I'm interested in getting a capacitor (if thats how you spell it) for my current system.
2 JL's 10w08 series and legacy red series 2 1800 watt amp
Amp Specs:
2 Channel Amplification
2 x 900 Watts Output
1 x 1800 Watts Bridged Output
1800 Watts Total Output
and here are specs on the JL: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf
(10-w08)
Is it possible to get a capacitor for this? I've looked at lots of them, but I'm not sure if they have to match an amp to work at full power. My price range is $50-$120. Thanks! any advice would be very helpful.
Replies (12)
swez on 07/15/2006 13:11:08
Caps may help in minor light dimming problems on long, deep bass notes.
However, if you have chronic problems that go deeper than minor dimming, best to invest in a high CCA rated BAT and maybe use the "Big 3 Upgrade" technique spelled out in the FAQ section of this board.
Swez
lilschtive on 07/15/2006 15:04:04
Wow that "Big 3" upgrade sounds like it can help a lot. Problem is, I have no idea what half that stuff means. I'll be doing this myself, and im trying to make it as easy as possible. Plus, CAPS look awesome :P. I know this might be hard to ask, but can i just get some info on some CAPS, and I will be willing to do everyting possible. I have some CAPS here that i am willing to buy.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEGACY-LCAP25DT-2-5-Farad-Neon-Power-Capacitor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38638QQihZ016QQitemZ260007487001QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
thanks alot for the advice too anything helps thanks a lot
swez on 07/15/2006 19:41:08
The "Big 3 Upgrade" is nothing more than using larger gage wires that are already on the vehicle. These larger wires allow for less electrical resistance, more current carrying ability and therefore, more power available to your audio gear.
In a nutshell, here's all that is needed to perform the Big 3 Upgrade:
1. Alternator output lug to Pos on Battery (#4 gage wire & connectors)
2. Battery Neg to body ground (#4 gage wire & connectors)
3. Engine block to body ground (#4 gage wire & connectors)
Yes, that is a neat looking package. One thing one needs to know about Surge Caps.... They store a limited amount of energy and release pulses as needed by the amp during heavy bass hits. Once they are depleated, they need to recharge from the ALT/BAT and act like an additional load on same. (ALT/BAT)
On the other hand, a high CCA BAT has a considerably larger storage capacity. (Over 2 million times greater than a 1.0 Farad Cap) When an amp demands short duration pulses of extra power, the BAT has plenty of reserve power to give out. It's always on duty and ready to deliver power on demand and is continously being charged by the ALT as needed.
Do your headlights dim now with this amp?
Swez
lilschtive on 07/15/2006 22:43:29
My current battery is 1 month old and its not a bad battery. Only notice dimming that i can see was on my techomoter light, and on the HU.
ttocs on 07/16/2006 09:37:04
is the tach 5" tall and backlit with some funky color? if so that could be the problem, not the amp......
swez on 07/16/2006 11:29:09
Well, these anomolies are probably a sign that those given circuits are being affected to a degree, by your sub amp power draw.
Now, based on all the facts & details we have given to you already, what do you believe the best course of action might be?
So far, you have a new BAT right? That must be doing some good if it is new, in peak condition and your charging system is up to par. Think this over carefully before you reply...
"What is the 'best thing' one can do to insure the amp is getting adequate power from the electrical system and not at the expense of other electrical devices related to this vehicle?"
THINK hard as this is critical to solving any problems we all face in life.
Swez
lilschtive on 07/17/2006 00:49:09
Hmmm...my bat is fine...and im nto getting enough power to the subs. Maybe if i set up a system where when the amp needs mroe pwoer , it can get more power. I think its called the "Big 3 upgrade"? Either im blind, or thats the way to go.
swez on 07/17/2006 01:30:33
Very good deduction there Dr. Watson! You can test this theory before diving in too.
1. Get a DC voltmeter and measure DC voltage at the BAT
2. Test DC voltage at amp power lugs and compare voltage numbers
If your BAT is say 12.5 volts and the amp gets 12.0 volts or less, the Big 3 Upgrade is in order. Also, using a #4 gage power and ground will help transfer the most power off the BAT terminals to the amp.
