well i was on here some time ago and then i didnt really kno what was goin, but now i have learned a little bit more and know what im talkin about somewhat..
i have looked into a lot of website and found some with stuff that i like and im lookin for some info about it.
Head Unit-
PANASONIC MXE CQ-C7413U - http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-06-PANASONIC-MXE-CQ-C7413U-CD-MP3-MOTORIZED-PLAYER_W0QQitemZ290023402437QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50560QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Subs- AudioBahn 12" Flame Q-
http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=AW1206T
Amp- havent found one that i know will be suitable, suggestions? this is the area where i am havin trouble learnin how it works and what to look for.
i was intending on gettin a hu now and waitin til chrismas to get other stuff but then i found those subs and thought they were a good deal, they're on sale and i wanted to be sure to catch the deal when i could..
Replies (7)
swez on 09/3/2006 18:40:11
This is a nice HU for under $200.00. The e-bay seller uses a bit too much hype in his ad, but the features are very nice and you can find this HU off other sites for under $200.00 with a warranty and shipping. look here:
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=18072807&search=panasonic+cq+c7413u
The sub noted is OK for the price. However, one does not need a huge amp to power this sub either. Just 1 sub is plenty and you can use a Class D type MONO amp with 500 - 1000 watts RMS power @ 2 ohms for very strong bass results.
Here's the box specs:
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: .5 - 1.25 cu.ft. (1.0 -1.2 cf is ideal)
Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.3 - 3.2 cu.ft (2.0 - 2.6 cf is good here)
Plan ahead and take your time as you build your ultimate system around this gear!!!
This sub is strong and your mid/highs will need outboard amping to keep up with it. (50-100 RMS x 2 or 4) That also means adequate power from the vehicle electricals, to not only power our amps, but to also have enough reserve for the other devices we use a lot. (Ie: Lights, A/C, blower motor, window defoggers and all the other basics too)
If you run a pair of these subs, think hard as you'll need a very strong amp to power them and is capable of handling a 1 ohm load. (Some Class D's will, most do not) The ones that will, are not only expensive to buy, but tax the elctrical system pretty hard as well. In this case, a pair of Class D's is a good option. (One amp per sub) Here's a nice amp package to go with your Bahn sub. If you buy 2 subs, buy 2 amps:
http://www.caraudiodeals.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_29&products_id=605
Save your pennies if you go this route. Electrical upgrades will be needed and this become a very expensive, long-term program that can be done in segments. (Dual sub/amp combo for subs only)
Comments?
Swez
lukeduke28 on 09/4/2006 00:42:51
so 2 of them is a bad idea?...well i figured that 2 of them would bump more than just one.
so would i need another battery to power it?
what are mid/highs and how would i amp them up?
emoboywyl on 09/4/2006 01:12:49
the mids/highs are your normal speakers, the ones you listen to now without the sub.
The reason they're referred to as such is because they're designed to play the mid and high levels more so than the lows/bass
You'd need a decent 4 or 2 channel amp to power them, 2 sets of RCA's and 4 sets of speaker wire, run the RCA's and power like you will for your sub amp.
There are a few different ways to run the speaker wire. You can either run new wire to each speaker; run the wire behind the HU and use the factory speaker leads there; or combine the front and back speaker wires for each side, so left front/left rear and right front/right rear from behind the HU, connect the speaker wire from the amp to the rear speaker wire in the trunk and run new wire to the rear speakers.
The last one is a little more complicated, saves you running speaker wire up the car, but it's highly recommended if you're going for a quality install.
2 subs aren't going to bump any harder if you're not powering them properly. Basically, if you're getting 50% power to each, or 100% power to one, you're going to get better sound from one.
emoboywyl on 09/4/2006 01:13:13
oops, I meant not highly recommended
swez on 09/4/2006 11:51:26
Mind editing your post on the HU &sub links. Hopefully, it will resize the page. Like this:
HU: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=7034
Sub: http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=AW1206T
Yes, one sub will definitely do the job in a well designed enclosure. Ported would be best for deep lows and above average SPL with a modest sub amp. Then, you would not have to be so concerned about power management in this vehicle. (105A Stock ALT is typical)
You can have the factory ALT modified (175A's is good) for more output and be OK. Then, use the "Big 3 Upgrade" wiring system to allow more power to flow in the car as well. This won't be cheap either. (Figure about $250.00 for the ALT)
Here's the breakdown:
1. A 1000 watt RMS sub amp will draw less than 80A's at full power
2. A solid 75 x 4 full range amp needs less than 35A's
3. Your vehicle needs a solid 40-50A's to operate the basics properly
In this scenario, a single ported sub will get you close to 140dB of bass SPL. Considering a typical live concert is about 120-130dB near the stage, that's a lot of bass engine power in a confined vehicle. That's one reason why a single sub is plenty here.
