I have 2 "MA1200XL" subs and need an amp. I bought one before it was "MA HK1000D MONO 1000 WATT " and it blew up on me after it destroyed over 30 fuses. I am wondering if that amp really does fit the subs needs if it does i am happy to buy a new one and try MA again even thogh they failed me once. If the above amp does not have the requirements to handle these subs which one will??
SUB Req.
12" Competition Subwoofer
• 600W Rms
• 1200W Max
• Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coils
• 240 Oz. Double Stacked Magnets
• Mounting Depth: 6.5”
• Mounting Diameter: 11.2”
• Optimum Vented Box: 2 Cu/Ft
Round Port Diameter: 4” x 8”
Square Port Area: 3” x 6” x 12.75”
• Optimum Sealed Box: 1.0 Cu/Ft
• Tuning @ 40Hz
CURRENT AMP SPECS.
(After reading this it seems this amp is designed to handle one sub? A professionl matched this amp to my subs. To me it seems he did a bad job.)
1000 watt RMS Digital Class-X Mono-Block Amplifier
Number of Channels 1 - Mono
RMS Power (4 ohms) 500 watts x 1 chan.
RMS Power (2 ohms) 800 watts x 1 chan.
RMS Power (1 ohm) 1000 watts x 1 chan.
Bridged RMS Power Not Bridgeable
Peak Power Output 2000 watts
Min. Impedance Unbridged 1 Ohm
Min. Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable
THD @ Rated RMS Power 0.05%
Speaker Level Inputs No
Amp Preamp Outputs Yes - 1 Pair
Built-in Crossover Yes - LP
High-Pass Crossover N/A
Low-Pass Crossover 50 - 350 Hz
Subsonic Filter 20 - 50 Hz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 96 dB
Channel Separation N/A
Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB @ 45 Hz
Bass/Gain Remote N/A
Fan Cooled Yes
Fuse Rating 30A x 2
Warranty 2-year Manufacturer's
cant seem to find it on their website any more buy they have some for sale on ebay....but what info i did find is listed.
Thank you for taking the time to read this i know it is very long,
Shane
Replies (2)
swez on 08/2/2006 21:17:35
Long posts are good, when they have the right info and asking well targeted questions. ;-)
These subs need an amp that can deliver a clean 1200 - 1500 Watts RMS @ 1 or 4 ohm loads. Frankly, depending on your budget, it might make sense to use a pair of Class D amps, one sub per amp. This way, if one sub or amp goes out, you still have a backup while waiting for repairs or warranty. Class D's @ 2 ohms are much more reliable and cheaper in the long run, for points you have already mentioned.
See, the big one here, most Class D's that are rated at 1 ohm loads, don't handle it well when pushed hard for long periods of time. Yes, a HC (High Current = Huge Current Hog) amp does that load better, but the efficiency losses are high (~40% loss in heat) VS under 20% losses in a well designed Class D amp. Not just that, but a quality HC amp is not cheap either.
If you can swing it with 1 amp per sub, the amps work less hard, are more reliable and over the long haul, a better "investment". Would you consider this line of reasoning and come back for more? Depends on your budget and how reliable your system needs to be.
Comments?
Swez
swez on 08/2/2006 21:22:37
Consider a pair of Kenwood KAC-9102 D's here:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5901.html $190.00/amp
If you are using a ported enclosure, this amp series will net +750 RMS @ 2 ohms, has Infrasonic filtering and a solid performer for under 30 cents a watt. Not all bad huh?
FYI: The HK 1000D is a strong amp and more reliable at 2 ohms. However, experience has taught you it is not really 1 ohm stable. If the internal circuits are not damaged, it's worth using at 2 ohms.
If that amp is still good, you can always buy a 2nd one and run 1 amp per sub. This amp is a bit over-priced however. (~ $0.40/watt RMS). I would test that amp at 2 ohms (power only 1 sub) and see how it works out. If you can get a solid 18-20 VAC (Volts AC) w/o clipping the amp hard, it's worth keeping.
