i recently just reinstalled an amp kit for my JL 500/1 mono amp as my old wires shorted out. only i have a problem now maybe you can help with! my amp turns on and has power but my 2 jl w3's are not working, i read the troubleshoot for the amp and it said its possible theres not enough voltage getting to it from the head unit, and there wasnt im only getting 137 millivolts and im pretty sure i need more. Is there any way you can help!
Replies (26)
ttocs on 08/14/2006 19:22:29
you need to start checking the voltage from the battery back... Check at the fuse holder on both sides.
UKinstaller on 08/14/2006 20:47:17
it's either:
1) blown subs
2) blown outputs on amplifier
3) bad RCA jacks
4) blown outputs on head unit
get a dummy set of RCA jacks and just run them from your radio directly to your amp, don't hide them or anything. just get a set you know is good and see if you get sound. if you get sound, it's a problem w/ your RCA's, if you don't, it's something else.
also, try using the high level inputs on the amp and see if you get anything. just tap into the speaker wires coming out of your head unit.
try those, if that doesn't work, i'll give you some more stuff to try to narrow the problem down.
-UK
Scttpnk23 on 08/15/2006 09:37:47
i think i may have just come to the conclusion that my amp needs to be repaired... because it was getting really hot in a certain spot yesterday while i was working on it. do you think it could be a blown fuse inside the amp?
ttocs on 08/15/2006 10:59:37
a fuse normally doesn't make it hot.....
Does the amp turn on? Which wire burned up and why?
Scttpnk23 on 08/15/2006 12:27:58
Yeah the amp turns on... as to which wire burned up im not quite sure what you mean... possibly the remote wire... (is that possible)? im not really sure but yesterday i noticed that the thermal light would flicker on... not sure what that means either
ttocs on 08/15/2006 18:23:11
that means it is too hot. Disconnect the speakers from the amp..
Victor on 08/15/2006 18:46:59
what sub are these??? 12w3v3 or 12w3v2 and what is the impedence on each sub, is it a dvc, cause these subs are available in variable versions..
what i see here is the subs wired for a load that the amp is incapable of handling.
comments...??
Victor...
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 09:47:08
possibly but i had my amp benched yesterday and bascially my amp is fried. there is input but no output and it just starts to over heat. so i suppose im on the search for a new amp... unless anyone knows where to get my old one repaired and not be to expensive!
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 09:50:29
to answer you question victor i believe i have the 12w3v2-D2 I believe the impedence on them is 2 ohms
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 10:20:05
What usually causes an amp to fry? i just want to know so the next amp i get i dont fry it as well
swez on 08/16/2006 10:58:44
Most amp fry due to abuse. In most cases, a shorted output will cause the amp to go into thermal/short protect mode.
The other common failure, is using subs that are too low in ohmic values and excess gain settings on the amp. This create excessive heat and fries internal power transistors and preamp driver too. JL has good thermal, low voltage and short protection circuits. It takes a lot to fry one. However, they are not bullet fool proof either.
In your case, it might be worth a call to JL and ask now much they charge to refurbish the amp to factory specs. If you can get it done for 1/2 the price of a replacement amp, it's well worth repairing. (Say... $200 - 250.00)
One mistake that will blow an amp ASAP, is mis-wiring the power feeds. If one reverses the polarity of the power and ground wires when connecting an amp, this will toast the amp as soon as power is applied. We normally see the release of much "Magic Smoke" when this one happens. That's a sure sign the amp needs repairs. (Gotta get that Magic Smoke back into the amp, and that's not easy or cheap)
Swez
PS I have not removed the covers on a JL amp yet. They don't have fuses in the outer case, but may have a few inside. When fusing these amps for use, need an inline fuse or a fused Distribution power block.
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 11:04:16
hmm... the part where the hight gains and low ohmic values makes sense and is what i think exactly what happend. there isnt any way to fix something like this by myself is there?
ttocs on 08/16/2006 11:12:04
I'll give ya $50 fer yer blown amp?
swez on 08/16/2006 11:24:22
Fixing this amp yourself, would require a solid working knowledge of electronic circuit testing, diagnostics and repairs. The tools are also key. Need a good 2 channel O-Scope, signal tracer, Tone generator, VOM and a regulated power supply, that can give a solid 12.5 - 14.0 volts DC and maybe 60 amps of current too.
Ttocs' answer tells me he knows something he's not sharing. That amp is well worth repairing and when done by JL factory techs, it will perfrom like new for a long time to come.
Sorry ttocs... you're secrets are not safe here... hehe GRIN Not on my watch bubba...
Swez
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 13:13:36
Yeah they just told me that they could repair it for 180 and if they couldnt they would replace it! so its a great deal i guess... how do i prevent this problem from happening in the future?
ttocs on 08/16/2006 13:23:17
I know a guy that fixes amps and does a great job, and does it in trade for Dr Pepper, no joke.....
