helo i have a question one of my friends is putting in a new system he has a stock electrical setup now except a litle stronger alternator 115 amps i think he is going to use an audiobahn a18001dt amplifier which rms at 1800 so he needs to do some electrical upgrades what do you all sudjest one of my first sudjestions was to put a battery of around 1000cca 2 gauge leads off of the alt better grounds what else should we do
Replies (9)
MrBrownstone on 07/7/2006 13:59:05
the main upgrades should be the wiring. upgrading the wires from:
1. the alternator to the battery.
2. Battery to the Body Ground
3. Battery to the amplifier (or distribution block)
Most batteries are fine if they are new, but if old, replace them with a strong battery ir probably wise.
Remember, the only source of electricity is the alternator, so as long as it's functioning correctly, it should be fine.
swez on 07/7/2006 17:35:23
"Remember, the only source of electricity is the alternator, so as long as it's functioning correctly,"
Actually, the ALT and BAT are the sources for electrical power in a vehicle. The BAT is designed for starting the car pimarily. After the engine is running, the ALT replenishes the BAT and powers the vehicle and almost all the electrical needs there after.
However, if the ALT has reached its full capacity for current and voltage needs and the system still demands more, then the BAT will supply additional current (amperes) as needed until the BAT is depleted. The BAT acts as a current storage device for limited periods of time, depending on the CCA rating and health of the BAT.
Swez
PS Mr. B. Good to see ya on CK again. Better go easy on the adult beverages after working hours eh? Have you forgotten your "shade tree mechanic" days? Last call for Al-Key-Hall.... GRIN
MrBrownstone on 07/7/2006 18:06:49
I took 5 days off for the World Series of Poker, and I'll probably not be available after this message for 3 to 5 days again.
If I win, probably not back for weeks.
I have a 4.5 to 5.5 hr drive. I'll give you a call if you are available.
raulbustos on 07/7/2006 19:02:07
okay well iv been wondering this for a while what is the deal with the capacitors because from what ive seen around here it seams like they arent worth a .... also ive herd that you can put in a second battery on the power wire that goes to the amp to help also but to me this seams like it would put a great drain on the alt well what you all think
swez on 07/8/2006 09:54:46
When using a 2nd BAT, it is wise to use a Batter Isolator charging system. This device polls the power levels in each BAT and allocates charging duties to the BAT that demands the most juice.
The Isolator uses very little power to do its job. However, the 2nd BAT will act like a new load on the ALT too. (10-20A's of charging current) That is something a low amperage stock ALT can usually handle.
Most vehicles need about 40-60 amps of current operate the main electrical components in a car. If your stock ALT is 105 - 115A's, that's enough reserve power for a decent full range amp. (40-60A max draw)
If you add a stong sub amp to this install, (60A's or more) then the dual BAT makes sense. Here, use a Gel Cell BAT, high CCA rated and large power wires to feed that BAT from the Isolator.
Swez
PS Caps are not a great solution for high powered amps and low powered electricals. They seem to work adequately for minor light dimming issues on deep sub hits. But this is basically a bandaid approach to a minor power spike issue. If you have chronic depletion from an inadequate power source, a H.O. ALT and/or a 2nd BAT are a better way to tame this beast.
raulbustos on 07/8/2006 13:03:07
would he be better off with a starting batery or with a deep cycle like a marine or what exactly is this gel cel and where can you find a n isolater
swez on 07/8/2006 19:01:29
Starter BAT for under the hood, Deep Cycle for the sub BAT. Gel Cells like the Optima Yellow Top and Tsunami are very nice. There are other Gel Cels out there too.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1628
Gel Cells do not have acid-based electrolytes. They do not leak and hydrogen gas emmissions are minimal in gel cells. They are safe to use in the trunk and orientation does not matter as this is a sealed unit.
Batter isolators are common in Marine and RV use. Here's a link to what they look like and how they are used:
http://www.emarineinc.com/products/alternators/isolators.html
A little shopping might get you a better price. You may have to order one from NAPA or any other good autoparts, RV or Marine electrical supply center.
Swez
raulbustos on 07/8/2006 20:35:58
would this work http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SR80-HIGH-CURRENT-RELAY-ISOLATOR-4-DUAL-BATTERY_W0QQitemZ130003938714QQihZ003QQcategoryZ14932QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
swez on 07/9/2006 07:51:23
Yes, this will work too. It's the relay/solinoid type version. These tend to use a bit more power as they work. In your buddies case, consider the SR 200 as it can handle more current and will last longer too.
http://stingerelectronics.com/tech_department/sr200_sr80%20diagram.pdf
Swez
Replies (9)
MrBrownstone on 07/7/2006 13:59:05
the main upgrades should be the wiring. upgrading the wires from:
1. the alternator to the battery.
