First off, I'm new here and would like to say hello. In advance, please forgive me for any rookie mistakes. I am in the process of getting a new vehicle and thus in need of a new system (Audi A3, a hatchback, if that helps for sub box size reference). Here is what I am planning on getting:
SPEAKERS: JBL 608GTi 6.5" Components $247.20.
SUBS: (1 or 2) JBL 15" GTi Subs $247.20 OR 2 JBL 12" GTi Subs $206.
AMPS: JBL GTO 1201.1 II 1200 watt Class D Sub Amp $220. JBL GTO755.6 II 560 watt 6-channel Amp $176 OR JBLPX300 600 watt 4-channel Amp w/ crossover $194.40
In my truck I have 2 Focal 10" subs and in my previous vehicle I had a single 12" Diamond Audio sub in a ported box. I remember the single 12" hitting a lot harder and liked its sound a lot more.
SPEAKER ?s:
Any feedback on the speaker selection? I have Focal components in my truck and I like them a lot they ran me $250...I want to say they were the Polyglass series. Do the JBLs even compare?
SUB ?s:
What would you recommend for the subs? How do they compare?: (1) 15" GTi sub vs. (2) 15" GTi subs vs. (2) 12" GTi subs
Should I go with a ported box, a sealed box, or vented? I would most likely have a shop build a box for me as I'm not sure if I could do it without screwing something up.
AMP ?s:
How is my Amp selection? I am not sure that a single GTO1201.1 II will be enough to power (2) 15" GTi subs; so if necessary, assuming it is the best set-up, I would be willing to opt for 2 sub amps.
Thanks, Chris
Replies (16)
UKinstaller on 07/10/2006 22:34:30
sounds good so far man. i'm not a big JBL fan, but it's all about what you like.
you're car is more than likely going to come with a Bose factory sound system, so plan on completely re-wiring the car. new audi's are really easy to run new wire through the door boots, so it shouldn't be too bad.
speakers - i LOVE focal's, so if it were me i'd go with them.
subs - i like the sound of 12's more than 15's. and i like sealed boxes. i'm just not into ridiculously loud bass anymore. so i would go with a single or 2 12's in a sealed box.
amps - pick your subs first. and, you will DEFINITELY want a 4 channel amplifier for your highs, otherwise the factory system going to sound better..
good selections, just think about what you want to do before you go buying all this stuff.
-UK
BoondockSaint on 07/11/2006 04:32:23
Thanks for the reply UK,
I've never had any JBL stuff other than an amp but I get a pretty nice discount on all their stuff from my job so I figured I could get a nice set up at a pretty good discounted price. I'm not sure if I want to attempt to do the install myself or not because I've only installed decks in my vehicles, no amps, subs, or speakers. I figure it might be smart to let the pro's handle it so I don't fry the electrical system.
Any bad experience with JBL? From what I have heard their upper end stuff is supposed to be pretty good.
I like a lot of bass so I think I'd go with (2) 12's or one or two 15's. I've read nothing but good reviews about the GTi woofers so I think they would be a good bet. I'm not so sure about the speakers but I figure they must be pretty good as well. As far as the amps go...so the 1200.1 II for the subs and the 4-channel amp for the speakers?
I figure if I go this route I will save $500-$750 as it cost me $1900 for Focal Polyglass speakers, (2) 10" Access Focal subs in a custom box, and a JBL GTO 601.1 Class D amp for the subs, and to install the deck, Diamond Speakers for the rear, and 4 channel Orion amp I already had.
I don't know but maybe if Focal stuff is so much better its worth the extra money. Any thoughts? Should I just rock all the JBL stuff or try to get Focal stuff for a price increase? I just figured since the MSRP on the JBL speakers and subs are $700 that they must be pretty good and if I can get them for $247 that I was getting a sweet deal. Eh who knows sometimes you don't get what you pay for. Thanks again for the reply,
Chris
swez on 07/11/2006 19:53:13
Chris,
A singlr Gti sub is plenty strong for very good bass regarding your install. Using 2 subs will just make the install more expensive and less cargo space.
Also, many of us like JBL here and their amps are top notch as are their speakers and subs. However, we also need to think about power consumption of larger amplifiers and the electrical systems ability to provide enough current to power everything. The 1201.1 II is not a light weight amp and pulls close to 100 amperes of current at full power. Do you really need that much bass power... and are you willing to do major electrical upgrades to have it?