(12.5 volts w/o engine running. When engine is running, you will note voltage between 13.5 - 14.4 volts)
Your JL subs are 8 ohms and rated at 125 watts RMS per each. To verify the power they are actually getting, the amp should be bridged MONO and the subs wired in parallel for a net 4 ohms load. Your target voltage at the output lugs on amp should be about 31.5 volts AC (250 watts Continous) on reference bass test tones at 40,60 & 80 Hz.
Do you have a CD burner? If yes, I can give you a link to test tones for testing purposes.
Swez
lilschtive on 07/17/2006 12:59:43
yes i do have a cd burner. also, where can i pick up a DC voltage tester?
swez on 07/17/2006 14:13:40
WalMart, Radio Shack or most good autoparts stores. Get the one with a digital readout as they are very easy to use for a newbie.
This one will do fine:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=&origkw=Multimeters&kw=multimeters&parentPage=search
Tone Generator:
http://www.nch.com.au/tonegen/index.html
Set up your tone files for sub applications:
40.0 Hz.
60.0 Hz.
80.0 Hz.
100.0 Hz.
For Mids and Highs, try the Pink Noise generator function. Pink Noise is a full spectrum diagnostics tone tool for checking balance on lows, Mids and Highs. (Sounds like FM off station Hiss)
Swez
lilschtive on 07/17/2006 14:46:37
wow thaanks a lot...this really helps. radio shack is down the street from me. ill buy it sometime this week! thanks swez
swez on 07/17/2006 21:35:56
That NCH tone generator has some nice features in it. It may take a while to get the hang of it, but it can do a lot for a serious audio buff.
Take your time and play with it before loading up a Test CD. Use the tones at 0dB reference levels for best results
You're most welcome Lil,
Swez
PS I can tell you've been doing some homework on this stuff. Keep up the good work and someday, who knows; a Gold could come your way. Just read the FAQ's and DIY'ers posts and things like that. It'll all come together in time. SMILE
2 JL's 10w08 series and legacy red series 2 1800 watt amp
Amp Specs:
2 Channel Amplification
2 x 900 Watts Output
1 x 1800 Watts Bridged Output
1800 Watts Total Output
and here are specs on the JL: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12_15W0_MAN.pdf
(10-w08)
Is it possible to get a capacitor for this? I've looked at lots of them, but I'm not sure if they have to match an amp to work at full power. My price range is $50-$120. Thanks! any advice would be very helpful.
Replies (12)
swez on 07/15/2006 13:11:08
Caps may help in minor light dimming problems on long, deep bass notes.
However, if you have chronic problems that go deeper than minor dimming, best to invest in a high CCA rated BAT and maybe use the "Big 3 Upgrade" technique spelled out in the FAQ section of this board.
Swez
lilschtive on 07/15/2006 15:04:04
Wow that "Big 3" upgrade sounds like it can help a lot. Problem is, I have no idea what half that stuff means. I'll be doing this myself, and im trying to make it as easy as possible. Plus, CAPS look awesome :P. I know this might be hard to ask, but can i just get some info on some CAPS, and I will be willing to do everyting possible. I have some CAPS here that i am willing to buy.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LEGACY-LCAP25DT-2-5-Farad-Neon-Power-Capacitor_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ38638QQihZ016QQitemZ260007487001QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
thanks alot for the advice too anything helps thanks a lot
swez on 07/15/2006 19:41:08
The "Big 3 Upgrade" is nothing more than using larger gage wires that are already on the vehicle. These larger wires allow for less electrical resistance, more current carrying ability and therefore, more power available to your audio gear.
In a nutshell, here's all that is needed to perform the Big 3 Upgrade:
1. Alternator output lug to Pos on Battery (#4 gage wire & connectors)
2. Battery Neg to body ground (#4 gage wire & connectors)
3. Engine block to body ground (#4 gage wire & connectors)
Yes, that is a neat looking package. One thing one needs to know about Surge Caps.... They store a limited amount of energy and release pulses as needed by the amp during heavy bass hits. Once they are depleated, they need to recharge from the ALT/BAT and act like an additional load on same. (ALT/BAT)
On the other hand, a high CCA BAT has a considerably larger storage capacity. (Over 2 million times greater than a 1.0 Farad Cap) When an amp demands short duration pulses of extra power, the BAT has plenty of reserve power to give out. It's always on duty and ready to deliver power on demand and is continously being charged by the ALT as needed.
