Ok i have an orion h2 12.2 and im about to buy a 2300 w amp. The problem is that I drive a regular cab truck and i cant afford a blow-thru. I was going to build a box for my bed and I wanted to know if im going to hear the sub at a decent volume.
Replies (13)
ttocs on 09/2/2006 02:52:16
yer gonna put it in the bed, with out a blow thru?
swez on 09/2/2006 10:08:17
It's like a sedan with subs in the trunk KC. You'll hear it and so will everybody else. Hope you have a cover for that bed as any who hear you coming, are potential shoppers at the Midnight autoparts store.
These shoppers are very bold and come at night, take your gear and don't leave a payment, credit card or I.O.U. Basically, when these shoppers work, you're S.O.L.
Swez
kcdakrt on 09/2/2006 13:44:16
yeah ive got a sealed cover
Ash on 09/3/2006 09:06:40
Subs in bed? I always loved feeling the beat but dang! I think my girl will get jealous and leave me If I were to get caught trying that one! GRIN
ttocs on 09/3/2006 13:59:34
if your subs are in the bed, and you have a sealed bed cover, then it will do you no good at all as the poeple around you will hear it more then you will. Have you ever covered the port of a bandpass box? WHen you do no air is able to move, and no sound either.
kcdakrt on 09/3/2006 17:33:47
wlee is there any alternative to cutting a huge hole in my cab?
swez on 09/3/2006 19:07:25
Yes, but it takes some very creative fitting of subs, behind the front seats.
Does this truck have a full bench seat or a 60/40 split seat buckets? How much space is available after the driver's seat is in a comfortable position?
This sub is designed for very compact enclosures. In a sealed box, you can do well with 1.0 cf/sub. If ported, 1.25/sub cf is solid low bass and minimal space required. (Ports are long here, so flexible 3" ducts are needed to snake into a small chamber. See the link below for specs and details on sealed, ported designs and respective power handling and ducting needs:
http://www.orioncaraudio.com/subwoofers/sub_H2_series.asp#specifications
Swez
ttocs on 09/4/2006 11:43:30
isn't this the model that has the extendable bed? If that is the case I have seen systems built with the subs mounting to the vehicle the same way the piece on the back, bottom of the bed does. This allows the subs to be in the bed, while playing into the cab. I believe the one I saw was still removable and they kept the original piece if they needed to use it.
kcdakrt on 09/5/2006 16:08:38
the seats are split and i was thinking about a fiberglass enclosure. there is only 7 inches from the seat to the back wall
swez on 09/5/2006 20:09:12
Hummm, that's a tall order for these subs. The mounting depth is more than 8.0 inches as we have to consider the air cooling needs if these are vented through the back of the magnet as well. Comments?
Was thinking about this one a bit and wondering if a chuted conduit can be fabricated here. The idea is to mount the subs in the bed, (up-firing) and make a custom air duct system that feeds sub output up to your rear window and into the cabin. However, it will have to be water proof, well fitted to your rear window and not interfere with your bed cover. It will not only have to look neat, but have to function well too. (Getting a mental picture of this idea?) This might not be cheap or easy either. (Depending on the bed cover you have now)
The only other route with these subs, is a pass through hole from the truck bed to your cab. You are well aware of the costs, fabrication and materials to do this one well. This is a very good option in many ways, but not a cheap one either.
The only other option here, would be to scale back on the subs used and power to same. A bank of strong 8's/10's subs might be a good option here. (3-4 of them) Here, you can employ a semi-wedge box design that runs along the back wall. Here, the sub enclosure can be scaled to about 6.5" deep and most 8's and some 10's will fit in that depth with careful design and planning.
The speakers will have to be a shallow mount style basket, and each sub would be able to handle at least 250 watts RMS. That's 1000 + watts of amping power and if done well, you will have plenty of bass in the cabin.
If you are remotely interested in this plan, will need a detailed set of measurments of the space you have on the back wall of this truck. That would entail maximim depth at the base of the wedge, (<7.0" yes?) top of box wedge and maximum height you can go w/o compromising seat position for the driver's side.
If this has appeal, we can look at subs that might be usable in the space you have now. It won't be easy... but with careful measuring, fabrication and sub selection, this might be your best option w/o extensive cab/bed cutting and fabrications.
What say you?
Swez
lilschtive on 09/5/2006 20:25:52
i put subs in the back of my pickup, and i can't even hear them bump even though the sub is in an enclosure.
kcdakrt on 09/5/2006 23:41:38
well i was thinking about low profile subs(pioneer,power acoustik). i could put two 12s behimd the seats and run an amp in between them
swez on 09/6/2006 14:32:39
Yes, a shallow basket sub kit will work. Pioneer, Kole Audio and PA all make some pretty strong subs. The Kole and PA subs can take more power then Pioneer's offering, if you want that much bass.
http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/powstw12.html (PA)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lPzBu5kzEOV/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&tab=detailed_info&i=130TSS3041#Tab (Pioneer)
http://www.justwoofers.com/ (Kole)
Swez
Replies (13)
ttocs on 09/2/2006 02:52:16
yer gonna put it in the bed, with out a blow thru?
swez on 09/2/2006 10:08:17
It's like a sedan with subs in the trunk KC. You'll hear it and so will everybody else. Hope you have a cover for that bed as any who hear you coming, are potential shoppers at the Midnight autoparts store.