Comments?
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/11/2006 20:11:36
Swez,
Thanks for the reply. Would I really need to make major electrical upgrades for a single GTi 15" or 2 12"s? If thats the case then no dice because I'm sure that will get nice and expensive. Has anybody heard any of the GTi line stuff or am I making a stupid assumption expensive=good quality. Normally you get what you pay for but thats always to an extent. Also would the 1201.1 II be good for the amps and the 4-channel amp for the speakers a good combo? Assuming that the electrical system would hold up. Would I just need an Optima battery to be safe or a whole overhaul. You got me a little worried. Thanks again, Chris
swez on 07/13/2006 13:03:46
Chris,
A single 12" GTi sub (or even the 10" version) is plenty of bass and 600 RMS is more than adequate for concert level bass in your ride. If you went with a single 15" sub, the box it would need, is pretty large. (Especially a ported one) The JBL Grand Touring Series GTO601.1 II is plenty of power and draws less than 60 amperes at full power. (2 ohm load)
The GTi series subs are 6 + 6 DVC coils. Your lowest ohmic rating here, would be 3 ohms with both coils in parallel. With the GTO601.1 II, your RMS sub power will be be more like 400 watts RMS @ 3 ohms. Not bad at all... but this sub is rated for up to 700 watts RMS.
In a ported enclosure, this sub/amp combo will net + 120dB of bass power without straining. That my friend, is a lot of bass engine in this small vehicle. You'll have to either demo this combination at a shop that carries them or take my word on this one. Just remember, what you hear in a large showroom or demo wall, is not exactly how it will sound in your car. (A large room VS a smaller car) Big difference in acoustics here. Trust me, the differences can be substantial in certain vehicles.
If you have a drop down seat in the back, the sub performance will be astounding. If trunk mounted only, bass will still be very good, just not as full as a drop seat sedan or SUV will offer.
Thoughts, comments?
Swez
PS Once we get the bass engine side of your plan nailed down, then we can look at the mid/high aspects of this project. Yes, plan on amping the mid/highs too. Power mamagement is the main issue here, when working with dual amps and stock electricals. Do you know the amperage rating of the stock ALT in this vehicle?
BoondockSaint on 07/13/2006 20:19:26
Swez,
Thanks for the reply. Hmmm since you put it that way I think I would opt for a 12" GTi in a ported enclosure. If possible I would like to power it with the JBL 1201.1 II amp to give it enough power to make the most bass. I agree that the 15" enclosure would probably destroy any cargo room I had left. The alternator has an amperage of 140 and the battery is 80. The vehicle is a 5 door hatchback with fold down seats, so this should be pretty good for bass correct? Thanks again for your help, it has cleared up a lot of things for me. -Chris
swez on 07/13/2006 22:23:08
Good, this plan should work out as the 1201.1 II will net about 750 watts RMS @ 3 ohms. Current draw will be less at 3 ohms too.
The ALT should be strong enough for this amp and a solid 4 channel for mids/highs too. You may need a few minor wiring upgrades under the hood. We call it the "Big 3" upgrade:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
This should do it and worst case, a high CCA BAT might be in order for beep sub hits. However, other than that, it should be a strong SQL system in all.
About speakers, consider the GTO series as they are more efficient with lower power needed to get them up to concert levels. That means a smaller amp and less current draw as well. These for example:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO607C?vq_id=none
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFKAPPA607CS?vq_id=none
I've used these Infinity's in several installs and really like the tweeter used. It's not quite as smooth as silk dome tweeters, but not as harsh as some metal dome tweeters. It really depends on your taste in music and how bright the tweets need to be for your ears.
The GTi's are superb to be sure. But when weighing cost, efficiency, amp needs and the huge mounding depth needed, the GTO's or Infinity Kappa's make a lot more sense from many perspectives.
What say you?
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/13/2006 22:52:21
Thanks again Swez,
I think I am set then with the getting a 12" GTi in a ported box, unless you think going with a 12" Focal Access would be the better option, in my mind when I think of getting the GTi for $247 I think I'm getting a steal. But if they aren't the best quality I'd be willing to spend more...rather do it right and only once. For amps am set, the 1201.1 II and the JBLPX300 for the speakers. As far as speakers go, I really like the Focal polyglasses (I think I paid $250 for them) I had in my truck, but again it just seems like I'd be getting some high end speakers in the GTis (mspr $700) for $247. I just want to get the best sound quality I can for the money. Thanks again for all your help it is greatly appreciated.