The other is power management. A very strong amp that can deliver say 1,500 - 2,000 watts @ 1 ohm to a pair of these subs, will draw between 120 -150A's of current alone. The net SPL will only be 3-5 more dB of SPL and very expensive electrical upgrades as well. Does a $500.00 ALT and electrical upgrade bill make that worth while?
Then, figure a H.O. battery is in the mix too. An 800-1,000 CCA rated BAT will set you back about $175.00. A stock 550 - 650 CCA will work very hard to keep up and not last very long either. So, add it all up and ask the magic $64,000 question... "How much is all this worth to turn a car into a rolling boom box?"
OK, there's the basics for ya. Only you can determine how this will all shake down. The good news here, it can be done is stages. Just plan ahead, use the wallet as your guide and take time to choose your gear well the first time out and when it's all done, you'll be a very proud and happy camper.
Swez
lukeduke28 on 09/7/2006 21:53:57
so, what kind of amp would i need to power the mid/highs?
or would the A8000V power them too?
would i need a new set of 4x6's and 6x9's?
swez on 09/7/2006 23:49:18
Can you list everything you have now for speakers, amps, sub(s) and HU?
The 4x6's are fine for midrange above about 300 Hz. Dash or door mounted here? Just don't expect any real midbass from them as they are too small a cone to get the job done, regardless of power you throw at them.
The 6x9's will do nice as midbass/midrange and highs if you like. These will help blend and fill in the gaps that the 4x6's cannot deliver up front.
Once we are clear on speakers you wish to use, then we can look at amps to power your full range speakers. After that's put to bed, then looking at a bass engine that makes sense will follow.
Swez
i have looked into a lot of website and found some with stuff that i like and im lookin for some info about it.
Head Unit-
PANASONIC MXE CQ-C7413U - http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-06-PANASONIC-MXE-CQ-C7413U-CD-MP3-MOTORIZED-PLAYER_W0QQitemZ290023402437QQihZ019QQcategoryZ50560QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Subs- AudioBahn 12" Flame Q-
http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=AW1206T
Amp- havent found one that i know will be suitable, suggestions? this is the area where i am havin trouble learnin how it works and what to look for.
i was intending on gettin a hu now and waitin til chrismas to get other stuff but then i found those subs and thought they were a good deal, they're on sale and i wanted to be sure to catch the deal when i could..
Replies (7)
swez on 09/3/2006 18:40:11
This is a nice HU for under $200.00. The e-bay seller uses a bit too much hype in his ad, but the features are very nice and you can find this HU off other sites for under $200.00 with a warranty and shipping. look here:
http://www.pricegrabber.com/search_getprod.php?masterid=18072807&search=panasonic+cq+c7413u
The sub noted is OK for the price. However, one does not need a huge amp to power this sub either. Just 1 sub is plenty and you can use a Class D type MONO amp with 500 - 1000 watts RMS power @ 2 ohms for very strong bass results.
Here's the box specs:
Rec. Sealed Box Dims: .5 - 1.25 cu.ft. (1.0 -1.2 cf is ideal)
Rec. Ported Box Dims: 1.3 - 3.2 cu.ft (2.0 - 2.6 cf is good here)
Plan ahead and take your time as you build your ultimate system around this gear!!!
This sub is strong and your mid/highs will need outboard amping to keep up with it. (50-100 RMS x 2 or 4) That also means adequate power from the vehicle electricals, to not only power our amps, but to also have enough reserve for the other devices we use a lot. (Ie: Lights, A/C, blower motor, window defoggers and all the other basics too)
If you run a pair of these subs, think hard as you'll need a very strong amp to power them and is capable of handling a 1 ohm load. (Some Class D's will, most do not) The ones that will, are not only expensive to buy, but tax the elctrical system pretty hard as well. In this case, a pair of Class D's is a good option. (One amp per sub) Here's a nice amp package to go with your Bahn sub. If you buy 2 subs, buy 2 amps:
http://www.caraudiodeals.com/product_info.php?cPath=28_29&products_id=605
Save your pennies if you go this route. Electrical upgrades will be needed and this become a very expensive, long-term program that can be done in segments. (Dual sub/amp combo for subs only)
Comments?