I would have to say that a JL amp is worth repairing and if they will warrenty it then heck ya..... You need to check your wiring and make sure nothing is shorted out.
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 14:12:16
i suppose he wouldn't cut me a deal if i sent him some Dr. pepper and some money would he?
Scttpnk23 on 08/17/2006 10:03:39
allright so i have decided to get my amp fixed by the JL manufactures.... when i get it back does anyone know any good settings or tips on setting my amp so i can prevent this from happening again?
swez on 08/17/2006 12:41:21
The JL web site has a very detailed set up process for these amps. It's very comprehensive and best to study it well, while you amp is being repaired. Here's the link:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/6986.pdf
Swez
PS We need to know what sub version you have now and how they are wired. The amp will handle 1.5 - 4.0 ohm loads and deliver 500 watts RMS to any load in that range. If the subs are below 1.5 ohms now, amp will shut down. If the subs are higher than 4 ohms, power to them will be less than 500 RMS.
Scttpnk23 on 08/18/2006 13:25:30
i have 2 12w3v2D2.... what exactly do you mean by wired? i have the subs bridged together and then run to the amp.... im not sure if this is good or why they are like that
swez on 08/18/2006 14:35:41
These are 2 ohm, DVC subs. The best way to wire them correctly for your amp is noted on the following link:
http://img8.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
This is called a "Series/Parallel" wiring configuration. Here, the amp sees a net 2 ohm load and safe for your JL 500/1 or most Class D Mono sub amps out there.
FYI: If you have an ohmeter, measure the ohmic value at the speaker termination cup in your sub box. It should read slightly below 2 ohms and that's OK.
However, if you see a number well below 1.5 ohms, the subs are not wired together properly and that may have caused your problems with the amp.
Note: If each sub has its own wire connection to the amp, (2 pair of speaker lines) then each sub should read just under 4ohms with your meter. If they read below 2 ohms, a rewire is needed. This diagram is your guide for wiring each sub to its own line to amp:
http://img8.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img8&image=1dvcseries7va.jpg
Swez
PS If the diagram looks garbled and hard to read, just hit the refresh on your tool bar and that should clear things up. Print out a copy of each diagram for references and use them as you look at the sub wiring used in this box.
Scttpnk23 on 08/18/2006 14:49:32
But i think i have 2 (+) and 2 (-) ports on my amp?
swez on 08/18/2006 17:42:39
Yes, you do. Two sets are there for ease of wiring. However, only one pair is needed, depending on how the sub(s) is/are wired to the amp or each other.
Are we a bit confused here? Many get a bit rattled with DVC subs in the beginning and if that's the case, we can go slower if needed.
Can you determine how the subs are presently wired?
1. Each sub has a separate pair of wires that go to an amp output terminal. (2 pair of speaker wires, out of the box)
2. The subs are wired together inside the box and only 1 pair of speaker wires go to the amp.
Knowing this we can proceed.
Swez
PS Amps are "BRIDGED", (2 channels linked together for greater output) but subs are not "bridged".
Subs are often wired in combinations of parallel, series or series/parallel. (not bridged)
swez on 08/19/2006 08:10:39
Sorry Victor, but t hat reply is confusing the issue a bit.
This gentleman has a pair of 2+2 DVC's (JL 12W3v2-D2's) and a JL amp (500/1) that can put out the same power to loads that range between 1.5 - 4.0 ohms.
The best/easiest way to wire these subs for the JL 500/1 or most other Class D amp are to:
1. Wire sub #1 voice coils in series (4 ohms)
2. Wire sub #2 voice coils in series (4 ohms)
3. Wire each sub to its own output lug set on the amp
This provides a solid 2 ohm load to the amp used. Here's a good wiring tuitorial from JL: (Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms)
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel, is the configuration to use here.
Hope that helps,
Swez
Victor on 08/19/2006 09:10:10
I agree, tho whatever i said is right,,, the example and the explanation are a bit confusing.. lemme just delete it so that our guy here doesnt have an issue understanding it..
Victor....
swez on 08/19/2006 16:18:05
Good IDEA Victor... Your explanation was correct and yes, after reading it 3 flippin times, I managed to deceifer it all out. But, it did confuse the daylights out of me as well. GRIN
As we both know, when dealing with new & emerging talent, K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Sallie) is the best plan.
(No, I do not mean KISS as in Gene Simmons and clan) Remember those wild guys in weird costumes from the mid-80's? "Detroit, Rock City"
Dant, dad-da da, dant...
Da dah daaaa, dant dad-da de, dant!!!
Yeah, that one.
Swez
PS Too little sleep and too much coffee, are making Ol Swez a bit punchy.