- Chris
swez on 07/13/2006 23:40:11
The GTi sub is JBL's flagship line for car audio. Much of the technology used in this sub design was spawned by the Pro series subs we often see in live sound systems and upper end night clubs. I have used lots of JBL products before and they do deliver.
As for speakers in this project, price is not always the best indictor of what sounds best to the vehicle owner. We have a moving vehicle, road noise and other variables that make mobile audio a series of compromizes. For one, look at the limitations of where speakers can be installed and what size/format we have available.
Comps are the top choice for the "Audiophile" that demands accuracy, clean and realistic sound. Amping them accordingly and the install, have the larger share of what we hear in the end. (Not the price tag, brand name or specs.) I can see spending big money on a fixed Home Theater system components and such. But, in a car, we have many compromizes that cannot easily be altered or remedied.
Full range amp:
I just finished an install using the bigger brother to this amp:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO754II
We used the 6 channel version (2 channels for a sub) and I must say... I WAS IMPRESSED !!! So was the guy who owns it. We ran Infinity 5.25" Kappa Comps in the front and Infinity 6x9 Kappa's in the back. We just tested a basic 12" sealed for the sub function and it had all the power to rock his Acura Integra and then some.
Am not suggesting the 6 channel for your application. However, the 4 channel noted above has plenty of power at 4 ohms and even more when mated with 2 ohm Comps. Think it over... you'll save some money, about 20 amperes of less current draw and all the main features most audiophiles demand.
Comments?
Swez
PS The PX 300 will draw upward of 60A's at full power. The GTO 75.4 II will need under 40A's. Do you really need the extra power and current draw to get the desired results? There would be no audible difference between 124 watts RMS x 4 VS 104 watts RMS x 4. Just more expense and more current draw.
BoondockSaint on 07/14/2006 03:44:02
Swez,
So the PX300 is not an option because it draws too much power? Here are the other Amps that I can get at a discount:
JBL GTO75.4 II 4 channel amp $132
JBL GTO755.6 II 6 channel amp $176
I can also get the GTi comps in 5.25 for $222. If I could get sufficient power to the system I would like to get these to stay with JBLs top line stuff. Also is Infinity or JBL the upper brand from Harmon Kardon? If I had to I would be willing to get an Optima battery if necessary.
If I am being a stubborn ass let me know. Thanks again for all your help.
-Chris
swez on 07/14/2006 09:30:19
Stubborn? Not at all... am just pointing out some options that are both cost effective and high performance oriented, w/o sacrificing the quality audio you desire. The original plan you came in with is fine and just a few minor tweaks may be all that is needed.
In fact, it might be me who is pulling you off track here. If that is the case, say so and we'll get back to your needs as stated.
Harmon Intl is a family of companies:
Crown
Harmon Kardon
Harmon Becker
JBL
Infinity
Some of the prices you have noted must be wholesale or near cost. Great deals noted here. Am just showing some workable solutions that might be very power effective. Here's the thinking that goes behind some of the suggestions.
A typical vehicle needs about 50-60A's of current to operate all major electrical components. (Ie: Lights, Ign, A/C, ABS, ECM, BCM and other vehicle performance monitoring circuits) When we use other items like power windows, seats, wipers, defoggers and Aux lighting, the current draw goes up accordingly.
A stock electrical system can handle "all devices" used simultanously and still have a reserve capacity of 20-30%. When adding high power audio gear to the equation, we have to factor in these extra loads as well.
This is why I am bringing some new options into the original plan. Obviously, most of us don't use our audio systems at full power all the time and for long durations. (Some do though) However, when we do want to cut loose and have it all, we want to make sure that other key devices in the vehicle have adequate power. Make sense? That's the background info for why new options are being put on the table.
OK, back to the main plan. Yes, you can indeed use the PX 300 if you wish. Since pricing is not an issue, the only factors to consider here would be performance, power draw and matching amping power to the GTi Component needs. Same idea with the 1201.1 II and GTi sub kit.
