo???
swez on 09/16/2006 23:13:32
Quote: "Yes, I guess my CEA/MECP Master Certification was a waste of money the past 13 years, as was my 5 years in college studying technology. Now I know why I left the first time, as well as why I no longer work in a shop. It really amazes me."
Less, if I recall right, you challenged some big name Car Audio Guru on a subject and proved his erroronous points to be all bogus. It was done systematically, methodically and the results were pretty much black and white. (Just the facts Mame) I don't recall the specific topic or the "Guru" (Dave Navone?) you locked horns with. But I do recall you did the tests, noted your findings and pointed out the obvious errors in this "Guru's" point of view.
You were spot on with the results, but the "Guru" still fought back and stuck to his mis-guided beliefs and tried to trash your ideas. That took a lot of guts and that's what I admire in guys like you... we don't bend or back down when we "know" what we know to be true VS a bunch of BS?
Brian, we are not talking about any New Deals here. (Or are we?) We are talking about facts and how things really work in a given audio system install. It's not about bandaids, opinions and hear-say.
It is about defining, measuring and stating the facts as we uncover them. Then, we can publish our findings, state the results and make a case for what the best practices would be for a given install.
Why are we locked in this silly dance of egos? It would be better to collaberate, pool our knowledge and come to a concenses on how this all really works. If I had the tools, I would in fact do just that...
1. Set up the testing guidelines
2. Conduct the tests
3. Determine the facts VS suppositions
4. Verify the facts as repeatable
5. Report the findings
Is that too much to ask? Does this make any sense? Is this information really important? Will it serve a good purpose in the end? Judging from all the "static", maybe... maybe not???
Egads,
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/17/2006 00:52:08
My complaint Dave, is that you somehow need to post 3 pages of frank & beans over a simple question. What do we need the upgraded alternator for?
Not sure the CEA/MECP certification thingy had anything to do with this post, but we can all brag how long our yangs are til our girlfriends are blue in the face. Noone is questioning anyone's credentials, just let the kid with the stereo ask & answer a question.
Can ya do that Swez?
_______________________
I guess the real question is do you reall need a specialty alternator? Are you competing in DB Drag or something similar?
Victor on 09/17/2006 05:51:01
I have not noticed the guy who posted this question reply to this even once in this entire discussion...
I guess we should be patient and grab some mental peace till he replies.....
swez on 09/17/2006 10:04:19
Good idea Victor... I'll just put my end to bed and work on this when I can... alone. TYVM (Thank You Very Much) GRIN
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/17/2006 16:13:14
Victor
That was my point 8 posts ago.
Victor on 09/17/2006 16:34:40
hehehehehehehehehe... thats y i never said a single word regardign an "Alternator" on this post as yet....
Replies (18)
lessismorespl on 09/13/2006 20:16:06
I have used several over the years....H/O and Ohio are way over priced. Try going here and see if they have one for your make/model of car, they are much more affordable and make just as good of product:
http://www.motorcityreman.com
In most cases you can get a 170-200 amp alt. for under $250, not much more if they have to specifically build it for your vehicle. They handle most american made makes/models and some imports.
less
swez on 09/15/2006 01:01:08
MC-Reman, Stinger and Ohio Gen have been catching on to the price some guys are willing to pay for H.O. ALT's of late and their prices seem to be going outragous too.
You may find the trailer package 140/160A version to be adequate, depending on the amps and such used now. If not, check some of your local shops and see if they can gut and rebuilt your present ALT with H.O. parts. This is often cheaper than aftermarket ALT's as noted above.
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/15/2006 01:35:44
I guess the real question is do you reall need a specialty alternator? Are you competing in DB Drag or something similar?
lessismorespl on 09/15/2006 08:37:05
A rewind is usually $1-$2 per amp. I have always found Motorcity Reman reasonable, $219(200 amp/95 on idle) for my ford Taurus and $189(170 amp/90 on idle) for my Grand Am. Of course I'm not paying shipping b/c I go down state and pick them up. Sears sell 120 amp DieHard Golds which are brand new w/ a good warranty for about $130-$150.
In most cases we do not NEED an aftermarket alternator. However, many of us run more than one amp. In most cases a good battery and The Big 3 will suffice. This will usually keep an avgerage system w/ 12.5-13.0 volts. Most amps will operate w/ at least 10 volts, however most manufacturers rate their power based on 14.4 volts.