PSS Uhmmm Scott, after this post, are you sure you want my help? SMILE
Replies (26)
ttocs on 08/14/2006 19:22:29
you need to start checking the voltage from the battery back... Check at the fuse holder on both sides.
UKinstaller on 08/14/2006 20:47:17
it's either:
1) blown subs
2) blown outputs on amplifier
3) bad RCA jacks
4) blown outputs on head unit
get a dummy set of RCA jacks and just run them from your radio directly to your amp, don't hide them or anything. just get a set you know is good and see if you get sound. if you get sound, it's a problem w/ your RCA's, if you don't, it's something else.
also, try using the high level inputs on the amp and see if you get anything. just tap into the speaker wires coming out of your head unit.
try those, if that doesn't work, i'll give you some more stuff to try to narrow the problem down.
-UK
Scttpnk23 on 08/15/2006 09:37:47
i think i may have just come to the conclusion that my amp needs to be repaired... because it was getting really hot in a certain spot yesterday while i was working on it. do you think it could be a blown fuse inside the amp?
ttocs on 08/15/2006 10:59:37
a fuse normally doesn't make it hot.....
Does the amp turn on? Which wire burned up and why?
Scttpnk23 on 08/15/2006 12:27:58
Yeah the amp turns on... as to which wire burned up im not quite sure what you mean... possibly the remote wire... (is that possible)? im not really sure but yesterday i noticed that the thermal light would flicker on... not sure what that means either
ttocs on 08/15/2006 18:23:11
that means it is too hot. Disconnect the speakers from the amp..
Victor on 08/15/2006 18:46:59
what sub are these??? 12w3v3 or 12w3v2 and what is the impedence on each sub, is it a dvc, cause these subs are available in variable versions..
what i see here is the subs wired for a load that the amp is incapable of handling.
comments...??
Victor...
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 09:47:08
possibly but i had my amp benched yesterday and bascially my amp is fried. there is input but no output and it just starts to over heat. so i suppose im on the search for a new amp... unless anyone knows where to get my old one repaired and not be to expensive!
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 09:50:29
to answer you question victor i believe i have the 12w3v2-D2 I believe the impedence on them is 2 ohms
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 10:20:05
What usually causes an amp to fry? i just want to know so the next amp i get i dont fry it as well
swez on 08/16/2006 10:58:44
Most amp fry due to abuse. In most cases, a shorted output will cause the amp to go into thermal/short protect mode.
The other common failure, is using subs that are too low in ohmic values and excess gain settings on the amp. This create excessive heat and fries internal power transistors and preamp driver too. JL has good thermal, low voltage and short protection circuits. It takes a lot to fry one. However, they are not bullet fool proof either.
In your case, it might be worth a call to JL and ask now much they charge to refurbish the amp to factory specs. If you can get it done for 1/2 the price of a replacement amp, it's well worth repairing. (Say... $200 - 250.00)
One mistake that will blow an amp ASAP, is mis-wiring the power feeds. If one reverses the polarity of the power and ground wires when connecting an amp, this will toast the amp as soon as power is applied. We normally see the release of much "Magic Smoke" when this one happens. That's a sure sign the amp needs repairs. (Gotta get that Magic Smoke back into the amp, and that's not easy or cheap)
Swez
PS I have not removed the covers on a JL amp yet. They don't have fuses in the outer case, but may have a few inside. When fusing these amps for use, need an inline fuse or a fused Distribution power block.
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 11:04:16
hmm... the part where the hight gains and low ohmic values makes sense and is what i think exactly what happend. there isnt any way to fix something like this by myself is there?
ttocs on 08/16/2006 11:12:04
I'll give ya $50 fer yer blown amp?
swez on 08/16/2006 11:24:22
Fixing this amp yourself, would require a solid working knowledge of electronic circuit testing, diagnostics and repairs. The tools are also key. Need a good 2 channel O-Scope, signal tracer, Tone generator, VOM and a regulated power supply, that can give a solid 12.5 - 14.0 volts DC and maybe 60 amps of current too.
Ttocs' answer tells me he knows something he's not sharing. That amp is well worth repairing and when done by JL factory techs, it will perfrom like new for a long time to come.
Sorry ttocs... you're secrets are not safe here... hehe GRIN Not on my watch bubba...
Swez
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 13:13:36
Yeah they just told me that they could repair it for 180 and if they couldnt they would replace it! so its a great deal i guess... how do i prevent this problem from happening in the future?
ttocs on 08/16/2006 13:23:17
I know a guy that fixes amps and does a great job, and does it in trade for Dr Pepper, no joke.....
I would have to say that a JL amp is worth repairing and if they will warrenty it then heck ya..... You need to check your wiring and make sure nothing is shorted out.
Scttpnk23 on 08/16/2006 14:12:16
i suppose he wouldn't cut me a deal if i sent him some Dr. pepper and some money would he?
