Ok im thinking about upgrading my entire system, and im getting the HU this week, and i have a budget of 2,000 for everything else. would a JL13W7 in a ported box tuned to 30 Hz, a JL 1000/1 Amplifier, and an alpine component system be good. To power the component system, i am thinking about using a kicker KX300.2 model amp which is 300 watts rms at 4 ohms bridged or 2 ohms stereo. What i am trying to accomplish is a show off system. I know it seems kind of selfish lol but what can i say IM 18 and going to college. What i want isn't the biggest baddest sytem, but i want to out do my friends and theirs you know. I want people to hear me comming blocks away, and i want to pass by houses and have their windows rattling. or be parked outside a corner store, and go inside and still feel the bass. Would THIS GET THE JOB DONE??? and about how many DBs would this system hit. I am also going to upgrade my alternator to maybe a 200 Amp alt and get an additional battery with an isolator. what AWG wire should i use to power that JL 1000/1 amp? thanks in advance everyone
Replies (4)
cecilio87 on 08/12/2006 19:19:24
By the way here are the links to the items.
JL 1000/1 Amp
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=221
JL 13W7 dual 1.5 Ohm
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=10
Alpine Component system for mids and highs
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=SPR-17LS&lang=en&tab=F
UKinstaller on 08/12/2006 21:03:55
sounds good to me. i doubt it will be the biggest and baddest simply because you are running only one sub, but you will definitely have the loudest single sub on the market. 1000w rms is what the 13w7 calls for, and that's what it's getting, so you should be fine.
alpine components are okay, i like diamond audio for speakers myself. that's what i have in my whip.
as far as power, if all you are running is the 1000/1 and the kicker, all you'll need to do is get a bigger battery (i like optima yellow tops) and upgrade some of the electrical wiring in your car to 1/0 gauge. these include alternator to battery, battery to ground, and engine to ground. this will bring your electric system up to par.
for power wire, you have two choices: run a 1/0 gauge into a distribution block that will run 4 gauge into your 1000/1, and run a 4 or 8 gauge into the kicker (it won't matter for it), OR you can run two seperate power wires of 4 and 8 gauge, respectively. the reason i say this is that running 1/0 wire is kinda tough in some vehicles, and yours is no exception. chevy trucks are REALLY tough to run wires past the b-pillars, and i think a 1/0 might be hard if you aren't very experienced.
if it were me, i'd run 1/0 to a distro block, but that's just me. either way, make sure the 1000/1 gets a 4 gauge and the kicker gets either 4 or 8.
-UK
p.s. good luck getting all this stuff under $2000. the amp alone will set you back $600 - $800, and the sub is up there too. a 1/0 power kit will be at LEAST $150. add in your head unit, components and seperate amp, you're getting above $2000 real quick.
cecilio87 on 08/12/2006 21:45:49
yeah i hear you there, i was talking to victor, and this is the set-up he was talking to me about. But i don't know some other guy was talking to me and he can get me Diesel Audio really cheap. I mean i know they aren't too heard of, but he has three of the lowest end subs they carry, and those things hit. He told me he can get me FOUR 12" NSH Diesel Audio, and those are dual 4 ohm voice coils and are 1500 watts max and about 750 RMS each. For sub output, he also deals with kenwood, and he says he can get me a kenwood 1600 watt max amp for about 201. The RMS on that kenwood amp would be 1000 watts at 1 ohm. so he says he could get me the four subs for a total of 250, and the two amps for 402, so in 4 subs and 2 amps, thats only about 650 bucks. would this be a smart thing to do. Another thing is im thinking about getting two boxes. I mean the whole back seat is comming out, and well i want 2 boxes, each box single ported.
cecilio87 on 08/12/2006 22:04:50
Here are the links for what i am talking about
i would get 4 Dual 4ohm 12's NSH-12
http://www.dieselaudio.com/subwoofers.html
I would get 2 of these which are 900 WRMS at 2ohms but my load will be 1 ohm and it is stable pushing about 1,015 watts rms
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/ListProduct.aspx?k1=2&k2=42&k3=155&pr=2381
Replies (4)
cecilio87 on 08/12/2006 19:19:24
By the way here are the links to the items.
JL 1000/1 Amp
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_amps.php?amp_id=221
JL 13W7 dual 1.5 Ohm
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=10
Alpine Component system for mids and highs
http://www.alpine-usa.com/en/products/product.php?model=SPR-17LS&lang=en&tab=F
UKinstaller on 08/12/2006 21:03:55
sounds good to me. i doubt it will be the biggest and baddest simply because you are running only one sub, but you will definitely have the loudest single sub on the market. 1000w rms is what the 13w7 calls for, and that's what it's getting, so you should be fine.
alpine components are okay, i like diamond audio for speakers myself. that's what i have in my whip.
as far as power, if all you are running is the 1000/1 and the kicker, all you'll need to do is get a bigger battery (i like optima yellow tops) and upgrade some of the electrical wiring in your car to 1/0 gauge. these include alternator to battery, battery to ground, and engine to ground. this will bring your electric system up to par.
for power wire, you have two choices: run a 1/0 gauge into a distribution block that will run 4 gauge into your 1000/1, and run a 4 or 8 gauge into the kicker (it won't matter for it), OR you can run two seperate power wires of 4 and 8 gauge, respectively. the reason i say this is that running 1/0 wire is kinda tough in some vehicles, and yours is no exception. chevy trucks are REALLY tough to run wires past the b-pillars, and i think a 1/0 might be hard if you aren't very experienced.
if it were me, i'd run 1/0 to a distro block, but that's just me. either way, make sure the 1000/1 gets a 4 gauge and the kicker gets either 4 or 8.
-UK
p.s. good luck getting all this stuff under $2000. the amp alone will set you back $600 - $800, and the sub is up there too. a 1/0 power kit will be at LEAST $150. add in your head unit, components and seperate amp, you're getting above $2000 real quick.
cecilio87 on 08/12/2006 21:45:49
yeah i hear you there, i was talking to victor, and this is the set-up he was talking to me about. But i don't know some other guy was talking to me and he can get me Diesel Audio really cheap. I mean i know they aren't too heard of, but he has three of the lowest end subs they carry, and those things hit. He told me he can get me FOUR 12" NSH Diesel Audio, and those are dual 4 ohm voice coils and are 1500 watts max and about 750 RMS each. For sub output, he also deals with kenwood, and he says he can get me a kenwood 1600 watt max amp for about 201. The RMS on that kenwood amp would be 1000 watts at 1 ohm. so he says he could get me the four subs for a total of 250, and the two amps for 402, so in 4 subs and 2 amps, thats only about 650 bucks. would this be a smart thing to do. Another thing is im thinking about getting two boxes. I mean the whole back seat is comming out, and well i want 2 boxes, each box single ported.
cecilio87 on 08/12/2006 22:04:50
Here are the links for what i am talking about
i would get 4 Dual 4ohm 12's NSH-12
http://www.dieselaudio.com/subwoofers.html
I would get 2 of these which are 900 WRMS at 2ohms but my load will be 1 ohm and it is stable pushing about 1,015 watts rms
http://www.kenwoodusa.com/products/ListProduct.aspx?k1=2&k2=42&k3=155&pr=2381
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