2. Battery to the Body Ground
3. Battery to the amplifier (or distribution block)
Most batteries are fine if they are new, but if old, replace them with a strong battery ir probably wise.
Remember, the only source of electricity is the alternator, so as long as it's functioning correctly, it should be fine.
swez on 07/7/2006 17:35:23
"Remember, the only source of electricity is the alternator, so as long as it's functioning correctly,"
Actually, the ALT and BAT are the sources for electrical power in a vehicle. The BAT is designed for starting the car pimarily. After the engine is running, the ALT replenishes the BAT and powers the vehicle and almost all the electrical needs there after.
However, if the ALT has reached its full capacity for current and voltage needs and the system still demands more, then the BAT will supply additional current (amperes) as needed until the BAT is depleted. The BAT acts as a current storage device for limited periods of time, depending on the CCA rating and health of the BAT.
Swez
PS Mr. B. Good to see ya on CK again. Better go easy on the adult beverages after working hours eh? Have you forgotten your "shade tree mechanic" days? Last call for Al-Key-Hall.... GRIN
MrBrownstone on 07/7/2006 18:06:49
I took 5 days off for the World Series of Poker, and I'll probably not be available after this message for 3 to 5 days again.
If I win, probably not back for weeks.
I have a 4.5 to 5.5 hr drive. I'll give you a call if you are available.
raulbustos on 07/7/2006 19:02:07
okay well iv been wondering this for a while what is the deal with the capacitors because from what ive seen around here it seams like they arent worth a .... also ive herd that you can put in a second battery on the power wire that goes to the amp to help also but to me this seams like it would put a great drain on the alt well what you all think
swez on 07/8/2006 09:54:46
When using a 2nd BAT, it is wise to use a Batter Isolator charging system. This device polls the power levels in each BAT and allocates charging duties to the BAT that demands the most juice.
The Isolator uses very little power to do its job. However, the 2nd BAT will act like a new load on the ALT too. (10-20A's of charging current) That is something a low amperage stock ALT can usually handle.
Most vehicles need about 40-60 amps of current operate the main electrical components in a car. If your stock ALT is 105 - 115A's, that's enough reserve power for a decent full range amp. (40-60A max draw)
If you add a stong sub amp to this install, (60A's or more) then the dual BAT makes sense. Here, use a Gel Cell BAT, high CCA rated and large power wires to feed that BAT from the Isolator.
Swez
PS Caps are not a great solution for high powered amps and low powered electricals. They seem to work adequately for minor light dimming issues on deep sub hits. But this is basically a bandaid approach to a minor power spike issue. If you have chronic depletion from an inadequate power source, a H.O. ALT and/or a 2nd BAT are a better way to tame this beast.
raulbustos on 07/8/2006 13:03:07
would he be better off with a starting batery or with a deep cycle like a marine or what exactly is this gel cel and where can you find a n isolater
swez on 07/8/2006 19:01:29
Starter BAT for under the hood, Deep Cycle for the sub BAT. Gel Cells like the Optima Yellow Top and Tsunami are very nice. There are other Gel Cels out there too.
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=product.display&Product_ID=1628
Gel Cells do not have acid-based electrolytes. They do not leak and hydrogen gas emmissions are minimal in gel cells. They are safe to use in the trunk and orientation does not matter as this is a sealed unit.
Batter isolators are common in Marine and RV use. Here's a link to what they look like and how they are used:
http://www.emarineinc.com/products/alternators/isolators.html
A little shopping might get you a better price. You may have to order one from NAPA or any other good autoparts, RV or Marine electrical supply center.
Swez
raulbustos on 07/8/2006 20:35:58
would this work http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-SR80-HIGH-CURRENT-RELAY-ISOLATOR-4-DUAL-BATTERY_W0QQitemZ130003938714QQihZ003QQcategoryZ14932QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
swez on 07/9/2006 07:51:23
Yes, this will work too. It's the relay/solinoid type version. These tend to use a bit more power as they work. In your buddies case, consider the SR 200 as it can handle more current and will last longer too.
http://stingerelectronics.com/tech_department/sr200_sr80%20diagram.pdf
Swez
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