Scttpnk23 on 08/17/2006 10:03:39
allright so i have decided to get my amp fixed by the JL manufactures.... when i get it back does anyone know any good settings or tips on setting my amp so i can prevent this from happening again?
swez on 08/17/2006 12:41:21
The JL web site has a very detailed set up process for these amps. It's very comprehensive and best to study it well, while you amp is being repaired. Here's the link:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/6986.pdf
Swez
PS We need to know what sub version you have now and how they are wired. The amp will handle 1.5 - 4.0 ohm loads and deliver 500 watts RMS to any load in that range. If the subs are below 1.5 ohms now, amp will shut down. If the subs are higher than 4 ohms, power to them will be less than 500 RMS.
Scttpnk23 on 08/18/2006 13:25:30
i have 2 12w3v2D2.... what exactly do you mean by wired? i have the subs bridged together and then run to the amp.... im not sure if this is good or why they are like that
swez on 08/18/2006 14:35:41
These are 2 ohm, DVC subs. The best way to wire them correctly for your amp is noted on the following link:
http://img8.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img8&image=2dvcseriesvcparallelsubs0gh.jpg
This is called a "Series/Parallel" wiring configuration. Here, the amp sees a net 2 ohm load and safe for your JL 500/1 or most Class D Mono sub amps out there.
FYI: If you have an ohmeter, measure the ohmic value at the speaker termination cup in your sub box. It should read slightly below 2 ohms and that's OK.
However, if you see a number well below 1.5 ohms, the subs are not wired together properly and that may have caused your problems with the amp.
Note: If each sub has its own wire connection to the amp, (2 pair of speaker lines) then each sub should read just under 4ohms with your meter. If they read below 2 ohms, a rewire is needed. This diagram is your guide for wiring each sub to its own line to amp:
http://img8.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img8&image=1dvcseries7va.jpg
Swez
PS If the diagram looks garbled and hard to read, just hit the refresh on your tool bar and that should clear things up. Print out a copy of each diagram for references and use them as you look at the sub wiring used in this box.
Scttpnk23 on 08/18/2006 14:49:32
But i think i have 2 (+) and 2 (-) ports on my amp?
swez on 08/18/2006 17:42:39
Yes, you do. Two sets are there for ease of wiring. However, only one pair is needed, depending on how the sub(s) is/are wired to the amp or each other.
Are we a bit confused here? Many get a bit rattled with DVC subs in the beginning and if that's the case, we can go slower if needed.
Can you determine how the subs are presently wired?
1. Each sub has a separate pair of wires that go to an amp output terminal. (2 pair of speaker wires, out of the box)
2. The subs are wired together inside the box and only 1 pair of speaker wires go to the amp.
Knowing this we can proceed.
Swez
PS Amps are "BRIDGED", (2 channels linked together for greater output) but subs are not "bridged".
Subs are often wired in combinations of parallel, series or series/parallel. (not bridged)
swez on 08/19/2006 08:10:39
Sorry Victor, but t hat reply is confusing the issue a bit.
This gentleman has a pair of 2+2 DVC's (JL 12W3v2-D2's) and a JL amp (500/1) that can put out the same power to loads that range between 1.5 - 4.0 ohms.
The best/easiest way to wire these subs for the JL 500/1 or most other Class D amp are to:
1. Wire sub #1 voice coils in series (4 ohms)
2. Wire sub #2 voice coils in series (4 ohms)
3. Wire each sub to its own output lug set on the amp
This provides a solid 2 ohm load to the amp used. Here's a good wiring tuitorial from JL: (Dual-2 Ohm Subwoofer: 2 Ohms)
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/support_pages.php?page_id=161
2 DVC drivers with Voice Coils in Series / Parallel, is the configuration to use here.
Hope that helps,
Swez
Victor on 08/19/2006 09:10:10
I agree, tho whatever i said is right,,, the example and the explanation are a bit confusing.. lemme just delete it so that our guy here doesnt have an issue understanding it..
Victor....
swez on 08/19/2006 16:18:05
Good IDEA Victor... Your explanation was correct and yes, after reading it 3 flippin times, I managed to deceifer it all out. But, it did confuse the daylights out of me as well. GRIN
As we both know, when dealing with new & emerging talent, K.I.S.S. (Keep It Simple Sallie) is the best plan.
(No, I do not mean KISS as in Gene Simmons and clan) Remember those wild guys in weird costumes from the mid-80's? "Detroit, Rock City"
Dant, dad-da da, dant...
Da dah daaaa, dant dad-da de, dant!!!
Yeah, that one.
Swez
PS Too little sleep and too much coffee, are making Ol Swez a bit punchy.
PSS Uhmmm Scott, after this post, are you sure you want my help? SMILE
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