what would be the perfect amp for this sub rite here http://www.polkaudio.com/caraudio/specs/mm12/
some amp little under $ 200.
Replies (15)
swez on 08/5/2006 00:03:09
Pretty tight budget for a good amp that will drive this sub well.
Consider saving your pennies and buy a great amp. The JL 500/1 is a perfect fit for this sub. It retails for $599.00 at authorized dealers. But you can get it for less off the Internet, but these dealers are not authorized.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=247
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1173.html
http://search.ebay.com/jl-500-1_W0QQfnuZ1QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQxpufuZx
On e-bay, be careful who you consider. Some may have a great price, but if you pay the cash and don't get the goods, you're S. O. L.
Swez
Ash on 08/5/2006 12:57:11
Unless you already have that sub or are bent on getting it, perhaps you will come out cheaper by choosing a dual voice coil model. I say this because, to get a monoblock that puts out that power at 4 ohms will be a waste. Your going to pay for the extra 2 ohm watts even if you don't use them. You could get a strong class A/B amp, but it will not be as efficient, which could tax your electricals.
Now, if your planning to upgrade to 2 pairs later, then I could see. Other than that you going to be stuck with the option of the high cost JL which puts out the same at all rated ohm loads. Still a good amp, just pricey.
Your call...
swez on 08/5/2006 14:23:31
I believe there is another amp maker out there that uses the same type of power supply employed by JL. That is, you get the same output wattage, regardless of the sub ohmic loading. (1.5 - 4.0 ohms) Now, if I can just find it... I think it's from Phoenix Gold.
Yep, it's the PG Xenon series. They offer the 400.1,600.1 and 1200.1 in the Xenon line. These are not cheap either. Best price I can find that is not on e-bay: (Very good price... forget the extended warranty they offer... if installed and used correctly, this amp should give years of great service.)
http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/from-pricefish.asp?id=964610550&rf=pfish&dfdate=08_02_2006 (Xenon 400.1)
http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/product-features.asp?id=964610553 (Xenon 600.1)
http://www.epinions.com/pr-Phoenix_Gold_Xenon-600_1_Car_Audio_Amplifier (Xenon 600.1 @ Amazon.com)
Swez
Ash on 08/5/2006 15:37:49
Now that I like! Makes me want to switch sub my amp.
Sometimes Mopperz, you just gotta suck it up and go for the gusto! On the dollar per watts ratio, coupled with quality and function, it is very cheap. You are not far off from the asking price. Save up and jump on it!
mopperz on 08/5/2006 22:07:50
so about the the phoenix gold amp which one would be just fine for it. the xenon 400.1 or 600.1. and alsowould be fine to used for a 12'' dvc alpine type r subs too.
Ash on 08/6/2006 10:12:33
Either amp will work fine as they are only off from the sub's rms rating by 100 watts, which won't make a world of difference. Opting for the 400.1 will be easier on your car's electrics.
If you go with this amp, it won't matter if you use a single or dual voice coil sub. As long as the ohmic value stay's within the amp's operating range, all should be fine. The Alpine's are a very well liked sub here. I haven't personally used one, for I tend to swing with other brands, but that's all in preference. Whatever sub you choose, make sure the rms power rating stays close to the amp you use.
swez on 08/6/2006 12:27:47
Agreed!
Either Xenon amp will get the job done. Coupled with a strong Alpine Type R sub, completes the bass engine side of your install. Can use the 2+2 or 4+4 DVC sub and still be fine with either amp. If you want to keep the enclosure space to a minimum, use the 10" sub. If you like more deep bass, run with the 12" sub.
A ported enclosure will net the most SPL (+3dB is typical in ported boxes over sealed) for either sub, but it's a bit larger is all. Ported boxes are more efficient and will make a 400 watt amp, sound like an 800 watt amp when done correctly. (Near port tuning frequency)
I would lean toward the PG 400.1 as there is little audible difference between 400 & 600 watts RMS. The big thing here, manage power draw off your car electricals. The 400.1 will get the job done, draw less current and is cheaper too.
Manual on Xenon amps:
ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Manuals/Amplifiers/XENON/xenonampmanual.pdf
This series has many great features. It also has a (Variable) Sub Sonic Filter as well. Great for ported enclosure applications.
OK, what's your plan of attack now?