However, if that HK1000D is totally trashed and not worth repairng, it would be well worth investing in a pair of KAC-9102D's. Shop them hard and see what you can find off the net.
Swez
SUB Req.
12" Competition Subwoofer
• 600W Rms
• 1200W Max
• Dual 4-Ohm Voice Coils
• 240 Oz. Double Stacked Magnets
• Mounting Depth: 6.5”
• Mounting Diameter: 11.2”
• Optimum Vented Box: 2 Cu/Ft
Round Port Diameter: 4” x 8”
Square Port Area: 3” x 6” x 12.75”
• Optimum Sealed Box: 1.0 Cu/Ft
• Tuning @ 40Hz
CURRENT AMP SPECS.
(After reading this it seems this amp is designed to handle one sub? A professionl matched this amp to my subs. To me it seems he did a bad job.)
1000 watt RMS Digital Class-X Mono-Block Amplifier
Number of Channels 1 - Mono
RMS Power (4 ohms) 500 watts x 1 chan.
RMS Power (2 ohms) 800 watts x 1 chan.
RMS Power (1 ohm) 1000 watts x 1 chan.
Bridged RMS Power Not Bridgeable
Peak Power Output 2000 watts
Min. Impedance Unbridged 1 Ohm
Min. Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable
THD @ Rated RMS Power 0.05%
Speaker Level Inputs No
Amp Preamp Outputs Yes - 1 Pair
Built-in Crossover Yes - LP
High-Pass Crossover N/A
Low-Pass Crossover 50 - 350 Hz
Subsonic Filter 20 - 50 Hz
Signal-to-Noise Ratio 96 dB
Channel Separation N/A
Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB @ 45 Hz
Bass/Gain Remote N/A
Fan Cooled Yes
Fuse Rating 30A x 2
Warranty 2-year Manufacturer's
cant seem to find it on their website any more buy they have some for sale on ebay....but what info i did find is listed.
Thank you for taking the time to read this i know it is very long,
Shane
Replies (2)
swez on 08/2/2006 21:17:35
Long posts are good, when they have the right info and asking well targeted questions. ;-)
These subs need an amp that can deliver a clean 1200 - 1500 Watts RMS @ 1 or 4 ohm loads. Frankly, depending on your budget, it might make sense to use a pair of Class D amps, one sub per amp. This way, if one sub or amp goes out, you still have a backup while waiting for repairs or warranty. Class D's @ 2 ohms are much more reliable and cheaper in the long run, for points you have already mentioned.
See, the big one here, most Class D's that are rated at 1 ohm loads, don't handle it well when pushed hard for long periods of time. Yes, a HC (High Current = Huge Current Hog) amp does that load better, but the efficiency losses are high (~40% loss in heat) VS under 20% losses in a well designed Class D amp. Not just that, but a quality HC amp is not cheap either.
If you can swing it with 1 amp per sub, the amps work less hard, are more reliable and over the long haul, a better "investment". Would you consider this line of reasoning and come back for more? Depends on your budget and how reliable your system needs to be.
Comments?
Swez
swez on 08/2/2006 21:22:37
Consider a pair of Kenwood KAC-9102 D's here:
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_5901.html $190.00/amp
If you are using a ported enclosure, this amp series will net +750 RMS @ 2 ohms, has Infrasonic filtering and a solid performer for under 30 cents a watt. Not all bad huh?
FYI: The HK 1000D is a strong amp and more reliable at 2 ohms. However, experience has taught you it is not really 1 ohm stable. If the internal circuits are not damaged, it's worth using at 2 ohms.
If that amp is still good, you can always buy a 2nd one and run 1 amp per sub. This amp is a bit over-priced however. (~ $0.40/watt RMS). I would test that amp at 2 ohms (power only 1 sub) and see how it works out. If you can get a solid 18-20 VAC (Volts AC) w/o clipping the amp hard, it's worth keeping.
However, if that HK1000D is totally trashed and not worth repairng, it would be well worth investing in a pair of KAC-9102D's. Shop them hard and see what you can find off the net.
Swez
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