Swez
lukeduke28 on 09/4/2006 00:42:51
so 2 of them is a bad idea?...well i figured that 2 of them would bump more than just one.
so would i need another battery to power it?
what are mid/highs and how would i amp them up?
emoboywyl on 09/4/2006 01:12:49
the mids/highs are your normal speakers, the ones you listen to now without the sub.
The reason they're referred to as such is because they're designed to play the mid and high levels more so than the lows/bass
You'd need a decent 4 or 2 channel amp to power them, 2 sets of RCA's and 4 sets of speaker wire, run the RCA's and power like you will for your sub amp.
There are a few different ways to run the speaker wire. You can either run new wire to each speaker; run the wire behind the HU and use the factory speaker leads there; or combine the front and back speaker wires for each side, so left front/left rear and right front/right rear from behind the HU, connect the speaker wire from the amp to the rear speaker wire in the trunk and run new wire to the rear speakers.
The last one is a little more complicated, saves you running speaker wire up the car, but it's highly recommended if you're going for a quality install.
2 subs aren't going to bump any harder if you're not powering them properly. Basically, if you're getting 50% power to each, or 100% power to one, you're going to get better sound from one.
emoboywyl on 09/4/2006 01:13:13
oops, I meant not highly recommended
swez on 09/4/2006 11:51:26
Mind editing your post on the HU &sub links. Hopefully, it will resize the page. Like this:
HU: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=7034
Sub: http://www.cardiscountstereos.com/catalog%20page.asp?Product+%23=AW1206T
Yes, one sub will definitely do the job in a well designed enclosure. Ported would be best for deep lows and above average SPL with a modest sub amp. Then, you would not have to be so concerned about power management in this vehicle. (105A Stock ALT is typical)
You can have the factory ALT modified (175A's is good) for more output and be OK. Then, use the "Big 3 Upgrade" wiring system to allow more power to flow in the car as well. This won't be cheap either. (Figure about $250.00 for the ALT)
Here's the breakdown:
1. A 1000 watt RMS sub amp will draw less than 80A's at full power
2. A solid 75 x 4 full range amp needs less than 35A's
3. Your vehicle needs a solid 40-50A's to operate the basics properly
In this scenario, a single ported sub will get you close to 140dB of bass SPL. Considering a typical live concert is about 120-130dB near the stage, that's a lot of bass engine power in a confined vehicle. That's one reason why a single sub is plenty here.
The other is power management. A very strong amp that can deliver say 1,500 - 2,000 watts @ 1 ohm to a pair of these subs, will draw between 120 -150A's of current alone. The net SPL will only be 3-5 more dB of SPL and very expensive electrical upgrades as well. Does a $500.00 ALT and electrical upgrade bill make that worth while?
Then, figure a H.O. battery is in the mix too. An 800-1,000 CCA rated BAT will set you back about $175.00. A stock 550 - 650 CCA will work very hard to keep up and not last very long either. So, add it all up and ask the magic $64,000 question... "How much is all this worth to turn a car into a rolling boom box?"
OK, there's the basics for ya. Only you can determine how this will all shake down. The good news here, it can be done is stages. Just plan ahead, use the wallet as your guide and take time to choose your gear well the first time out and when it's all done, you'll be a very proud and happy camper.
Swez
lukeduke28 on 09/7/2006 21:53:57
so, what kind of amp would i need to power the mid/highs?
or would the A8000V power them too?
would i need a new set of 4x6's and 6x9's?
swez on 09/7/2006 23:49:18
Can you list everything you have now for speakers, amps, sub(s) and HU?
The 4x6's are fine for midrange above about 300 Hz. Dash or door mounted here? Just don't expect any real midbass from them as they are too small a cone to get the job done, regardless of power you throw at them.
The 6x9's will do nice as midbass/midrange and highs if you like. These will help blend and fill in the gaps that the 4x6's cannot deliver up front.
Once we are clear on speakers you wish to use, then we can look at amps to power your full range speakers. After that's put to bed, then looking at a bass engine that makes sense will follow.
Swez
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