Do your headlights dim now with this amp?
Swez
lilschtive on 07/15/2006 22:43:29
My current battery is 1 month old and its not a bad battery. Only notice dimming that i can see was on my techomoter light, and on the HU.
ttocs on 07/16/2006 09:37:04
is the tach 5" tall and backlit with some funky color? if so that could be the problem, not the amp......
swez on 07/16/2006 11:29:09
Well, these anomolies are probably a sign that those given circuits are being affected to a degree, by your sub amp power draw.
Now, based on all the facts & details we have given to you already, what do you believe the best course of action might be?
So far, you have a new BAT right? That must be doing some good if it is new, in peak condition and your charging system is up to par. Think this over carefully before you reply...
"What is the 'best thing' one can do to insure the amp is getting adequate power from the electrical system and not at the expense of other electrical devices related to this vehicle?"
THINK hard as this is critical to solving any problems we all face in life.
Swez
lilschtive on 07/17/2006 00:49:09
Hmmm...my bat is fine...and im nto getting enough power to the subs. Maybe if i set up a system where when the amp needs mroe pwoer , it can get more power. I think its called the "Big 3 upgrade"? Either im blind, or thats the way to go.
swez on 07/17/2006 01:30:33
Very good deduction there Dr. Watson! You can test this theory before diving in too.
1. Get a DC voltmeter and measure DC voltage at the BAT
2. Test DC voltage at amp power lugs and compare voltage numbers
If your BAT is say 12.5 volts and the amp gets 12.0 volts or less, the Big 3 Upgrade is in order. Also, using a #4 gage power and ground will help transfer the most power off the BAT terminals to the amp.
(12.5 volts w/o engine running. When engine is running, you will note voltage between 13.5 - 14.4 volts)
Your JL subs are 8 ohms and rated at 125 watts RMS per each. To verify the power they are actually getting, the amp should be bridged MONO and the subs wired in parallel for a net 4 ohms load. Your target voltage at the output lugs on amp should be about 31.5 volts AC (250 watts Continous) on reference bass test tones at 40,60 & 80 Hz.
Do you have a CD burner? If yes, I can give you a link to test tones for testing purposes.
Swez
lilschtive on 07/17/2006 12:59:43
yes i do have a cd burner. also, where can i pick up a DC voltage tester?
swez on 07/17/2006 14:13:40
WalMart, Radio Shack or most good autoparts stores. Get the one with a digital readout as they are very easy to use for a newbie.
This one will do fine:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103174&cp=&origkw=Multimeters&kw=multimeters&parentPage=search
Tone Generator:
http://www.nch.com.au/tonegen/index.html
Set up your tone files for sub applications:
40.0 Hz.
60.0 Hz.
80.0 Hz.
100.0 Hz.
For Mids and Highs, try the Pink Noise generator function. Pink Noise is a full spectrum diagnostics tone tool for checking balance on lows, Mids and Highs. (Sounds like FM off station Hiss)
Swez
lilschtive on 07/17/2006 14:46:37
wow thaanks a lot...this really helps. radio shack is down the street from me. ill buy it sometime this week! thanks swez
swez on 07/17/2006 21:35:56
That NCH tone generator has some nice features in it. It may take a while to get the hang of it, but it can do a lot for a serious audio buff.
Take your time and play with it before loading up a Test CD. Use the tones at 0dB reference levels for best results
You're most welcome Lil,
Swez
PS I can tell you've been doing some homework on this stuff. Keep up the good work and someday, who knows; a Gold could come your way. Just read the FAQ's and DIY'ers posts and things like that. It'll all come together in time. SMILE
Copyright ClubKnowledge 2009 * All Rights Reserved