Am not recommending the JBL GTO755.6 II 6 channel amp for your specific install as the sub channels may not give you a good match and adequate bass with the GTi sub mentioned. (A 3 ohm sub load may be tough on the sub channels when bridged or lack adequate power in 2 channel mode at 6 ohms per channel stereo)
Here, the 1201.1 II makes sense and yes, at full power, it will draw some heavy current numbers on long, sustained, bass notes. (60-70A's for that duration) Couple that with a less efficient Class A/B amp for mids/highs, we can see an additional load of 40-50A's. This is where a stout BAT come in handy. The BAT acts like a current buffer and when the ALT is pressed to it's full capacity, the BAT will make up the difference. See the connection here?
Based on these variables and facts about 12 volt systems, now you can make a well informed choice about what products to use and how they will affect your vehicles' electrical system. That's why I have mentioned some alternate options to consider.
Now, you can make educated decisions based on how they will alter your vehicles' electrical supply sources and factor in any upgrades that may be needed to support this new addition of toys.
Comments?
Swez
PS Does this vehicle have a Harmon/Becker Premium audio system in it now or just a stock Radio/CD player (Head Unit = HU) and speakers? Nice ride BTW...
BoondockSaint on 07/14/2006 15:00:58
Swez,
Thanks for all your help. So if I run the PX300 and the 1201.1 II with a 12" GTi sub ported and GTi comps with an optima battery I should be alright? Obviously I don't want to use up too much power and lose ABS. Yeah if anyone wants the discount work at UPS for a week and use the discount. Thanks again,
Chris
swez on 07/15/2006 12:52:50
Chris,
Most welcome there bud! Yes, just monitor your headlight dimming as this is a typical sign that the electrical system is being over-taxed by your new toys.
The larger CCA BAT will help and most guys who do the "Big 3" Upgrade" along with the rest, usually report that all devices are getting adequate power.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
Good luck with your system install!
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/15/2006 18:51:03
Thanks for all of your help Swez, I appreciate it.
swez on 07/15/2006 19:07:40
You bet Boon... keep us posted on your progress OK?
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/15/2006 19:12:36
Will do, I'll keep you guys updated.
SPEAKERS: JBL 608GTi 6.5" Components $247.20.
SUBS: (1 or 2) JBL 15" GTi Subs $247.20 OR 2 JBL 12" GTi Subs $206.
AMPS: JBL GTO 1201.1 II 1200 watt Class D Sub Amp $220. JBL GTO755.6 II 560 watt 6-channel Amp $176 OR JBLPX300 600 watt 4-channel Amp w/ crossover $194.40
In my truck I have 2 Focal 10" subs and in my previous vehicle I had a single 12" Diamond Audio sub in a ported box. I remember the single 12" hitting a lot harder and liked its sound a lot more.
SPEAKER ?s:
Any feedback on the speaker selection? I have Focal components in my truck and I like them a lot they ran me $250...I want to say they were the Polyglass series. Do the JBLs even compare?
SUB ?s:
What would you recommend for the subs? How do they compare?: (1) 15" GTi sub vs. (2) 15" GTi subs vs. (2) 12" GTi subs
Should I go with a ported box, a sealed box, or vented? I would most likely have a shop build a box for me as I'm not sure if I could do it without screwing something up.
AMP ?s:
How is my Amp selection? I am not sure that a single GTO1201.1 II will be enough to power (2) 15" GTi subs; so if necessary, assuming it is the best set-up, I would be willing to opt for 2 sub amps.
Thanks, Chris
Replies (16)
UKinstaller on 07/10/2006 22:34:30
sounds good so far man. i'm not a big JBL fan, but it's all about what you like.
you're car is more than likely going to come with a Bose factory sound system, so plan on completely re-wiring the car. new audi's are really easy to run new wire through the door boots, so it shouldn't be too bad.
speakers - i LOVE focal's, so if it were me i'd go with them.
subs - i like the sound of 12's more than 15's. and i like sealed boxes. i'm just not into ridiculously loud bass anymore. so i would go with a single or 2 12's in a sealed box.
amps - pick your subs first. and, you will DEFINITELY want a 4 channel amplifier for your highs, otherwise the factory system going to sound better..
good selections, just think about what you want to do before you go buying all this stuff.