Swez
mopperz on 08/6/2006 16:55:29
i guess my decision is toward the pg 400.1. this was my option b4 the pg amp. the alpine mrp m650. is this good amp too. so once n for all wat the best for it between these two. price wise and output wise.
swez on 08/6/2006 17:37:54
The Alpine is a very good amp.. However, if you use just 1 Polk MOMO for bass, (A good sub too) the PG Xenon 400.1 or the Alpine M605, are pretty much equal.
However, if you want the Alpine MRD-M605, use the Alpine SWR-1242D as your sub. The Alpine amp is rated at 600 watts RMS @ 2 ohms and pulls ~57A's at full power.
FYI: Your stock ALT is probably a 105 Ampere version. The car needs about 50A's to operate all main electronic systems. Here, current draw from a strong sub amp, can cause light dimming now and if you add a decent Mid/highs amp later, power shortages are likely. Some minor to major electrical upgrades, may be in your future. So, plan ahead.
Alpine Amp: http://www.hotbuyselectronics.com/item_detail.php?item_id=111398 ($230.00 + S/H)
Alpine Sub: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=4281
($119.00 + S/H)
Over all, the Alpine package will give you the best bang for your buck.
The Xenon amps are very nice and compare well to JL in performance and quality. However, in this case, your best overall fit, is the Alpine system.
Comments?
Swez
mopperz on 08/6/2006 21:12:27
so about these amp. i have these sub already. the polk and the type r. but im not planning to hook them up together. just seperate. looking toward the alpine m650 rite now. actually i just purchase it today online from the web u link to swez. thanks alot. oo about the stock atl and shortage. how would i prevent that from happening. what do i need to get for my car. mean this is sweet i cant wait to hear my alpine type r and alpine m605 2gether.
swez on 08/7/2006 08:36:48
Good! I think you are going to love the Alpine amp and sub combo in this car. They deliver stong bass and if you don't have outboard amping for your Mids/Highs, the bass will definitely overpower them. Plan on a Mid/Highs amp in the future.
About electrical upgrades, the easiest things to do initially, are using a high CCA rated BAT. (800 CCA rated should do it) Along with some under the hood wiring upgrades, this may be enough to do the job. It's called the "Big 3 Upgrade".
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
When doing this upgrade, leave your stock wiring in place and just add proper lengths of #4 power cable (and connectors) to your exsisting wires. This will allow more current flow from a stock electrical system and that may be all that is needed for now.
If/when you add a full range amp to the system, you may have to upgrade the ALT to one with higher output. Stock ALT's can be reworked in some cases, to give addtional output, or just bite the bullet and plan on getting a H.O. ALT to meet your future needs. (150-200 amperes peak output, will be plenty)
Swez
mopperz on 08/8/2006 02:13:50
is it necessary for my system. would this just about do it if i just get a 800 cca battery and a stronger alternator. the big 3 seem confusing 4 me but im looking in to it. how long does the big upgrade takes. yes i do have a med/high amp too and plan on slapping it in.
swez on 08/8/2006 08:43:15
The Big 3 upgrade may not be needed with dual amps. However, chances are good that when both amps are pulling lots of power at high volume, your headlights may show signs of dimming on big bass hits when engine RPM is low. (Sitting at a stop light w/ foot on the brakes at night with A/C or heater fan running)
The Big 3 is actually very easy to do. All one needs to do, is follow the same wire paths that connect the following items under the hood. Leave the stock wires in place as your guide and just add #4 wires for better power transfer.
1. ALT output lug to BAT Pos terminal
2. BAT Neg terminal to body grounding stud
3. Engine to body grounding wire
Here's a pictorial link that shows the "Big 3 Upgrade" and how to do it. The pics should help a lot. Just read the text a few times so it's clear on what is to be done and if you need it, then you'll know what to do.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801
Swez
PS Don't let all the words get in the way. The pics tell the main story.
mopperz on 08/9/2006 00:02:47
okay gotcha. i thank u so much. i will try this to do this hopefullly i wont get stuck or damage anything. i will take things slowly
swez on 08/9/2006 10:53:37
This one is actually one of the simpler things one can do for power management upgrades. It may be simple, but not always easy, depending on where the ALT is located and how easy one can get to the power output lug on the ALT.
CAUTION: When doing this project, always disconnect the BAT terminals when working at such things. And, observe your wiring polarity before you reconnect the BAT terminals. If you put power off the ALT (HOT) lug to ground, this will be a costly mistake.
Always work with the grounds first. Once these are done, then you only have 1 HOT wire to manage. This will prevent any costly mistakes OK???
Yes, go slow in deep or murky projects,
Swez
some amp little under $ 200.