It is a choice. I use good alternators b/c most of my systems are over 1000 wRMS, my 600.1 and 400.4 draw over 70 amps, the factory alternator is 105 peak. So I choose to spend a few dollars for the charging upgrade.
less
MrBrownstone on 09/15/2006 14:26:09
why don't we let Kayz talk first. it's a simple question, and let's not over-ANALyze it til we hear from him.
swez on 09/15/2006 21:00:33
Sure, that makes sense. However, I solicited to expand the topic as this one has been left hanging out there for a long time.
Too many assumptions are made "off the cuff" and frankly, we can always turn this into an Installer's Guide, DIY topic or FAQ.
If I had the tools to perform such tests, (H.D. Ammeter, O-Scope, Signal Generator, fixed load resistors and a big power supply) I would gladly do the work myself and post it after all data was compiled and double-checked.
Anyway, I will make a separate post and see who responds.
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/16/2006 00:25:15
until we determine how the system is going to be used, it's just mental....agitation.
swez on 09/16/2006 10:53:25
If one is aggitated by such things, just don't bother posting.
However, for those who really want to know how all this actually works in a given system install, then some well thought out testing and verifiable results would be of benefit or no?
swez
Victor on 09/16/2006 16:45:17
hehehehe.....sorry cant help but laugh at the way both u guys converse....
MrBrownstone on 09/16/2006 17:03:38
Swez
isn't the purpose to answer the kid's question? Y,N
How is a 3 page babble on Roosevelt's new deal helpful to that discussion?
lessismorespl on 09/16/2006 20:03:43
Yes, I guess my CEA/MECP Master Certification was a waste of money the past 13 years, as was my 5 years in college studying technology. Now I know why I left the first time, as well as why I no longer work in a shop. It really amazes me.
peace.
less
Victor on 09/16/2006 20:08:29
hey less.. u on yahoo???
swez on 09/16/2006 23:13:32
Quote: "Yes, I guess my CEA/MECP Master Certification was a waste of money the past 13 years, as was my 5 years in college studying technology. Now I know why I left the first time, as well as why I no longer work in a shop. It really amazes me."
Less, if I recall right, you challenged some big name Car Audio Guru on a subject and proved his erroronous points to be all bogus. It was done systematically, methodically and the results were pretty much black and white. (Just the facts Mame) I don't recall the specific topic or the "Guru" (Dave Navone?) you locked horns with. But I do recall you did the tests, noted your findings and pointed out the obvious errors in this "Guru's" point of view.
You were spot on with the results, but the "Guru" still fought back and stuck to his mis-guided beliefs and tried to trash your ideas. That took a lot of guts and that's what I admire in guys like you... we don't bend or back down when we "know" what we know to be true VS a bunch of BS?
Brian, we are not talking about any New Deals here. (Or are we?) We are talking about facts and how things really work in a given audio system install. It's not about bandaids, opinions and hear-say.
It is about defining, measuring and stating the facts as we uncover them. Then, we can publish our findings, state the results and make a case for what the best practices would be for a given install.
Why are we locked in this silly dance of egos? It would be better to collaberate, pool our knowledge and come to a concenses on how this all really works. If I had the tools, I would in fact do just that...
1. Set up the testing guidelines
2. Conduct the tests
3. Determine the facts VS suppositions
4. Verify the facts as repeatable
5. Report the findings
Is that too much to ask? Does this make any sense? Is this information really important? Will it serve a good purpose in the end? Judging from all the "static", maybe... maybe not???
Egads,
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/17/2006 00:52:08
My complaint Dave, is that you somehow need to post 3 pages of frank & beans over a simple question. What do we need the upgraded alternator for?
Not sure the CEA/MECP certification thingy had anything to do with this post, but we can all brag how long our yangs are til our girlfriends are blue in the face. Noone is questioning anyone's credentials, just let the kid with the stereo ask & answer a question.
Can ya do that Swez?
_______________________
I guess the real question is do you reall need a specialty alternator? Are you competing in DB Drag or something similar?
Victor on 09/17/2006 05:51:01
I have not noticed the guy who posted this question reply to this even once in this entire discussion...
I guess we should be patient and grab some mental peace till he replies.....
swez on 09/17/2006 10:04:19
Good idea Victor... I'll just put my end to bed and work on this when I can... alone. TYVM (Thank You Very Much) GRIN
swez
MrBrownstone on 09/17/2006 16:13:14
Victor
That was my point 8 posts ago.
Victor on 09/17/2006 16:34:40
hehehehehehehehehe... thats y i never said a single word regardign an "Alternator" on this post as yet....
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