-UK
BoondockSaint on 07/11/2006 04:32:23
Thanks for the reply UK,
I've never had any JBL stuff other than an amp but I get a pretty nice discount on all their stuff from my job so I figured I could get a nice set up at a pretty good discounted price. I'm not sure if I want to attempt to do the install myself or not because I've only installed decks in my vehicles, no amps, subs, or speakers. I figure it might be smart to let the pro's handle it so I don't fry the electrical system.
Any bad experience with JBL? From what I have heard their upper end stuff is supposed to be pretty good.
I like a lot of bass so I think I'd go with (2) 12's or one or two 15's. I've read nothing but good reviews about the GTi woofers so I think they would be a good bet. I'm not so sure about the speakers but I figure they must be pretty good as well. As far as the amps go...so the 1200.1 II for the subs and the 4-channel amp for the speakers?
I figure if I go this route I will save $500-$750 as it cost me $1900 for Focal Polyglass speakers, (2) 10" Access Focal subs in a custom box, and a JBL GTO 601.1 Class D amp for the subs, and to install the deck, Diamond Speakers for the rear, and 4 channel Orion amp I already had.
I don't know but maybe if Focal stuff is so much better its worth the extra money. Any thoughts? Should I just rock all the JBL stuff or try to get Focal stuff for a price increase? I just figured since the MSRP on the JBL speakers and subs are $700 that they must be pretty good and if I can get them for $247 that I was getting a sweet deal. Eh who knows sometimes you don't get what you pay for. Thanks again for the reply,
Chris
swez on 07/11/2006 19:53:13
Chris,
A singlr Gti sub is plenty strong for very good bass regarding your install. Using 2 subs will just make the install more expensive and less cargo space.
Also, many of us like JBL here and their amps are top notch as are their speakers and subs. However, we also need to think about power consumption of larger amplifiers and the electrical systems ability to provide enough current to power everything. The 1201.1 II is not a light weight amp and pulls close to 100 amperes of current at full power. Do you really need that much bass power... and are you willing to do major electrical upgrades to have it?
Comments?
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/11/2006 20:11:36
Swez,
Thanks for the reply. Would I really need to make major electrical upgrades for a single GTi 15" or 2 12"s? If thats the case then no dice because I'm sure that will get nice and expensive. Has anybody heard any of the GTi line stuff or am I making a stupid assumption expensive=good quality. Normally you get what you pay for but thats always to an extent. Also would the 1201.1 II be good for the amps and the 4-channel amp for the speakers a good combo? Assuming that the electrical system would hold up. Would I just need an Optima battery to be safe or a whole overhaul. You got me a little worried. Thanks again, Chris
swez on 07/13/2006 13:03:46
Chris,
A single 12" GTi sub (or even the 10" version) is plenty of bass and 600 RMS is more than adequate for concert level bass in your ride. If you went with a single 15" sub, the box it would need, is pretty large. (Especially a ported one) The JBL Grand Touring Series GTO601.1 II is plenty of power and draws less than 60 amperes at full power. (2 ohm load)
The GTi series subs are 6 + 6 DVC coils. Your lowest ohmic rating here, would be 3 ohms with both coils in parallel. With the GTO601.1 II, your RMS sub power will be be more like 400 watts RMS @ 3 ohms. Not bad at all... but this sub is rated for up to 700 watts RMS.
In a ported enclosure, this sub/amp combo will net + 120dB of bass power without straining. That my friend, is a lot of bass engine in this small vehicle. You'll have to either demo this combination at a shop that carries them or take my word on this one. Just remember, what you hear in a large showroom or demo wall, is not exactly how it will sound in your car. (A large room VS a smaller car) Big difference in acoustics here. Trust me, the differences can be substantial in certain vehicles.
If you have a drop down seat in the back, the sub performance will be astounding. If trunk mounted only, bass will still be very good, just not as full as a drop seat sedan or SUV will offer.
Thoughts, comments?
Swez
PS Once we get the bass engine side of your plan nailed down, then we can look at the mid/high aspects of this project. Yes, plan on amping the mid/highs too. Power mamagement is the main issue here, when working with dual amps and stock electricals. Do you know the amperage rating of the stock ALT in this vehicle?