Replies (15)
swez on 08/5/2006 00:03:09
Pretty tight budget for a good amp that will drive this sub well.
Consider saving your pennies and buy a great amp. The JL 500/1 is a perfect fit for this sub. It retails for $599.00 at authorized dealers. But you can get it for less off the Internet, but these dealers are not authorized.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&product_id=247
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_1173.html
http://search.ebay.com/jl-500-1_W0QQfnuZ1QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ3QQxpufuZx
On e-bay, be careful who you consider. Some may have a great price, but if you pay the cash and don't get the goods, you're S. O. L.
Swez
Ash on 08/5/2006 12:57:11
Unless you already have that sub or are bent on getting it, perhaps you will come out cheaper by choosing a dual voice coil model. I say this because, to get a monoblock that puts out that power at 4 ohms will be a waste. Your going to pay for the extra 2 ohm watts even if you don't use them. You could get a strong class A/B amp, but it will not be as efficient, which could tax your electricals.
Now, if your planning to upgrade to 2 pairs later, then I could see. Other than that you going to be stuck with the option of the high cost JL which puts out the same at all rated ohm loads. Still a good amp, just pricey.
Your call...
swez on 08/5/2006 14:23:31
I believe there is another amp maker out there that uses the same type of power supply employed by JL. That is, you get the same output wattage, regardless of the sub ohmic loading. (1.5 - 4.0 ohms) Now, if I can just find it... I think it's from Phoenix Gold.
Yep, it's the PG Xenon series. They offer the 400.1,600.1 and 1200.1 in the Xenon line. These are not cheap either. Best price I can find that is not on e-bay: (Very good price... forget the extended warranty they offer... if installed and used correctly, this amp should give years of great service.)
http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/from-pricefish.asp?id=964610550&rf=pfish&dfdate=08_02_2006 (Xenon 400.1)
http://www.digitalfotoclub.com/sc/product-features.asp?id=964610553 (Xenon 600.1)
http://www.epinions.com/pr-Phoenix_Gold_Xenon-600_1_Car_Audio_Amplifier (Xenon 600.1 @ Amazon.com)
Swez
Ash on 08/5/2006 15:37:49
Now that I like! Makes me want to switch sub my amp.
Sometimes Mopperz, you just gotta suck it up and go for the gusto! On the dollar per watts ratio, coupled with quality and function, it is very cheap. You are not far off from the asking price. Save up and jump on it!
mopperz on 08/5/2006 22:07:50
so about the the phoenix gold amp which one would be just fine for it. the xenon 400.1 or 600.1. and alsowould be fine to used for a 12'' dvc alpine type r subs too.
Ash on 08/6/2006 10:12:33
Either amp will work fine as they are only off from the sub's rms rating by 100 watts, which won't make a world of difference. Opting for the 400.1 will be easier on your car's electrics.
If you go with this amp, it won't matter if you use a single or dual voice coil sub. As long as the ohmic value stay's within the amp's operating range, all should be fine. The Alpine's are a very well liked sub here. I haven't personally used one, for I tend to swing with other brands, but that's all in preference. Whatever sub you choose, make sure the rms power rating stays close to the amp you use.
swez on 08/6/2006 12:27:47
Agreed!
Either Xenon amp will get the job done. Coupled with a strong Alpine Type R sub, completes the bass engine side of your install. Can use the 2+2 or 4+4 DVC sub and still be fine with either amp. If you want to keep the enclosure space to a minimum, use the 10" sub. If you like more deep bass, run with the 12" sub.
A ported enclosure will net the most SPL (+3dB is typical in ported boxes over sealed) for either sub, but it's a bit larger is all. Ported boxes are more efficient and will make a 400 watt amp, sound like an 800 watt amp when done correctly. (Near port tuning frequency)
I would lean toward the PG 400.1 as there is little audible difference between 400 & 600 watts RMS. The big thing here, manage power draw off your car electricals. The 400.1 will get the job done, draw less current and is cheaper too.
Manual on Xenon amps:
ftp://208.187.38.55/Phoenix_Gold/Manuals/Amplifiers/XENON/xenonampmanual.pdf
This series has many great features. It also has a (Variable) Sub Sonic Filter as well. Great for ported enclosure applications.
OK, what's your plan of attack now?
Swez
mopperz on 08/6/2006 16:55:29
i guess my decision is toward the pg 400.1. this was my option b4 the pg amp. the alpine mrp m650. is this good amp too. so once n for all wat the best for it between these two. price wise and output wise.
swez on 08/6/2006 17:37:54
The Alpine is a very good amp.. However, if you use just 1 Polk MOMO for bass, (A good sub too) the PG Xenon 400.1 or the Alpine M605, are pretty much equal.
