im going with 2 jl 1000/1 and 4 w6 is that a good setup and what inside amp should i go with
Replies (8)
kaysneezye on 09/9/2006 18:45:42
Victor on 09/9/2006 19:46:06
2 jl 1000/1 with 4 w6 is going to be insane bass.. u will need some pretty strong setup in the mids/high section..
as well as the alt.. cause thats going to be a whole lotta current draw.. ur stock alt and batt will not be able to keep up with...
for an balanced SQL setup you will need atleast a 100wrms per channel amp and complementing component speakers too...
Victor...
swez on 09/9/2006 21:32:00
Wow, that's a lot of bass engine partner and to do a well balanced job, a 3rd amp will be needed for mid/highs like the JL 450/4.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=255
Also, there's the issue of adequate power from your truck electricals, to support all the current these amps will demand. At full power, each 1000/1 will draw very close to 100 amperes of current. The 450/4 is about 50 amperes more. So, add them all up and that a whopping 250 amperes just to fully power the amps.
This truck needs a minimum of 50 amps to operate all the main devices in it. That means a modified electrical system with about 300 amperes of current from the ALT and probably dual batteries too. That mod alone will cost about $750.00, plus the cost of your gear. Are you sure you want all that and ready to invest $3,000.00 + in this plan?
Comments?
Swez
kaysneezye on 09/9/2006 21:39:40
the answer is yes swez unless you can tell me a way too get some big bass with a brand you an trust im just trying to find a great system i can depend on plus i like jl audio
Victor on 09/9/2006 22:09:56
Where do you live, cause if any of our CK installers are near by, they could be a great help to u.
JL is definitely one of the few best brands in the market. There are a few more . Please elaborate on the speaker systems, the HU, the sound damping and enclosure plans if you have any.
you cant go wrong with a JL is you install and tweak them correctly. A professional approach would be needed to install and set up your system.
Victor..
PS. any good brand class D amp out there producing 1000wrms will atleast draw 80-100amp current at full power. there is nothing much you can do on this. until and unless you compensate the SPL by means of acoustical treatment and enclosure design. And that i see as the best way out here to save on some good money.
you can directly go from a 4 sub to a 2 sub setup and save on money and space.. adding each sub with the same power will only give u a rise of 6 db's ( 3db per sub).. if you aint competing this is not a huge of increase.. this can be acoustically acheived by sound damping the car with multiple layers and a good ported enclosure design.
a sound damping job wont cost you more than $200 vs The kind of money spent in buying another JL 1000/1 and 2 w6 subs...and also save a lot on the electrical upgrade ..
A 200 amp alt cost almost half the price of a 300amp alt...a single yellowtop battery , and a big 3 upgrade will be much cheaper than buying 2 of those batteries..
all these things count , and once cant just jump into buying extra equipment and keep them lying at home and then finalyl sell those over e-bay.
am not de-motivating you, but just letting you know the real efforts and planning that takes into making a nice system you can value for long.
swez on 09/9/2006 22:25:20
Ahhh, you are ready for the big games then. JL is a very solid choice and after installing a 500/1 and a 300/4 in a F-150 Super Crew Cab this spring, we all concluded there was enough power all the way around to blow ones ears out. (Rock Concert level SPL)
After the basic install, we began fine tuning and used and SPL meter that topped out at 126dB SPL. This system pegged the meter and at best guess, the bass was close to 135dB and the highs were in the 130dB range. He needed no extra BAT's or more than the stock 140A ALT. The only electrical mod that was done, was adding the "Big 3" wiring kit under the hood. Read here:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=
BTW, he used a single 10" sub, ported and it fit beautifully under the the rear passenger seat, behind the driver's position. This one:
http://www.proboxrocks.com/ford/04upf150supercab.shtml
This sub was strong fresh out of the box and after about a week of breaking in, it just got louder and deeper. If you wish to read of this guys' progress through the roughing it out to conclusion stage, here's the early dialogue we had for his install.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g4164
He settled on the 500/1 and the 10" ProBox, 500 RMS for his bass engine and it worked like a charm.
What made this install so efficient, was that he matted all doors and the rear divider panel too. This keeps the sound from leaking out the thin metal walls and keeps much of it in the cabin.
We also used 1/0 power wire from BAT to a Disty Block. JL does not have pre-intalled fuses, so a fused D-block is recommended. We used a non-fused D-block here, but added inline fuses for each amp. That all worked out fine, but a fused D-block is the way to go. All grounds were terminated to the same point in the back seat. A bare mental seatbelt bolt was perfect. We mounted both amps vertically on the rear wall, on the passenger side. A tight fit indeed, but it all worked out very nice.
If you want bass that can be heard from a block away, just roll down the windows and crack the rear vent window. Now, there's plenty of bass energy to pour out when you want to show it off.
Based on this expose', are you willing to scale things back a bit and still have plenty of power w/o major electrical upgrades? If you wanted more bass than this, add another 500/1 and sub to match.
FYI: When you double the amp wattage and add a 2nd sub, that's only +3dB more bass SPL. With a solid 135dB of bass already, is 138dB of bass really worth all the added efforts and expense?
Only if you want to compete in dB drags at the upper stages in Street Comp divisions.
What say you K?