BoondockSaint on 07/13/2006 20:19:26
Swez,
Thanks for the reply. Hmmm since you put it that way I think I would opt for a 12" GTi in a ported enclosure. If possible I would like to power it with the JBL 1201.1 II amp to give it enough power to make the most bass. I agree that the 15" enclosure would probably destroy any cargo room I had left. The alternator has an amperage of 140 and the battery is 80. The vehicle is a 5 door hatchback with fold down seats, so this should be pretty good for bass correct? Thanks again for your help, it has cleared up a lot of things for me. -Chris
swez on 07/13/2006 22:23:08
Good, this plan should work out as the 1201.1 II will net about 750 watts RMS @ 3 ohms. Current draw will be less at 3 ohms too.
The ALT should be strong enough for this amp and a solid 4 channel for mids/highs too. You may need a few minor wiring upgrades under the hood. We call it the "Big 3" upgrade:
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
This should do it and worst case, a high CCA BAT might be in order for beep sub hits. However, other than that, it should be a strong SQL system in all.
About speakers, consider the GTO series as they are more efficient with lower power needed to get them up to concert levels. That means a smaller amp and less current draw as well. These for example:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO607C?vq_id=none
http://www.cardomain.com/item/INFKAPPA607CS?vq_id=none
I've used these Infinity's in several installs and really like the tweeter used. It's not quite as smooth as silk dome tweeters, but not as harsh as some metal dome tweeters. It really depends on your taste in music and how bright the tweets need to be for your ears.
The GTi's are superb to be sure. But when weighing cost, efficiency, amp needs and the huge mounding depth needed, the GTO's or Infinity Kappa's make a lot more sense from many perspectives.
What say you?
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/13/2006 22:52:21
Thanks again Swez,
I think I am set then with the getting a 12" GTi in a ported box, unless you think going with a 12" Focal Access would be the better option, in my mind when I think of getting the GTi for $247 I think I'm getting a steal. But if they aren't the best quality I'd be willing to spend more...rather do it right and only once. For amps am set, the 1201.1 II and the JBLPX300 for the speakers. As far as speakers go, I really like the Focal polyglasses (I think I paid $250 for them) I had in my truck, but again it just seems like I'd be getting some high end speakers in the GTis (mspr $700) for $247. I just want to get the best sound quality I can for the money. Thanks again for all your help it is greatly appreciated.
- Chris
swez on 07/13/2006 23:40:11
The GTi sub is JBL's flagship line for car audio. Much of the technology used in this sub design was spawned by the Pro series subs we often see in live sound systems and upper end night clubs. I have used lots of JBL products before and they do deliver.
As for speakers in this project, price is not always the best indictor of what sounds best to the vehicle owner. We have a moving vehicle, road noise and other variables that make mobile audio a series of compromizes. For one, look at the limitations of where speakers can be installed and what size/format we have available.
Comps are the top choice for the "Audiophile" that demands accuracy, clean and realistic sound. Amping them accordingly and the install, have the larger share of what we hear in the end. (Not the price tag, brand name or specs.) I can see spending big money on a fixed Home Theater system components and such. But, in a car, we have many compromizes that cannot easily be altered or remedied.
Full range amp:
I just finished an install using the bigger brother to this amp:
http://www.cardomain.com/item/JBLGTO754II
We used the 6 channel version (2 channels for a sub) and I must say... I WAS IMPRESSED !!! So was the guy who owns it. We ran Infinity 5.25" Kappa Comps in the front and Infinity 6x9 Kappa's in the back. We just tested a basic 12" sealed for the sub function and it had all the power to rock his Acura Integra and then some.
Am not suggesting the 6 channel for your application. However, the 4 channel noted above has plenty of power at 4 ohms and even more when mated with 2 ohm Comps. Think it over... you'll save some money, about 20 amperes of less current draw and all the main features most audiophiles demand.
Comments?
Swez
PS The PX 300 will draw upward of 60A's at full power. The GTO 75.4 II will need under 40A's. Do you really need the extra power and current draw to get the desired results? There would be no audible difference between 124 watts RMS x 4 VS 104 watts RMS x 4. Just more expense and more current draw.