These shoppers are very bold and come at night, take your gear and don't leave a payment, credit card or I.O.U. Basically, when these shoppers work, you're S.O.L.
Swez
kcdakrt on 09/2/2006 13:44:16
yeah ive got a sealed cover
Ash on 09/3/2006 09:06:40
Subs in bed? I always loved feeling the beat but dang! I think my girl will get jealous and leave me If I were to get caught trying that one! GRIN
ttocs on 09/3/2006 13:59:34
if your subs are in the bed, and you have a sealed bed cover, then it will do you no good at all as the poeple around you will hear it more then you will. Have you ever covered the port of a bandpass box? WHen you do no air is able to move, and no sound either.
kcdakrt on 09/3/2006 17:33:47
wlee is there any alternative to cutting a huge hole in my cab?
swez on 09/3/2006 19:07:25
Yes, but it takes some very creative fitting of subs, behind the front seats.
Does this truck have a full bench seat or a 60/40 split seat buckets? How much space is available after the driver's seat is in a comfortable position?
This sub is designed for very compact enclosures. In a sealed box, you can do well with 1.0 cf/sub. If ported, 1.25/sub cf is solid low bass and minimal space required. (Ports are long here, so flexible 3" ducts are needed to snake into a small chamber. See the link below for specs and details on sealed, ported designs and respective power handling and ducting needs:
http://www.orioncaraudio.com/subwoofers/sub_H2_series.asp#specifications
Swez
ttocs on 09/4/2006 11:43:30
isn't this the model that has the extendable bed? If that is the case I have seen systems built with the subs mounting to the vehicle the same way the piece on the back, bottom of the bed does. This allows the subs to be in the bed, while playing into the cab. I believe the one I saw was still removable and they kept the original piece if they needed to use it.
kcdakrt on 09/5/2006 16:08:38
the seats are split and i was thinking about a fiberglass enclosure. there is only 7 inches from the seat to the back wall
swez on 09/5/2006 20:09:12
Hummm, that's a tall order for these subs. The mounting depth is more than 8.0 inches as we have to consider the air cooling needs if these are vented through the back of the magnet as well. Comments?
Was thinking about this one a bit and wondering if a chuted conduit can be fabricated here. The idea is to mount the subs in the bed, (up-firing) and make a custom air duct system that feeds sub output up to your rear window and into the cabin. However, it will have to be water proof, well fitted to your rear window and not interfere with your bed cover. It will not only have to look neat, but have to function well too. (Getting a mental picture of this idea?) This might not be cheap or easy either. (Depending on the bed cover you have now)
The only other route with these subs, is a pass through hole from the truck bed to your cab. You are well aware of the costs, fabrication and materials to do this one well. This is a very good option in many ways, but not a cheap one either.
The only other option here, would be to scale back on the subs used and power to same. A bank of strong 8's/10's subs might be a good option here. (3-4 of them) Here, you can employ a semi-wedge box design that runs along the back wall. Here, the sub enclosure can be scaled to about 6.5" deep and most 8's and some 10's will fit in that depth with careful design and planning.
The speakers will have to be a shallow mount style basket, and each sub would be able to handle at least 250 watts RMS. That's 1000 + watts of amping power and if done well, you will have plenty of bass in the cabin.
If you are remotely interested in this plan, will need a detailed set of measurments of the space you have on the back wall of this truck. That would entail maximim depth at the base of the wedge, (<7.0" yes?) top of box wedge and maximum height you can go w/o compromising seat position for the driver's side.
If this has appeal, we can look at subs that might be usable in the space you have now. It won't be easy... but with careful measuring, fabrication and sub selection, this might be your best option w/o extensive cab/bed cutting and fabrications.
What say you?
Swez
lilschtive on 09/5/2006 20:25:52
i put subs in the back of my pickup, and i can't even hear them bump even though the sub is in an enclosure.
kcdakrt on 09/5/2006 23:41:38
well i was thinking about low profile subs(pioneer,power acoustik). i could put two 12s behimd the seats and run an amp in between them
swez on 09/6/2006 14:32:39
Yes, a shallow basket sub kit will work. Pioneer, Kole Audio and PA all make some pretty strong subs. The Kole and PA subs can take more power then Pioneer's offering, if you want that much bass.
http://www.sjgreatdeals.com/powstw12.html (PA)
http://www.crutchfield.com/S-lPzBu5kzEOV/cgi-bin/ProdView.asp?g=520&tab=detailed_info&i=130TSS3041#Tab (Pioneer)
http://www.justwoofers.com/ (Kole)
Swez
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