However, if you want the Alpine MRD-M605, use the Alpine SWR-1242D as your sub. The Alpine amp is rated at 600 watts RMS @ 2 ohms and pulls ~57A's at full power.
FYI: Your stock ALT is probably a 105 Ampere version. The car needs about 50A's to operate all main electronic systems. Here, current draw from a strong sub amp, can cause light dimming now and if you add a decent Mid/highs amp later, power shortages are likely. Some minor to major electrical upgrades, may be in your future. So, plan ahead.
Alpine Amp: http://www.hotbuyselectronics.com/item_detail.php?item_id=111398 ($230.00 + S/H)
Alpine Sub: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/viewitem.php?id=4281
($119.00 + S/H)
Over all, the Alpine package will give you the best bang for your buck.
The Xenon amps are very nice and compare well to JL in performance and quality. However, in this case, your best overall fit, is the Alpine system.
Comments?
Swez
mopperz on 08/6/2006 21:12:27
so about these amp. i have these sub already. the polk and the type r. but im not planning to hook them up together. just seperate. looking toward the alpine m650 rite now. actually i just purchase it today online from the web u link to swez. thanks alot. oo about the stock atl and shortage. how would i prevent that from happening. what do i need to get for my car. mean this is sweet i cant wait to hear my alpine type r and alpine m605 2gether.
swez on 08/7/2006 08:36:48
Good! I think you are going to love the Alpine amp and sub combo in this car. They deliver stong bass and if you don't have outboard amping for your Mids/Highs, the bass will definitely overpower them. Plan on a Mid/Highs amp in the future.
About electrical upgrades, the easiest things to do initially, are using a high CCA rated BAT. (800 CCA rated should do it) Along with some under the hood wiring upgrades, this may be enough to do the job. It's called the "Big 3 Upgrade".
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
When doing this upgrade, leave your stock wiring in place and just add proper lengths of #4 power cable (and connectors) to your exsisting wires. This will allow more current flow from a stock electrical system and that may be all that is needed for now.
If/when you add a full range amp to the system, you may have to upgrade the ALT to one with higher output. Stock ALT's can be reworked in some cases, to give addtional output, or just bite the bullet and plan on getting a H.O. ALT to meet your future needs. (150-200 amperes peak output, will be plenty)
Swez
mopperz on 08/8/2006 02:13:50
is it necessary for my system. would this just about do it if i just get a 800 cca battery and a stronger alternator. the big 3 seem confusing 4 me but im looking in to it. how long does the big upgrade takes. yes i do have a med/high amp too and plan on slapping it in.
swez on 08/8/2006 08:43:15
The Big 3 upgrade may not be needed with dual amps. However, chances are good that when both amps are pulling lots of power at high volume, your headlights may show signs of dimming on big bass hits when engine RPM is low. (Sitting at a stop light w/ foot on the brakes at night with A/C or heater fan running)
The Big 3 is actually very easy to do. All one needs to do, is follow the same wire paths that connect the following items under the hood. Leave the stock wires in place as your guide and just add #4 wires for better power transfer.
1. ALT output lug to BAT Pos terminal
2. BAT Neg terminal to body grounding stud
3. Engine to body grounding wire
Here's a pictorial link that shows the "Big 3 Upgrade" and how to do it. The pics should help a lot. Just read the text a few times so it's clear on what is to be done and if you need it, then you'll know what to do.
http://forum.sounddomain.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=5;t=007801
Swez
PS Don't let all the words get in the way. The pics tell the main story.
mopperz on 08/9/2006 00:02:47
okay gotcha. i thank u so much. i will try this to do this hopefullly i wont get stuck or damage anything. i will take things slowly
swez on 08/9/2006 10:53:37
This one is actually one of the simpler things one can do for power management upgrades. It may be simple, but not always easy, depending on where the ALT is located and how easy one can get to the power output lug on the ALT.
CAUTION: When doing this project, always disconnect the BAT terminals when working at such things. And, observe your wiring polarity before you reconnect the BAT terminals. If you put power off the ALT (HOT) lug to ground, this will be a costly mistake.
Always work with the grounds first. Once these are done, then you only have 1 HOT wire to manage. This will prevent any costly mistakes OK???
Yes, go slow in deep or murky projects,
Swez
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