I also sent that same thread to MA audio (MA1200XL and what Amp???) they replied by suggesting HK-2000D ($349 new on ebay). What do u think of their answer? My funds are limited to around 300 to 400 about that of which u suggested before with the KAC-9102D. I my self was looking at the HK-401SX amp. Its 1ohm stable so i can wire my subs to 1ohm and get the most efficient power out of it. It's also a HC amp so it should be able to stand the abuse and is reasonably priced at $229. Which do u think would preform better?
Btw i dont think the HK1000 is useable it kinda started on fire and proceded to the garbage can from there :Q.
Replies (1)
swez on 08/4/2006 23:48:25
I don't think the numbers add up here RP.
This amp is fused at 80 amperes of current, before they go toast on ya. Then, we have efficiency losses to figure into the equation as well. (Losses of 15-20%, due to heat and such) Here's the math I came up with:
14.4 volts x 80A's = 1152 watts (before we factor eff.) This is how much power (Watts) the amp will draw at 14.4 volts. Now, we have to calculate efficiency losses:
A. 1152 x 0.80 = 921.6 watts (eff = 80%)
B. 1152 x 0.85 = 979.2 watts (eff = 85%)
C. 1152 c 0.90 = 1036.8 watts (eff = 90%)
There are NO AMPS on the market that can produce more power than they consume.
A typical Class D MONO amp is about 80% efficiency.
Class A/B type HC amps are only ~60% efficient.
Digital Class X (Class D Hybrid) amps are between 80-85% efficient.
The short answer here... I "don't believe" MA is meeting their spec claims on this amp. Your experience with the HK-1000D, also tells me a few things:
1. This amp is not all MA says it is
2. The amp may be 1 ohm stable, but not reliable at 1 ohm when pushed very hard
3. The vehicle electricals are not up to the task and this amp fried due to an insufficient power supply and perhaps some major mis-use/abuse as well
FYI: Class X Digital amps are hybrids of Class D style amps. They use high sampling rates on the power supplies (High Speed Switch Mode Power Supplies) and in the MA HK2000's case, an un-regulated power supply.
This means that the more voltage the amp has available to the power suppy, the more power we can extract from it. However, a 16-18 volt DC power source is not available from factory stock electrical systems.
In short, MA is really blowing smoke and I highly recommend looking at a different and proven amp maker. (Ie: Alpine, Kenwood, Orion, JBL, Infinity, MMats, Sound Stream and the like.)
Some guys who want huge power and good reliabilty for cheap, use Power Acoustik amps. They are not the best, but they do pump out the power and stand up to hard use.
This one will fit your budget, has enough reserve power for your subs and can do 1 ohm loads. (Not sure how stable it is when pushed hard though) Power Acoustik A2400DB:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6190.html
NOTE: This amp draws well in excess of 100 amperes of current at full power. Here's what you can actually expect:
1. 14.4 VDC x 120A = 1728 max watts power draw
2. 13.5 VDC x 120A = 1620 max watts power draw
1a. 1728 x 0.80 (eff) = 1382.4 Watts output
1b. 1620 x 0.80 = 1296.0 Watts output
Your typical watts per sub will be about 650 watts x 2 subs. The subs are rated at 600 Watts continous/sub. (RMS) That amp should do it power wise, but your factory electricals will not sustain an amp of this wattage w/o some serious upgrades.
Go all that?
Swez (Whew)
Btw i dont think the HK1000 is useable it kinda started on fire and proceded to the garbage can from there :Q.
Replies (1)
swez on 08/4/2006 23:48:25
I don't think the numbers add up here RP.
This amp is fused at 80 amperes of current, before they go toast on ya. Then, we have efficiency losses to figure into the equation as well. (Losses of 15-20%, due to heat and such) Here's the math I came up with:
14.4 volts x 80A's = 1152 watts (before we factor eff.) This is how much power (Watts) the amp will draw at 14.4 volts. Now, we have to calculate efficiency losses:
A. 1152 x 0.80 = 921.6 watts (eff = 80%)
B. 1152 x 0.85 = 979.2 watts (eff = 85%)
C. 1152 c 0.90 = 1036.8 watts (eff = 90%)
There are NO AMPS on the market that can produce more power than they consume.
A typical Class D MONO amp is about 80% efficiency.
Class A/B type HC amps are only ~60% efficient.
Digital Class X (Class D Hybrid) amps are between 80-85% efficient.
The short answer here... I "don't believe" MA is meeting their spec claims on this amp. Your experience with the HK-1000D, also tells me a few things:
1. This amp is not all MA says it is
2. The amp may be 1 ohm stable, but not reliable at 1 ohm when pushed very hard
3. The vehicle electricals are not up to the task and this amp fried due to an insufficient power supply and perhaps some major mis-use/abuse as well
FYI: Class X Digital amps are hybrids of Class D style amps. They use high sampling rates on the power supplies (High Speed Switch Mode Power Supplies) and in the MA HK2000's case, an un-regulated power supply.
This means that the more voltage the amp has available to the power suppy, the more power we can extract from it. However, a 16-18 volt DC power source is not available from factory stock electrical systems.
In short, MA is really blowing smoke and I highly recommend looking at a different and proven amp maker. (Ie: Alpine, Kenwood, Orion, JBL, Infinity, MMats, Sound Stream and the like.)
Some guys who want huge power and good reliabilty for cheap, use Power Acoustik amps. They are not the best, but they do pump out the power and stand up to hard use.
This one will fit your budget, has enough reserve power for your subs and can do 1 ohm loads. (Not sure how stable it is when pushed hard though) Power Acoustik A2400DB:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_6190.html
NOTE: This amp draws well in excess of 100 amperes of current at full power. Here's what you can actually expect:
1. 14.4 VDC x 120A = 1728 max watts power draw
2. 13.5 VDC x 120A = 1620 max watts power draw
1a. 1728 x 0.80 (eff) = 1382.4 Watts output
1b. 1620 x 0.80 = 1296.0 Watts output
Your typical watts per sub will be about 650 watts x 2 subs. The subs are rated at 600 Watts continous/sub. (RMS) That amp should do it power wise, but your factory electricals will not sustain an amp of this wattage w/o some serious upgrades.
Go all that?
Swez (Whew)
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