BoondockSaint on 07/14/2006 03:44:02
Swez,
So the PX300 is not an option because it draws too much power? Here are the other Amps that I can get at a discount:
JBL GTO75.4 II 4 channel amp $132
JBL GTO755.6 II 6 channel amp $176
I can also get the GTi comps in 5.25 for $222. If I could get sufficient power to the system I would like to get these to stay with JBLs top line stuff. Also is Infinity or JBL the upper brand from Harmon Kardon? If I had to I would be willing to get an Optima battery if necessary.
If I am being a stubborn ass let me know. Thanks again for all your help.
-Chris
swez on 07/14/2006 09:30:19
Stubborn? Not at all... am just pointing out some options that are both cost effective and high performance oriented, w/o sacrificing the quality audio you desire. The original plan you came in with is fine and just a few minor tweaks may be all that is needed.
In fact, it might be me who is pulling you off track here. If that is the case, say so and we'll get back to your needs as stated.
Harmon Intl is a family of companies:
Crown
Harmon Kardon
Harmon Becker
JBL
Infinity
Some of the prices you have noted must be wholesale or near cost. Great deals noted here. Am just showing some workable solutions that might be very power effective. Here's the thinking that goes behind some of the suggestions.
A typical vehicle needs about 50-60A's of current to operate all major electrical components. (Ie: Lights, Ign, A/C, ABS, ECM, BCM and other vehicle performance monitoring circuits) When we use other items like power windows, seats, wipers, defoggers and Aux lighting, the current draw goes up accordingly.
A stock electrical system can handle "all devices" used simultanously and still have a reserve capacity of 20-30%. When adding high power audio gear to the equation, we have to factor in these extra loads as well.
This is why I am bringing some new options into the original plan. Obviously, most of us don't use our audio systems at full power all the time and for long durations. (Some do though) However, when we do want to cut loose and have it all, we want to make sure that other key devices in the vehicle have adequate power. Make sense? That's the background info for why new options are being put on the table.
OK, back to the main plan. Yes, you can indeed use the PX 300 if you wish. Since pricing is not an issue, the only factors to consider here would be performance, power draw and matching amping power to the GTi Component needs. Same idea with the 1201.1 II and GTi sub kit.
Am not recommending the JBL GTO755.6 II 6 channel amp for your specific install as the sub channels may not give you a good match and adequate bass with the GTi sub mentioned. (A 3 ohm sub load may be tough on the sub channels when bridged or lack adequate power in 2 channel mode at 6 ohms per channel stereo)
Here, the 1201.1 II makes sense and yes, at full power, it will draw some heavy current numbers on long, sustained, bass notes. (60-70A's for that duration) Couple that with a less efficient Class A/B amp for mids/highs, we can see an additional load of 40-50A's. This is where a stout BAT come in handy. The BAT acts like a current buffer and when the ALT is pressed to it's full capacity, the BAT will make up the difference. See the connection here?
Based on these variables and facts about 12 volt systems, now you can make a well informed choice about what products to use and how they will affect your vehicles' electrical system. That's why I have mentioned some alternate options to consider.
Now, you can make educated decisions based on how they will alter your vehicles' electrical supply sources and factor in any upgrades that may be needed to support this new addition of toys.
Comments?
Swez
PS Does this vehicle have a Harmon/Becker Premium audio system in it now or just a stock Radio/CD player (Head Unit = HU) and speakers? Nice ride BTW...
BoondockSaint on 07/14/2006 15:00:58
Swez,
Thanks for all your help. So if I run the PX300 and the 1201.1 II with a 12" GTi sub ported and GTi comps with an optima battery I should be alright? Obviously I don't want to use up too much power and lose ABS. Yeah if anyone wants the discount work at UPS for a week and use the discount. Thanks again,
Chris
swez on 07/15/2006 12:52:50
Chris,
Most welcome there bud! Yes, just monitor your headlight dimming as this is a typical sign that the electrical system is being over-taxed by your new toys.
The larger CCA BAT will help and most guys who do the "Big 3" Upgrade" along with the rest, usually report that all devices are getting adequate power.
http://www.clubknowledge.com/cgi-bin/car_audio_faq/faq.cgi?g3481
Good luck with your system install!
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/15/2006 18:51:03
Thanks for all of your help Swez, I appreciate it.
swez on 07/15/2006 19:07:40
You bet Boon... keep us posted on your progress OK?
Swez
BoondockSaint on 07/15/2006 19:12:36
Will do, I'll keep you guys updated.
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