Swez
emoboywyl on 09/10/2006 23:12:53
*sigh* jl
I just had to join this convo... swez, you understand =)
I just bought a 300/4, they're really great amps, you'll definatly be happy with it.
lessismorespl on 09/11/2006 17:28:14
Yes, I'm a big JL fan as well, and yes, the either of the slash series 4 channel amps, as well the XR Components would be great matches.
less
Replies (8)
kaysneezye on 09/9/2006 18:45:42
Victor on 09/9/2006 19:46:06
2 jl 1000/1 with 4 w6 is going to be insane bass.. u will need some pretty strong setup in the mids/high section..
as well as the alt.. cause thats going to be a whole lotta current draw.. ur stock alt and batt will not be able to keep up with...
for an balanced SQL setup you will need atleast a 100wrms per channel amp and complementing component speakers too...
Victor...
swez on 09/9/2006 21:32:00
Wow, that's a lot of bass engine partner and to do a well balanced job, a 3rd amp will be needed for mid/highs like the JL 450/4.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=255
Also, there's the issue of adequate power from your truck electricals, to support all the current these amps will demand. At full power, each 1000/1 will draw very close to 100 amperes of current. The 450/4 is about 50 amperes more. So, add them all up and that a whopping 250 amperes just to fully power the amps.
This truck needs a minimum of 50 amps to operate all the main devices in it. That means a modified electrical system with about 300 amperes of current from the ALT and probably dual batteries too. That mod alone will cost about $750.00, plus the cost of your gear. Are you sure you want all that and ready to invest $3,000.00 + in this plan?
Comments?
Swez
kaysneezye on 09/9/2006 21:39:40
the answer is yes swez unless you can tell me a way too get some big bass with a brand you an trust im just trying to find a great system i can depend on plus i like jl audio
Victor on 09/9/2006 22:09:56
Where do you live, cause if any of our CK installers are near by, they could be a great help to u.
JL is definitely one of the few best brands in the market. There are a few more . Please elaborate on the speaker systems, the HU, the sound damping and enclosure plans if you have any.
you cant go wrong with a JL is you install and tweak them correctly. A professional approach would be needed to install and set up your system.
Victor..
PS. any good brand class D amp out there producing 1000wrms will atleast draw 80-100amp current at full power. there is nothing much you can do on this. until and unless you compensate the SPL by means of acoustical treatment and enclosure design. And that i see as the best way out here to save on some good money.
you can directly go from a 4 sub to a 2 sub setup and save on money and space.. adding each sub with the same power will only give u a rise of 6 db's ( 3db per sub).. if you aint competing this is not a huge of increase.. this can be acoustically acheived by sound damping the car with multiple layers and a good ported enclosure design.
a sound damping job wont cost you more than $200 vs The kind of money spent in buying another JL 1000/1 and 2 w6 subs...and also save a lot on the electrical upgrade ..
A 200 amp alt cost almost half the price of a 300amp alt...a single yellowtop battery , and a big 3 upgrade will be much cheaper than buying 2 of those batteries..
all these things count , and once cant just jump into buying extra equipment and keep them lying at home and then finalyl sell those over e-bay.
am not de-motivating you, but just letting you know the real efforts and planning that takes into making a nice system you can value for long.
swez on 09/9/2006 22:25:20
Ahhh, you are ready for the big games then. JL is a very solid choice and after installing a 500/1 and a 300/4 in a F-150 Super Crew Cab this spring, we all concluded there was enough power all the way around to blow ones ears out. (Rock Concert level SPL)
After the basic install, we began fine tuning and used and SPL meter that topped out at 126dB SPL. This system pegged the meter and at best guess, the bass was close to 135dB and the highs were in the 130dB range. He needed no extra BAT's or more than the stock 140A ALT. The only electrical mod that was done, was adding the "Big 3" wiring kit under the hood. Read here:
http://forum.sounddomain.com/forum/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801;p=
BTW, he used a single 10" sub, ported and it fit beautifully under the the rear passenger seat, behind the driver's position. This one:
http://www.proboxrocks.com/ford/04upf150supercab.shtml
This sub was strong fresh out of the box and after about a week of breaking in, it just got louder and deeper. If you wish to read of this guys' progress through the roughing it out to conclusion stage, here's the early dialogue we had for his install.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g4164
He settled on the 500/1 and the 10" ProBox, 500 RMS for his bass engine and it worked like a charm.
What made this install so efficient, was that he matted all doors and the rear divider panel too. This keeps the sound from leaking out the thin metal walls and keeps much of it in the cabin.
We also used 1/0 power wire from BAT to a Disty Block. JL does not have pre-intalled fuses, so a fused D-block is recommended. We used a non-fused D-block here, but added inline fuses for each amp. That all worked out fine, but a fused D-block is the way to go. All grounds were terminated to the same point in the back seat. A bare mental seatbelt bolt was perfect. We mounted both amps vertically on the rear wall, on the passenger side. A tight fit indeed, but it all worked out very nice.
If you want bass that can be heard from a block away, just roll down the windows and crack the rear vent window. Now, there's plenty of bass energy to pour out when you want to show it off.
Based on this expose', are you willing to scale things back a bit and still have plenty of power w/o major electrical upgrades? If you wanted more bass than this, add another 500/1 and sub to match.
FYI: When you double the amp wattage and add a 2nd sub, that's only +3dB more bass SPL. With a solid 135dB of bass already, is 138dB of bass really worth all the added efforts and expense?
Only if you want to compete in dB drags at the upper stages in Street Comp divisions.
What say you K?
Swez
emoboywyl on 09/10/2006 23:12:53
*sigh* jl
I just had to join this convo... swez, you understand =)
I just bought a 300/4, they're really great amps, you'll definatly be happy with it.
lessismorespl on 09/11/2006 17:28:14
Yes, I'm a big JL fan as well, and yes, the either of the slash series 4 channel amps, as well the XR Components would be great matches.
less
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